412 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
[November 5, 1885. 
Late Houses. —If late Grapes have not finished well, nothing; will be 
gained by pushing the fires after the wood is ripe, neither will a high 
temperature prevent them from shrivelling when the leaves fall. Where 
this defect is the consequence of over-cropping, relief should be given 
the Vines by cutting a portion of the bunches at the earliest convenience ; 
but where it can be traced to imperfect drainage or bad borders, no time 
should be lost in getting out the old soil and laying the roots in new 
compost over rectified drainage. Highly finished Muscats hanging on 
Vines that have lost their leaves are liable to be tinged by exposure to 
bright sunshine, which, though weak in November, disfigures them to 
some extent, especially when grown for market. To guard against this, 
which is only needed in case of houses with large panes of glass, a single 
thickness of pilchard nets drawn over the roof will be a sufficient shading. 
If not already done late Vine borders should have some covering placed 
over them that will throw off rain and snow. The inside borders will be 
getting dry at the surface, and should be covered with some dry fern or 
straw neatly spread over them, which will prevent the border cracking 
and its giving off dust, bessdes improving their appearance. Give daily 
attention to the removal of ripe foliage as it parts from the Vines, keeping 
cool, dry, clear of plants requiring water, and thoroughly clean. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Lily of the Valley. —Plants that have been prepared in pots for early 
forcing as directed in spring have ripened their foliage and have been 
resting for some time. The two or three slight, frosts that we have had 
lately have been beneficial for these, as they will start better and more 
quickly into growth when introduced into heat. This may be done 
without delay. Plunge the pots in cocoa-nut fibre refuse or sawdust some 
inches beneath the surface where a uniform bottom heat of 80° to 85° can 
be maintained. If the top heat can be kept at 65° to 70° it will be 
ample. When the plants have commenced growth they should he placed 
nearer the surface, so that the flower spikes and foliage can grow through 
and thus gradually expose themselves to light. The flowers and foliage 
of this lovely Lily are often crippled by lifting them from the plunging 
material and exposing them directly to full light. Plants that have been 
growing in the open ground on purpose for lifting msy now be taken up 
and sorted. Reserve the best crowns for potting or placing in pans and 
boxes according to requirements. The smaller ones can be planted again 
on the same ground after manuring it well to be ready for lifting again in 
two years. Under this system it is necessary to make a plantation 
annually, and then a portion is ready for lifting every year. 
Obtain imported clumps now and place them in 5 and 6-inch pots, 
arranging them outside until they have been exposed to sharp frost, 
when they may be placed in a cold frame. Single crowns (imported) are 
now largely used for early forcing, and should be placed in boxes and 
pans at once if the flowers are required early. These may be potted, but 
we usually lay them in leaf soil. The boxes must not be too large, for 
they come forward more evenly in small than large ones. If these are 
placed into heat directly they will not start freely into growth. Those 
stood outside for two or three weeks and sent to rest by frost will come 
into flower before those introduced as soon as imported. 
Spircea japonica. —These may now be lifted, selecting those only 
with large plump crowns that are certain to flower, and place them in 
5 and 6-inch pots. The portions with small crowns can be laid in a 
heap with a little soil or ashes over them until a convenient time for 
planting. The plants reserved for this purpose should be cut into 
suitable sizes, so that they will go into the pots named after a season’s 
growth. They should be planted on ground liberally enriched with 
manure and fully exposed to light and air, which is essential to the 
development of strong flowering crowns in one season. Moderate-sized 
crowns are much better for planting for next year than larger ones that 
may probably flower. The smaller ones develops into a flowering size, 
while those that flower naturally divide into a number of smaller and 
weaker crowns, requiring two years before they become of a flowering 
size. By planting the pieces with small crowns a stock of flowering 
plants are annually raised, and those that have been forced can, when 
they have done flowering, be conveyed to the rubbish heap. 
Dielytra spcctafrilvs.— These also must be lifted and potted as advised 
for Spirmas. Small or weak crowns should be planted again for another 
year in rich soil. If sufficient stock cannot he obtained from these a few 
good-sized plants should always be kept on hand, to be lifted and divided 
for this purpose. Some of the plants that are forced are good for this 
purpose if planted out in the shrubbery and other borders for a year or 
two to thoroughly recruit themselves. All those forced can be planted 
out afterwards, if not they can go to the rubbish heap. Those planted 
for another year should have a sheltered position, where they will be pro¬ 
tected from spring frosts, for they start early into growth and are very 
liable to suffer. The crowns should also he protected from severe frosts 
by scattering over them a little litter or half-decayed manure. These 
may be placed in a frame or any cool place after potting. 
Solomon's Seal (Convallaria polygonatum).—Lift the largest crowns 
for potting in various sized pots according to requirements. These plants, 
with their arching stem of leaves and flowers, are very useful for orna¬ 
mental arrangements in the conservatory or elsewhere. The small crowns 
should be planted for lifting next autumn, the same as advised for Spirmas 
and Dielytras. 
Lilium longiflorum and Harrisi. —Obtain bulbs of these and pot 
them at once if they are wanted in flower early in the season. Place 
single bulbs in 4-inch pots in a compost of loam three parts, the other 
part being composed of leaf mould and manure ; to this may be added 
a good dash of coarse sand. Cover the bulbs with soil when potting 
them. After potting stand them in a cold frame and cover with about 
1 inch of cocoa-nut fibre refuse. They can remain in this condition until 
they grow through the plunging material. When wanted early place 
the pots containing the bulbs where a greenhouse temperature can be 
maintained, but cover in the same way. 
Other Plants for Forcing. —Azalea pontica, with the Ghent and 
Mollis varieties as well as Hybrid Rhododendrons, should now be lifted 
for forcing. Pot them in good loam, and afterwards they need not be 
taken indoors, but can be plunged outside until they are wanted. As- 
fruit houses are cleaned these are placed in them in batches ready for 
starting with the various house", to be eventually drafted from the 
forcing house. The steady heat of these structures start the plants slowly, 
and they come forward rapidly when introduced into the closer and 
warmer atmosphere of the forcing house. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Tuberous-rooted Plants. —In some positions Dahlias and various other 
tender bedding plants are still flowering freely, and in this case it is not 
necessary to interfere with them, but where they have been rendered 
unsightly by the frosts they may well be lifted and stored. Dahlias to 
have their stems cut down to about 9 inches of the roots, and after they 
have been lifted or dried, the stems being downward while this is being 
accomplished, to he stored in a cool dry outhouse, potting shed, or cellar 
The labels bearing either the name or description of each variety to be 
securely fastened to each, this preventing much confusion at propagating 
time. Now that there are such a great variety of singles it is unwise to 
preserve any but the very best sorts. Cannas to be lifted and treated 
similarly to the Dahlias, with the exception that the soil should not be so 
freely cleared from the roots. Salvia patens when lifted to be stored 
thickly in a box of fairly moist soil, and these may be wintered with the 
Dahlias. Verbena venosa forms long fleshy roots, and as many of these 
as possible should be lifted and packed thickly in boxes of good soil and 
wintered in a cold frame, house, or pit. It is by means of short lengths of 
these fleshy roots that the stock can he most readily increased next 
spring. Tuberous-rooted Begonias are now largely planted in the flower 
garden, and they fully deserve to become even more popular. Those 
that are damaged by frosts may now be lifted and stored thickly in boxes 
of slightly moist soil, and this will preserve them in a plump state during 
the winter and early spring months. This less fire heat this class of 
plants receive after they have formed good tubers the better. They should 
be wintered in a dry frame, pit, outhouse, or in a greenhouse, where no 
drip will reach them. These and all the foregoing will require to be care¬ 
fully protected from severe frosts, but must not be coddled, or otherwise 
they are apt to start into growth prematurely, and be considerably 
weakened thereby. 
Spring-flowering Plants. —Many of these are much smaller than usual, 
this being especially the case where the seed was sown rather late, and 
unless they are planted more thickly than heretofore the ultimate effect 
will be weakened. Transplanting at this time of year should be done as 
much as possible during dry weather, as this admits of its being done 
cleanly and well. It is of great importance that each plant be lifted with 
good balls of soil and roots, and he firmly fixed when replanted. They 
will also require to be firmed after severe,, frosts, as these loosen them 
considerably and greatly interfere with the free rooting and flowering 
habits of the plants. All are great exhausters of the ground, and as they 
make hut poor progress on poor soil it may be advisable in some cases to 
dig in a quantity of decayed manure or leaf soil. Mixed borders especially 
usually stand in most need of manure, and unless it is given either now or 
in the spring without stint the occupants cannot reasonably be expected 
to grow healthily. All the various kinds of bulbs that require to be 
planted at the present time will produce finer spikes and heads of blooms 
when the ground is properly manured and otherwise well prepared for their 
reception. For this class of spring flowering plants or bulbs well-decayed 
matiure should be used, this being well mixed with the soil in preference 
to merely turning it in to a great depth. The Narcissus, Daffodils, Snow¬ 
drops, and Tulips ought always to he planted early, the two former 
especially so, while Hyacinths may be planted now or a month later, 
according as to whether an early or late display is required. All are most 
effective when grouped or planted in lines of one colour in preference to 
haphazard mixtures. The bulbs should be disposed about 2 inches below 
the surface, and choice sorts may well be surrounded with good gritty 
compost. 
Selections of Poses. —The time has arrived for ordering and planting 
Roses, or they may be purchased and n refully laid in where they can be 
protected duriDg severe fronts, planning being deferred till the spring. 
Roses planted at the present time fre | ently form a few fresh roots before 
the winter, and break more stronglv n the spiing in consequence ; but 
then they are not so easily protected during severe weather, and those 
laid-in Roses start surprisingly well after they are planted, providing the 
delicate young fibres they form to a surprising extent are not injured; 
during the act of transplanting them. If the Roses, whether dwarfs or 
standards, are received in bundles, these must be separated and laid in 
thinly, and not in heaps as we have seen them. We- may again escape 
very severe frosts, but it is always best to prepare for them. Rough 
strawy litter thrown over those laid in will save them, and a heavy 
mulching of the same material will abo benefit those planted out. Land 
that has long been occupied with Roses is scarcely suitable for new 
plantations, but if this cannot be avoided it should be trenched, unless 
the subsoil prevents this, and some good fresh compost should be placed' 
about the roots. The following Hybrid Perpetuals are worthy of culture- 
