December 17, 1885. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
515 
In the spring following the plants blooming inside—say in March 
or April—shake the old roots partly out of the soil and plant them 
about 3 feet apart in an open position in the garden, previously 
digging the ground well; but unless the soil be of a very poor 
description it is not wise to add much manure, as this induces 
strong and consequently too sappy growth. It is much better to 
add some fresh soil around the roots when planting, such as refuse 
soil from the potting bench or the materials of spent Mushroom 
beds, treading the soil firmly about the plants, which induces a 
stocky growth. Should the weather be very dry during the summer 
give water freely and apply a mulching of decayed manure, which 
dispenses with the necessity of watering so frequently when other 
matters press so heavily. Do not allow many shoots to extend 
during the summer for flowering, but only sufficient to prove the 
variety is true to name—an essential point, as many growths weaken 
the plant somewhat and overcrowd the young shoots, thus drawing 
them up weakly in the autumn. Should the weather not be severe 
during November and December good cuttings may be had, but 
should these be injured by frost the trouble entailed in planting 
out and attention during the summer is to a great extent lost. If 
they once get frozen they are crippled, and do not quickly recover. 
They can no doubt be sheltered from light frost with straw or 
litter ; but I do not think the advantage derived by this system is 
adequate to the trouble entailed, as a severe frost is always likely 
to occur in December, and before the growths recover from its 
effects the best season for striking the cuttings is gone. Some 
varieties, notably of the Christine family, do well under this treat¬ 
ment ; but they invariably produce good cuttings freely in the 
ordinary way when blooming inside. 
A much better method of producing sturdy cuttings of varieties 
that are shy in throwing up suckers, or in the case of new varieties 
of which the stock is limited, is to strike the side shoots that are 
often produced in excess during May and June when the plants are 
grown for large blooms. Instead of throwing these growths or 
suckers away, as is usually done, insert them singly in small pots in 
sandy soil, plunge in a gentle bottom heat, keeping them close and 
shaded till rooted, then remove to a cool frame. As soon as the 
pots are filled with roots shift the plants into 4 or 5-inch pots, 
using moderately rich soil, pressing it down hard, and short stocky 
growths so desirable for good cuttings will be produced. Stand the 
plants out of doors in an open position, allowing one stem only to 
extend. This will attain a height of 2 to 4 feet according to the 
variety, and produce one bloom. Such plants are useful for 
decoration on the side stages of the conservatory or elsewhere. Cut 
them down rather early after blooming, and they will be certain 
to produce good suckers. I find that they always throw up more 
freely when grown in small pots in the manner described than when 
grown in the orthodox way for affording exhibition blooms, as no 
doubt the constant removal of the suckers during the summer 
treatment weakens the plants for the after-growth of cuttings. 
This does not occur when grown as above indicated. As the primary 
object is not the production of large flowers, but sturdy shoots for 
propagation, this is a system which I can strongly recommend as 
being certain to insure success. 
Another system, sometimes practised by nurserymen who require 
cuttings in large numbers, is the following:—After cutting down the 
stems the roots are partly shaken out of the soil and planted thickly 
together in heated pits, where they can have a little bottom as well 
as top heat, keeping the plants close to the glass. In this manner 
space is economised by the removal of the large pots from the 
houses, but in private gardens heated pits are seldom so numerous 
that they can be devoted to this purpose. Gfardeners, as a rale, 
have to adapt themselves to more economic principles, and cuttings 
forced in heat are not so good as those grown naturally in cool 
houses from the first.—E. Molyneux, Swanmore Park , Bishop’s 
Waltham. 
(To be continued.) 
CULTURE OF LISIANTHUS RUSSELLIANUS. 
A CORRESPONDENT —“C. It., Ipswich "—desires information respect¬ 
ing the culture of this handsome plant, and as it is undeservedly neglected 
now we give an illustration of a specimen grown some years ago by a 
skilful cultivator. The cultural particulars are condensed from those 
which appeared in this Journal with the cut. 
This beautiful and much-esteemed plant was introduced into this 
country in 1835 from Mexico. Being found to be capable of producing 
ripe seed in abundance, a large stock of plants was scon diffused among 
our best cultivators, who hailed it with delight. Nevertheless, strange to 
say, its successful cultivation, except in a few instances, still remains a 
desideratum—a fact amply proved by the paucity of really well-cultivated 
plants produced at our great metropolitan exhibitions. 
Having been somewhat more successful than some of my neighbours in 
growing and flowering this plant, truly magnificent when well managed, 
I will give my plan, which is as follows :—The seed is sown early in 
spring, first filling a 6-inch pot half full of potsherds, over which is placed 
1 inch of sphagnum mo;s, then filling the pot within 1 inch of the t )p 
with rich light sandy soil. When all is pressed down equal and firm, and 
a smooth surface made with the bottom of a small pot, sow the seed and 
cover it very slightly with dry white sand. Cover the pots with bell - 
glasses, and place them on a shelf in a shady part of an early vinery, 
keeping the surface constantly moist by pouring water on the outside of 
the glasses. As soon as the plants appear air is admitted, and in¬ 
creased as they advance in growth. When sufficiently strong they are 
pricked out into small pots, having the same drainage, moss, and mixture 
as the seed-pots, and are again shaded with hand or bell-glasses until the 
plants become established. In three weeks or a month they require to be 
placed singly into small pots, and encouraging their growth as much as 
possible by placing them in a shady part of either a vinery or Melon pit, 
whichever is kept at the highest temperature, with a humid atmosphere. 
As soon as they begin to fill their pots with roots give them once a week 
a little clarified liquid manure. 
About the middle of August they are placed in larger pots to suit the 
Fig. 81.— Lisianthus Rnssellianrs. 
size of the plants, in the same temperature as before, till their pots are 
filled with roots. After this prepare them for winter by giving them less 
moisture, more air, and a cooler temperature; and finally place them on 
a shelf near the glass, in the coolest part of the stove, aud wintered rather 
dry. Early in February increase the heat and moisture ; and as soon as 
they begin to grow freely repot them, which is generally about the second 
week in March. They receive another shift in April, and those that are 
intended for large specimens a third in May (using 18-inch or 20-inch 
pots), and a mixture consisting of equal quantities of good strong loam, 
peat, or bog mould, burnt clay, leaf mould, and cow manure, with a little 
white sand. These materials are well mixed together, and if dry are 
moistened to prevent their running too close in the pots. In potting a 
large quantity of drainage is used, and plenty of rubble stones, small 
potsherds, and coarse river sand amongst the mixture. Make the mixture 
just firm, and be very careful to leave it quite porous. Give very little 
water till the roots reach the sides of the pots : it is increased as the 
plants and the season advance, giving heat and moisture in proportion. 
Too much stress cannot be put upon making a proper mechanical arrange¬ 
ment of rich, porous, and well-drained soils, which are essential for the 
healthy development of plants of the nature of the Lisianthus. 
When the young shoots have become sufficiently advanced stop them 
immediately above the second joint; each shoot will then produce four. 
They require stopping about three times. The last stopping for plants 
