8 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Jammy 7, 1886. 
Tided for it in moat schedules, so I certainly should n >t admit it as suggested 
by your correspondent any more than I should any other distinct type. 
Neither should I admit Triompbe du Nord and Salteri in the class for 
reflexed varieties, t thought it was now generally well known that 
Empress of India, Mrs. Cunningham, Lady St. Clare, and Snowball were 
all one and the same variety, and should not be allowed as distinct.— 
C. Okchakd. 
[We have a letter on the same subject from Mr. Molyneux which 
cannot be inserted this week.] 
FERNS—THEIR HISTORY AND HA.BITATS. 
[A Paper read before the Paston Society by Mr. J. G. Newaham of Sheffield.] 
(Continued from page 587. 
Ip the fibres of the roots, especially of our more robust varie¬ 
ties, are examined minutely, it will be observed that they form 
a great mass of thickly matted rootlets, the fibres being exces¬ 
sively numerous, and of extremely delicate formation. The 
roots throw out their water searchers to great distances, which 
render it necessary that the soil be rich, light, and unobstructive. 
It is therefore of the utmost importance that no cavity or 
vacuum should be allowed to exist, and that drainage should 
have special attention. Again, when rockwork is properly 
filled in less chance is given to snails, mice, and other pe3ts to 
find lodgings. Spread a layer of soot and ashes, say an inch in 
thickness on the ground. This will check the upward tendency 
of worms, and so prevent ravages among the fibres of the roots. 
Above this spread 2 or 3 inches of loose stone or broken pots, or 
even coke makes an excellent substitute. Next take the rough 
and fibrous parts of your soil, which must be all thoroughly 
decayed and spread over the drainage to prevent the soil being 
washed amongst it I am quite aware that in most instances 
this simple prec mtion is neglected, but depend upon it, it is an 
important point. It prevents the upper parts of the rockery 
from becoming sour, and the lower parts from being soddened, 
thereby inducing a rapid growth of the fibres. 
The foundation laid, next comes the selection of material for 
the structure. I would be utterly impossible for me to decide 
or even form any idea of what each person would fancy, 
but assuming that the plants are to form the chief feature of 
the rockery, it will be necessary to construct it in order to produce 
that effect. I should recommend the large cinders from our 
steel-converting furnaces to be used for the external parts. 
These may be dipped in a thin solution of cement, which will 
give them a much cleaner appearance. Let the interior por¬ 
tion of the rockery be well filled in as the work progresses. A 
few barrow-loads of brick ends mixed with the soil will help in 
keeping it open and promote a rapid growth. Being of a porous 
nature they will retain a certain amount of moisture to feed the 
fibres in case by accident the external parts become too dry. 
The soil must be composed of half loam and sand of a sharp 
nature, the other half well-decayed leaf mould. The best loam 
we can use is that formed by decayed sods. 
Some authors recommend rich garden soil. This I consider 
is a folly. The richness of garden soil depends upon the amount 
of manure, or products of manure, which it contains at the time, 
and we are all aware that the richness cannot last long under 
constant use of the watercan. Garden soil is not, as a rule, fibrous, 
and therefore not suitable for the purpose. The loam 1 have 
named contains the decayed roots and remains of vegetable 
matter, which not only keeps sweet, but feeds the Ferns and 
encourages the roots to spread more freely. This when mixed 
with leaf soil is far more preferable than peat, because all 
Ferns will grow in it, whereas we find many of our British 
species which will not thrive well when planted in peat. For 
the upper parts of the rockery I should advise a variety of stone, 
in order to secure the geological requirements of the various 
species. Erect one corner, say, of tufa, which is an excellent 
subsitute for the calcareous or limestone Ferns. Let the oppo¬ 
site parts be composed of sandstone, the old red sandstone if 
possible; this will accommodate another class of Ferns, and the 
centre of the upper portion pieces of rock from slate strata, or 
if you are not able to get this, you can easily obtain a few broken 
slates; stand them up edgeways a little apart from each other, 
and fill in with soil containing rather more sandy loim than 
leaf mould. Ironstone, gypsum, or granite makes an excellent 
rockery for some of our smaller specimens generally found on 
old ruins. 
In my experience of gathering Ferns I have noticed very 
particularly that Scolopendriums grow remarkably well in iron¬ 
stone strata, and, generally speaking, are much inclined to sport 
or deviate from the ordinary type when found in these localities. 
The arrangement of Ferns depends entirely upon the varieties at 
command. 
“ Plant behind plant aspiring : in the van 
The dwarfish, in the rear retired, but 
Still sublinij above the rest, the statelier stand.” 
In all you do try to imitate Nature. No work, however elaborate 
aud concise, can furnish information more trustworthy and more 
to be copied than this great teacher. Give the Marsh Ferns, 
Athyriums, Royal, and other Ferns the moistest places. Instead 
of giving you a list of Ferns you may grow, it will be better to 
enumerate the Ferns you cannot grow on outdoor rockery—that 
is, those of our Bi-itish varieties. 
Bi-itish Ferns not suited for outdoor work—Adder’s Tongue 
( Ophioglossum vulgatum), Bristle Fern (Trichomanes radicans''. 
Film Ferns (H> menophyllum tunbridgense and Wilsoni), 
Maidenhair (Adiantum Capillus-Veneris), Naked Polypody 
(Gymnogramma leptophylla), Shield Fei-n, Alpine (Polystichum 
Lonchitis, or commonly called Holly Fern), Maidenhair Spleen- 
wort (Asplenium viride), Kock Spleen wort (A. fontanum), Sea 
Spleenwort (A. marinum), Spear-shaped Spleenwort (A. lanceo- 
latum), and the Woodsias (.ilvensis and hypei'borea). 
I will conclude my remarks on this mode of growing Ferns 
by just referring to the supply of water. Always syringe the 
rockery during dry weather at night. Never water over the fronds 
in the moi-ning, if you do this the sun will quickly change the 
beautiful green tints for the yellow brown colour which gives 
such a forlorn and scorched appearance. Water at night allows 
sufficient time to thox-oughly invigoi-ate the plants and penetrate 
the whole structure, thex - eby px'eparing them for the di’y atmo¬ 
sphere during the forthcoming day. By a due observance of 
these simple yet ideally necessary precautions, you will do much 
towards assisting your plants to a vigorous growth, and to supply¬ 
ing yourself with a source of i - eal pleasure and enjoyment. 
FERNS UNDER PROTECTION. 
We come now to a vei-y lai’ge field for thought and 
discourse. Immediately plants of any description are placed 
under protection we relieve Nature of the l-esponsibihty, and 
take upon ourselves an important task. All their wants, means 
of sustenence, remedy against evils, pests, and all other con¬ 
tingencies rest upon oux - selves. This is not less so with Ferns 
in order that we may enjoy their beauties during the long dreary 
days of winter. The constant care and regular attention i - e- 
quix-ed to keep Feims in a vigorous and healthy state often 
wearies the cultivator. Thus that ceaseless force must be a 
genuine love for the plants grown. Under all circumstances 
bear this great point in mind, that Nature, and not books, must 
be your ideal. I do not wish to ignore the great value of our 
books, quite the contrary. Books point to Nature, and are the 
keys to knowledge. (Jowper says :— 
“ Knowledge dwells 
In heads replete with thoughts of 
Other men.” 
But I advise lovers of Ferns to search for them in their native 
haunts, and thus become acquainted with their habits, the 
various soils in which they grow, the moisture they require, and 
the natural conditions under which they flourish. 
Ferns may be grown in various ways under glass—in the 
greenhouse or fernery, either upon the rockwoi’k or in pots ; but 
by far most Ferns ai’e grown in our houses in cases or under 
bell shades. Nothing gives me more pleasure than to see a neat 
Fern case well constructed, and not too full of plants. But how 
often do we see the reverse. Many a time have I noticed cases 
of this description, presenting but poor credit, and I would fain 
have knocked at the door of such houses and proffered a fewuseful 
hints to enable the owner to become more successful. One 
common fault is ovei-crowding, caused often by a wrong selection 
of Ferns, which when planted in the new, liglit, and spongy soil 
rush away to the top of the case, filling it with a dense mass of 
foliage. The roots in most cases crowd the pan, devour the most 
nutritious portions of the soil, and, as often is the case, suffer 
for want of support just when you fancy you have achieved 
success, puzzling the owner by a sudden collapse, which may 
sometimes end in the case being consigned to the attic to wait 
further orders Choose the most suitable varieties to begin with, 
say of British the following :—Adiantum Capillus-Veneris, 
Asplenium marinum, A. Adiantum nigrum, A. Trichomanes, 
Gystopteris fragilis, Polypodium Phegopteris, P. Dryopteris, 
Scolopendriums, and Athryiums. When further advanced in 
the art of management grow the Filmy Ferns and Killarney 
Fern, or Ti-ichomanes radicans. Select from this list and 
arrange them at distances a few inches apart, some raised above 
