November 19, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
457 
to develops into natural bushes. They are admirably adapted for this 
purpose, and when good bushes are seen in flower they are not easily 
forgotten. I would strongly recommend them to be planted largely in 
all gardens and grounds by the sea, both in shrubbery borders and as 
single specimens on lawns. They will grow where some of our hardiest 
Hollies suffer dreadfully and present a very wretched appearance as the 
result of the cutting winds of the sea, but Escallonias appear rather to 
enjoy these winds than otherwise. E. macrantha, with its large, bright, 
dark green shining foliage, when well developed will compare most favour¬ 
ably as single specimens with Hollies. 
These plants will bear hard pruning ; iu fact, I have seen them annu¬ 
ally cut in closely with the shears. In certain positions they look very well 
when subject to this treatment and the surroundings harmonise with such 
formal specimens. I do not admire these formally trained specimens 
when they can be kept shapely and at the same time present a natural and 
beautiful appearance by a judicious use of the knife. Even when trained 
to develope into symmetrical specimens they should be allowed a little 
freedom of growth, and when pruned their outline should present some 
little irregularity, which adds materially to their beauty as naturally 
grown specimens. The best time to subject these plants to whatever 
pruning they require is after they have flowered, and even then close 
cutting back is not needed. By regulating and pruning what is necessary 
after flowering, the plants are ready in spring to make again a strong 
vigorous growth. These plants flower on the young wood, and should not 
be cut during the growing season further than may be necessary to check 
too luxuriant growth. 
Escallonias are propagated by means of cuttings, which root readily 
and quickly if the end of the young growths are selected when half 
ripened. They can, however, be rooted at almost any season of tbe year, 
but late summer or early autumn is preferable; in fact, I have inserted 
numbers of them after that date and with very marked success. The 
portion of shoot selected for the cuttings should be ab:ut 2 inches in 
length, and cut close to a joint with a sharp knife, the lower leaves being 
removed for about half their length. If inserted during late summer or 
early autumn the cuttings should be placed thickly together in sandy soil, 
and covered with handlights or small glass frames situated behind a wall 
or hedge. Give a good watering, and keep the handlights close until the 
cuttings have formed roots, when they should he gradually hardened by 
admitting air, and then placed singly in 3-inch pots. If inserted later in 
the season we prefer placing them in sandy soil in 8-inch pots, then have 
bellglasses over them, and stand them in a shady part of any house kept 
moderately close where the night temperature will range about 50° to 55°. 
They are not particular, for they will root more quickly and equally as well 
if they can be placed in a close frame where a bottom heat of about 75° can 
be given ; but I prefer the first method if only the cuttings are inserted 
early enough. They are not so liable to become checked when rooted 
under cool conditions as is the case when heat is employed. They are not 
so long forming roots as many plants, and whichever system is adopted 
they should be placed in the pots named and wintered in them. 
If rooted early they will be established before winter and must have 
the protection of a cold frame. As soon as the small pots are full of roots 
they should be placed into others 2 and 3 inches larger, and then 
when the weather is favourable they can be plunged outside, covering the 
pots to save labour in watering. These will be by the following autumn 
good plants about 1 foot high, and can be planted out early in favourable 
localities to become well established before winter. In uncertain 
localities planting had much better be deferred until the spring, and the 
plants protected in a cold frame. 
In nurseries where these plants are raised for sale they are grown in 
the size pots referred to and plunged out in them during the summer, so 
that they can with safety be obtained and planted at any season of the 
year. During winter they keep them in good condition by lifting the 
pots and protecting them in cold frames. 
There are several varieties of Escallonias, but I am only thoroughly 
acquainted with the two mentioned, the flowers of them both being bright 
red. There is a white-flowered variety, I believe, named E. montevi- 
densis, but I have never seen it in flower, and shall be glad to learn from 
those acquainted with it if it is as hardy as E. macrantha, and equally as 
beautiful and free-flowering.—B. 
TORENIA ASIATICA. 
This lovely plant when first introduce l was' supposed to require 
stove treatment, but fortunately, although the plant needs a warm 
atmosphere in the winter season, it will during the summer months bear 
a considerable reduction of temperature below that originally believed to 
be necessary for its healthy condition, growing luxuriantly in the green¬ 
house or the window of an ordinary apartment, and under certain con¬ 
ditions in the open air. 
As its specific name implies, it is a native of Asia, “ growing through¬ 
out Bengal, in Amboyna, Ceylon, Merqui, Chittagong, Sylhet, on the 
Madras Peninsula, and it is also widely diffused in alpine regions.’’ By 
some writers it is said to be an annual plant; but as it may certainly be 
preserved, in a proper temperature, one or two winters at least, this 
designation can hardly he correct, though it may be raised from seeds and 
treated as an annual. 
Its pale green serrated foliage is not devoid of interest, but its chief 
attraction resides in its charming violet flowers, which are produced pro¬ 
fusely through the summer months up to a very late period. They are of 
a peculiar rich velvety tint, especially in the two lateral lobes of the 
corolla, where it is most intense. After the flower has been some days 
expanded it loses a little of its depth, particularly if exposed to strong 
sunshine. 
It is of the easiest possible propagation, cuttings 2 or 3 inches long, 
planted under a glass in a pot of light moist soil, and placed upon a 
warm window, rooting with even greater readiness than the well known 
Cuphea platycentra, which is one of the quickest-rooting plants with 
which we are acquainted. The plant affects a vegetable soil, and will do 
well in a mixture of peat or leaf mould and sandy loam, with well- 
drained pots of moderate size. 
When grown as a window plant it is best trained upon a flat trellis, 
which from its growth it will speedily cover, and to induce its lateral 
extension the extremity of the shoots should be frequently pinched off, 
or the pot may be suspended, and the branches allowed to trail down¬ 
wards, in which position the elegant habit of the plant, combined with 
its lovely blossoms, renders it a highly interesting object. 
The genus Torenia commemorates the name of Olof Toren, a Swedish 
botanist of some eminence. About six other species have been intro¬ 
duced, one of which, T. scabra, a plant well known to gardeners, may be 
cultivated as a half-hardy annual. T. concolor, introduced a year or 
two before asiatica, is an interesting species, the flowers of which are 
entirely of a deep bluish purple, and, coming from Hong Kong, it is rather 
more hardy than Torenia asiatica.—W. T. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Coedons. —Special attention should be given to the value and utility 
of cordons for all gardens great and small, and preference be given to 
them for many purposes. First of all we should turn to account every 
foot of wall space, especially for Pears, a wall covered with cordon Pear 
trees being now recognised as one of the most useful and attractive features 
of a fruit garden. We altogether prefer single cordons, planting them 
18 inches apart, and training them either vertically, diagonally, or hori¬ 
zontally, as may be necessary ; the first method being most suitable for 
high buildings, the second for walls and fences, the third for the base of 
lofty walls and buildings and for the margins of paths, in which last 
position we have seen them laden with fruit. Another method admir¬ 
ably combining the ornamental and useful is to plant them along each 
