434 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ November 12, 1885. 
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KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Globe Artichokes. —We have frequently wintered these in th e 
south without any protection, but our readers in the north must not risk 
this, and in all cases it will be well to protect them when frost comes. 
Indeed, where litter is plentiful the whole might be done at once, and 
they will be safe for the winter. Do not cover the head, but place a good 
quantity of the manure around the neck of each plant. Our plants have 
lately grown fast. Tbey were rather checked with the dry weather in 
July and August, which may have caused them to die earlier, and the 
moisture in September induced them to grow again luxuriantly. Young 
heads are forming, and should the weather remain mild we shall cut several 
dishes before November is out. This extra growth will, no doubt, have 
occurred with many, and it ought to be preserved if possible by protecting 
now as suggested. When the weather has come very severe we have 
sometimes thrown straw covering over the whole of the tops, but this is 
not necessary as a rule. 
Rhubarb —We know of some excellent growers of this who assert 
that the proper time to feed Rhubarb is in winter, and our practice verifies 
this. We rarely feed our Rhubarb in summer, but mulch it heavily at 
this season with strong manure, and the growths are always as plentiful 
and strong as we could desire them. Young roots in recently manured 
rich ground will not require any feeding, but old roots which have been 
growing for a number of years in the same spot will be greatly benefited 
by it. They do not waut protection, therefore light stuff with no sub¬ 
stance in it need not be put over the plants, but strong juicy cow or pig 
manure should be used. Spread it over the surface so far as the roots 
extend at least, and put it on 4 inches thick. 
Broad Beans. —These may also be sown at the same time as the 
Peas. The drills may be from 3 feet to 4 feet apart, and the depth 
4 inches. They will succeed in a much heavier soil than the Peas ; but 
if put into this alone the seed may decay, and it is a good plan to open 
the drills 6 inches deep, place sand or light soil in the bottom to the 
depth of 2 inches, tread this down, sow the seed, and fill with more fine 
soil or sand. This will prevent decay of the seed, and as the roots go 
downward they will not depend on any of the light surface soil for 
nourishment. In spring and summer we generally sow our Beans singly 
2 or 3 inches apart, but now they should be put closer than this. 
Endive. —This is a most valuable and acceptable addition to salad 
plants in winter. We value the Broad-leaved Batavian variety more than 
any other salad plant we possess from November until March. We grow 
it largely and exclusively. The Green Curled is pretty, but not so useful 
as this excellent broad-leaved sort. The plants grow very large, and are 
very hardy. Like other Endives, they require tying up a fortnight 
beforo being used, and quantities ought to be tied up now for use during 
the latter part of this month and throughout December. Gather the 
leaves all together at the top, bind them round, and tie them close with a 
piece of matting, and the centres will soon become tender and cream- 
coloured. We always tie them when quite dry, and as the rain cannot 
penetrate to the centre easily when the leaves are tied at the top we do 
not lose many plants from damp. They will bear a few degrees of frost, 
hut in very severe weather, or just before this, a large quantity should be 
lifted, placed in cool frames, and covered over with lights. When frames 
were not available we have sometimes placed numbers of them close 
together on the inside border of a cool Peach house, and they kept uncom¬ 
monly well there. So long as they can be kept dry there is little danger 
of their decaying. 
Chicory. —A number of roots of this should be lifted and put in 
eights or tens into 9-inch pots f ir forcing. Cut all the top leaves away 
before pitting. Any soil will suit, and a temperature of 65° or 70° will 
soon cause fresh leaves to be emitted. When kept in a dark place they 
come a beautiful creamy colour, and are tender and juicy. Chicory is 
easily grown in summer, still easier forced in winter, and is much valued 
in made-up salads. With a good supply of this and Mustard and Cress 
no one need dread the destruction of their Lettuce by frost. 
Cabbage. —The snails have been busy amongst the Cabbage plants, 
and we observe many blanks, which will be filled up on an early day. 
All plantations should be looked over now with the object of doing this, 
as young plants put in now will begin to root before severe weather, and 
they will grow freely with the earliest in spring. It is not desirable, 
however, that there should be too many blanks, and the surface of the 
soil where the plants are growing should be dusted with a little fresh 
lime. Our winter Spinach and late Turnips ere hardly so good now as in 
former autumns. They never quite got over the drying up they exper.- 
enced when young an I ten ter in August. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Cucumbers. —As soon as the roots protrude through the surface of the 
mounds add more soil to the hillocks, which should have been previously 
warmed to the temperature of the house and be in a moist condition, so 
that the roots will enter through it at once. Complete earthing the first 
autumn plants, and mulch at once with decayed manure, which will 
attract the roots upward and act as a stimulant. The waterings should be 
copious and as frequent only as necessary and according to the require¬ 
ments of each plant. It should be given at a temperature of 75° to 80°. 
When to apply and to withhold water can only be determined by those in 
charge and possessing a practical knowledge of the wants and condition 
of the plants, and even then the application or non-application of water 
to the roots must be determined by circumstance 0 , as the mode by which 
bottom heat is obtained, and the scope of root-action possessed by the 
plants, as well as by their condition and appearance generally. The fires 
on bright mornings should be stopped, or the heat turned off about eight 
o’clock, by which time the sun heat will take the place of artificial heat, 
and is much better for the plants. It does not answer to keep the fires 
going until the day temperature is reached, as the sun as well as the fire 
heat has increased in force, rendering ventilation immediately neces¬ 
sary to prevent the temperature rising too high, as to lower it is 
not only wasting heat, but letting in c >ld air which will produce a 
chill. The fires should be again started in the afternoon as the sun is 
decreasing in power and going off the houses, so that by the time the sun 
heat, husbanded by early closing, is exhausted, the heat from the pipes 
may be sufficient to secure the temperature at 65°, or in the event of 
sevtre frost a night temperature of 60° is ample. To maintain this the 
piping should be liberal, while to economise fuel, and to obtain a more 
genial heat, it is a capital plan to cover the roof of the house or pit at 
night with mats. The temperature in the day should range from 70° 
to 75° by artificial means, and 80° to 85° from sun heat, and no oppor¬ 
tunity should be lost of utilising solar heat for the growth of the plants 
by careful ventilation. If mildew appears dust at once with flowers of 
sulphur, and keep the house rather drier and ventilate more frequently. 
If aphides appear fumigate, but it must be done moderately, and on two 
or three consecutive evenings. If canker show on the stems rub quick¬ 
lime well into the affected parts, repeating it until the parts become dry 
and healed. 
As the first plants are showing fruit freely all superfluous ones should 
be removed at once, as on the judicious cropping of the plants during this 
month and early December depends the success of a supply of fruit from 
Christmas to March. Crop lightly and otherwise attend to the stopping 
and thinning, also tying of the shoots, allowing no more than can have 
freo exposure to light, removing any decayed portion of growth or foliage 
that may appear, and keep the glass clean, so that all the light possible 
may be secured to the plants. 
Strawberries in Pots. —The early plants of varieties intended for 
early forcing have well-developed crowns, and be in a state of rest and in 
cool quarters, though with lights over them to shelter them from heavy 
rains. Towards the close of the present month early plants of some 
approved varieties will need to be started in gentle heat with a view of 
having ripe fruit about the middle of next February. Of all those we 
have tried preference is given to La Grosse Sucrhe, on account of its fruit 
being larger than many others, besides setting well, swelling well, and 
being of a bright red colour. At the same time, plants of Yicomtesse 
Hericart de Thury and Sir Harry may be started, as we find it best not to 
rely exclusively on one variety, and all are good. Black Prince is still 
grown by some, and if worth forcing at all it should be as a first early, 
but we have discarded it. In the meantime the plants should have their 
drainage examined and rectified where it is at all deranged, and the pots 
freed of moss, &c., by washing. Any decayed leaves should be removed, 
but avoid dressing them very close, stirring the surface of the soil and 
removing the inert matter without damaging the roots, afford a top-dressing 
of fresh horse droppings rubbed through the hands with a sprinkling of 
bone dust, into which they will root, being a means of encouraging surface 
roots, and with these there is certain to be plenty in the pots when the 
plants begin to make top growth. For early work a Strawberry house is 
best, but in its absence, as it unfortunately is in only too many places 
where Strawberries are wanted and must be had early, a Peach or other 
forcing house started at the same time as the Strawberries will be a suitable 
place to bring forward the plants, tbey being assigned a position near the 
glass and where they will receive plenty of air without it coming directly 
upon them. For the first fortnight the house should only be closed, no 
fire heat being used except to exclude frost, taking advantage of sun heat 
to close the house so as to induce gentle excitement, and the night tem¬ 
perature will not fall much, if any, below 50° at night unless frost prevails. 
During the early stages of forcing the temperature by artificial means 
ought not to exceed 50°. 
Fruiting plants will require to be sparingly watered, and will need a 
a position near the glass in a house with a rather dry atmosphere and 
with a temperature by artificial means of 60° to 65°. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Calanthes .—The flower spikes of the earliest plants will be advancing 
rapidly, and if earlier than they are required they may be retarded by 
placing them in a temperature of 50° to 55°. Plants in this stage must be- 
watered very carefully, for nearly all the foliage has ripened naturally, 
but the roots remain active for soma time afterwards if not destroyed by 
suddenly withholding water from them. When the roots naturally die it 
is useless to apply water to them afterwards, but until they reach this 
stage the soil should not be destitute of moisture. The atmosphere in 
which they are placed should be moderately dry, for the flowers last 
nearly double the length of time under these conditions than is the case 
in a warm moist structure. Calanthes are effective when in bloom 
arranged amongst Adiantumsor other Ferns, which hide the pots and dis¬ 
play to much advantage the light arching spikes of white and rose- 
coloured flowers. They are also very useful in the conservatory, arranged 
amongst Pelargoniums, Primulas, Cyclamens, and other dwarf flowering 
