20 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 14, 1886. 
♦ 
season set so readily as wished for, and to encourage free setting 
a rather drier} 'atmosphere than is usual in ordinary forcing 
houses should, if possible, be maintained for a few days. Then 
towards mid-day, or say after a little air has been given for a 
short timej'a smart tap may distribute the pollen and effect the 
set, or, in order not to risk failure, the camel hair brush may be 
used'for,'touching over the blossoms, and we have frequently 
effected good sets by gently rubbing the fertilising parts of two 
flowers together. It is not advisable at any time to syringe the 
plants; while temperatures that will grow them quickly are 55° 
to 60° by night, 65° to 70° by day, raising 10° higher with sun 
heat, closing the house early so as to raise the heat fully 10° 
higher. I give those figures as being suitable, but they may be 
varied according to circumstances, Tomatoes succeeding and 
taking “pot luck” in either Cucumber and Melon houses, or 
vineries, Peach, and plant houses. 
I am not an advocate of starvation treatment of Tomatoes, 
and in pots especially liberal treatment must be given or the 
crops will be light. Directly the first bunch of fruit is set we 
give the plants a good top-dressing of loam and decayed stable 
manure or horse-droppings in equal proportions, and take par¬ 
ticular care that this top-dressing of fresh unoccupied soil does 
not mislead us. This may be moist enough, but the fully occupied 
soil underneath be injuriously dry, and unless this is guarded 
against a great check will be given. Then if extra good crops 
are being perfected the plants receive later on yet another slight 
top-dressing of manure, and also an occasional dusting over the 
surface of the soil with Beeson’s or some other artificial manure, 
this being varied with moderately strong supplies of farmyard 
liquid manure. From the foregoing it will be seen that we spare 
no pains in our endeavours to secure heavy crops of fruit, but I 
hold that without extra good house accommodation it is quite 
necessary that such pains should be taken, and, further, that the 
results amply compensate. I suppose that high prices for 
Tomatoes will never again be realised, owing to the fact that the 
supply has increased to such a wonderfully rapid extent Im¬ 
mense quantities are now annually eaten in various forms in this 
country, but it is doubtful if pot culture will prove sufficiently 
remunerative as of old unless exceptionally heavy crops are 
obtained.— W. Iggulden. 
FERNS—THEIR HISTORY AND HABITATS. 
[A Paper read before the Paxton Society by Mr. J. G. Newsbam of Sheffield.] 
(Continued from j>age 9.) 
In closing my remarks on culture I would ask you to be most 
careful in the administration of water. Water should not be 
given over the fronds. The moisture in the case caused through 
evaporation is quite sufficient to supply all that is necessary for 
them. Small fountains, miniature falls, and other such adorn¬ 
ments are useless unless the water is disposed of independently, 
and not allowed to pass through the soil or deluge the fronds. In 
the winter months supply water very sparingly to the roots, as 
however good the drainage the danger remains the same. Ferns 
grown in cases, or under close confinement in any way, are re¬ 
markably delicate, being very susceptible to mildew, and also 
more liable to the attack of disease in its various forms. Venti¬ 
lation in a great measure depends on circumstances and (he 
class of Ferns being grown. A little experience will suffice to 
teach what is required. 
THE FERNERY. 
In order to fully appreciate the beauty of Ferns and to enjoy 
their attractions, you require to possess a properly constructed 
fernery. This is beyond all doubt the one ambition of the Fern 
fancier. In the fernery you can grow from the smallest to the 
largest, humour the most majestic, nestle into snug corners the 
very smallest, produce fair specimens of the many varieties 
equally as well as if Nature herself had nursed them. ’Tis here, 
and here alone, that you can enjoy the real sweets of this 
favourite pursuit. The fernery may be constructed entirely of 
rockwork, or suited only for pot culture simply at the will or 
fancy of the grower. If you wish to produce show or specimen 
plants adopt the pot. if artistic effect is the object, then, of 
course, simply convert the outdoor fernery into rockwork under 
protection; in that case you may add the great majority of 
British Ferns, all the half-hardy varieties with Selaginellas or 
Mosses if you think proper. Generally speaking, follow the 
Instructions given previously, paying more attention to the com¬ 
position or geological arrangement, as that will introduce a 
greater variety. 
Objections may be raised to this method in a fernery. It has 
its advantages and disadvantages. Effect is the most salient 
feature in its favour. Again, you have certainly less trouble 
with rockwork on account of the almost unlimited supply of 
moisture at the roots, which have a free run amongst our stones 
and soil, and do not therefore require that constant attention, 
unless it be in the matter of snails. Every night take a candle 
or lamp, and diligently search for the thieves, give no quarter, 
but destroy every trace of them ; failing this you will soon find 
that copying Nature in part only is a disadvantage. 
Ferns grown in pots require daily attention, especially in hot 
weather. If once allowed to get dry the plants generally suffer 
for the whole season, and very frequently during the one follow¬ 
ing. In many of our tufted varieties, during the autumn months, 
you will find the crowns forming their next year’s supply of 
fronds. The plants will present a fullness or swelling just above 
the soil. If even at this period of the season you allow them to 
suffer for want of water, you will well understand that their 
progeny, from this very cause, is to a great extent annihilated. 
Another precaution must be taken against too much moisture. 
You will often find that the holes at the bottom of the pots 
become choked from various causes, and the water prevented 
from properly draining away. The results of this catastrophe 
in nearly all cases prove fatal unless great vigilance is exercised. 
Upon rockwork this rarely occurs. When plants are grown in 
pots they can be removed from one position to another, just as 
their requirements demand, whereas upon rockwork they neces¬ 
sarily become stationary. Constant removal of plants by taking 
out their roots destroys their vitality and weakens their progress 
in every way. 1 have tried both methods, and find much to 
admire and much to praise in each. The only advantage to me 
is that by growing Ferns in pots I am able to produce better 
specimens for exhibition. The labour is greater beyond doubt, 
and the achievements more difficult, but the result compensates 
for the extra trouble. To secure success in pot culture, you 
also require great judgment in potting and repotting. I have 
seen plants with very good prospects for their future growth 
spoiled by being kept in pots too small. On the other hand, a 
great fault is committed by our potting—that is, giving too 
large pots. 
It is of the greatest importance that there should be a free 
motion of the earthy molecules forming the soil in the pots. To 
obtain this your pots must be perfectly clean inside ; if the pores 
are blocked before you put the plant in, the air cannot chemically 
and easily combine with the soil, the salts so necessary to the 
plant can never be produced. It is possible to have both inside 
and outside clean before you remove a plant, and it is highly 
beneficia 1 . 
Upon the subject of watering I have said a little in respect 
to the various modes upon which I have dwelt. I know that in 
respect to overhead supplies there is much diversity of opinion. 
I will give you my idea and leave you to accept it or reject it. 
All Ferns grown upon rockwork, whether indoor or outdoor, 
are certainly benefited by being syringed. Ferns in pots should 
be watered by the can for two reasons First, it is safer. You 
might, perhaps, force a lot of water overhead, and think the plant 
would have sufficient, whereas a close examination of the soil 
would reveal the poor roots almost baked, and take it for granted 
that if this were allowed to continue long you would have no 
fronds to water, or what were left would be brown or yellow, 
and no doubt you would at once say syringing did it; nor would 
you be very far wrong either, for if you had used the can and 
not the syringe you might have saved your plant. Secondly, I 
believe that when water is given overhead to a thirsty plant it 
has a tendency to hasten its decay. Plants grown in windows 
in pots should every now and again be well washed with the 
syringe, or they have no chance of inhaling the atmospheric 
support they require. Instead of moisture they get dust and 
smuts. 
Liquid manure I rarely use. I look upon it as teetotallers look 
upon beer. It may be—in fact, I believe it is —useful when given 
to a plant which is sickly; but even then it must be very weak. 
If the Ferns thrive well, let well alone. I have tried water with 
lime for one class, water which has been poured over leaf mould, 
or peat for others. In fact, I may say that I have attempted to pro¬ 
duce decoctions from various sources, and to imitate various 
strata, or the issues of these strata, and have been fairly 
successful. This, however, may be considered as raw material, 
and should not be attempted except by such as have made them¬ 
selves conversant with the geological distribution of Ferns. 
Mr. E. Molyneux on Propagating Chrysanthemums. —I am sure ail 
your readers read Mr. Molyneux’s excellent contributions with great interest, 
not so much because he is the champion grower, but because of the great 
clearness and accuracy with which he conveys his own experience. A vital 
point in propagating is to give sufficient air to dispel damp, and this more 
especially with the rare and more delicately grown varieties, that are very 
