318 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
[ Ootober 15. 188S. 
under cover a little while ago should be cleaned and stored in their 
winter quarters. When being dried place them in a single layer, but 
when stored they may be put on each other until a large heap ha9 been 
formed. 
Salsafy and Parsnips may be left in the ground and lifted as required. 
White Turnips are the most tender, and those which are of a good size 
may be lifted and stored. They keep longer in this way than if left in the 
ground. Swedish Turnips and yellow varieties are much hardier, and 
need not be lifted until the weather becomes severe. 
Tomatoes. —Gather all the green fruit of a useable size before it is 
touched with frost, and hang it up in a dry glass house or room to ripen. 
Keep recently rooted cuttings in a cool house near the glass, and do not 
attempt to pot them this autumn. Dwarf compact plants are very de¬ 
sirable, and can only be grown in a cool house near the light. 
Cabbage. —Keep on all old plants which are producing a quantity of 
sprouts. These stand the winter wel', and after they have had a little 
frost become as tender as the most delicate spring Cabbage. Plants 
which have been out in their bearing quarters for a few weeks may have 
a little soil drawn to their stems to keep them firm. Plant out more of 
the largest plants from the seed beds, and see that the slugs do not destroy 
them. 
Parsley. —Provision should exist for a daily supply of this. Where 
it has grown very luxuriantly, and has now many large leaves which are 
beginning to wither, take these off and only allow the fresh green ones to 
remain. We never lift any Parsley to put in frames for winter, but when 
necessary we put hoops over the beds and throw mats over these. It is 
not very easily injured, and does better without any pampering. Kidney 
Bean and other seeds should be collected every other day at this season, as 
the damp soon injures the pods. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Cyclamens .—If these are wanted in flower early, and the plants are 
now in a backward condition, the strongest and most forward should be 
selected and placed upon a shelf near to the glass. A close atmosphere 
must be avoided, or the flower stems as well as the foliage will draw up 
weakly. Arrange them in some light structure where the temperature at 
night can be kept from 55° to 60°, with a rise of from 5° to 10° from sun 
heat by day. Ventilate whenever the weather is favourable, and if very 
mild the ventilators may be open a little all night. If these conditions 
are carefully carried out the plants will soon commence throwing up their 
flower stems. If the plants are in small pots, which is generally the case 
when required for decoration, weak stimulants may be given every time 
water is required. L ; quid made from cow manure and soot water is 
invaluable for these plants. All later batches may occupy cold frames 
for some time yet, or a light airy place in the greenhouse or any structure 
that can be freely ventilated and kept cool. 
Double Primulas .—These must not remain in cold frames any longer, 
especially in low damp localities. They require a little more heat during 
the winter months than the single forms, and are best on a shelf close to 
the glass, where the atmosphere can be kept moderately dry and the night 
temperature 50° to 55°. With careful watering in such a position they 
will yield abundance of flowers. Weak stimulant} are required after the 
plants have been flowering for some time, and we have found nothing 
better than clear soot water and an occasional application of artificial 
manure to the surface. 
Single Primulas .—In placing these from the frames in which they 
have been grown to shelves in cool houses the plants should be sorted. 
This saves considerable trouble afterwards in the removal of the flowers 
from those that are not wanted for some time, and in drafting the 
strongest plants to the house in which they are brought into bloom. The 
earliest plants will soon push up their flowers in a light airy house, where 
a little heat is turned on at night and during dull damp days. The 
plants will be found invaluable for associating with Cyclamens, Roman 
Hyacinths, Z mal Pelargoniums, and other flowering plants next month. 
Plants in 3-inch pots are very serviceable, and some of the smallest are 
retained for flowering in that size. Plants for flowering after the middle 
of April should now be placed into 3 or 4-inch pots. 
Calceolarias .—Frame room now being more abundant, these can b 
given a lighter and better position than they have been occupying up to 
tbe present time. The largest plants can be transferred at once into 
5-inch pots, while the smaller ones can be potted if they need it. 
Those still growing in pans may be placed singly into small pots. At 
this season of the year small shifts only should be given, and the plants 
will be found to do much better than if large shifts are given to save the 
trouble of potting. These plants do well in a mixture of rich loam, one- 
third leaf soil, one-seventh of cow manure, and a liberal dash of coarse 
sand. 
Cinerarias .—The earliest plants ought to be well advanced, and if 
placed from the frames into a light house they will come into flower early 
and prove mo9t acceptable, They must be kept perfectly free from 
insects by slight fumigations with tobacco occasionally. Clear soot water 
should be given them every time they need water at their roots. Later 
plants that are in their largest pots can now be given more room in order 
that they can develope a good leaf growth without becoming crowded. 
The successional plants may be placed without delay into 5 and 6-inch 
pots, while those for late flowering that are still in pans should be placed 
at once into small pots. The smallest of these plants may be returned 
to the pans and potted s : ngly in the space of a few weeks when they are 
ready. These will do very well for some time in frames. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Damage by Frosts .—The early and rather severe frosts experienced 
early in the week commencing September 27th was rather unexpected, 
and will have caused much damage to numerous plants that had not been 
protected. Echeverii metallica, E. metallica glauca, Pachyphiton 
bracteosum, Sempervivum tabul® c orme, and a few other tender plants 
are very badly damaged, and in all probability many will have lost their 
entire stock. In some case 0 , if they are potted at once, have all decay¬ 
ing leaves removed and be placed in a rather dry heat, the stems of the 
plants may push out a few shoots suitable for making into cuttings in the 
spring. Any other damaged plants, such as Heliotropes, Iresines, Tropeo- 
lums, Ageratums, and Alternantheras that it may be found necessary to 
take up, should have the frosted portions cut away, be given rather smalt 
pots, and placed in a rather dry heat, such as the shelves of a forcing 
house, and this may save a good many of them. If stood in a cold damp 
pit or frame the majority of them will rapidly damp off. In some 
gardens only a few of the beds are badly disfigured, and these, especially 
where the garden is in a prominent position, ought to have been cleared 
off and temporarily filled with either neat branches of variegated Hollies, 
Ivie 0 , Box, and other hardy trees or hardy plants from the spare borders. 
For instance, quite a showy bed could be formed with Golden Pyrethrnm 
next the edge, inside of this a band of dark Beetroot from the kitchen 
garden, and a centre of strong plants of Cineraria maritima, Centaureas, 
or pieces of variegated Holly. All Tuberous Begonias, where the posi¬ 
tion of the garden is low, and therefore liable to be more damaged by 
early frosts, are very badly cut up, and the sudden check may injuriously 
affect the bulbs’ keeping properties. If lifted at once the soil should not 
be very closely cleared from tbe roots and as much of the uninjured tops 
be preserved as possible. They should be closely packed in shallow boxes 
and rather moist soil, and be stood in a frame or cool house and allowed to 
ripen gradually. Late Gladioli are also much injured, and these will not 
therefore perfect such good corms as usual. It is not advisable to disturb 
them yet, but those that are matured may be lifted, partially dried, and 
packed away in boxes of sand. Even the Chrysanthemums that were not 
yet showing colour are much injured, and in some eases ruined, but those 
that are yet in a promising state may well bs lifted with a good ball of 
earth and roots, and be planted against a wall or in some other position 
where they may be protected with mats when necessary. The early- 
flowering Chrysanthemums are also much injured, and on the whole the 
beds and borders in many places are in a worse plight than they were last 
year at the end of October. 
Roses from Cuttings .—During October and early in November is the 
best time for inserting Rose cuttings made from strong well-ripened 
growths. Those inserted last season struck remarkably wel), owing 
principally to the well-ripened state of the wood and the immunity from 
severe frosts during tbe winter. It i9 the simplest method of increasing 
the stock of dwarf Roses on their own roots, and which succeed very 
frequently so much better than do those on the Manetli and Briar 
stocks. Those Roses with few or no thorns, such as John Hopper and 
Countess of Oxford, are the most certain to strike, but we have also 
been successful with nearly every sort we have tried. The long firm 
growths shoald be selected, rejecting the unripe portion of these, and 
cutting the remainder into lengths of from 10 to 12 inches. Each should 
be cleanly cut to a joint and have the lower half of the buds trimmed off. 
They should not be allowed to lay about several hours, this resulting 
in the loss of much of the moisture they contain and ending fatally, but 
they should be inserted in the ground as fast as they are made. An open 
spot should be selected for them, the soil being well worked, and will be 
all the better for an addition of horse droppings or old Mushroom beds 
and road grit, this being well forked into the surface, the cuttings to be 
dibbled in firmly to about half their length, taking care that each touches 
the bottom of the hole forme! for it and is properly fixed with the point 
of the dibble. As they will form good flowering plants during the follow¬ 
ing summer it is advisable to give them plenty of room, or say not less 
than 12 inches each way. As a few of the cuttings usually fail, we 
prefer to place the roots 18 inches apart and the cuttings 9 inches apart 
in the rows, and in this manner the blanks are not so conspicuou*. The 
strongest of those struck last winter may be transplanted in November or 
next spring, and in all probability will soon become strong free-blooming 
bushes, and which will remain vigorous much longer than those on stocks 
of any kind. 
Planting Anemones .—Now is a good time to plant the fleshy roots of 
such kinds as A. apennina, A. nemorosa, A. coronaria, and A. vernal's, 
this supposing they are in a plump condition. When, however, they are 
newly bought in, and have been kept for some time in paper bags, they are 
almost certain to be somewhat shrivelled, and if committed to the ground 
in that state many very probably will decay. It will be found a safer 
plan to start them in boxes of moist sand, planting them out directly 
they appear to be commencing growth. They are most effective when 
planted either in patches of about six roots or in beds. The latter should 
be raised above the surrounding level, as badly drained positions or too 
much moisture is apt to prove fatal to the most delicate of them. If it 
can be afforded it is advisable to mix a good quantity of sandy loam with 
the ordinary garden soil. The drills may be drawn about 6 inches apart 
and 2 inches deep, and after a little sand has been addid the roots may 
be pLnted 6 inches apart, and the bed levelled over. If no fresh soil is 
added to the bed the roots ought to be turrounded with a good sandy 
compost, and this will encourage a healthy start. Ranunculuses ought 
not to be planted till February, while the first week in November is 
usually found quite early enough for planting Hyacinths, Tulips, and 
various other bulbs. 
