551 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ December 24, 1885. 
for yielding something of which the value can be represented 
in debtor and creditor accounts. Of whatever nature the 
produce raised it has a commercial value, and tho greater 
the judgment that is exercised in raising it in the best con¬ 
dition and at the least outlay the greater will it be to the 
advantage of the manager. It is from that point of view 
that the capacities of gardeners are being judged, and will be 
more closely judged in the future. Many excellent culti¬ 
vators are undoubtedly heavily handicapped in the discharge 
of their duties. They are simply overweighted with pleasure 
grounds, from which no adequate compensation can be shown 
in figures for the labour and consequent outlay that has to 
be incurred in their maintenance. They may economise in 
fuel by forcing less early and bristly; but if lawns, flower 
beds, and walks must be maintained in extent and condition 
the life of many an excellent gardener will not be so pleasant 
as to the outside world it seems. This is one of the diffi¬ 
culties of the situation, and those gardeners will act prudently 
who strive to minimise them, and work as contentedly as 
they can till a better opportunity is afforded them for the 
display of their abilities. 
Many first-rate cultivators are hardly pressed, and we 
bespeak for all earnest striving men of good character such 
consideration as can be fairly accorded them under the 
circumstances. This is not the time for changes to be 
lightly made. A good man, even if not perfect in all things, 
is not always succeeded by a better, and the imperfections of 
the new may prove greater than those of the old. Then, on 
the other hand, there is an uncertainty, and it may prove 
serious—namely, that of a gardener relinquishing his position 
because everything is not in accordance with his wishes, or 
because some members of his calling, and it may be less 
competent, are more fortunate than himself. Bitter are the 
regrets of many who would now rejoice in the opportunity of 
returning to the field of their former labour. Hard as it was 
to till, they have found it harder since, and their well-wishers 
are powerless to assist them out of difficulties that perhaps 
might have been avoided. Faithful work and patient waiting 
is a golden rule for gardeners who are longing to excel yet 
struggling with adverse conditions. 
For young men, too, there is only one safe line of conduct 
—the most positive sobriety, strict attentiveness to duty, 
great industry, a becoming demeanour, and improving 
perseveringly in whatever they perceive themselves to 
be behind their fellows. Every student of gardening should 
make himself p t least equal to the best in all the details of 
his calling. Then, and then alone, he is in a position to 
turn an opportunity to account, and win for himself the good 
position he covets and deserves ; but, on the other hand, 
similar opportunities that come within the reach of the 
negligent and incompetent are only means for bringing out 
their shortcomings, and the result is failure—perhaps failure 
for life. 
Glad shall we be if such failures in the future are few, 
and if a general improvement shall commence from the 
present time, when such a happy disposition exists to re¬ 
concile differences and promote feelings of goodwill in the 
relations of individuals of varying grades; then will there be 
hope that young and old, masters and men, readers and 
writers, will experience the pleasure embodied in the time- 
honoured wish that, it is hoped, may never become obsolete— 
A Merry Chkistmas. 
HOTBEDS—HOW TO MAKE AND USE THEM. 
There are few gardens at this time of year in which hotbeds are 
not being made to force early supplies of Asparagus, Potatoes, 
Carrots, Radishes, &c., therefore a few remarks upon the subject may 
be acceptable. The first thing to be done is to mix sufficient manure 
(as it comes from the stable yard) with an equal quantity of leaves ; 
to make the necessaiy number of beds, with turning the material two 
or three times within ten or twelve days from the time of mixing to 
allow the rank heat to escape. In order to allow of the hotbeds sub¬ 
siding a couple of feet they should be made 6 feet high and 2 feet 
wider and longer than the frame which is to be placed thereon, but 
in case of a hotbed being made large enough to take two or 
more frames longitudinally a space of 18 inches between each will be 
ample. In forming the hotbeds the fermenting material should be 
well trodden as the work proceeds, especially so 3 feet wide along the 
centre, which, moreover, should be rather higher than the other parts, 
inasmuch as it is the hottest part of the bed, and consequently the 
first to decompose and subside. The ground on which the hotbed is 
to be made should be higher than that surrounding it, so as to prevent 
the accumulation of water. Having placed the frame or frames, as 
the case may be, on the hotbed, sufficient fermenting material to 
make the depth of the back part of the frame correspond with that of 
the front should be placed therein, following this with a couple of 
inches depth of decayed manure. For Potatoes and Carrots add a 
layer about 9 inches thick of light garden soil and leaf mould in the 
proportion of three parts of the former to one of the latter, mixing 
thoroughly therewith a few shovelfuls of fresh soot, more with a view 
to rendering the soil distasteful to worms and insects than fertilising 
it. This will result in the production of clean roots. 
In making hotbeds for Melons and Cucumbers a different line of 
procedure must be followed, as higher bottom and top heat is 
necessary to promote healthy growth than is required to produce first- 
rate crops of Asparagus, Potatoes, Carrots, and Radishes. This being 
so, the hotbeds intended specially for Melons and Cucumbers should 
be made just large enough to hold the frame, and in making them a 
few layers of old Pea sticks should be placed across the beds, and 
with the same object in view—viz., that of communicating heat from 
the freshly made up linings to the interior of the bed and frame. It 
will be advisable to introduce a few small drain pipes in the sides and 
ends of the bed as it is being finished, say 6 inches from the top. 
When the box is placed on the bed put a shell inside it, which should 
be 6 inches shallower than the box. The shell can be easily made by 
measuring the interior of the box or frame and making it 1 inch less 
all round, and, as I have already stated, 6 inches shallower, nailing 
the battens on the outer side of the shell, so that when it is fixed in 
the frame there will be a space of 1 inch between that and the frame, 
thus supplying a means of top heat from the linings and bed. Hot¬ 
beds should be made in a southern aspect, or in front of a wall or 
Laurel hedge planted for the purpose of breaking the north winds. 
I will now show how frames on hotbeds may be profitably used by 
planting and sowing in them the following crops. 
Potatoes now pushing into growth should be planted two days 
after the soil has been placed in the frame, in rows 1 foot asunder 
and at 7 or 8 inches apart in the rows. The frames should from that 
date until the Potatoes have completed their growth have sufficient air 
admitted to insure a sturdy growth in the haulms, without which satis¬ 
factory results will not be achieved, and as soon as they have 
made a few inches growth above ground a like thickness of soil should 
be placed between the rows. Potatoes thus planted will yield a supply of 
young ones fit for table about the end of April, when it should be 
continued from produce obtained by successional planting. They 
will require little, if any, water at the roots during the interval from 
December to April. If the soil be not considered sufficiently rich for 
the production of moderately good-sized tubers a sprinkling of 
Beeson's manure may be advantageously incorporated with it. 
Similar advice is applicable to Carrots. Early Nantes Horn is the 
best for early use, and of this sow the soil thinly in drills about 
1 inch deep and 1 foot asunder, and between these may be similarly 
sown rows of Wood’s Frame Radish. The soil should then be closed 
over the seed and be made moderately firm with a board or the back 
of the spade. These frames, like those containing Potatoes, must 
have sufficient air given from the beginning to prevent their occu¬ 
pants making a weakly growth. A pinch of Cauliflower, Cabbage, 
and Lettuce seed may be sown thinly in these frames at the same 
time as the Carrots without in any way interfering with the welfare 
of the latter crop, inasmuch as the seedling plants could be pricked 
out in a pit containing a gentle bottom heat or under a few old lights 
in a sunny border as soon as thej r are large enough. The Radishes 
also will have been removed for salading before the Carrots require 
more room. As soon as the plants are large enough to handle they 
should be thinned out at 2 inches in the row, and afterwards be 
thinned out as required for use. 
When the surface of bed becomes dry give tepid water sufficient 
to reach the roots. If a surfacing of soil is put over the short dung 
Asparagus roots can be placed closely together thereon, covered wfith 
a few inches of light soil or sifted leaf mould, then supplying tepid 
water to settle the soil among the roots. When the “ grass ” has 
pushed a couple of inches through the soil it should be cut and stood 
on the ends in a 6-inch pot resting in a saucer of water placed in a 
house where the temperature does not fall below 50° or 45° until re¬ 
quired for use. When the condition of soil indicates dryness give 
sufficient tepid water to thoroughly moisten both soil and roots, and 
ventilate sufficiently from the time the Asparagus appears through 
