December 10, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
515 
apex of span, so that the wind will pass clear through instead of 
being directed into the house, as is the case when the opening is 
all on one side, and it then acts similarly to a lantern ventilation, 
which in my opinion is the best of all. This lantern system allows 
of the hot vitiated air escaping without danger of an inrush of 
cold, as in a wind it can blow clean through it, as there is nothing 
to divert it from its course, having in this respect a great advantage 
over the sliding light, which allows the cold air to be driven directly 
upon the foliage, the back wall in a lean-to directing it inwards, 
and similarly in a span when the openings are on alternate lights 
on opposite sides of the house. 
I have reserved alluding to the front or side ventilation, as I 
only resort to it as most do through sheer necessity, or, in other 
words, as a means of preventing the temperature rising too high. 
It seems to me that whatever ventilation we have should be by the 
upper part of the roof only, or where the heat accumulates in a 
degree unduly affecting the inmates, which surely could be effected 
by increasing the provision for top ventilation, and if necessary 
Temoving the roof lights. That side light ventilation is needed 
under our present system I readily grant, and that it is useful with 
the present system of arranging the pipes in front or along the 
sides of the house is not to be gainsaid, especially when the air 
admitted is made to pass over the heated surface and reach the 
plants beneath them, or passing gently to them in a considerably 
modified form to what it enters, which is a very different thing to 
admitting it directly upon the plants. Some have gone to the ex¬ 
tent of having no top ventilation, having it solely at the sides, as 
■was the case with orchard houses of the original type, and which 
are fast becoming as obsolete as the system of culture which called 
them into existence. A current of air passing through a house is 
the best possible means of promoting evaporation, of hardening 
and ripening, and of inducing attacks of red spider—the most 
baneful of all insects the horticulturist has to contend with under 
glass. 
Whatever the system of ventilation adopted, it should be of 
such a kind as to allow of a change of air without a depression of 
temperature, and it should also be ample so as to prevent the 
temperature rising too high for the successful culture of whatever 
fruit or plant the structure may be devoted, and it ought to be 
perfectly under control. I am convinced that a perfect system of 
ventilation is to be found in the direction of moveable roof-lights, 
commencing at the apex and downwards by degrees as practice finds 
expedient until the whole is withdrawn, and which gives me an 
opportunity of again referring to the advisability of having the 
roof-lights of all fruit-forcing houses moveable, so that they can be 
withdrawn at the will of the cultivator. — G. Abbey. 
(To be continued.) 
GLADIOLUS COLVILLI ALBA. 
Among hardy bulbous plants I know of none that can compare 
Tvitli this in general usefulness. As a permanent pot plant it is 
unequalled, and its chaste and elegant pure white blossoms make 
it a fit companion for even the choicest exotic flowers; indeed, 
it must ere long be among the indispensables in all floral arrange¬ 
ments. It is one of those plants which, owing to its erect habit, 
occupies but little room in the forcing department, and from 
which a maximum amount of flowers may be obtained in a 
minimum of space, a fact which should have some weight with 
those who grow cut flowers in quantity, and especially so where 
space is limited. Unlike the family to which it belongs, it will 
if established in pots withstand forcing with impunity, which 
considerably increases its value as a pot plant. Among a few 
nurserymen who grow cut flowers in quantity it is well known 
and appreciated. Not so, however, with gardeners generally, as 
comparatively few seem to know little or nothing respecting it. 
This season I have grown a quantity in pots, and they have 
elicited the admiration of all who have seen them. It is of 
extremely easy culture, which is another point favouring its 
extensive cultivation It may be that it is not grown so exten¬ 
sively or so frequently met with as its merits entitle it to be 
from its being regarded in the light of Gladiolus generally which 
are not hardy. With this, however, the case is different, since 
both the typical plant and the variety now under notice is per¬ 
fectly hardy -that is, if withstanding 22° of frost without injury 
may be considered such. And not only is there this distinction 
in its complete hardiness, for it is nearly evergreen, and is more 
or less active all the year round if allowed to remain undisturbed 
in the open ground. When this fact is fully realised we shall see 
it grown in quantity, and those who once ta^e it in hand will 
not lightly throw it aside. It may be well here to remind 
those who would give this lovely plant a trial, that if ordered 
early it caD be supplied with Dutch and other bulbs. It must 
not, however, be left to order with the hybrids of Gandavensis, 
for it is possible to have Colvilli and its forms in flower almost 
before the ground is fit for planting outside the general 
collection. 
A word of warning by the way. I have been extolling some¬ 
what high a plant of sterling merit, and without this word of 
warning those unacquainted with it may on first receiving it be 
disappointed with it. Its conns are about equal in size to those 
of a good-sized Crocus, which is so different from the forms of 
Gandavensis that it has caused many to regard it as mere rubbish, 
a id I know instances where those receiving it for the first time 
never expected flowering plants It differs again in another and 
important particular, hence the floriferousness which so charac¬ 
terises it. Instead of one break issuing from these comparatively 
small corms, it is not unfrequent for it to throw up from three 
to six, depending of course on their individual strength, and 
seldom less than three, each of which bears a spike with from six 
to ten of its satiny white blossoms, elegant in the extreme. 
As it was intended to keep a good number in pots, the whole 
of our stock in pots were shifted into larger ones when making 
free growth, so as to give increased strength to the new corms. 
When these had finished flowering and growth matured they 
were placed in a warm sunny position to ripen Towards the 
middle or end of October a portion was introduced into slight 
heat, as I am inclined to believe that the earliest of this year 
may be had in flower with a little management and without any 
undue forcing from Christmas onwards. With fx-ame culture 
and slight warmth it will, if potted eaxfly, flower for Eastei*, and 
when established in pots and inti’oduced in slight warmth during 
October it may, I think, be had at a time when such plants are 
of great value. Strangely enough the majority of our white 
midwinter flowers ai’e plants of extreme hardiness, and whose 
natural flowei’ing comes with late spring or early summer, and 
if in the charming plant under notice another may be added so 
much the better. 
For pot culture use one-half rich loam, to which add leaf soil 
and peat in equal pai’ts, making the whole rather sandy. It 
delights in a fi-ee, rich, open soil, and should never be planted in 
cold, heavy, or retentive soils, for in these the results will be 
anything but satisfactoi’y. Place four corms in a 5 inch pot, and 
if the flowers are not required for cutting the plants will form an 
attractive feature dotted here and thei’eamong the occupants of the 
conservatoi’y. In the open gx-oundit flowers from July to the end 
of August, and if vai'ious situations are chosen for it its flowering 
season outdoors may be somewhat lengthened Borne of those 
grown in pots this season for indoor decoration might with 
advantage be planted in the hardy herbaceous or mixed border, 
a sunny and warm border always preferred. Plant it fi-om 3 to 
4 inches deep, and if the weather be very severe it will be helpful 
to it to mulch the ground with shoi’t stable manure or spent 
hops. Its rapid inci'ease, too, is worthy of note when under good 
cultivation, for it will double and even triple itself in a 
season, and if allowed to l’emain in the gi-ound undisturbed for 
three years the crop will be a surprising one. Some considerable 
expei-ience with this lovely plant in the open gx-ound and in pots 
has convinced me that it is one of the most valuable of hardy 
bulbous plants For growing in the open border plant in eai'ly 
autumn. They need but little room for development and where 
space is limited may be planted en*masse. With the existing 
facilities of the parcels post a hundred or so may be transmitted. 
—J. H. E. 
SCARLET RUNNER BEANS. 
Having had a capital supply of these this season, I have been led 
to make a few remarks about them, in the hope that they may prove 
useful to those who have been less fortunate during such a scorching 
summer. Being of an accommodating nature, I am inclined to think suffi¬ 
cient attention is not always given to render them so productive as they 
otherwise would be were a little more attention bestowed upon them. 
My main crop 1 always grow in a quarter of the garden which is partly 
shaded by trees, which, no doubt, has had a little influence for good on 
the crop this year. But I attribute more to the preparation of the ground 
for the rows, which is done by making trenches 5 feet apart, about the 
same as for Celery, the manure employed to be thoroughly decayed. 
I sow a double row of Beans in these trenches, placing the Beans 
9 inches apart, which are then covered with 3 or 4 inches of soil from the 
sides of the trench. When of sufficient height they are earthed as high 
a3 the seed leaves and then staked. This earthing fills the trench to 
within 4 inches of the top, thus leaving ample space for water to be 
poured in when needed, and which must soak straight down to the roots. 
In hot dry weather I give them a thorough watering once a week, first 
using clear water, and then liquid manure. Nothing exhausts this crop 
so much as to allow the pods to remain on the plants to become old. 
They are better picked, even if thrown to the rubbish heap, than to 
remain on the plants. That I hope, however, would be a last resource, 
