120 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Ftbruary 11, 1886. 
Vines.— Early Vines in Pots. —When the bunches have been properly 
thinned ihe laterals behind them will require moderately close stopping, 
whilst those beyond or in advance of the fruit may be allowed more 
freedom provided there is space for their development and being tied 
down to the trellis. Guard against overcropping, quality being always of 
more importance than quantity, removing surplus bunches. Top-dress 
the soil with rich compost and decayed manure, to receive which have 
rims of zinc or lead 4 inches deep fitting within the rim of the pots, and 
to insure the passage of water through the pots. If the pots are standing 
on solid brick pedestals and fermenting materials are placed loosely round 
the pots, liberal supplies of stimulating liquid may be more frequently 
given than when they are tightly plunged to the rim, and in all cases 
where the pots are to remain undisturbed until the Grapes are ripe the 
roots may be allowed to follow the liquid through the loose brick 
pedestals and the plunging material, when the fruit will be fine in pro¬ 
portion to the number of feeders that extend beyond the pots. 
Earliest Vines. —Give close attention to stopping, tying, and thinning, 
and observe great determination in the removal of surplus bunches before 
they have time to rob the Vines; a judicious reduction in the number of 
bunches does not always mean a corresponding reduction in weight when 
the Grapes are ripe. Allow as much extension above the hunches as the 
space at command warrants, but only until the space is fairly covered with 
foliage, then keep the growth closely pinched. Afford liquid manure in a 
weak and tepid state to the inside borders, and mulch with short manure 
fresh from the stables to give off ammonia. Close the house early with 
plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
Early Muscats. —Where there is a house devoted to these, and assuming 
it was closed about the middle of December, the bunches are now 
approaching the flowering stage, and will require a night temperature of 
65° to 70°, with a rise of 10° to 15° by day, and the house may be closed 
at 80° to 85° when bright weather prevails. When they commence 
flowering it will be recessary to fertilise every bunch with their own or 
Black Hamburgh pollen, and the Muscats so treated usually set well. 
Early Muscats are much prized, and to have them ripe early or by June 
they require to be started at the time indicated, as to do them well they 
require some time in ripening, the wood being thoroughly ripened and 
the roots having the benefit of a warm inside border, which has been well 
mulched and the Vines well fed through the previous growing season for 
the purpose of keeping the roots near the surface instead of driving them 
down in quest of moisture and nutrition. 
Succession Houses. —Attend to disbudding and tying. Tie down the 
young shoots before they touch the glass, and allow the first to extend 
when it is thought desirable to cover vacant space with foliage. Remove 
all surplus bunches before they flower, and maintain a moderate moisture 
even afterwards by damping occasionally, keeping a rather warm 
atmosphere, but with a gentle circulation of air constantly. If there is 
any lack of moisture in the borders give a thorough supply before the 
flowers open. 
Late Houses. —Assuming that the Vines were cleared of the Grapes 
early in January, and that the inside borders have been top-dressed with 
fresh loam and crushed bones, a good supply of tepid water should be 
given, and a start made without much further delay, as it is essential to 
the Grapes keeping well that they be ripened thoroughly by the middle 
of September. Keep the strong rods in a horizontal position, and insure 
an even break by syringing three times a day. Keep the temperature at 
55“ by night, rising 5° to 10° by day, and an advance of 5° or more from 
sun heat. 
Pines. — Fermenting Beds. —Where these are employed as a means of 
giving heat to the roots of Pines, it is a usual practice to remake them 
just prior to the approach of winter, and to incorporate the materials 
employed in such manner as to make the heat generated by them as 
steady and durable as possible. Under ordinary circumstances these 
beds will now require similar attention, and should be renewed by fresh 
material as soon as circumstances permit. This kind of work is generally 
put off to unfavourable weather for other work, and in this there is 
nothing wrong provided the work is done at the right time in the proper 
manner. Opportunities that occur for this kind of work should be taken 
advantage of, at least it must be attended to, as at the end of this or the 
beginning of next month some suckers should be started, and the requisite 
attention given to such plants as require it, as repotting or otherwise 
shifting into larger pots such as require it, giving timely attention to the 
preparation of the soil, and other requisites of potting, so as to have 
all ready when the time arrives. The loam, especially when of a tenacious 
nature, should be had under cover to become dried. 
Fruiting Plants. —Strive to insure an invigorating condition to these, 
giving every attention to the moisture that is needed, and taking every 
advantage of gleams of sunshine to raise the temperature to 90° or 95°, 
closing early in the day. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Marantas. —Repot these plants at once, so as to give them a chance of 
becoming established before the sun has too much power. They delight 
in having sweet soil about their roots ; and in order to accomplish this, 
the old soil, or the greater portion of it, must be removed annually, or it 
is cortain to become sour and saturated from the enormous supplies of 
water the plants require when growing. Turn them out of their pots and 
work the old soil carefully from amongst the roots, and then place them 
in clean liberally drained pots. Some care must be taken to dispose the 
roots as evenly as possible amongst the soil instead of crowding them 
carelessly. The soil must consist of fibry loam and peat in equal pro¬ 
portions, with lumps of charcoal and a liberal dash of coarse sand freely 
intermixed. We have used about one-seventh of decayed manure in the 
compost advantageously, but prefer feeding the plants after they have 
filled their pots with roots, for the manure only assists in rendering the 
soil close and sour more quickly than would otherwise be the case. After 
potting, plunge the plants in brisk bottom heat until they have com¬ 
menced rooting and growing freely. The soil used for potting must be 
warm, and in an intermediate state for moisture, so that water at their 
roots can be withheld for as long a period as possible. This can be done 
when the plants are plunged and liberally syringed. If the sun strikes 
upon them after they have been repotted they are certain to flag, which 
must not be permitted, for if allowed to flag they are much longer before 
they become established in the new soil than would otherwise be the 
case. 
Alocasias. —These should also be potted, if they are to be in the very 
best condition, for as long a period as possible. To do these plants really 
well the whole of the old compost should be removed from their roots 
annually, for the very best material in one season becomes too much 
decomposed. Where the root portion of the stem of these plants is too 
long to allow of them being lowered in the pots in which they are to be 
placed, a good portion may be removed without injury to the plants. As 
growth extends they root freely from the collar and upper portion of the 
stem, and if placed sufficiently low in their pots at the commencement 
they can be top-dressed with rich material during the growing season. 
Alocasias do well in a compost of fibry peat and sphagnum moss in 
nearly equal proportions, with large lumps of charcoal freely intermixed. 
The former should predominate, and a good layer of the moss should be 
placed over the surface after potting has been completed. The pots or 
pans should be about one-third filled with drainage, and the centre of the 
plants well elevated above the rim. The material advised for potting 
should be pressed as firmly as possible into pots as the work proceeds— 
that is, if the crowns are separated. In many instances this need not be 
done, as the old material can be washed from amongst the roots without 
separating the crowns. If possible plunge them in bottom beat to g'ive 
them a start, and keep them in a close moist atmosphere. The root 
portions of the stem, if young plants are needed, may be cut up into 
lengths and laid amongst sandy soil in pans, and placed into the propagat¬ 
ing box until they break into growth, when they can be potted singly, or 
a number placed together in each pot. 
AntJiuriums. —Fine-foliage varieties, such as A. crystallinum, A. splen- 
didum, A. Warocqueanum, and others are most effective plants in the 
stove when well grown. To keep these in the best of condition they 
should be repotted annually, and their stems lowered into the pots if 
they need it. They should not he left unpotted for more than two seasons, 
for in that time the soil becomes very rotten about the roots, a state of 
things which should not be allowed to exist. If sphagnum moss is used 
with the peat, potting should be done annually ; if peat fibre with charcoal 
freely intermixed is used they will do for two years. We use sphagnum 
moss, peat and charcoal, and repot the plants every year. It is not 
necessary to give larger pots ; on the contrary, if the plants have attained 
a fair size the same pots may be used for several years in succession. 
When the plants are turned out as much of the old compost is removed 
from the roots as possible, and the remainder washed out. The pots are 
drained, the plants potted and treated afterwards the same as advised for 
Alocasias. The lower portion of the stem is also removed in the same 
manner if needed. 
Such Anthuriums as A. ornatum, very fragrant, A. Andreanum, 
A. ferrierense, and others are subjected to the same treatment as regards 
p tting at this season of the year. The second named soon grows away 
from its pots and becomes unsightly if not headed down. This may be 
successfully accomplished if a good bunch of moss is placed round the 
stem of the plant just below its main leaves, for in a short time roots will 
take possession of it, when the head may be severed from the stem and 
potted separately. The old stem will break freely into growth, which, 
when large enough, may be taken off and potted singly. These will make 
good plants in the space of one year. A. Schertzerianum should be kept 
at rest for a few weeks longer in a temperature of 50° to 55°. While in- 
this temperature keep the soil moderately dry. 
M 
HE BEE-KEEPER. 
SUPERING. 
The knowledge of how and when to apply supers is so 
important to all bee-keepers that it is impossible to dilate too 
fully upon the means now adopted in this country and 
America for obtaining the pure white comb honey, which, 
either in neat sections or other ornamental supers of all sizes, 
are so commonly seen in shops in our large towns, There has 
always seemed to be some mystery about this art of supering 
—for art it most undoubtedly is—which is even now not 
nearly as generally known as we would expect from the 
numerous books and leaflets so largely distributed in most of 
our English counties. That most bee-keepers can obtain 
some super honey is indisputable, but few are so successful 
