532 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 17, 1885. 
condition, though well-grown examples are valuable additions 
to any exhibition. 
Nearly equal in numbers are the Tuberous Begonias 
(nineteen), both single and double forms from several raisers 
having been found sufficiently distinct, notwithstanding the 
great advance that has been made in recent years. The 
general improvement has, however, been so marked that 
probably certificated varieties will decrease in number each 
year, especially since it has been proved that strains of seed 
in each of the principal colours can be obtained true. 
Of Gladiolus eighteen have been honoured, chiefly of the 
gandavensis type, but a few forms of G. Lemoinei have been 
added, and these will soon constitute an interesting group of 
free-flowering hardy varieties that will be duly appreciated 
in many gardens. A dozen each of Dahlias and Amaryllises 
have gained favourable notice, while Cinerarias, Carnations, 
and greenhouse Rhododendrons are equal with ten certificated 
varieties each. The last-named include some extremely 
beautiful forms, and it is surprising how much they are 
being improved in the hands of skilful hybridisers and 
cultivators—the colours are being more diversified, the 
flowers enlarged, and, what is of still more importance, the 
habit is being rendered dwarfer and more compact. This 
point cannot receive too much attention, for the chief failing 
of these Rhododendrons has hitherto been the tendency to 
become straggling. 
Pelargoniums and Roses have been well represented 
amongst the novelties, and nine each were certificated, but to 
the former must be added four of the much-admired Ivy¬ 
leaved varieties, all double forms, the flowers of which are 
found so useful for cutting and arranging either in bouquets 
or vases. One of the zonal varieties, Volonte Nationale 
Album, deserves special notice, since it has obtained no less 
than four certificates this year from different societies. It is 
encouraging to note that six of the Roses are of English 
origin, one of which, Mrs. John Laing, has obtained many 
honours. 
Many other useful and beautiful plants have received 
official recommendation to public notice, but they need not be 
referred to specially here. It is, however, remarkable what a 
preponderance of flowering plants figure amongst the novel¬ 
ties, those distinguished as “fine-foliage plants,” being com¬ 
paratively few ; even including Ferns, Sarracenias, and 
Nepenthes, they only number twenty-two, indicating a great 
change in popular taste. 
KEEPING GRAPES. 
It is not difficult to maintain a supply of ripe Grapes the whole 
year round if the accommodation for growing them is equal to 
the demand. Not unfrequently are the fruits of such late varie¬ 
ties as Alicantes and Lady Downe’s kept in good condition for 
eight months after they are ripe, and placed on the table with 
Black Hamburghs and other early-forced Grapes towards the 
end of May. It is surprising how fresh and plump they will 
keep until that time, or even into the following month if desired. 
The length of time that late Grapes will keep fresh, however, 
depends upon the time they are thoroughly ripe and the treat¬ 
ment they receive during the last stages of development If 
ripened by the end of September under moderately cool airy 
conditions, they will generally keep well, provided the atmo¬ 
sphere of the house in which they are to hang is properly re¬ 
gulated. It is a great mistake to ripen Grapes in October by the 
aid oi strong fire heat, for this is not only detrimental to their 
keeping satisfactorily, but it tells materially on the crop the 
following season, and perhaps proves disastrous to the Yines 
if persisted in for a few years. 
When the Grapes are ripe by the time named, and under the 
conditions most suitable, they give comparatively little trouble 
a ® “Y as keeping them is concerned, until the damp foggy days 
of November set in. Even light irregularities in the tempera¬ 
ture and the atmospheric conditions of the house do not prove 
so injurious to them as would be the case towards the close of 
the month or the early part of the next. It is wise to maintain 
a regular temperature as nearly as possible, being guided by ex¬ 
ternal conditions, and ventilate the house judiciously during that 
trymg month. No doubt the most critical period for Grapes is 
from the time the foliage commences to fade until it has fallen 
from the Vines. During this stage the berries are most likely to 
be affected by mould, as they will be quickly if any injudicious 
course is followed in the regulation of the atmosphere. 
The idea so generally prevalent, that every plant must be 
removed from the houses during the period named, is a mistake, 
for bedding and other plants can be kept in them without the 
slightest injury to the Grapes or Yines. If such plants can be 
acommodated elsewhere so much the better, but large numbers 
who may be required to keep a house of late Grapes are not so 
favourably situated. We are generally compelled, by the want 
of space elsewhere, to keep a large stock of Selaginellas, small 
Ferns, and other plants for decoration in these structures, and 
they are worse than Pelargoniums, as these require but little 
water now. A little more care is, however, needed in ventilating 
the house. 
In damp localities, where the atmosphere is saturated with 
moisture, and dull foggy days are the rule, it isvery difficult tokeep 
the Grapes in the house with Ferns that require to be constantly 
watered. Once or twice during the past few years we have been 
compelled to remove such plants from the house, but this has only 
been necessary when long spells of bad weather have been ex¬ 
perienced. The difficulty that arises under such circumstances 
is to remove the moisture that condenses on the surface of the 
berries, which may be effected by keeping the temperature of the 
house a few degrees warmer than is usually necessary. The dull 
appearance of the berries at once shows this condensed moisture, 
and if immediately removed the Grapes can be preserved. 
The temperature of the house in which the Grapes are hang¬ 
ing should be kept from 55° to 60° at night, and from 60° to 65° 
during the day, the heat being regulated by the external atmo¬ 
sphere, whether mild or cold, if the house is full of plants it may 
be necessary on some occasions, even during cold weather, to 
maintain the temperature at the highest figures given, as well as 
when damp and foggy. If the house is empty and the border 
has been mulched or covered to prevent evaporation from the 
surface, even a lower temperature of 5° or more by day, as well 
as by night, may safely be practised- Fire heat in such cases 
only is needed to keep the atmosphere sufficiently dry to pre¬ 
vent moisture from being condensed on the berries. During 
sharp frosty weather, even when no plants are in the house, the 
temperature should be kept moderately high. 
Although the regulation of the heat, according to circum¬ 
stances, is very important in the preservation of Grapes, it is no 
more essential than the ventilation of the structure. The idea 
which formerly existed, and is not even now obsolete, of admit¬ 
ting a little air and heat daily, irrespective of external conditions, 
cannot be too strongly condemned, for if persisted in the Grapes 
are certain to decay. When the air outside is moist the venti¬ 
lators should be kept closed, and a steady heat maintained in 
the bouse, regulated by the amount of moisture inside. When 
the outside atmosphere is dry every advantage should be taken 
to ventilate the house liberally. 
Care is also necessary in applying water to the roots of the 
Vines. If none is given from the time the Grapes are ripe 
until they are cut from the Yines the roots may suffer, and the 
Grapes commence shrivelling. If the border needs water it can 
be applied at any time until the end of October, but afterwards 
a favourable opportunity should be selected when the atmosphere 
outside is dry, so that the moisture inside can be expelled by 
free ventilation and the use of fire heat. Watering the border, 
however, should if possible be avoided during that critical 
period when the foliage is decaying After the leaves have 
fallen water may be given if it is needed. The roots of late Vines 
are inside and out, and we have often experienced very wet 
weather during the time the foliage is dying, but no difficulty 
has been experienced in keeping the fruit Far more harm is 
likely to result from a superabundance of moisture in the atmo¬ 
sphere, which is condensed on the berries, than by heavy rains 
or watering the Yines at their roots. 
Many allow the Grapes to hang upon the Yines as long as 
possible after the foliage has fallen, but this is a mistake; the 
Grapes will keep in a dry airy room just as well as they will upon 
the rods. .Allowing the fruit to remain upon the Vines until 
February, or when the sap rises, only imposes an unnecessary 
additional burden upon them; they are liable to bleed when 
pruned, and if this does no harm it certainly does no good, it 
also robs them of that season of complete rest which is so 
essential to success. The sooner the fruit is cut after the 
new year the better, and in every case where practicable we 
strongly advise this to be done, then the Yines can be pruned, 
kept cool afterwards, and thus have a good period of rest. 
After Grapes are cut from the Yines they will keep perfectly 
1 well in any dry airy room if the wood from which the bunches 
