December 10, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
625 
lime or soot. Birds, snail*, or other pests may eat the points of the young 
plants before anyone is aware of it. When they are fairly up sift some 
powdered ashes ani put a thick strip of these along each side of the 
plants. Few snails or slugs will venture over to the plants then, and we 
have sometimes thought they succeeded better with the ashes around 
them than soil. Probably the ashes are drier and warmer. Where 
it was neglected to sow Peas in November they may still be put in, giving 
them rich soil and a warm dry situation. 
Tomatoes. —Our old plants have been all cleared out, the green fruits 
have been cut and hung in a warm house to ripen, and these will keep up 
a supply till the new year. Cuttings in pots should he kept in a cool 
house and near the glass. Protect them from frost, and they may be 
potted and placed in more heat as soon as the turn of the year comes. 
Those who have not provided a stock of plants from cuttings and wish to 
begin with a batch of plauts early in January should sow seed at once. 
Fill a number of 3-inch pots with rich soil, make a little hole in the centre 
of the soil with the forefinger, drop two seeds into each, cover them, place 
them in a temperature of 60°, do not water the soil until the plants are 
seen, which will be in a week or so after sowing, and by the first or 
second week in January there will be plenty of joung Tomato plants. 
The object of putting two seeds into each is in case of failure, and when 
both grow one should be pulled up when quite small. Much sturdier 
plants are produced in this way than when they are raised in a crowd and 
transplanted afterwards. 
Forcing Seakale.— The flavour of Seakale is always very much 
influenced by the way in which it is forced. Sometimes it tastes very 
strongly of manure. Some of the finest flavoured produce we ever 
secured of it at this season was forced in the following manner : The 
rows were 3 feet apart, and the soil to the width of 18 inches was dug 
out from the vacant space between the rows and banked up over the 
crowns of the plants in much the same way as Celery is earthed. The 
trenches were a lit le over 1 foot in depth, and they were filled up level 
with the top of the ridge with hot manure, This soon induced the 
growths to push forth strongly, and the soil which they were growing in, 
and had been put on the top, blanched them well. This is a simple way of 
growing Seakale at this season, and it is very satisfactory when the main 
point is considered—viz., flavour. 
Asparagus. —We find the roots of this force very freely this autumn. 
The crowns were well matured, and the produce is very fine. Those who 
have been waiting to give the roots a good rest before forcing may begin 
at once with every certainty of securing a good return if their roots are 
strong and healthy. 
Rhubarb.— This may also be introduced to the forcing quarters in 
quantity, and if it is forced where it has been growing by putting empty 
casks upside down over the crowns and coveiing with a hotbed, see that 
there is plenty of ventilation at the top of the cask to allow the steam to 
escape, as if this is confined it will cause the young growths to decay and 
there will be no Rhubarb. 
Mushrooms from Cow Manure. —It may interest many who are 
sometimes in a fix to understand what to make Mushroom beds with that 
cow manure may be used successfully. Not far from where we write 
a large bed was formed two months ago with cow droppings and 
short straw from the cowshed, and for some time past this bed has been 
supplying Mushrooms which in size, colour, or flavour were all that could 
be desired. 
Spinach.— Any of this with large succulent leaves is sure to sufftr if 
severe frost comes, and our plan is to use as much of it at present as 
possible and save the more hardy vegetables for further on. We have 
sometimes had better winter Spinach than we are using just now, as the 
very dry weather experienced when the seed was sown and the young 
plants were coming up, checked them so much that they still bear traces 
of it. Some may be inclined to allow such crops as this to become weedy 
under the impression that this is protection, but it only ruins the plants. 
Old Crops.— Many of these may now be cleared from the ground. 
The whole of our Carrot ground has been cleared and dug roughly 
up. Beetroots have been all stored and the ground dug. All the 
autumn Cauliflower stumps have been cleared off, and the land limed 
and dug over very roughly. Should the weather remain open for another 
week every particle of vacant land in our garden will have been rough- 
dug, and should frost come on later, as it is almost sure to do, its 
mellowing influence will be very advantageous. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs.— Earliest-forced Frees in Pots. —The trees in houses closed 
in November with fermenting leaves in the pits will now be showing 
signs of growth by the swelling of the terminal buds, and the gradual 
bursting torth of the embryo fruit. The roots that were cut, back will 
a!-o, under the influence of the genial heat obtained from the ferment- 
ings material, be sending fresh feeders through the new compost placed 
about the pots. When this is the case the fermenting materials should be 
examined, a ,a if the heat does not exceed 75° they may be trodden down 
round the pedestals and bases of the pots, preparatory to the introduction 
of a fresh supply from the reserve heap, which should be under a roof 
of some kind. At any rate, all materials used for bottom heat or plung¬ 
ing purposes should be properly worked and warmed before being taken 
in. Take care that the heat about the pots does not exceed 70° to 75°. 
The heat and moisture given off by the fermenting materials will greatly 
facilitate forcing operations by softening and greatly reducing the amount 
of fire heat, until we have a change to milder nights. The external tem¬ 
perature will have much to do with the internal temperature. On cold 
nights it should fall to 50°, and 55° by artificial means in the daytime will 
be sufficient, with a rise of 10° from sun heat. Syringe the trees and walls 
with tepid water on fine mornings, and again early in the afterroon or 
about 2 P.M., but with the moisture arising from the fermenting materials 
there will rarely be need of more until the trees begin to push fresh 
foliage. Keep the glass clean and free from condensed moisture by 
ventilating on all favourable occasions. 
Succession Houses. —If the pruning is still in arrear, lose no time in 
getting the work finished. Cut back or entirely remove old spurs, and thin 
out the least promising shoots that have reached the extremity of the trellis, 
to make room for free growth and full development of wood and foliage. 
As the Fig delights in heat, moisture, and good living, with plenty of 
light and a free circulation of air, the house should be well heated, be 
light and well ventilated, and generous treatment accorded, otherwise it 
is the most insipid of fruits. Thorough cleanliness is necessary to success, 
therefore spare no pains in cleansing the trees, woodwork, and walls, and 
paint if necessary. If brown scale has been troublesome syriDge with 
petroleum at the rate of a wineglass to three gallons of water, keeping it 
well mixed with the water whilst it is being applied. If applied with a 
brush it may be applied much stronger, or at the rate of a wineglass to 
a gallon of water, at which strength it will destroy all insects it comes in 
contact with. 
Cucumbers. —The night temperature should be kept steady at 60° to 
65°, and the day at 70° to 75°, being very careful in the admission of air, 
though a little should be given so as to clear the glass of condensed moisture, 
and give the plants the benefit of all the light possible, condensed moisture 
obstructing the light to a serious extent. It is hardly necessary to point 
to the desirability of keeping the temperature from being unduly lowered 
by frequent opening of the door, as is frequently done several times a day 
in severe weather, and which could be obviated by having the ther¬ 
mometer in such position that it can be seen from outside. A mat sus¬ 
pended over the door is also useful in preventing an inrush of cold when 
the door is opened. Remove all superfluous fruits from the plants im¬ 
mediately they show, and tie up all shoots to the trellis as they require it. 
Encourage vigorous growth, on which stopping should be moderately 
practised, otherwise very little stopping will now be required. Should 
mildew appear dust the affected leaves with flowers of sulphur, and main¬ 
tain a somewhat dry atmosphere. For red spider sponge with softsoapy 
water, and if green or black aphides attack the plants dust with tobacco 
powder, or if fumigation be resorted to it must be done with great care 
and judgment. 
Prepare some Oak or Beech leaves with a third of stable dung by 
throwing into a heap and damping if necessary, turning over when they 
have become warmed through outside to inside, and watering if necessary 
so as to secure an even and thorough fermentation of the materials, with 
which to make a hotbed at the end of this or the beginning of the new 
year, to raise Cucumber and Melon plants from seed, and subsequently to 
make beds for planting them in. 
Peaches and Nectarines.— Earliest-forced House.— The blossom 
buds will now be swelling, the trees having been given the treatment ad¬ 
vised in our last calendar, the temperature should be slightly increased in 
the daytime, especially when the weather is mild or marking 50° outside 
with a soft wind blowing. The heat should be turned on in the morning, 
so as to raise the temperature to 55°, and allow a rather free circulation 
of air, and with sun the temperature may rise to 60° or 65°. The heat 
should be turned off at night, so as to allow the temperature to fail to 
between 45° and 50°, and on cold nights it may fall 5° lower without any 
disadvantage. Avoid a dry atmosphere, especially from fire heat ; gentle 
syringing the trees backwards and forwards with tepid water is of great 
benefit. If fermenting materials have been introduced a little extra 
attention should be given them in turning and additions which will 
impart activity to the surface roots. Give attention to the roots, and if at 
all dry a good application of tepid water will render the soil thoroughly 
moist. If the soil has left the walls, as it sometimes does during the 
resting period, it should be well rammed down, so as to make the water 
enter by the surface, otherwise it will run off without permeating the 
soil. 
Succession Houses. —Complete the pruning and cleansing in houses 
intended to be closed for forcing soon or at the new year. Lay in the 
wood sufficiently thin to admit of the full development of the foliage, as 
fine fruit of good colour and flavour cannot be obtained where the young 
wood and leaves are deprived of the benefit of air and light. Keep all 
doors and ventilators open in all but actual frost; even this will not do 
any harm, but structures of this kind are often filled with plants, and in 
the anxiety to save these the lights are frequently closed when they should 
be open, and imperceptibly, but surely, the blossom buds swell, the idea 
of serving two masters being that neither do well—the plants are starved, 
and yet not starved enough to insure perfect rest to the trees, so that 
between alternate excitement and its opposite they receive a check, and 
if the trees do not cast the buds the blossom is weak, and sets very badly. 
It would be much better to have the roof-lights off altogether, and keep 
them off until the time arrives for closing the house. No frost will injure 
the trees provided the wood is ripe. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Amaryllises. —Few plants are more useful for decoration than these, 
and when in flower they are most effective when their large brilliantly 
coloured flowers are elevated well above dwarf flowering plants. The 
habit of these plants and their slender flower stems render them most 
suitable for this purpose, and a few with variously coloured flowers add a 
choiceness and beauty to a collection of flowering plants which they 
