November 26, 1888. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
469 
any_attention, neither do Leeks. Turnips which are not fully 
developed should have a quantity of soil from each side drawn 
op over the bulbs before the soil becomes frozen. Savoys droop 
in the time of frost, but they are rarely injured, and the frost 
generally makes them sweeter. Brussels Sprouts are not easily 
injured, although frost does not benefit them. The leaves are 
sometimes taken almost all off with the alleged object of ex¬ 
posing the sprouts to the sun, but they develope as well without 
this, and the side leaves are of great use in protecting the sprouts 
during severe frost Cabbages droop as much as anything with 
the frost, but they soon recover after a thaw, though in the case of 
a very severe frost young plants are always benefited by having 
the earth drawn up to the stems. Lettuces and JEndive of a large 
size are easily injured, and should either be taken up and packed 
closely together in frames, or be covered where they are growing 
with a thick layer of straw or fern. The lifting plan is the best. 
Young plants for a spring supply are hardier, and they will bear 
much frost without being injured. When they require protec¬ 
tion they should be covered where they are growing, and not 
lifted 
Celery is easily injured, and when once it is softened by the 
frost it will never come right again. When the last earthing-up 
has been given, some fine ashes are put round the stems to the 
depth of 4 inches, and then 12° of frost will not injure it. The 
ashes lie close to the growths, and they keep out frost so much 
better than soil that they ought to be generally used for pro¬ 
tection in winter. Sawdust is also good for this purpose, as the 
frost will hardly penetrate it. Asparagus, Seakale, and Rhubarb 
roots are not easily injured, but severe frost certainly does not 
benefit them, and they should all have a top-dressing of manure 
before the frost hardens the ground. Globe Artichokes shrivel 
more quickly than any vegetable, and the only way to save them 
is to place a comfortable collar of long manure round them 
before the temperature falls to SO 3 . The majority of herbs are 
quite hardy, and although we spread manure over the surface of 
the Mint, Tarragon, &c., in winter, it is more to strengthen the 
growths than to prevent injury from frost. Parsley is very 
hardy, but shrivels with a few degrees of frost, and it is an 
advantage to treat it in the same way as the Lettuce. When 
Parsley is plentiful in summer large quantities should be 
gathered and dried for winter use, as for everything, excepting 
garnishing, it is just as useful dry as green. The China Rose 
Radish will bear much frost, and we only dig and store them 
when we see that the ground is becoming very hard. Spinach 
shrivels to a great extent, but when thaw comes it expands again, 
and if the leaves chance to be killed the roots will always pro¬ 
duce fresh growth in spring.— A Kitchen Gardener. 
PLANT-GROUPING FOR EFFECT. 
(Continued from page 450.) 
We may now turn to flowering plants, which are, perhaps, of greater 
vatfety even than foliage plants, yet, generally speaking, a few form a 
special feature, and are more effective than a greatnumberof different kinds 
of plants. For instance, three to five plants of Anthurium Schertzerianum 
or A. Andreanum would at once overbalance a vast number of other 
flowering plants. One point to be guarded against is not to use too 
freely plants that happen to be in season, such, for instance, at spring 
shows, as Spinel japonica or bulbous flowering plants, or in autumn of 
Vallota purpurea. Rather endeavour to have choice or out-of-season 
plants, therefore forethought is needed in bringing forward or retarding 
such plants. In spring groups small Azaleas may be usefully employed, 
and perhaps two or three small well-bloomed Camellias, Dielytra spec- 
tabilis sparingly, early Pelargoniums of the Regal section, while if small 
plants of Clerodendron Balfourianum can be had in bloom they will help 
considerably. 
Summer groups must demand most attention. It often happens that 
some gardeners during those months are very heavily handicapped 
compared with others, and hence the need of either giving the object 
special attention or staying at home, as not many employers care for 
second or third prizes any more than gardeners themselves ; and although 
a gardener may be at a discount in point of convenience, culture and 
taste may do much to make up the difference. In this way, in an estab¬ 
lishment where the gardener does the major part of the inside work 
himself, he gains something upon the gardener, who having more out¬ 
side charges, has to leave much in charge of others, who it cannot be 
expected, as a rule, to be so much interested as himself. 
Turning to the plants most useful at this season, Anthuriums should re¬ 
ceive attention, but I may remark here that, in my opinion, exhibiting 
plants in pairs must be carefully avoided. It may not matter in the case of 
some minor plants, but when they are striking care must be exercised. As 
a distinct change of tint nothing is more effective than a number of Statice 
Butcheri or S. profusa, for not having too much foliage they may be 
arranged quite level with the groundwork, while the spikes will not 
crowd other relieving plants; in fact, to be really effective there should 
be three or four separate heights all standing clear of each other. Ixoras 
in variety are indispensable for rich yet quiet tone. Ericas are valuable 
in every way, also such Orchids as can easily be worked in with¬ 
out crowding the groundwork. Kalosanthes, with a few fresh heads, 
follow among light Palms. Boigainvilleas, carying a few spikes in, say, 
6 or 7 inch pots, some 3 feet high, give good relief. In the back part 
Clerodendron Balfourianum, as mentioned before, is extremely valuable. 
A very telling plant, rarely seen to advantage in groups, is Clero¬ 
dendron fallax ; these grown from seed sown almost any time during the 
year make fine plants. Plants one year old, cut down in January in 
heat, soon make good plants, and continue blooming from May to 
November, and nothing is more striking. A few Celosia pyramidalis may 
be employed if very choice in strain ; a few plants of Lilium auratum and 
speciosum render the outside more bold, while L. Harrisi is invaluable; 
Cockscombs also, such as the Glasgow Dwarf strain, about half grown, 
placed crosswise, a few are a good change ; Tuberous Begonias, too, are 
useful when they travel safely, as also are Gloxinias when of a good strain 
and fresh. Regarding this point, local exhibitors have some advantage over 
strangers, as little choice additions can be made at home, whereas exhi¬ 
bitors from a distance would not venture them. Ornamental Grasses and 
Rhodanthe Manglesii are useful ; another effective feature being pro¬ 
duced by Zinnia elegans from seed sown about Easter in a warm frame, 
and a few of each colour placed into 4 or 5 inch pots will make a fine 
display early in July, and having little foliage maybe arranged where 
almost any other plant would be crowded, and they impart a rich tint 
that is not to be had in any other flower. Two or three single spikes of 
Eucharis amazonica on plants in small pots, or a spike of Pancratium 
have a good effect at any season. Should it be a table of plants, as at 
some shows, a certain distance from the floor, Isolepis gracilis, Ficus 
rcpens, more straggling Panicum, Tradescantia, or a few small plants of 
Cissus discolor, may be required in addition for groups arranged on the 
greensward. 
I may repeat an expression which I have often used, that unless a 
gardener is able to tastefully arrange a group of good plants he is not com¬ 
petent to superintend laying out and effectively furnishing lawns and 
shrubberies. Some may differ from me on this head, but such is my 
experience.—L athyrus. 
We are informed on good authority that Sir Joseph D. Hooker has 
resigned his office of Director of the Royal Gardens, Kew, which he has 
held since 1865 with so much credit to himself and advantage to the 
public service. Sir Joseph succeeded his father, Sir William Jackson 
Hooker, who had administered the office since 1841, Sir Joseph’s resig¬ 
nation will take effect from Monday, the 30th inst. No successor has yet 
been appointed. 
- A mounted photograph of the Hull Chrysanthemum 
Challenge Vase has been sent to us. It is, we are informed, the work 
of a lady amateur (Miss Jameson), a sister of the energetic Secretary of 
the Hull Chrysanthemum Society. We congratulate Miss Jameson on 
her admirable production, which is “ quite a work of art.” 
- We learn that Lady Louisa Rolle of Bicton, Devonshire, 
died on the 20th inst., in her ninety-first year. Bicton has long been a 
celebrated garden, and Lady Rolle for many years was an ardent 
patroness of horticulture, giving especial attention to the formation of a 
fine collection of Conifers. 
-The Rev. G. Henslow has for some time been engaged in 
experiments and observations on the Influence of Light ,on Tran¬ 
spiration in Plants, and it is expected that he will communicate the 
principal results he has obtained at the meeting of the Linnean Society 
on December 3rd. 
- We learn that three members of the Ghent Horticultural 
Society have been appointed Chevaliers de l’Ordre de Leopold— 
namely, MM. Ad. d’Haene, C. Spae-Vander Meulen, and A. Peeters. A 
banquet in honour of these gentlemen takes place to-day (Thursday) in 
the Hotel de la Poste, Ghent. 
- Mr. A. Young sends the following note on Cordon Pear 
Trees at Worth Park, Crawley “In the kitchen garden at the 
above place is a wall upwards of 430 feet in length planted with cordons, 
and I have never seen trees look healthier or more promising, and they 
are creditable alike to Mr. Glyn, the gardener, and to Messrs. Cheal and 
Sons, from whom the trees were purchased. The varieties are a selection 
of the best and Bergamotte d’Esperen is wonderfully fine.” 
