February XI, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
119 
baskets, a piece of small-mesh wire net should be cut so that it will rest 
on the surface of the water or a little under it. On this place a layer of 
moss, which will not only keep the flowers in position, but the moisture 
rises in the moss as it would in a sponge, and keep the stems and foliage 
in contact with it fresher than they would be by simply having water in 
it. The same plan should be adopted with wide-topped vases. 
Amateurs who are not skilled in the art of bouquet-making will find a 
light wire frame, such as that represented in the annexed sketch, useful. 
Take three pieces of light stiff 1 wire about 
6 or 7 inches long, and bind them into the 
form as A. Make a ring of the same 
wire 5 or 6 inches in diameter, fit them 
together as shown at B, tying the stems 
together with fine wire. Fix over this 
some light small-mesh wire net and bind 
it so that it is convex in shape. Cover 
this with one whole piece of fresh moss 
taken from a moist stone or wall. Com¬ 
mence by first putting a border of 
Maidenhair Fern all round, putting them through tbe moss half-way 
between the centre and circumference, and use a little damp moss in 
tying the stems together. The flowers may then be put in—the larger 
ones first—thinly, and smaller sprays and Fern between. The advantage 
of such a frame to the inexperienced is that tying each flower as it is put 
in is not necessary, and that it can be stuck into the neck of a bottle or 
other receptacle, as occasion may require, without displacing any that are 
not secured.—R. Inglis. 
Fig. 20. 
SEASONABLE HINTS ON FLORISTS’ FLOWERS. 
After an experience of winter very unlike that of the last two years 
it will be perhaps not unreas mable to hope that we have seen the worst of 
it; for although we do frequently get much cold in February, yet the 
“ days lengthen and the sun strengthens,” and we are not so likely to have 
that damp cold which is most injurious to plants both under protection 
and out of doors ; that which causes softwooded plants to “ fog off ” in 
houses and frames, and many of the alpine plants in rockeries to damp 
off and decay, for they have not that warm covering of snow which keeps 
them fresh and lively under its protecting mantle. It has been curious 
to notice when there has been a good fall of snow how, when it has passed 
away, the Aconites, Hepaticas, Cyclamens, &c., have been progressing 
under it. But even if we have not seen the bad weather, there must now 
be activity amongst the growers of florists’ flowers. Operations must not 
longer be deferred, or the hopes of a year may be destroyed. 
Auriculas .—There is no period of the year at which these look so 
poor as now. The fine foliage which they had in summer has gone ; week 
after week outer leaves have withered and been removed, leaving, when 
the plants are healthy, a small solid heart from which the future plant 
is to be developed. Anyone unacquainted with them would pronounce 
them now to be miserable weeds. Not so the expert. Give him but a 
good solid plant, and he knows that in time he will have a luxuriant and 
flourishing one to show you. A severe winter, provided the frames be 
well covered, is not injurious to them—rather the reverse. It keeps them 
back, and does not stimulate them into premature growth and too early 
flowering. As I have of late said, my observations are not intended for 
exhibitors, but for those who grow for love’s sake, and, therefore, I do 
not advocate the necessity of keeping back such varieties as Taylor’s 
Glory, Acme, or most of the seifs, which come too early ; or forwarding 
Richard Headley or Hero, which are generally laggards. The grower who 
is not influenced by the dates of shows will have some enjoyment of his 
plants. 1 again last year dispensed with top-dresBing, and think my 
plants were just as well without it, owing to watering, stirring the soil, 
•fcc. During some months the soil in the pots gets wasted, and it will be 
necessary to fill them up when this is the case, using a simple compost of 
three-parts loam and one part of decayed cow dung. The surface should 
be well stirred, all signs of decaying leaves removed, and then if necessary 
fresh compost added. This is very different from the process of top¬ 
dressing, which used to be considered absolutely needful, and which was 
one of the events of the Auricula-grower’s year. Great care is also neces¬ 
sary, as the weather becomes less cold, to look out for the green fly, 
which should be carefully brushed off, or if it be too troublesome the 
frames or pit may be fumigated with tobacco. 
Carnations and Picoters .—Those in beds have had rather a rough 
time of it this year, but with the exception of a few of the yellow ground 
Picotees mine seem to have weathered it well. The beds will mw require 
examining, and if the plants have been loosened by frost they should be 
pressed down into the soil. Those in pots have kept singularly clear of 
spot, and it will soon be time now to prepare for placing them in the 
blooming pots. Pots should be cleaned, compost turned over and made 
ready for use, and everything got into a state of forwardness, for a time 
will soon come when out-of-door work will press heavily un gardeners, and 
everything of preparation that can be got through should be completed. 
Pansies .—Transfer these to their largest pots. It is a moot 
question whether they should be placed in large size 32’s or 40’s. The 
former gives more room ; but perhaps it will be found that by using 
smaller pots there is less danger of rotting the roots, while stimulants can 
be added afterwards. Every year sees the old Show varieties as they were 
called being elbowed out of the way by the more varied and robust- 
growing Fancies. The compost to be used must be simple and sweet i 
that used for Auriculas, with addition of a little leaf mould, will do very 
welt—say three parts loam, one rotted manure, and one leaf mould, with 
a little coarse sand or read grit to keep it open. 
Ranunculus .—These ought to be planted very soon. The 12th of 
February is the day that has been always regarded as the best time for 
the operation, but of course that depends very much on the state of the 
ground. At present it is so completely saturated with the heavy rainfall 
and sun of January that it will be very unlikely that it will be in a fit 
state for the operation at the orthodox time ; still, if a dry time set in we 
must be prepared for it. See that there are sufficient roots for the beds re¬ 
quired, and if not, the soonir the vacancies are tilled up the better. 
Gladioli .—The only thing that can be done with these now is to look 
through them and see that they are not emitting roots. When they are 
it is better to pot them into small pots at once without injuring the roots, 
and to plant from these into beds. It is only, however, where they are 
placed in bags that this is likely to occur. Where they are laid out on 
shelves or trays this does not happen. Where it i3 needful to add to the 
collection no time is to be lost.—D., Deal 
West Australian Timber.— Western Australia is very rich in 
good timber, which is now being largely developed. The forests of 
Western Australia cover an area as large as Great Britain. There are 
more than 30,000 square miles covered with Eucalyptus, 21 000 miles of 
which consist of tbe White Gum (E. viminalis) and Jarrah (E. marginata). 
The latter is a most important shipbuilding wood from its imperishable 
nature and immunity of attack from insects. The Tooart (E. gompho- 
cephala) and Red Gum (E. calophylla) are also excellent woods. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Let the pruning and training cf 
Peaches, Nectarines, and Apricots be done now, so as to have all finished 
before there is any risk of damage to swelling buds. Apricots answer 
well under spur-pruning with the branches presenting the appearance of 
parallel cordons. Avoid spur-pruning for Peaches and Nectarines, stout 
main branches trained fan-fashion well furnished with lateral fruiting 
wood of last year’s growth, robust and sturdy, as stout as an ordinary 
cedar pencil, of Tuddy brown hue and firm texture, and well set with triple 
buds. With plenty of such wood we may confidently anticipate a crop of 
really fine fruit this year, only take good care not to retain too many 
laterals. Better, far better, is it to tie in fruiting wood thinly than to 
have it crowded, and subsequently to have much thinning of fruit. If the 
fruiting wood has a slender attenuated appearance with only single 
blossom buds tbe fruit will be small and the wood growth weak. For our 
part we never retain such wood except in cases of necessity when fruit 
must be had ; but knowing that slender weakly growth is a sure indica¬ 
tion of debility, of hardened tissue, of sluggish sap action, we invariably 
behead the tree, cutting off all the branches to within 2 or 3 feet of the 
base. Tbe old soil is removed down to the roots and replaced with sound 
rich loam ; a subsequent growth of remarkable vigour usually follows, so 
that in two or three seasons the whole of the wall space is again covered, 
and the tree is in full vigour and fruitfulness once more. A gardener 
requires considerable experience, sound judgment, and some courage ere he 
can venture upon such bold measures with trees entrusted to his care. It 
is to strengthen his hands that we write this note, as well as to assure 
the owner of the trees that they will not be spoiled. 
Newly planted trees should always be headed back at the time of 
planting, our object before all things being to have the trees fully de¬ 
veloped and well furnished with fruiting wood as soon as possible. 
Planted in carefully made well-drained stations of rich loam with the 
branches all shortened to about 18 inches or 2 feet from the base, tho 
trees start freely and strongly into growth in spring, and if only we can 
contrive to screen the young foliage from cold cutting north-east winds, 
and keep the soil about the roots moist, they will sustain no check. Have 
no fear that the growth will be too robust. We have often had young 
fan-trained trees cover the greater part of the wall space allotted them in 
two years ; and although the main branches have developed s > much wood 
growth as to be barren of fruit buds, yet they have plenty of stout fruiting 
laterals. Let it be clearly understood that in the second year it is 1 possible 
to have a branch growih full 6 feet long with plenty of laterals well set 
with triple buds, from which a crop of fine fruit may be had in the third 
year. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Cherry House. —The temperature having been maintained at 40° to 
45°, and about 50® in the daytime regularly, the trees are now rapidly 
unfolding their buds, and before long the blos=om will have a beautiful 
appearance. Before the flowers expand it will be well to fumigate the 
house so as to make sure that the trees are free from, insects, or an appli¬ 
cation of clear rather strong quassia water will answer the same purpose, 
repeating at intervals of a day or two. Any alterations in the way of 
introducing fresh trees must be completed without delay, and taking 
precautionary measures, so that shading may be applied to such trees 
whenever sunshine is powerful ; and in order to promote the re-establish¬ 
ment of such trees as quickly as possible they should be lightly sprinkled 
more frequrntly, and other surrounding surfaces moistened. 
