258 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ September 17, 1885. 
and full ; Arethusa, rose, shaded purple, full, vigorous and fragrant ; 
Athlete, lilac and white, a fine double flower ; Triomphe de Gand, bright 
pink, shaded with salmon re 1, large and full; Rosea odorata, beautiful 
rose, large and fragrant; Lilacina plenissima, soft lilac, very fine ; Jewel 
of Chusan, grand flower, globular in form, of snowy and transparent 
whiteness—this is an acquisition to this valuable group of plants ; Grandi- 
flora gigantea, cherry, very large and full; Ida, milk white, a very 
distinct and pleasing kind ; Van Houttei, deep carmine rose, and brighter 
centre, edged white, fine. To these may be added a great many more, 
but I think they will be sufficient to prove that great diversity of colour 
has long existed in this truly magnificent genus, of which it may be 
remarked there is but one species. It is also worthy of note that while 
the Chinese varieties are all, or nearly all, double, the Japanese are 
mostly single, or at the most in some cases semi-double. 
No traveller, probably, has done so much to popularise these plants 
as the late Robert Fortune, to whom we are indebted for the majority 
of the original kinds introduced from China. While penning these 
notes I feel how inadequate is our conception of the grandeur and bold 
characteristic beauty of these shrubs, for what have we till the Rhodo¬ 
dendrons commence flowering that can in any degree compare with 
these for a brilliant and striking effect? and to see them several feet 
high, with 200 or 300 giant heads of flowers would be something new to 
not a few of us in these modern times. While having fully realised 
the diversified beauty of a few blooms on a plant of many of the culti¬ 
vated forms, I am the more desirous of yet meeting them in specimen 
form. Here I would ask the reader to imagine that noble variety to 
which I have previously alluded, Gloria belgarum, which is said to have 
blooms over a foot across. Imagine such a one to have attained a 
height of 4 feet or 5 feet, and a circumference of 30 feet, having 200 blooms 
upon it, what a gorgeous picture would be presented 1 and though 
imaginary in the case of this one at present, it is by no means impos¬ 
sible for such things to be realised in English gardens, the only thing 
being a question of time after once fairly established. Speaking of 
fine specimens reminds me of a very fine one in a riverside garden at 
Cookham, under shade of the Cliveden Woods, which is about 10 feet in 
diameter, and was a grand sight when in flower last spring. 
But now a few words as to their propagation, which may be accom¬ 
plished in several ways—by division, by layers, by cutiings, by grafting, 
and from seed. The two last-named are the best, and the latter the 
only way in which new kinds may be raised. To be able to practise the 
first method— i.e., division, the original plants would have to be of fair 
size ; and though it may be done, I do not recommend its adoption gene¬ 
rally, since for these plants I am a strong advocate of the let-alone 
system. The second means of increasing them—by layers, may be per¬ 
formed about October, or even earlier, much in the same way as the 
layering of all deciduous shrubs is performed in autumn, which is so 
well known as to need no further comment. The next means which may 
be employed to increase the stock of these plants is from cuttings. Tbese 
are best from single eyes, and if taken in the early part of January while 
the buds are yet dormant, and inserted after the manner of Vine eyes, 
and placed in slight warmth, a good per-centage of them will form roots. 
—E. J. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Globe Artichokes .—These are over now, but they have been extra 
plentiful and good this season. Some do not care for them, others are 
very fond of them, and where many changes of vegetables are desired a 
good number of them should be grown. They need not have the best 
position in the garden, as they will do very well almost anywhere, pro¬ 
vided the soil is deep and moderately rich. Many are in the habit of 
planting them in spring, but they may be very successfully transplanted 
now. We prefer autumn to spring planting, as the plants will be partially 
established before winter, and grow very freely next spring. Where 
the plants are very close together every other one should be taken and 
planted elsewhere. The strongest suckers which are pushing up from the 
sides of the plants are good for new plantations. They should be taken 
ofi with a root and planted carefully rather deep and 3 feet apart each 
way. Before frost comes all that have been transplanted now must be 
mulched well round the neck. Where planting is not necessary cut all 
the old fruit stems off down to the level of the ground, clean the surface 
between, and allow the young growths to develope freely. 
Harvesting Onions. —Spring-sown Onions are a most satisfactory crop 
this season. Failuie from any cause is quite the exception, and the grub 
which plays such havoc some years has been comparatively harmless this 
time. The. plants were somewhat late in forming bulbs, but of late they 
have fully made up for lost time, and the crop is now a good one, indeed 
above the average, and it only remains to harvest it properly to make a 
constant supply of good Onions quite sure throughout the winter. The 
whole of the bulbs should be drawn up and laid down on their sides for a 
few days on the ground from which they were pulled. They should after¬ 
wards be spread out on a dry pathway for about ten days, and then they 
may be taken under cover and stored permanently. Should the weather 
be wet and unsuitable for drying them in the open they must be put under 
cover, an open shed or similar place being good for the purpose. They need 
not be cleaned before being dried, but before storing all the loose skin, 
superfluous top-growths, and very long roots must be rubbed or pulled off 
by the hands. The largest may be placed by themselves to be used first, 
and the smallest be kept to the last, as bulbs about the size of a hen’s egg 
keep much longer than any 1 foot or more in circumference. While 
drying they should never be more than one layer deep, but when stored 
they may be heaped on the top of each other, as if they are dry no harm 
will result from this. 
Earthing-vp Celery .—Much of this useful vegetable will soon be 
required in the kitchen. Earthing-up should have early and careful 
attention. Those who do not approve of earthing-up as growth goes on, 
but do not touch it until growth has been completed, must earth up now 
if it is desired to have it well blanched and tender when used. Take 
all the short outside leaves ofi. Tie those remaining firmly up near the 
top with a piece of old matting, break the soil on the edges of the trenches 
down fine, and work it in between the plants. The rough part may be put 
in between with the spade, but the hands should be used to press it round 
the stems, and on no account should the earth be allowed to drop into 
the centre or amongst the leaves, but the matting helps greatly to prevent 
this, and when earthing is finished it can be taken ofi. Early plants 
which have been earthed-up once or twice may be finally attended to, and 
plants which have run to flower prematurely should not be thrown away, 
as the leaves of them may be used in the kitchen in the place of the best 
produce. 
Leeks .—The greater amount of white stem these have the better, in¬ 
deed they cannot have too much, and to have them in the finest possible 
condition they should be well earthed up, the soil being placed close 
around the stems as often as it can be conveniently done without covering 
too much of the leaves. 
Peas.—August and September crops have been fairly good, but we 
have seen them better. Now the pods are not filling rapidly, and we 
have almost seen the last of this much-valued crop for another year. 
Birds must be prevented from spoiling the full pods, and where rain has 
not fallen freely lately water heavily with guano water if possible, as 
this is more heating and stimulating than farmyard manure at this season. 
Sutton’s Latest of All and Laxton’s Omega have again done exceedingly 
well as late sorts. 
Beans .—The Broad varieties are now finished. They are not at any 
time very choice, but they make a good change, and early in the spring 
they are delicate and acceptable. Any ripe pods on good sorts should be 
gathered and preserved for seed, and clear all the old plants away. They 
take much nutriment out of the soil, and any ground they have been on 
must be manured before another crop goes in. Runner Beans have been 
grand, especially those rows which were mulched before the dry weather 
Bet in. The small pods will swell yet for some time to come, but late 
ones in blossom will not prove very useful. Where tender pods are very 
abundant they ought to be gathered and salted for the winter. Our cook 
does some bushels every autumn about this time, and they are much valued 
in winter. The pickling process is very simple. Thqy are mostly 
placed in stone jars with wide mouths. A layer of pods is put at the 
bottom, a little salt is then shaken over them, another layer is put in, and 
more salt over them, and so on until the jar is full, when a piece of cloth 
is tied over the mouth, and they are placed anywhere about the larder or 
scullery until wanted. Of course when taken out they are salt, but 
after being steeped in water for a time and boiled they are generally 
pronounced uncommonly good. Pods which have become too old for 
use on any row should be gathered at once if they are not required for 
seed, as they will hinder the young recently formed ones from coming 
forward. Where Kidney Beans must be supplied all the winter make 
sowings of Osborn's Dwarf Forcing in any vacant pit where a little heat 
can be turned on if wanted, and sow a quantity of seed in 3-inch pots to 
secure a batch of plants for fruiting in pots in November. 
Badishcs .—The China Rose is the best of all sorts for winter. A 
year or two ago we sowed it about the end of August, and by the end 
of November the roots were 5 inches and 6 inches round, being too 
large and too early ; but if sown now they will be right, as three weeks 
or so makes a vast difference in the sowing of any vegetable at this 
season. Put them in rows 1 foot apart, bow thinly, and give them a 
sunny position. They will keep up a supply from November until 
April. 
Mustard and Cress. — For a considerable time these have been 
easily secured, seed scattered on the surface of the soil anywhere pro- 
ducinr a crop; tut this will not do now, and indoor culture must be 
resorted to. A great heat is not wanted. They will do in a frame or 
under a handlight for a time, and if the seed is sown in very shallow 
boxes or trays, with a little soil underneath, they can be transferred to 
any temperature as the state of the weather and the demand dictates. 
This is a good way of keeping up a supply throughout the winter in all 
gardens. 
Autumn-sonn Cabbages .—This is the most important of all autumn 
crops, and cannot be too well attended. No attempt should be made to 
allow all the young plants to remain in the seed bed until the whole 
of them are ready for planting, but as some will become large and 
ready for planting much sooner than others, these ought to be drawn 
up and planted at once, and more rows can be put in now and again 
as the plants are ready. Ground from which we have cleared the spring 
Onions has long been a favourite position for autumn Cabbage. Th e T 
are planted without digging or manuring, and always grow robust and 
fruitful. The ground is hoed and cleaned before planting, and the 
