November t 1835. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
411 
will require no pruning except what is requisite to put them in proper 
form, and conduce to the filling of the space allotted to them as quickly 
as passible. The tendency to shoot away with strong vigorous shoots 
from the tops of the current season’s growth, which they all have, must be 
restrained by cutting back such shoots ; otherwise they will rob those at 
the base of the plant and leave it bare. When they have filled their 
allotted space the strong shoots must all he cut back annually, the weaker 
only being left, for it is on these that the flowers are produced. If the 
plants are very vigorous, and the crop of young shoots very numerous, it 
may be necessary to thin out the very weakest and the worst ripened, 
but this is rarely necessary, as when the plants begin flowering they lose 
some of their excessive vigour and produce a lesser quantity of young 
growth. 
These Roses bloom in May or June, according to the locality in which 
they are grown, and they bloom on the shoots formed the previous season. 
They must, therefore, not he pruned till after their flowering season is 
over ; hut as soon as that is over no time is to be lost in dealing with 
them. The best way to prune them after they have filled the space 
allotted to them is to first tie in a moderate number of young shoots, so as 
to regularly furnish each tree at all points with the same character of 
branches, and then take the hedge shears and trim the remainder hard in. 
The main point is to note the period at which this should be done. Many 
that we have known attempt the culture of these Roses have pruned them 
as they would any of the summer-flowering Roses, thus pruning away the 
flowering shoots, and have condemned them as shy bloomers. If the 
pruning is deferred till after the flowering is over, and if all the other con¬ 
ditions are what they should be, there will be no cause to complain of the 
shyness of these Roses, but good grounds to marvel at their profusion. It 
will, however, be found necessary perhaps twice or thrice during the 
summer to look over the plants and cut back the gross shoots which may 
make way and threaten to impoverish the weaker-flowering shoots of 
next year ; they should be cut back as soon as their character is determin¬ 
able which will be easily done when they have attained a length of about 
2 feet. It will then he seen whether they are to stop or run on ; if the 
latter, cut them back .—(North British Agriculturist.') 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
The lists of fruit given last month were selected with care, and a 
large proportion of the sorts enumerated will be found to answer in most 
gardens. But a real lover of fruit requires something more than a bare 
list; he wants ideas of which are the very best, such as he may regard as 
indispensable, and with which he may form the nucleus of an ever- 
increasing selection. He certainly has our warmest sympathy, and gladly 
will we help him. A Moorpark Apricot, a Brown Turkey Fig, an Orleans 
Plum, a Jargonelle Pear, a Ribston Pippin Apple, a Mayduke Cherry, a 
Grosse Mignonne Peach, a Pitmaston Orange Nectarine, a Warrington 
Gooseberry, and Keen’s Seedling Strawberry. Wbat garden can be 
without all of them ? They are well-tried favourites of sterling merit, 
and the very mention o£ them brings to mind many a famous old fruit 
garden—aye, and many a favourite tree too. Let us make some additions 
to them. Of Apricots Kaisba and Orange, both excellent early varieties, 
affording a bountiful supply of fruit for preserving as Apricot marmalade. 
No doubt Brown Turkey is the most hardy and prolific Fig we have, but 
for a few dishes of really fine fruit we must plant a tree or two of Bruns¬ 
wick, taking especial care to afford them a warm sheltered corner of a 
wall or building facing south-west. Green Gage Plum is, of course, 
indispensable ; so, too, are Purple Gage, McLaughlin’s Gage, Transparent 
Gage, Bryanston Gage, Reine Claude de Bavay, Coe’s Golden Drop, and 
Blue Imperatrice. Of Pears we may name a few which prove good in 
most gardens, but it must not he forgotten what an uncertain fruit this is, 
none being more sueceptible of the influence of soil and climate ; and 
although the Pear Congress will doO'Mless do much good, yet we can 
hardly venture to consider its decisions as final, for many Pears are fruits 
of a season, being quite delic'ous one year and only suitable for stewing 
in another. Even Jargonelle must be watched closely, as the fruit becomes 
over-ripe and spoils so quickly. Williams’ Bon ChrStien is certainly a 
safe sort to plant, and we may recommend that king of autumn Pears, 
Fandante d’Automne, with Comte de Lamy. Fondante de Cuarneau, 
Doyennd du Comice, Knight’s Monarch, Seckle, Dana’s Hovey, Jewess, 
Winter Nelis, Huyshe’s Victoria, and Glou Monjeau, as being a few of our 
very best Pears. ’ But if you only have space for some single cordons, 
plant as many as you can 18 inches apart, and try the sorts we name and 
as many more as.you can find space for. Nothing in fruit culture is more 
interesting than a collection of cordon Pears. Apples may be said to be 
badly represented by Ribston Pippin, because of the tendency of the tree 
to fail from canker. Well, by all means plant Cox’s Orange Pippin ; we 
have had a rich reward for planting it extensively, but we have also a few 
trees of Ribston Pippin, and of other really choice dessert sorts we have 
Kerry Pippin (so valuable in September), the high-coloured Worcester 
Pearman, King of the Pippins, Margil (so valuable for the freedom with 
which fruit is produced upon small trees), Pine Golden (Pippin, Pine 
Apple Russet, Golden Russet, Cornish Gilliflower, Reinette Van Mons. 
Melon Apple, Fearn’s Pippin, Red Astrachan, and Hubbard’s Pearmain, 
There are two Cherries which we consider indispensable for cooking and 
preserving—Belle Magnifique and Morello, and for dessert in addition to 
Mayduke space should be found for Governor Wood, Bigarreau, and Black 
Tartarian. Of Peaches Early Beatrice is 20 per cent, better against an 
open wall than when grown under glass, the fruit being of higher colour, 
and it is really rich in flavour. It is so much in demand that there should 
at least be two trees of it. Barrington and Walburton Admirable must 
also be had for our supply of late fruit, and for intermediate sorts Dr. 
Hogg, Rivers’ Early York, and Belle Bauce. If, however, you can only 
afford space for one tree, let it by all means be a Grosse Mignonne. The 
best late Nectarine we have is Pine Apple, with richly flavoured yellow 
flesh quite equal to Pitmaston Orange. Downton and Balgowan are grands 
Nectarines, and Rivers’ White affords some pretty dishes of fruit. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early-forced Vines in Pots .—Where thin-skinned Grapes 
are required in April, they taking precedence of Lady Downe’s and other 
late varieties, the house intended for their culture will now be ready for 
their reception, if indeed they are not already in position. The pots 
should be placed on stands or pedestals which will not give way under 
their weight or interfere with turning the fermenting materials used for 
supplying bottom heat, than which nothing answers better than bricks 
placed to the required height without mortar. Where weight and quality 
of crop are first considerations some turf should be packed against the 
pedestal, and the holes in the pots enlarged, bringing the turf up above 
these so as to be within easy reach of the roots, which will speedily 
follow the stimulating food with which the Vines are fed. For supplying 
bottom heat Oak leaves are the best, as they supply heat and moisture 
through the early stages of growth and rich stimulating food from their 
decay at the finish, when the fruit requires all the support that can be 
given to it. Care should be taken that the heat about the pots does not 
exceed 70° to 75°. The canes should be allowed to fall in a horizontal 
position over the fermenting material until they have broken, and be 
syringed two or more times a day, but sufficiently early for the last time 
each day to allow of the canes becoming fairly dry before nightfall. If 
the Vines have not been shortened to the proper length and dressed with 
styptic they must not be shortened now, as bleeding would weaken them, 
and it is easy to disbud when they start. Black Hamburgh, Royal Ascot, 
White Frontignan, and Foster’s Seedling are excellent kinds for early 
forcing in pots, to which may be added Madresfield Court, which requires 
liberal feeding until the berries show signs of changing colour, when a 
gradual diminution, combined with a dry atmosphere, is necessary to 
prevent cracking. 
Earliest-forced Planted-out Vines .—The bouses containing Vines from 
which ripe Grapes are expected early in May should be closed by the 
middle of this month, or if the Vines are young and vigorous and not 
subjected to early forcing before, close the house at once, as they do not 
break so quickly as old ones that have been forced for a number of years. 
With a view of economising fire heat, and to produce a humid atmosphere, 
a good bed or ridge of fermenting material, consisting of two parts leaves 
and one of stable litter, may be placed upon the border and turned over 
at short intervals, additions being made as the heat declines. In the cases 
of old rods they may be tied up to the wires as soon as they are dressed, 
but young canes ought to be suspended in a horizontal position over the 
fermenting materials, where they can be well syringed with tepid water 
slightly warmer than the house, but it is well to allow them to become 
dry at least once in the twenty-four hours or at night. Keep the tem¬ 
perature at 50° to 55° at night, and 65° on fine days, the temperature by 
artificial means in the day being 55° until the Vines begin to move. If 
the border is not in a thoroughly moist condition it must receive repeated 
supplies of tepid water or liquid manure if the Vines are weak, so as to 
thoroughly moisten it through. 
Midsrason Houses .—Those that still contain a few bunches of Black 
Hamburgh and other thin-skinned Grapes may now be cleared, as the fruit 
will keep fresh in a cool dry room, and the Vines will derive great benefit 
from free exposure to the weather so long as it continues dry and mild. 
When thoroughly at rest Vines will not be injured by a little frost, but a 
sudden chill should be guarded against by drawing up the roof-lights, or 
closing the houses when the nights are likely to be wet and frosty. The 
Grapes should be cut with all the wood that can be spared for insertion 
into bottles of water, which should be soft, and a piece of charcoal placed 
in each, removing the old foliage, but do not shorten the wood that has 
been allowed to extend beyond the bunch. 
Succession Houses .—Rush on the pruning as soon as the Vines become 
clear of foliage, also the cleansing, painting, and lime-washing, carefully 
washing the Vines with soap and waterprior to dressing with an approved 
insecticide. Presuming the Vines have been fairly free of insects, the old- 
fashioned practice of peeling, scraping, and painting with a pigment of 
clay, soot, sulphur, and other nastiness, which is more calculated to protect 
the larvae than destroy it, it is better to wash twice and preserve the 
beauty of the bark, which is of incalculable value in holding moisture 
from (he syringe and aids the flow of the sap when they are starting in 
growth when excited by genial moisture and warmth. 
Late Hamburghs .—The atmosphere in which bunches of these are 
hanging cannot be kept too dry. A steady temperature of 50°, with a little 
warmth in the pipes and liberal ventilation on dry days, will suit them 
during the fall of the leaf, when, unless the house is well adapted for 
keeping them, the bunches may be cut, bottled, and placed in the late 
houses. 
