76 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ January 28, 18t6. 
The large plant stove is always a fine feature here, the collection 
of specimen Crotons being alone worth a long journey to see. The 
plants are very large, 6 or 7 feet high, and almost as much through, very 
clean, and wonderfully bright in colour. Amongst a many good things 
in this house especially noticeable are fine specimens of Sphmrogyne 
latifolia, with twelve full-grown leaves, very massive, and without spot 
or blemish ; Heliconia aurea striatum, fine plants, very brightly coloured ; 
Anthurium Scbertzerianum, a massive plant of a grand variety, throwing 
up about a hundred flowers ; Adiantum farleyense, two fine specimens, 
each about 5 feet over. In another house we noticed Eucharis amazonica, 
Candida, and Sanderiana, all flowering side by side, the two latter serving 
as foils for showing up the superior beauty and excellence of the first 
named old favourite. We also noticed a collection of seedling Crotons 
raised there, one or two of which are. we believe, destined to become 
popular varieties, especially so a cross between C. Weismanni and C. 
Yeitchi. 
In the conservatory is a fine collection of late Chrysanthemums, which 
for some years past has been made a speciality. The varieties principally 
grown are Princess of Teck, Hero of Stoke Newington, Guernsey Nugget, 
Jardin des Plantes, Mrs. Howe, Dr. Masters, and Fleur de Marie. Of the 
two first named numerous large bushes are now—January 7th—freely 
opening fine flowers in abundance, and bid fair to be very fresh and good 
for several weeks yet to come. A number of large plants of the 
Gladiolus-like Schizostylis coccinea are very effective. The numerous 
flower spikes are each about 2 feet long, and the individual flowers 
3 inches in diameter. This plant is one of Mr. Hannah’s especial 
favourites, and no one, I believe, succeeds better in its cultivation.— 
W. K. W. 
IS WORKjoi\the WE EK,. 
mf fsriK^iiifi t 1 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Bush Feuit.— Faulty practice in the culture of bush fruit is by no 
means uncommon, and an instance of it which came recently under our 
notice was a reminder that a good lesson cannot be too often repeated. 
Let us once more briefly enumerate the chief points to which it is 
important that close attention should be given. Gooseberries and Red 
and White Currants should be planted at least 5 feet apart in the smallest 
garden, and 6 feet whenever space can be had. Bushes crowded together 
at 3 or even 4 feet apart either grow into a thicket or are pruned so 
severely that very little fruit can be had ; but 6 feet from bush to bush 
affords space for full development and for getting among the bushes for 
all cultural purposes. A few well-grown full-sized bushes will afford 
more and better fruit than twice the number of small bushes crippled and 
stunted by excessive pruning. Rich loam or its equivalent in well- 
manured and carefully prepared soil, is necessary. We have planted in 
soil with no more preparation than the digging in an ordinary dressing 
of manure as for a bed of Cabbages with perfect results, and we have had 
to drain, trench, mix lime, coal ashes, and a double quantity of manure 
where the soil has been poor, thin, deficient in lime and in stones or gritty 
matters to ensure success ; and let it be understood that one can render 
success a certainty in any soil. It is, however, highly important that the 
soil is in such a sound, fertile, porous condition before the planting, 
because it must not be disturbed afterwards; there must be no digging 
among the bushes, only an annual dressing upon the surface of manure 
from the stable, cowyard, or piggery, anv necessary hoeing of weeds in 
summer, and a liberal use of liquid manure during the season of growth. 
In pruning we remove all growth too near the soil, open out the middle 
of the bush, spur in side growth upon old branches, and leave new 
growth sufficiently thinned to let light and air bave free play among it. 
At this season of the year the branches of Gooseberry bushes should be 
syringed with a wash consisting of softsoap dissolved in hot water and 
mixed with finely powdered lime and soot. This forms an efficient pro¬ 
tection against the ravages of bullfinches. See that the syringing is so 
done that the branches and buds are quite covered with the wash. 
Black Cukeants.— The-e answer best in a deep rich loam, failing 
which trenches may be filled with rich manure mixed with soil. Plant 
6 feet apart, see that bushes have no stems, our object being to develope 
strong stools from which stout shoots spring annually to replace old 
growth as it becomes exhausted and feeble. It is hardly possible to 
enrich soil too much for this profitable fruit, and the bushes must have 
a plentiful annual surface dressing of manure, and the soil a weekly 
soaking of sewage or other liquid manure in spring and summer. To be 
fully successful it is imperative that the soil be well stored with nutriment 
If this is not done the bushes deteriorate quickly even in a deep loam. 
Do not spur Black Currants, but thin out the growths, removing all old 
and exhausted branches. 
Raspbebkies.— The soil for Raspberries requires very similar treat¬ 
ment to that enumerated for Black Currants. It was owing to a failure 
of a large bed of Raspberries planted by us in poor thin soil that we 
were induced to prepare trenches of very rich soil, made so by the free 
use of well-decayed stablo manure, and we not only had stout canes 12 feet 
high, but those canes, headed down to about 4 feet, put forth side shoots 
next season that were laden with a crop of fruit that was absolutely 
marvellous. At the planting the canes were shortened to 18 inches, with 
such excellent results that we have ever since adhered to the plan. In 
this note we have striven to show how extra pains in the culture of bush 
fruit is well rewarded by extraordinary results far superior to anything 
seen under ordinary practice. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. — Earliest Trees in Pots. —With bright nights, and the tempe¬ 
rature several degrees below freezing point, it is useless to think of 
increasing the night temperature. Advantage should be taken of sun¬ 
shine to close early in the afternoon, or from one to two o’clock, with a 
rising temperature, and if blinds or mats can be drawn over the roof 
lights at night it will do away with the necessity for sharp firing with¬ 
out running the risk of giving a check that might prove fatal to the 
crop. The fermenting materials that have been placed about the pots 
should receive frequent additions of warm Oak leaves on the surface, 
working them in when turning is considered necessary for maintaining 
the bottom heat at 75° to 80°. It will be necessary to examine the pots 
frequently, particularly where they are partially exposed to the parching 
influence of fire heat, and give a good supply of tepid liquid. If pro¬ 
perly drained and placed upon dry brick pedestals there is little danger 
of giving a pot Fig that is well furnished with foliage and fruit too much 
water. When fresh fermenting materials are introduced it will be the 
safest plan to have a little ventilation constantly at the top of the house. 
Syringe the trees in the morning and early in the afternoon, as red 
spider may be expected to appear after so much sharp firing. Stop all 
gross shoots at the sixth leaf, thin outside shoots and useless spray, that 
the young spurs and fruit may have the benefit of air and light. The 
thinning ;of the fruit should also have attention as soon as the most 
promising and best placed can be decided upon for the crop. Trees that 
have been some time under judicious treatment show more fruits than 
they can bring to maturity, hence the necessity of thinning, especially 
before the fruit takes the last swelling, at which state the Fig sometimes 
casts its finest fruit, and those left, owing to the check the trees receive, 
lack the flavour that gives them their value in our finest desserts. 
Succession Houses. —Encourage a steady progressive growth by giving 
gentle fire heat and moisture though the day. Keep the borders well 
mulched, and give plentiful supplies of tepid water to the roots, but care¬ 
fully avoid a high night temperature until the weather becomes more 
genial. 
Planting Fresh Trees. —The present is a suitable time for making the 
needful preparations, and the trees should be placed into position as soon 
as possible. A limited space only should be accorded the roots, and even 
then borders may be made piecemeal. The bottom must be concreted, 
and have drains with proper outlet. A foot of good clean drainage, and 
over this place a third layer of turf, grass side downwards to prevent the 
finer particles of the compost from washing downwards. The compost 
may consist of turfy loam, rather strong but not very heavy, four parts; 
old brick and mortar rubbish one part, charred refuse and road scrapings 
in equal proportions one part, the whole thoroughly incorporated. Two 
feet depth of compost is sufficient, and when the border is raised to within 
6 inches of the intended level, the trees, if in pots, will require shaking 
out, in order that the roots may be spread over the surface of the new bed, 
which should be made firm and even. Place 2 or 3 inches of soil over the 
roots and then water moderately to settle it about them, place on the re¬ 
mainder of the soil and defer mulching for the present. No variety sur¬ 
passes Brown Turkey for general quality. 
Young Pot Trees. —Trees that were struck from eyes last season should 
now be encouraged with warmth and moisture, as future success depends' 
upon gettng an early and thoroughly ripened growth. Remove all ground 
suckers, stop the strongest shoots, and train the leaders to straight stakes. 
Insert cuttings or eyes of favourite varieties, and plunge in bottom heat. 
Plants raised from single buds always make the best pyramids, growing 
on clean straight stems. 
Pines. —In the fruiting compartments and others which contain 
plants about entering on that state the heating apparatus must be kept 
going, and as a consequence a certain amount of dryness will result unless 
sprinkling or syringing be vigorously enforced, but avoid sprinkling the 
pipes, taking advantage when they are least heated to well moisten the 
surroundings. Plants in light and lofty structures will need syringing 
much more frequently than those in low and damp ones. The necessity 
for syringing may be ascertained by examining the base of the leaves ; if 
the axils contain moisture none need be given that way until that existing 
is nearly exhausted. Avoid wetting the fruit during the flowering process, 
as discoloration of the fruit at the base of the flower proceeds from this 
cause. The Queen and other varieties for the summer supply will have 
the fruits emerging from the sockets of the plants. Every encouragement 
should be given to these to enable them to throw the fruit well above the 
foliage, attending to watering, bottom heat, &c., and affording a night 
temperature of 65° to 70°, and 75° in the daytime. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums —Plants that have had their stems hardened 
through being kept dry may safely be pruned without fear of their 
damping. These should be placed in a temperature of 50° to 55°, and 
syringed once or twice daily, according to the state of the weather, to 
assist them to again break into growth. Very little water will be needed 
at their roots until they reach this stage, when they may be turned out of 
their pots ; the old bulbs of roots reduced by one-balf, and the plants- 
again placed in the same or smaller pots. Young stock in 3-inch pots 
that has been preserved in good condition on a shelf close to the glass 
