November 12, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
437 
to have them in clumps in mixed borders half a dozen bulbs should be 
planted in a circle 5 or G inches in diameter, and they may be covered 2 or 
3 inches deep with light soil. The flowers are very bright and beautiful. 
Apricot Failing under Glass ( J. T. IT.). —Apricots when grown under 
glass require an abundance of air in spring or when flowering, so as to keep 
the atmosphere buoyant and dry. This, we think, is the cause of the failure 
in your case—viz., the house is kept too close, too moist, and too high in 
temperature at the time of flowering, which brings on the flowers too 
quickly, they being then puny, and the blossoms do not set and fruit 
swell, simply because not fertilised. The only remedy is to give more air, 
keeping the house cooler and drier. A few degrees of frost will not 
injure the blossoms providing they are dry, but it as well to exclude it, and 
especially from the embryo fruit, which is very tender. This course of 
treatment will of course interfere with the Peach trees to some extent, but 
if you want Apricots they must have air, as a close atmosphere is fatal. 
Perhaps the tree suffers by want of water at the roots during the resting 
period. Ike soil should be kept moist at all times, and care should be taken 
to have.it thoroughly so when the buds are swelling and onward throughout 
the period of growth. 
Planting Slopes on Limestone (IP.).—Beech does admirably on limestone 
or chalk, and we should make it exclusively the hard wood throughout. We 
have also seen some very fine plantations of Larch on limestone where the 
soil was thin and bouldery, the Larch having to be planted in the crevices or 
spaces between the boulders. These would mike capital nurses for the 
Beech, and prove profitable after the first few years from the necessary 
thinning. Scotch Fir also does capitally, and is an excellent nurse ; but it 
ought to be used less—more sparingly than Larch, from its not being nearly 
so valuable as timber. A few Austrian Pines may be used, but chiefly on 
the outside, for the sake of effect and shelter. Corsican Pine is quick-grow¬ 
ing, and may be put at the back, especially where you have deeper soil. It 
is a very handsome tree, always telling well in a mixed plantation from its 
deep green foliage and towering habit, usually rising above them all. By 
all means trench the ground—a process too much neglected—as the best 
means of securing the speedy establishment of the trees and certainty of 
securing a good growth. Manure will not be necessary unless the ground 
is poor and devoid of fibrous matter, as that of turf or a grassy surface. If 
manure be given it should be thoroughly decayed, as Conifers do not do well 
in soil containing crude manure. 
African Groundsel (Reader). —It is quite true this name has appeared 
in the Journal. Ic is employed in connection with a somewhat remarkable 
climbing or trailing plant—Senecio macroglossa, which is figured on page 
67, vol. viii., January 24th, 1884. It iB described there as having leaves like 
Ivy and flowers resembling those of the Etoile d'Or variety of Chrysanthe¬ 
mum frutescens. Senecio macroglossus has been found on the Table Moun¬ 
tain, at the Cape of Good Hope, and in other districts of South Africa, seeds 
having been first sent to Kew by Mr. Sanderson in 1868, and from these pro¬ 
bably the first plants grown in this country were raised. Sir Joseph Hooker 
states that he has heard that in some continental or other cities this plant 
is grown in rooms and trained round the walls near the ceiling, and from its 
peculiar succulent structure it would, no doubt, be fitted for such dry posi¬ 
tions, though its strength would be severely tested in ordinary English 
rooms. The best position for it is a greenhouse or cool Btove, but the former 
is preferable, as it cannot endure a moist atmosphere. It is not particular 
as to compost, light sandy loam with a little leaf soil or old decayed 
manure being suitable, and if grown in a pot this must be thoroughly 
•drained and water very carefully supplied. The best plan is, however, that 
adopted at Kew, where it is planted out and trained up the roof of the house 
The Rationale of Planting and Potting Bulbs (E. S.). —You ask for 
<! information on the rationale of bulb-planting in the open border and in 
pots,” and observe that “ neither Lindley’s ‘ Theory and Practice of Horti¬ 
culture ’ nor Thompson’s ‘ Gardener’s Assistant ’ throw much light on the 
matter, especially as to the depth at which bulbs should be planted to 
secure complete success.” Something more than the mere depth that bulbs 
are covered is requisite for achieving complete success; still, we will 
endeavour to answer your question. The bulbs of the splendid Hyacinths 
that are awarded honours at the London shows are scarcely covered, but 
the apex of such is about level with the rim of the pot, and the surface of 
the soil is made level fully half an inch below it. The same remark applies 
to Narcissi, Tulips, Crocuses, Scillas, and small bulbs generally are just 
covered with soil when grown in pots, and the pots in turn covered about 
5 inches deep with cocoa-nut fibre refuse. This applies to all bulbs. In 
planting bulbs in beds for one season only—that is, removing the bulbs 
after flowering—they are covered a little more than their own depth with 
soil. Crocuses, for instance, are covered a little more than an inch deep, 
and Hyacinths twice that depth, about an inch thick of fibre refuse or leaf 
mould being spread on the beds after the soil is levelled over the bulbs. In 
planting bulbs in borders to remain permanently they should be covered 
from twice to thrice their own depth or thickness—Crocuses and the like 
2 to 3 inches, Hyacinths and the like 4 to 5 inches. If planted near the 
surface the earth is washed from them sooner or later. But it is bad practice 
to simply press a dibber into the ground to those depths and drop the bulbs 
into the holes thus made, as they are then either suspended or rest on a 
hard base, and in adhesive soil these holes are really miniature wells in 
which water collects. The base on which bulbs rest should be light and 
free—roots then penetrate it readily and superfluous water passes away. 
Bulbs should also bo covered with soil through which the growth can 
extend freely, and the lighter it is the deeper they may be covered—for 
instance, they will push through G inches of leaf soil or gritty vegetable 
matter with greater freedom than through 2 inches of clay. It is an excel¬ 
lent practice to embed bulbs in and surround them with sand, or a mixture 
of sand and wood ashes, and too much importance cannot be attached to 
early planting. The more the crowns extend from bulbs out of the ground 
the worse it is for them, and root-extension should be slightly in advance 
of top growth for securing “ complete success.” Your letter would have 
been answered last week if it had been received a day sooner. 
Names of Fruits.—The names and addresses of senders of fruit to 
be named must in all cases be enclosed with the specimens, whether 
letters referring to the fruit are sent by post or not. The names are 
not necessarily required for publication, initials sufficing for that. (Rev. C. 
Mars den). —1, Beurrd d’Aremberg ; 2, Passe Colmar; 3, Chaumontel. 
(D. I.). —1, Swan’s Egg; 2, Suzette de Bavay ; 3, Belle Julie; 4, Beurrd 
Diel; G, Spanish Bon Chretien. (J. S.).— Pears : 1, Comte de Lamy; 2, 
Seckle; 5, Easter Beurrd; 6, Noveau Poiteau. Apples: 1, Bedfordshire 
Foundling; 5, Wyken Pippin. (W. L .).—Seckle Pear. You will see a his¬ 
tory of it in “The Fruit Manual.” (J. C.). —1, Dumelow’s Seedling; 3, 
Stunner Pippin; 4, Norfolk Beefing. (IF., Hull). —1, Golden Noble; 2, 
Crimson Queening ; 3, Blenheim Pippin ; 4, Marie Louise ; 5, Winter Nelis ; 
6, Josephine de Malines. (J. Cornhill). —Marie Louise d’Uccle. (E. M.). — 
1, Northern Greening ; 2, Winter Colman ; 3, not known; 4, a small Van 
Mons Leon Leclerc ; 5, not known. (H. IL). —1, Gloucestershire Costard; 
2, Wiltshire Defiance ; 3, Beurre Diel; 4, American Mother. 5, Pitmaston 
Duchess ; 6, Beurre Diel. 
Names of Plants.— We only undertake to name species of plants, not 
varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm 
boxes. Slightly damp moss or soft green leaves form the best packing, dry 
cotton wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once. 
(IF. A. Kenning). —1, Agrostemma Flos-Jovis; 3, Armeria maritima. We 
cannot name the others from such specimens. 
Square Stewarton Hive (Zenas ).—You will find that the Bquare 
“ Lanarkshire ” divisional hive with ventilating floor, as described lately in 
these pages, approaches nearest to the Stewarton proper, and is better 
adapted, with all the later improvements, to bee-keeping than any other 
form of the square Stewarton type. It may be had from Messrs. George 
Neighbour & Sons, 149, Regent Street, London. We are not able to say 
where you can procure an African goat. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— November 11th. 
Trade very quiet, with heavy supplies. Large arrival of 
St. 
Michael 
Pines this week. 
Kent Cobs very dull. 
FRUIT. 
3. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
s. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples. 
* sieve 
l 
0 
to S 
6 
Oranges. 
.. 100 
8 
0 to 12 
0 
,, Canadian .. 
barre 
10 
0 
15 
0 
Peaches . 
per doz. 
2 
0 
8 
0 
Cobs, Kent .. per 
100 lbs. 22 
0 
25 
0 
Pears, kitchen .. 
dozen 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Figs . 
dozen 
0 
8 
0 
9 
,, dessert 
dozen 
0 
4 
1 
6 
Grapes. 
0 
6 
2 
0 
Pine Apples English.. tt>. 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Lemons .. .. 
.. case 
15 
0 
21 
0 
Plums. 
$ sieve 
1 
3 
2 
0 
Melons. 
1 
0 
1 
6 
St. Michael Pines 
. .each 
1 
6 
5 
0 
VEGETABLES. 
8. 
d. 
s. d 
8. 
d. 
s. 
d 
Artichokes .. ,. 
dozen 
l 
0 to 0 
0 
Lettuce. 
dozen 
l 
0 to 
1 
6 
Asparagus .. .. 
bundle 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Mushrooms .. 
punnet 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Beans, Kidney 
lb. 
0 
s 
0 
0 
Mustard and Cress 
punnet 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Beet, Red .. .. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Onions. 
bunch 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Broccoli. 
bundle 
0 
9 
1 
0 
Parsley .. dozen bunches 
2 
0 
8 
0 
Brussels Sprouts .. 
i sieve 
2 
6 
3 
0 
Parsnips. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Cabbage . 
dozen 
0 
0 
1 
0 
Potatoes .. .. . 
cwt. 
4 
0 
5 
0 
Capsicums .. .. 
100 
1 
8 
2 
0 
,, Kidney . 
owt. 
4 
G 
6 
0 
Carrots. 
bunch 
0 
8 
0 
4 
Rhubarb. 
bundle 
0 
4 
e 
0 
Cauliflowers .. .. 
dozen 
2 
0 
s 
0 
Salsafy. 
bundle 
1 
0 
0 
0 
Celery . 
bundle 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Scorzonera .. .. 
bundle 
1 
6 
0 
0 
Coleworts doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Sealtale .. .. per basket 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cucumbers .. .. 
each 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Shallots. 
.. lb. 
0 
3 
0 
6 
Endive. 
dozen 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Spinach. 
bushel 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Herbs . 
bunch 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Tomatoes .. .. 
.. lb. 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Leeks . 
bunch 
0 
s 
0 
4 
Turnips .. 
bunch 
0 
4 
0 
0 
WINTER DIET. 
To the practical home farmer, for whom our notes are 
written, the term “ dairy cows,” as used in our last article 
has a special significance, meaning, as it does, cows devoted 
solely to the production of milk, cream, and butter—aye, and 
cheese too, if you will, but not to the rearing of calves. We 
altogether object to the state of semi-starvation in which 
calves are so frequently kept; the system is radically 
wrong, and one would suppose that the most ignorant person 
would see the folly of it. Kept without food from ten to 
twelve hours at a time, faint from sheer exhaustion yet 
frantic with hunger, the calf rushes eagerly to the cow and 
gorges itself to repletion, and so the first few weeks of its 
existence are spent in a regular series of alternations of 
hunger and gluttony. Can we wonder that this unnatural 
treatment so frequently causes delicate calves to suffer from 
acute diarrhoea, to which many of them succumb and die ? 
