September 17, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
247 
piece of glass raised above the plant, so as to allow free access of air. 
A difficulty is often experienced in propagating it, but in heat it strikes 
readily at this season, when the cuttings have been thoroughly ripened. 
Others suitable for rockery, and which are also very desirable, are 
E. rosmarinifolium, E. sericeum, E. Fleischeri, E. alpinum, and E. gla- 
bellum, the latter being a fine plant for edging, having pretty marbled 
foliage.—M. S. 
[The woodcut represents a strong plant, but the shoots are usually 
more procumbent than is shown in the figure.] 
BEDELL’S TELEGRAPH CUCUMBER. 
In the “Notes on Vegetables,” page 205, your correspondent speaks very 
highly of Cardiff Castle Cucumber, and as I have two hotels to supply 
with this vegetable, also a private establishment, I wish to say a 
few worus in praise of Bedell’s Telegraph. This and the old Telegraph 
I have grown side by side fcr three years, so I think I have given it a fair 
trial both in houses and frames, and when a garden is worked on the 
market system the greatest care is needed in getting those varieties which 
will pay for the trouble and give employers satisfaction. This Cucumber 
only needs a fair trial to become a general favourite.—W. 
[Accompanying this note were two fine even fruits of the variety 
named, which appeared to well justify our correspondent’s commendation. 
They are much like the Telegraph, except, perhaps, the fruits are rather 
stouter with more bloom than is usually seen on this variety. Nearly 
every market gardener has a selection of his own that he has proved 
reliable, but some of the largest growers are now depending almost ex¬ 
clusively upon Cardiff Castle.] 
THE LATE DROUGHT. 
The weather during the past few months has proved a great drawback 
to gardeners where a plentiful supply of water was not at command. 
Although the hoe and rake have had an easy time, the plumbers will 
most likely find plenty of work next winter in repairing watercans, 
water-barrows, &e. During the present season, in many cases crops 
have suffered severely through an insufficient supply of water, which 
perhaps, if obtainable, had to be carted a long distance, so that it would 
be impossible to give all crops requiring it a sufficient supply. Every 
lady and gentleman possessing a garden, and especially those who are 
making, or are intending to make, new gardens, would do well to consider 
the present season in this respect. Money spent in the construction of 
tanks, laving in pipes, and having taps at intervals throughout the garden, 
would be well invested. In all cases it would not be possible to do as I 
have suggested, but in laying out new gardens this should rank among 
the first considerations in its construction. In the case of a short supply 
of water much could be done in retaining the moisture in the soil by 
giving a mulching of lawn mowings or manure (the latter cannot always 
be spared for that purpose), to such crops as Peas, Scarlet Runners, French 
Beans, Cauliflowers, &c., and then to give a thorough soaking of water; 
they will not suffer for some time. Some object to lawn mowings for 
mulching, as they say the seed of the grass is brought into the garden and 
cause a trouble afterwards, but where a lawn is kept in proper condition 
there will be no fear in this respect, but I would recommend litter from 
the stables, if it could be obtained, as a mulching. 
Now I come to another most important point to be observed as regards 
the water supply, and that is the rainfall. In places that I have visited, 
and others in which I have acted as gardener, I have noticed that pro¬ 
vision has not been made to economise the water that falls on the roofs of 
the houses. I have frequently seen water running into drains from the 
glass structures that would possibly have given a supply of soft water 
through a season like the present, and, moreover, prove more beneficial to 
plants and vegetables watered with it. I have pointed out this to gentle¬ 
men under whom I have served, and have asked to have good tanks built 
for the reception of soft water, but the expenses of the same appear to be 
the great drawback; at the same time, if this is studied, the proprietor 
would be the gainer in the long run. If tanks were built and cased with 
cement, and a pump attached to each, sufficient water would be obtained 
through the winter months to meet the supply required for a long time. 
Where tanks are constructed in the garden it is advisable that these 
should be filled every evening (and this would not be a difficult task where 
a tap is attached), as the action of the air would greatly soften the water 
and bring it to nearly the same temperature as that of the ground.— 
Robt. D. Long. 
LILIUM CANDIDUM. 
Any bulbs of this useful Lily required for potting should be seen 
to at once, as there is no better time for doing tins than immediately after 
the flower stems show signs of decay. The roots have, however, had 
so] little to encourage them that they are much later than usual in 
starting into growth, which is only now commencing. It is now well 
recognised by many that this is the best time for potting. Three bulbs 
according to their size may be placed in 6 or 7-inch pots, using a compost of 
fairly rich loam. These pots will be sufficiently large the first season, after 
which the plants may be shifted into larger pots as they may seem to require. 
If potted at once the majority of the young roots may be secured, and as 
these fill the pots they may be introduced into the greenhouse, and from 
this to a warmer structure if early blooms are required. It is not easy to 
over-estimate the value of this, one of the most useful of all Lilies, and 
which is one of the oldest inhabitants of the herbaceous border.—J. 
INSECTS AND CANKER ON FRUIT TREES. 
Youn correspondent Mr. Hiam must indeed be satisfied with the experi' 
ments he has made to decide so clearly, in his own opinion, that insects* 
and insects alone, are the cause of canker in fruit trees. I have had fo r 
some years to battle with canker on gravelly subsoil, and having suc¬ 
ceeded in bringing the trees, both Apples and Pears, into sound and 
healthy condition, I must express a slightly different opinion from Mr. 
Hiam, as both treatments appear to have resulted the same. 
I am of opinion that, like many other instances of insect attack on 
plants and trees, they suffer chiefly in consequence of debility through 
deficient root-action. Our trees, now shining with health and burdened with 
fruit, have had no attention paid to the wood, with the exception of very 
careful pruning. What has been done is to carefully transplant each, 
having them removed from the home kitchen garden outside the walls, 
although well sheltered. Holes were made about 5 feet in diameter and 
10 to 12 inches deep, and in planting great pains was taken to preserve 
uninjured every root, pruning the ends with a very sharp knife, and 
every rather strong root was notched at some 6 inches or so. Too 
much importance cannot be attached to using a very well sharpened knife, 
for the ends of these roots produce an abundance of new and healthy 
roots the first season. It is my rule to have two or three good knives at 
hand and kept sharpened in turn as needed by most reliable hands, as 
only such are to be trusted with the work. Soil is the next important 
matter. A couple of barrowloads of turfy sods are placed grass side 
downwards quite level, next a barrowful of well-decayed manure, then 
one of loose compost. The tree is then firmly seated, and this latter 
point of firmness is of the utmost importance, stretching out every root 
which is sound. In planting we use old Cucumber or Melon beds, and the 
roots speedily take hold of this ; then fill in with the best of that thrown 
out, fresh soil, bones, manure, lime rubbish, or what may be at 
disposal, not treading too firmly. We then put on a good covering of 
half-decayed manure, or, better still, spent bark, and stake securely from 
three points. Nothing further is needed, except an annual dressing with 
manure or other good compost over the roots. Marl is very good in 
helping to make a firm surface, which is never disturbed. Planting is 
done in October. 
I may here give a hint upon an old practice of great value to fruit trees, 
or almost any trees—namely, that of giving liquid manure during winter. 
Nothing, we find, assists more than this, and we are preparing to extend, 
the practice. Perhaps our good friend Mr. “ Thinker” is busy with some 
scheme of this kind, but I am sorry to notice we have had none of his 
humorous and instructive paragraphs of late.—LATHYRUS. 
HYDRANGEAS. 
It would be difficult to name any hardy flowering shrubs more 
suitable for growing in pots for the many forms of decoration for which 
flowering plants are required than these plants. They are comparatively 
easy to grow, and amateurs with a frame or a few handlights and a green¬ 
house may grow them to the same excellence as the professional gardener 
with more glass structures and greater accommodation. The latter, by a 
judicious system of treatment and forcing, can produce them in succession 
over a period of several months, but with the former this can only be 
accomplished in a very small degree, and the amateur can succeed in 
bringing two or three batches into flower at different times so as to form 
a succession. 
In order to grow these plants well in small pots it is necessary to have 
a few good plants of two or three varieties placed out in fertile garden 
soil in an open sunny position. This is the best system for the amateur, 
while those who want to force the plants into flower early in the season 
should keep a few stock plants in pots. Those should have the protection 
of a cold frame until the weather is sufficiently genial to turn them outside 
without injury to the foliage made ; in fact, prior to turning them out 
they must be carefully hardened so that they are not checked in their 
growth. Those grown in pots will yield cuttings in suitable condition 
for striking before those are sufficiently ripe on plants growing outside, 
which can be rooted a few weeks later, and thus form capital successions 
to those taken from plants in pots. 
Cuttings from plants that have been grown in pots should be taken 
without farther delay, for growth has ceased and flower buds are formed. 
If left too long the shoots become woody and too hard to strike freely, in 
fact they are a long time striking in that condition, and many may fail to 
form roots ; but when taken as soon as growth ceases and the formation 
of the flower buds has commenced, the wood is moderately soft and will 
root quickly and freely. The cuttings should be 2 or 3 inches in length, 
and cut clean below a pair of leaves with a sharp knife. The two lower 
leaves need not be removed, but inserted with the cutting into the soil. 
The cuttings strike root equally as well without the leaves as when 
retained, but they assist in the development of the flower bud already 
formed. They should be inserted into 2-inch pots in a compost of good 
loam and a little sand ; a little of the latter should be used for the base 
of the cuttings to rest upon. After insertion a good watering should be 
given, and the cuttings placed under handlights where a temperature of 
60° to 70° is maintained. The handlights should be made air-tight and 
kept perfectly close and shaded from the sun until the cuttings are rooted* 
