Jannary 14, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
19 
Madame Moulise, James Salter, Guernsey Nugget, Fair Maid of 
Guernsey, Dr. Maeary, Triomphe de la rue des Chalets, and oth irs, 
the buds of which are only just showing colour. Of course the 
majority are terminal buds, and we cannot expect them to be as good 
as iu November and December ; but how useful they are in January 
and February ! One seems to value a few plants of Fair Maid and 
Madame Moulise at this season very much indeed, and always feel 
sorry when the last bloom has gone. However, by striking early 
cuttings and taking crown buds we have the much-admired and de¬ 
servedly popular Madame Desgranges, with its golden sport, and 
others in bloom again in July or early in August (last year it was 
September). We hail with especial pleasure many of the recently in¬ 
troduced Japanese, blooming as they do a month or so in advance of 
the general collection. These, it appears, are the varieties which are 
disappointing to Mr. Iggulden, which I can quite understand. However, 
“ it is an ill wind which blows no good,” and if some of these are too 
early for the south we welcome them in the north. 
But to return to the subject of ripening the wood of Chrysanthe¬ 
mums. If we were never convinced of the importance of this before, 
surely this season in the north has impressed it upon us ; more par¬ 
ticularly has this been noticeable in the case of the July-struck 
plants, which in other years we have valued so much and found so 
useful. This season, though struck about the same time and pro¬ 
mised well, have in most cases entirely failed to bloom. We at 
first thought that had we struck a month earlier that the case might 
have been different, but upon looking them over we saw some plants 
which we remembered were put in in May and the “ crown ” bud 
taken, but still the case is much the same. A neighbour who usually 
grows these small plants well had this season what we considered a re¬ 
markably promising batch, but which has not turned out any better 
then our own. Then, certainly in this case, we must blame the season, 
and such statements as those which appeared a couple or three years 
ago as to the non-importance of ripening the wood will not do for 
northerners. It may do better in the south. 
This leads us to the time for inserting cuttings. We are convinced 
that good blooms here cannot be depended upon from spring-struck 
plants. We insert cuttings of most varieties as soon as we can get 
them after the first week in November, but would warn beginners 
against coddling these plants in any way. We believe in the cold 
frame after they are rooted if not before. 
With regard to Golden Queen of England refusing to properly 7 in¬ 
curve, we experienced the same difficulty, not only with this variety, 
but with others as well, especially the Empresses. Perhaps Mr. 
Molyneux or some other experienced grower will give us a little light 
on the subject, for, to say the least, it is disappointing. In conclu¬ 
sion, is there any distinction in Mrs. Marsham from its so-called 
parent Elaine ? or is the one a counterpart of the other ? I cannot 
see any difference.—W. Jenkins, Aldin Grange . 
DWARF TOMATOES. 
A considerable number of growers ai'e under the impres¬ 
sion that if dwarf plants are required they should be propagated 
from cuttings, but this I do not conside the best plan, as I have 
frequently proved that the dwarfest, sturdiest, and most prolific 
plants are those raised from seed in the manner here described. 
There are but few sorts naturally dwarf in habit, the only one 
included in most catalogues being the old Dwarf Orangefield, 
and even this may easily become tall if badly treated. It is still 
one of the best both as regards free-bearing and the quality of 
the fruit, the only fault to be noted is that these are rather too 
small to please everybody. Carter’s Perfection ( have grown in 
Dots for several seasons and find it very prolific, and the fruit 
handsome and fairly large, are of excellent quality. Sutton’s 
Perfection is rather too vigorous and succeeds better on trellises 
or walls, in which positions it fruits freely and continuously, 
requiring less heat in winter than the majority of varieties I am 
acquainted with. Hackwood Park Prolific can be made to 
produce exceptionally heavy crops on pot plants, and the fruits 
are large and handsome, though these do not ripen so thoroughly 
as they should do, and on the whole the quality must be said to 
be disappointing. Dedham Favourite is of good habit, being 
sturdy and prolific, but it is of tbe greatest value for open-air 
culture. Trentham Early Fillbasket was to have eclipsed most 
other varieties for pot culture, but I cannot speak very highly of 
it; in fact, l am not certain what are its characteristics, as each 
time I grew it there were several forms or sorts from one packet 
of seed. Earley’s Defiance is a profitable sort, and Conqueror a 
heavy cropper. Hathaway’s Excelsior is still one of the best, 
and although one of the earliest of American introductions it 
appears to be the only one that has attained alasting popularity. 
Of the foregoing I can most strongly recommend Dwarf Orange- 
field and Carter’s Pe* Section, while if a third variety is required 
--—^- 
I would add Earley’s Defiance, this being a good form of Large 
Red - one of the oldest and heaviest cropping varieties in 
cultivation. 
In order to secure an early crop from plants in pots, in 
advance perhaps of heavier and later crops from those planted 
or fruited in boxes and larger pots, no time should be lost in 
sowing the seed. This should be sown thinly in pans or pots 
well drained and filled with fairly light soil, the seeds being only 
lightly covered. The soil being fairly moist, no water need be 
given ; otherwise give tepid water through a fine-rose pot. If the 
pots or pans are plunged in a brisk bottom heat, or failing this 
are stood as near the hot-water pipes as possible, the seeds quickly 
germinate, and then the dwarfing process must at once commence, 
for dwarfed pot plants must generally be if they are to be profit¬ 
able. Directly the seedlings are clear of the soil the pots or 
pans ought to be either raised on the hotbed so as to well expose 
them to all the light possible, or else stood on a warm shelf near 
the glass. It is also advisable to thin out the seedlings where at 
all crowded, this all tending to keep the reserved plants more 
sturdy, and, besides, it is unwise to raise many more than are 
really required for that particular batch. When the seedlings 
are in rough leaf—that is to say, have partially developed a 
second pair of leaves, the time has arrived for potting them off, 
a few days’ delay adding, maybe, as many inches to their length. 
Any light soil suits them, the usual mixture being two parts 
turfy loam to one of leaf soil or thoroughly decomposed manure. 
This ought always to be warmed before using, and wdiich is most 
easily accomplished by plunging one or more hot bricks into the 
heap for a short time. The potting should also be performed in 
the house where the plants are growing, or otherwise a severe 
check may be given them. There are plenty who first pot off 
singly into 3-inch and even smaller pots, but I am still of opinion 
that it is much the best plan to either pot off singly into 5-inch 
pots or in pairs in 6-inch pots, and can safely assert that these 
do not become nearly so drawn and spindly as do those in small 
pots, even if the latter are given a shift prior to their transfer 
to the fruiting pots. Directly plants either in small or large 
pots become root-bound the top growth soon loses its sturdiness, 
and by the time this has been recovered dwarf fruiting plants 
will have become impossible. The process of first potting must 
be again alluded to, as this also affects the dwarfing process. 
Clean pots should be used with one crock in the bottom, this 
being covered with a little rough manure or turf, and the seed¬ 
lings should be sunk into the soil so as to bring the seed leaves, 
after tbe soil is jarred down, in preference to hand pressing, just 
on the surface. A little water of the same temperature as the- 
house may be given after the pots are either plunged or stood on 
the bed, or else stood in a warm position where they may be 
lightly shaded for two or three days. They will soon commence 
rooting afresh, the buried stems also freely emitting strong 
roots. As soon as they will bear the full sunshine they ought to 
be well exposed to it, and as near the glass as possible without 
exposing them to cold draughts of air. In this manner the 
requisite sturdy plants will be secured, and these should be 
transferred to the fruiting pots before they become badly root- 
bound. 
We generally use 12-inch pots for the single plants, but if 
the positions favour the use of larger pots these are made to 
hold two plants. Yery little drainage is needed, and instead of 
so many crocks we find it preferable to use the roughest portion 
of the compost—this, I ought to add, consisting of two parts 
of turfy loam to one of slightly decayed horse droppings, also 
well warmed as above advised. We pot deeply so as to allow 
plenty of room, or say fully one-quarter of the depth, for a 
good top-dressing later on. A strong stake from 3 to 4 feet in 
length is at once placed to each plant, and all are then stood on 
a well exposed wall or staging. The balls being properly moist 
when shifted into the fruiting pots, no water will be needed for 
two or three days, but they should be examined frequently and 
watered carefully as required till such times as the roots have 
taken strong possession of the new soil, when they should be 
watered in the usual manner, and never at any time with water 
lower in temperature than the house in which the plants are 
growing. The first bunch of bloom will in most cases have been 
observed when the plants are finally potted, and on the preserva¬ 
tion and development of this depends the character of the 
plant. If the work has been carried out as described, no severe 
check will be given, and a strong bunch of bloom will develope 
most probably within 12 inches or, at the most, 15 inches of the 
pot, and to this two more strong bunches will soon be added, 
which if good “sets” are obtainei will yield an ample crop. 
From the first all side shoots ought to be kept closely rubbed 
out, this naturally encouraging the formation of a stout stem 
and extra fine foliage. The fruit does not always early in the 
