September 17, 1885. <] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
259 
large sorts are put in 18 inches apart each way, and the small-growing 
sorts 1 foot or 15 inches. Examine recently stored Potatoes, removing 
any that are decaying. Keep Asparagus stems tied firmly up to the 
last. Hoe between the young autumn-sown Onions, Spinach, Turnips, &c. 
Do not allow weeds to make headway. Earth up late greens, and give 
all winter crops the fullest attention. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Earliest-forced, Vines .—To have Grapes ripe by the close of 
April and the beginning of May the Vines should now be pruned and 
dressed at the earliest convenience, and prepared for closing the house in 
November. If the houses have been kept tree from red spider and other 
insects a good washing with warm soapy water will be sufficient, in 
addition to any limewashing of walls, &c., as many healthy Vines are 
ruined by the barbarous practice of scraping, scrubbing, &c., when there 
is no necessity for it. When, however, the Vines have been infested with 
red spider, scale, or mealy bug strong measures should be adopted. The 
best winter dressing is petroleum, a wineglassful to three gallons of 
water, syringing the Vines so as to thoroughly wet them in every part. 
The whole of the house should he treated in this manner, and repeated 
when it has dried. The syringing should be again performed when the 
house is closed for forcing. The proper and most effectual time to deal 
with the enemy is through the spring and summer, especially in the case 
of mealy bug, when every insect that has escaped the winter dressing 
should be destroyed by the application of methylated spirits. Take 
advantage of fine weather to have all outside borders put in order by 
thoroughly clearing them of all old mulching material, and insert surface 
soil down to the top-dressing with new compost, consisting of rough turfy 
loam, charred refuse, and bone dust thoroughly mixed and used in a dry 
state. Beat it down firmly with the back of a steel fork, and cover up 
with 3 or 4 inches of fresh stable litter for the present. The borders 
should have the full benefit of all the rain that falls up to the end of 
October, the covering being increased in time to protect from frost 
and snow. 
Late Houses .—Although such varieties as Lady Downe’s, Gros 
Colman, &c., are sufficiently ripe for exhibition purposes, they will need 
to remain on the Vines a considerable time before they are fit for removal 
to the Grape-room, at least a long time to bring them into the best 
possible condition for dessert. Up to the end of the present month a 
good quantity of foliage is desirable on account of the colouring process ; 
but as the days are shortening and the nights are getting cold, all lateral 
growths should be removed to admit of a free circulation of air through 
the bunches and main leaves, which must be kept clear of the glass. 
Where there is a house of Black Hamburghs ready for cutting the supply 
will be kept up until the Alicantes, &c., come in in November onward, 
leading to Lady Downe’s, which is the best for keeping up to May. To 
have Gros Colman in perfection it should not be cut until the Vines are 
quite leafless, then being bottled and kept in the Grape-room for at least 
a month, sufficiently dry to prevent the stalks damping, and then its 
flavour is so much improved that it may be ranked amongst the finest 
Grapes for use from January to March, its earthy flavour disappearing 
with keeping. 
Cucumbebs. — Maintain a genial temperature in this department, 
and ventilate freely during favourable weather, which will cause the 
plants, other points being attended to, to make a short-jointed and solidi¬ 
fied growth, which is the foundation of a good supply of fruit, success 
being dependent upon healthy development. Close the houses early in 
the afternoon, or from two to half-past two o’clock, being guided by the 
weather and the aspect of the house, damping the walls, paths, and bed 
at the Bame time. Add some fresh soil to the sides of the hillocks or 
ridges of the plants recently transferred to their fruiting quarters, and of 
the same description as that, in which the plants are growing, continuing 
to do this as the roots push through the soil, which produces a decided 
improvement in the plants. As plan’s have now reached the third and 
fourth wire and have been stopped, the laterals result'ng will need to 
be trained regularly over the trellis, and all fruit showing should be re¬ 
moved at once, provided a supply of fruit can be obtain from other 
sources. 
Plants in full bearing will now be considerably improved by receiving 
a top-dressing of three parts light loam and one part well-decomposed 
manure ; after which, if dry at the roots, they should be watered with 
tepid and clear water, it not being advi-rble to apply liquid manure until 
fresh roots are formed and pushing well into the new soil. A temperature 
of from 70° to 80° during the day must be maintained, and 85° with sun, 
closing early so as to raise the temperature to 90°, the night temperature 
being kept at 65° to 70°. Ventilate freely on all favourable occasions, 
and syringe twice a day in bright weather. Let the stopping, thinning, 
and tying be duly attended to, an i keep the foliage sufficiently thin to 
allow of light having free access to the principal parts, overcrowding 
and overcropping being the greatest evils in fruit, and especially Cucumber 
cultivation. 
Plants growing in frames will require to have the linings attended to 
weekly or fortnightly, as may be necessitated by the state of the weather 
and the condition of the fermenting materials at the time work is done. 
When the plants in these structures require water at the roots let it be 
given in the early part of a sunny day, so that the foliage may become 
dry before sunset, and keep a guard against damp by ventilating in the 
early part of the day. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Oesneras. —If these are not already in their largest pots they should be 
placed in them without delay. For most purposes of decoration these 
plants are best grown in 5 and 6-inch pots. The pots should be liberally 
drained, and the plants grown in a compost of loam and leaf soil in about 
equal proportions, with about one-seventh of manure added and a liberal 
quantity of coarse sand. After potting the house in which they are grown 
should be kept close and the plants lightly shaded from bright sunshine 
until they are rooting again freely in the fresh soil. The atmosphere and 
stage upon which they are standing should al-o be kept moist, but care 
must be taken not to allow water to fall upon their beautiful foliage, or 
it will be brown and injured. These plants undoubtedly do best if 
stood where a little heat can be maintained beneath them, and where 
cocoa-nut fibre refuse orj other moisture-holding material is employed. 
They must, however, be arranged close to the glass even if the first- 
mentioned position cannot be accorded them. They will be found to suc¬ 
ceed very satisfactorily on a shelf if due attention is paid to the supply 
of moisture. Care must be taken in giving water until they have filled 
their pots with roots, when a plentiful supply should be given, and 
occasionally soot water in a clear state. Bright sun only should be 
shaded from them, every ray of light possible being necessary to insure a 
sturdy, dwari, compact growth. 
Gloxinias .—These are very useful in autumn both for decoration and 
supplying cut flowers until nearly the close of the year. Healthy late 
seedlings in small pots will prove to be very useful if transferred at once 
into 4 and 5-inch pots in a compost of loam, one-third leaf soil, a little 
decayed manure, and sand. They will be found to do best on a shelf 
close to the glass, where a night temperature of about 60° to 65° can be 
maintained. These plants will soon grow freely and gain strength in the 
temperature indicated, and in due time produce a good quantity of flowers. 
All plants that have ceased flowering should be gradually kept dry at 
their roots in order to mature and ripen their roots for another year. This 
must be done gradually, or they will decrease in size and strength. Plants 
that flowered very early in the season and have enjoyed a long period of 
rest in a cool place may have the old soil shaken from them and placed 
in boxes of leaf mould. In a moist temperature of about 65° signs of 
growth will soon be visible, and when the shoots have extended a few 
inches they may be potted singly into as small pots as possible. Theso 
plants are so easily grown that with care and judgment their useful 
flowers may be had the whole year round. Gloxinias are well worth grow¬ 
ing through the winter, although it is not possible to produce them in 
such excellent condition as is the case during the spring, summer, and 
autumn months. 
Caladiums .— Although these fine-foliage plants are not grown so 
largely as formerly, they, nevertheless, find a place where a great variety 
of plants are required for furnishing purposes. Annually many of the 
tubers are lost principally through the careless manner in which they are 
treated after their foliage naturally commences to fade. They must not 
be pushed on one side and left to themselves directly their term of 
service for decoration has been completed. They must be watered and 
tended with the same care afterwards as when growing, until their foliage 
naturally dies. This must be accomplished by slightly drier conditions 
both about the roots and in the atmosphere in which they are placed, 
until water can be entirely withheld from them. They should during 
the process of ripening enjoy full light, and no lower temperature than 
60°, under whi h conditions they will thoroughly mature their tubers and 
pass the winter in safety. After the whole of the foliage has been ripened, 
if the soil about the roots is kept perfectly dry they will rest safely in a 
temperature 5° or 10° lower. 
Urceolina pendula .—Under careful treatment this old favourite can 
be had in flower in succession for at least six months out of the twelve, 
and this during the most dreary months of the year when indoor flowers 
are not too plentiful. Plants that made their growth early in the season 
under the influence of light and heat will have been thoroughly ripened and 
resting under cool conditions for some time. These, if stood in a warm 
house for a few days, then given a little water, will soon show signs of 
activity, and their umbels of drooping yellow and green fl iwers will soon 
appear. By a judicious system of growing batches of plants at different 
seasnna, resting and starting them successionally in heat, there is no diffi¬ 
culty in having plants constantly in flower over the period indicated. 
After flowering the bulbs should be repotted in sandy loam, a little 
manure, and sand. A little leaf mould is also beneficial, as it encourages 
a free and quick development of the foliage. Water should be applied 
carefully alter potting until the plants are growing and rooiing freely. 
Winter-floivering Plants. — Such plants as Poinsettias, Euphorbias, 
Begonias, and others growing in cold frames must be watered at their 
roots with great care after this date, or the latter will probably 
perish. Shading must be dispensed with, and every ray of light admitted 
to harden and ripen their wood, for upon this depends whether they flower 
well or the rever e. The frame must now be closed at night, and air 
admitted during the day with greater care than has been necessary up to 
the present time. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Propagating Pansies and Violas .—-The past summer has been much 
too hot to suit taese, and in many gardens where the Violas are largely 
bedded out they have failed conspicuously. They require a rather rich 
soil and plenty of moisture, and then they are surpri.-ingly effective. 
Since good soaking rains have fallen they have commenced to grow freely, 
especially from the main stem, and the soft flowerless sho >t< are the best 
to make into cuttings. Failing these the tops of the old flowering shoots 
may be put in, and these will eventually form bushy useful plants. No 
bottom heat is required, and all that is necessary is to form a firm shallow 
bed of half-decayed leaves inside a frame, on this disposing about 4 inches 
