52 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 21, 1886. 
Of Pears numerous sorts have been introduced from abroad, but among 
these, if we except the Bartlett, it will be found that the finest and most 
profitable sorts are of native origin, having sprung up in hedgerows and 
waste places, to which have been added some fine sorts by Mr. Clapp and 
Mr. Dana. We do not venture to say much about the notorious kind 
known as Kieffer ; the last we ate were not very mellow, and the tree is 
not proof against blight as reported. Pear3 do not bring such high prices 
as they used to do, but that wholesome and desirable fruit, the Apple, still 
receives valuable additions to its number of kinds, and the quantity grown 
is immense. The quality of such as are grown in the Middle and Northern 
States does not compare well with those grown in the Western States in 
size and smoothness of skin, so that in the market the growers in the State 
of New York will scarcely be able to hold their own. 
In the State of Delaware, and lands bordering both shores of the 
Chesapeake Bay, there are carloads of Peaches grown now for bushels 
that were raised fifty years ago, and the planting of new orchards still 
goes on, and will continue. Small fruits, as Raspberries, Blackberries, 
Currants, and Strawberries, have been greatly augmented in kinds as well 
as in quality. Every year brings forth a host of new Strawberries, some 
of them good in fact, while most are represented as better than the best, 
particularly should they he brought to your notice by a travelling tree 
charlatan. 
By the foregoing meagre statement it will be found that the country 
has arrived at a high state of progress in horticulture, much of which is 
due to the writings of the Downings, Wilder, Barry, Meehan and many 
other noted men, combined with the work of the American Pomological 
Society; not forgetting the aid afforded by descriptive and illustrated 
catalogues spread broadcast over the length and breadth of the land by 
the almost innumerable nurserymen and florists found in every section of 
our diversified and fertile country.—W. D. Brackenridge (in the 
American Farmer'). 
ODONTOGLOSSUM ROSSI MAJUS. 
This is a useful cool house Orchid which ought to be grown in every 
collection. The flowers are freely produced from the side of the pseudo¬ 
bulb on a short stem about 6 or 7 inches high, which generally carries 
about three of its beautiful flowers. The flowers are suitable for cutting, 
either to fill small vases for bouquet or buttonholes. In colour the 
flowers vary slightly. The sepals and petals are white, heavily spotted in 
dark forms with purplish crimson. The lip is large and pure white, while 
all round the column some varieties are heavily spotted. 
In addition to the value of the flowers in a cut state, the plants, if 
grown in small pots or pans, are effective for front rows in the conserva¬ 
tory, arranged amongst Grasses, Mosses, or small Ferns. For room-deco¬ 
ration it is also useful, and may be employed for a short time where gas 
is not used. For this purpose plants in 4-inch pots and pans are beautiful, 
with about half a dozen spikes of bloom. In rooms they are best suited 
for using singly in small vases, and not crowded with other plants. They 
should also have light positions, and never be allowed to suffer from an 
insufficient supply of water. It is not wise to allow the plants to remain 
in rooms more than a week or ten days. Care must be taken to stand 
them where draughts will not strike upon them, or against windows that 
are opened early in the morning, 
This variety is particularly cheap just now, and imported plants may 
be purchased for 2s. 6d., while for double the price plants may be had 
with from twenty to thirty pseudo-bulbs. Such are certain to produce 
from three to six breaks. This variety is now within the reach of all, 
and those who want choice flowers in quantity should grow a good num¬ 
ber of this lovely Or'hid, for they can be had in perfection without 
occupying much stage room. In fact, if they are grown in small pans 
instead of pots they can be suspended from the roof of the house. They 
do well on blocks, but these give considerably more trouble in keeping 
them watered than when grown in either pots or shallow pans. 
All intending to cultivate this Orchid should start with imported 
plants, and no time is more suitable for purchasing them than the present. 
If they are received at once in good condition and well eared for during 
the season of growth, they will develope pseudo-bulbs which will flower 
profusely next winter about this time. When the plants are received all 
dead and decaying, pseudo-bulbs should be removed and the fresh plump 
ones sponged before they are potted or placed upon blocks. The pans or 
pots must be liberally drained by half filling the pots or pans with pot¬ 
sherds or charcoal, or a mixture of both. If pots are employed they 
should be more than three parts filled with drainage, for they will 
then hold as much soil as the pans. When pans are to be used, those 
from 4 to 6 inches in diameter are the most suitable, unless a large 
Size is required. We prefer pans to pots because the plants are naturally 
dwarf, and have a neater appearance when suspended from the roof 
than pots. After the pans have been drained place the plants in them in 
a mixture of fibry peat and charcoal. Shake out the soily particles of 
the peat before use, and then it can be preserved in good condition for at 
least two or three yearp, which would not be the case if the compost was 
intermixed with sphagnum moss, which decomposes in one season. 
In potting them the peat should be moderately well elevated above the 
rim of the pans or pots used, and the few old roots that the plants possess 
should be retained for the purpose of securing them firmly in the soil. 
They are rather more difficult to make secure than many Orchids, and if 
this cannot be satisfactorily performed, a few wire pegs may be employed, 
by which they can be held in position on the surface of the peat. Arrange 
evenly those pseudo-bulbs most likely to produce a break. 
When the plants are placed upon blocks of wood, a little peat fibre or 
living sphagnum moss should be employed under to retain moisture about 
them after rooting is commenced. Before this is done, drive four or six 
copper nails into the block, and when the plants are placed into position 
they should be made secure by means of copper wire. Then other wire 
should be fastened to the blocks by which they can be suspended from 
the roof. Arrange these so that the block hangs horizontally. 
After the potting, the moisture of the house will be ample for ten days 
or a fortnight. During this time they will be better standing amongst 
other plants, or in a partially shaded position if any growths have started. 
Subsequently they can be lightly dewed with the syringe daily, and the 
pseudo-bulbs will soon become fresh and plump. When they reach this 
stage, keep them in an intermediate state for moisture until growth com¬ 
mences. As this advances more water may be given, and neither in summer 
nor winter must they be allowed an insufficient supply. They will bear 
watering over the foliage, and those on blocks may be liberally syringed 
twice daily during the season of growth. A surfacing of living sphagnum 
moss will assist in holding moisture about the plants. 
During growth this Orchid should be shaded from bright sunshine, but 
dense shading must be avoided, or the foliage will become weakly. Admit 
air freely on all favourable occasions, as when the house is kept closed the 
atmosphere is liable to become saturated with moisture, and the young 
growths are certain to suffer if water lodges in them. The weather ex¬ 
ternally must guide the cultivator in syringing the plants. 
Although this is considered a cool-house Orchid, the low temperature 
recommended by some is a great mistake, and should not be practised, or 
serious results will follow. Many have tried a low temperature for these 
plants to their cost, and have abandoned it for a warmer and more genial 
atmosphere. I have tried both systems, and the cold one cannot be too 
strongly condemned, for the plants, if they do not actually die, go back as 
much during the winter as they make progress during the season of 
growth. Perhaps O. crispum and 0. Pescatorei will bear a lower tem¬ 
perature than any other Odontoglossums, but even then they do not 
increase half so rapidly as when grown warmer. A reliable and a safe 
night temperature during the winter, say from October until March, is 
50° to 55°, the highest figures only being maintained during mild weather. 
During severe weather no harm will be done if the thermometer falls to 
45° by morning on a few solitary occasions. The temperature, after the 
month given, is gradually increased as the season advances until artificial 
heat can be entirely dispensed with, which is generally the case early in 
June or some time during that month. The object during summer is to 
keep the plants as cool as possible, avoiding cold draughts on all occasions. 
Fire heat is again used in September, or as soon as the weather compels 
us to do so. Under moderately warm treatment more attention is needed 
in admitting ah- to insure a sturdy compact growth, which is certain to 
be obtained if the house is freely ventilated. 
Up to the present time I have never seen an insect on our plants of 
0. Rossi majus, but they are liable to the attacks of aphides and yellow 
thrips. Both are easily destroyed by the use of weak tobacco water. 
The thrips, if very troublesome, are readily destroyed by dusting the 
young growths with tobacco powder, but care must be taken to wash it 
clean out of the growth again afterwards. These plants do not like being 
fumigated, and therefore we never practise it.— Scientia. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Vacant Ground. —In cases where labour is limited the vegetable 
quarters are cleared from time to time during the autumn and winter, 
but the soil is seldom dug roughly or trenched until planting or sowing 
time comes, when it is turned over in a hurry to get the crop in. This is 
by no means the best way of treating vegetable quarters, and those who 
follow this practice need not expect their crops to be first-rate. Good 
cultivation of the soil always pays, and although its advantages may not 
be much noticed in spring and as long as the weather is cool, but it is in 
the hot dry summer months, and when the crops are maturing, that the 
greatest benefits are derived from deep winter digging and trenching. 
All kinds of soils are improved by this, and particularly those inclined to 
be stiff. All vacant ground should be turned at once, and where there is 
a quantity of Broccoli, Savoys, and Brussels Sprouts taking up space that 
will be required for spring crops, dig them up with good balls of soil and 
lay them in close together in a spare corner. \Ve always practise this 
plan. Of late we have had much frost, and we are delighted to notice 
the way it has pulverised the surface of some stiff soils which were dug 
in November. 
Manuring. —This is closely connected with digging, as some are in 
the habit of applying manure at the same time as they dig. In some 
cases the practice is good, but not always. When the manure is well 
decayed we always use it at the time of sowing or planting, but when we 
have very rough material to deal with, we dig it in during the winter and 
a considerable time before tho cropping season. Plants which root deeply, 
such as Carrots and Parsnips, should never come in contact with rough 
manure, and the ground for all such crops should be manured early ; but 
tor Onions and Cauliflowers the manure can hardly be too near the 
