162 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ Ft bra ry 25, 18(6. 
made. The advantage of giving a queen, or a ripe queen cell even, will be 
manifest, for if a stock be swarmed on the 10th of ivlay artificially there 
will in ordinary cases be no queen hatched until the 24tb, and on an 
average, say four days will elapse before fertilisation is effected, and ten 
days after fertilisation, before egg-laying commences, thus it will be the 
19th of June before an egg is deposited. If, however, a queen is given, 
even if unfertilised, or even a ripe queen cell, on the 10th, on the 24th 
egg-laying will commence, and the stock will rapidly gain in strength. 
By all means introduce queens or queen cells as speedily as possible, 
observing usual precauions immediately after the issue of a swarm. 
In another article I will endeavour to show the best means of 
bringing a stock up to swarming point at the earliest possible moment, 
so this point as regards stimulating may be passed over without further 
comment. 
The method of procedure proposed with the frame hive is objection¬ 
able in every way. A strong stock is spoilt unnecessarily ; the nuclei 
are placed under the same roof, with entrances in close proximity, thus 
insuring the death of some of the young queens, who when returning 
from their marriage flights may easily mistake their own abode. The 
foundation cannot be drawn out, for there will not be bees sufficient, and 
amongst other objections the heat of the nuclei will be perilously reduced 
without necessity, so that the queens even if they emerged from the cells 
might very possibly be of inferior quality, and most certainly would be 
inferior to those raised in the usual manner under more favourable con¬ 
ditions. Far better to utilise the hive in the usual way, either as one 
large hive, contracted if necessary, or as two moderate sized ones, having 
the entrances as far apart from one another as possible. What I would 
suggest as an alternative to this method is to take an artificial swarm 
from the stock in the bar-frame hive in the usual manner, allowing the 
bees to raise their own queens in their own fashion. When the time has 
arrived when the queen cells are ripe the rest of the stocks may be 
swarmed, and one queen cell be given to each, and this may be done with 
little difficulty if only ordinary care is exercised ; carefully lifting out 
one of the frames on which queen cells are seen, cut off the cell with a 
piece of comb attached, taking every precaution not to crush the infant 
queen. This cell may now be placed in the stock from which a swarm 
has been taken, putting the queen cells pointing downwards between two 
combs, and fastening it in position, the bees when once they have missed 
their sovereign gladly accepting a successor thus easily given. By this 
means time is saved, and the stock from which the cells are taken does 
not suffer in the least if one cell be left. 
Unless swarms are desired they may be with almost certainty pre¬ 
sented, but if increase is desired the swarm may be safely packed in a 
skep, and the bees will be quite secure if a piece of cheesecloth be 
stitched over the mouth of the skep, and a plain label be annexed “ This 
side up.” The alternative covering you mention would no doubt answer 
the purpose, but cheesecloth is preferable and not expensive. For very long 
distances wire fly-proof netting may be necessary. 
The questions were of such general interest to bee-keepers that I have 
answered at greater length perhaps than the Editor wished, but if so, a 
desire to make my meaning plain must be my apology for trespassing 
upon his valuable space.— Felix.] 
TOMTITS y. BEES. 
On carefully looking over Mr. Hiam’s remarks on bees and their 
enemies, I was surprised to find that our able friend agreed that the little 
birds—namely, the tomtits, were harmless. I differ from Mr. Hiam on 
this point. I find them very destructive among our hives during the winter 
and spring months. I have frequently watched their movements among 
the trees during the last few days, which gave me every reason, I thought, 
for simply asking if other apiarians have found the birds to be destructive 
in the way I am about to mention. Our hives stand in the kitchen 
garden facing full south, so as to catch the morning sun, and to be sheltered 
as much as possible from the cold winter winds, which have been very 
trying lately for our little feathered and winged friends. No doubt 
Master Tommy has taken a greater advantage of the bees than he would 
have done if the weather had not been so severe ; but at all events one 
does not come amiss with him at almost any time when he sees the way 
clear. He will soon be down on the alighting board, and as soon as poor 
Apis puts in his appearance he is immediately seized and carried off to 
the most convenient place, which generally proves to be the nearest tree. 
There are some small Apple trees close to the hives, and on examining 
underneath them I was surprised to find so many lifeless bees which had 
been treated in the way explained. I should be pleased to hear if any 
other bee-keepers have found the black-capped tomtit to be destructive in 
the way I have mentioned.—G. H. P. 
%* All correspondence should be directed either to “ The Editor ” 
or to “The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon - 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Books (J. C.). —Mr. Cole’s work, the “ Royal Parks and Gardens of 
London,” can be had from this office, post free for 2s. lid. 
Trap for Woodlice ( G. F. B.). —There is no better trap for woodlicethan 
a boiled Potato wrapped in a little hay loosely, and placed in a small flower¬ 
pot laid on its side near their haunts. The woodlice will enter and feed on 
the Potato, remaining secreted in the hay, and being examined every morning 
they may be shaken into a vessel containing boiling water. This continued 
for a time will soon rid the house of the pests, having baits in proportion to 
the size of the house. 
Dendrobium nobile not Flowering {Idem). —Growths in place of flowers 
is a consequence of the imperfect ripening of the pseudo-bulbs, the plants 
being kept at too great a distance from the glass and not having sufficient 
light with a reduction of moisture so as to harden them. As the growths 
reach maturity withhold the supply of water, removing the plants into a 
cooler and drier atmosphere, with full exposure to light and sun, in order 
to thoroughly ripen them. Water should only be given during the resting 
period to prevent shrivelling. A temperature of 50° artificially is suitable 
during the resting period. All that is wanted to restore their floriferousnee 
is to secure a good growth and ripen it thoroughly. 
Peas for August ( A. B.). —You cannot ensure a supply of the best pods 
for exhibition in August from one sowing, because you cannot forecast the 
weather, and there is necessarily a considerable difference in the time in 
which Peas develope, according as the summer may be wet or dry, hot or 
cool. Telegraph and Duke of Edinburgh (which you name) we should sow 
quite at the end of April, making at least two sowings afterwards as 
the plants appear for affording pods towards the end of August. Evolu¬ 
tion is one of the best Peas for exhibition at the time named, and is one of 
the most continuous bearers. It is large, dark, green pods. 
Roses for Church Tower ( A. B.). —You will obtain the most satis¬ 
factory result from the hardier kinds, such as Dundee Rambler and Ruga 
of Ayrshire, Crimson or Amadis, Blush, Elegans, and Inermis of Bour- 
sault; Madame d’Arblay of hybrid climbing, and Felicite Perpetue, with 
Williams’ Climbing of the evergreen sections, William Allen Richardson 
(Noisette) is one of the best climbing Roses : fitting companion Roses are 
Reine Marie Henrietta, Cheshunt Hybiid, and Gloire de Dijon, all Tea- 
scented. Passiflora eoe.ulea is the name of the common hardy Passion 
flower. Clematis are very fine, and associate well with Roses. Jasminum 
nudiflorum and J. officinale majus would be suitable. The finest of the 
Ampelopsis is A. hirsuta, A. Veicchi is very attractive, and A. sempervirens 
has evergreen foliage but not very hardy. 
Vine Roots Unhealthy ( W- J.). —Some of the roots you have sent are 
quite dead. We have no data to guide us as to cause. It may be the result 
of ungenial soil, or of the foliage falling prematurely last summer through 
drought, debility, or the attacks of insects. We assume they are in an 
inside border, and if so that may have become too dry. You have done 
right in giving liquid manure, also in removing some of the old soil and 
placing fresh in contact with the roots. Cover this with good manure 
by-and-by, so that the soil is kept moist; roots will then form near the 
surface, and can then be fed with top-dressings of fertilisers washed in, or 
liquid manure. The border must also be moist right down to the drainage. 
You cannot start the Vines too steadily. Disbud in due time, so as to pre¬ 
vent any interlacing of the laterals and overcrowding of the foliage, and 
the Vines will improve. 
Various (E. //.).—Stout cuttings of the young growths of Hydrange 
paniculata will strike in pots of sandy soil surfaced with pure sand kept 
moist, and the leaves fresh in a warm propagating case or hotbed have a 
temperature of about 65°. The cuttings must not be very soft. Perhaps a 
better plan is to insert cuttings of half-ripened wood under handlights in a 
shaded position in the garden in the summer. We should try the former 
plan in your case, inserting all the young growths except two or three at the 
base of each branch, cutting back to these after taking the cuttings from 
the parts above. You may give more root room to your Marechal Niel 
Rose in the manner you propose now. We should also remove as much of 
the old soil as can be done without materially disturbing the roots, adding 
fresh turfy loam, pressing it down firmly. Give fertilisers or liquid manure 
after the plants start growing freely, never allowing the roots to get dry, 
yet the soil must not be saturated. Acacias are propagated by inserting 
cuttings of the young wood just when getting a little firm in sand under 
bellglasses in a temperature of about 60°. Quassia water will destroy 
aphides and it does not stain. Boil 4 ozs. of chips for twenty minutes in a 
gallon of soft water, then add three gallons of cold water, stir well, and it 
will be ready for use. 
Orchid and Gardenia Flower Buds Falling (IF. J. C.). —Probably you 
have kept the Orchids named too dry at the roots, and though at this time, 
of year liberal supplies of water are dangerous, yet the other extreme is 
fatal to the flowers. Give them as light a position as possible, and keep the 
peat and moss well moistened ; this may save those that remain upon 
the plants. The flower sent in the letter is too much crushed to be recog¬ 
nised. The Gardenias are Buffering in a similar way, either because they 
have had a check at some time, or because the bottom heat is insufficient. 
They should be plunged in bottom heat that can be kept at about 80°, with 
an atmospheric temperature about 10° lower. If the plants are syringed 
twice daily the buds will develope quickly. If the pots are full of roota 
