March 4 , 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
167 
side shoots as fast as they appear, and “ take ” the first buds pro¬ 
duced, which are early “ crowns.” As a general system it is best to 
allow varieties to assume their natural habits, the growth is then 
solidified, and all the wants of the plants met at the proper time. 
The plants are not topped at all, but allowed a free uninterrupted 
growth until the first natural break, which sometimes occurs about 
the middle of May or early in June, according to the time cuttings 
were struck early or late. Some varieties are earlier in their first 
stages of growth than others, and some, notably Madame C. Au- 
diguier, grow 4 feet high before they break, while some others do 
not grow more than 1 or 2 feet high before the first bloom bud is 
formed. No absolute rule can be laid down as to the time of the 
first natural break ; when it does occur the bloom bud must be 
rubbed out, and three of the strongest shoots selected. These must 
be securely tied to a stake as they grow, and as fast as side 
branches are produced they must be taken oft, retaining only the 
three shoots selected at the first break. At the point of each 
branch flower buds will form in due time, commencing early in 
August and continuing throughout September. Until the buds 
are selected which are to produce the best flowers all other buds 
and branches must be taken off as soon as this can be done without 
damaging the stems or points of the main shoots, thus concentrating 
all the energies of the plant to the three stems as selected at the 
first break. 
STANDARDS. 
Chrysanthemums grown as standards are useful for the decora¬ 
tion of the conservatory when placed in suitable positions on the 
floor. They are not so frequently grown in this form as in others, 
owing to the time and attention they require, and also because 
many do not approve of such close training as is required to pro¬ 
duce the specimens. The varieties specially adapted for growing 
in this form are not numerous, the incurved section being most 
suitable, and I give the names of some of the best. For the pro¬ 
duction of good standards the strongest cuttings should be selected 
early in December, and struck in the manner that has been previously 
recommended. In all stages great care should be taken that they 
do not become drawn up weakly. As soon as the plants are well 
rooted, shift them into larger pots and place them in cold pits 
or frames. When all fear of frost is past—which in the south of 
England is usually about the second week in May, and in the north 
towards the end of the same month—care should be taken to place 
them in such a position out of doors that a light covering can be 
thrown over them should frost occur, which would otherwise 
seriously cripple the points of the shoots. 
About the 1st of June they will require their final shift into 
11-inch pots, using the same kind of soil as before advised. The 
position selected for their summer quarters should be thoroughly 
exposed to the sun and air, but sheltered from east and south¬ 
westerly winds. Plunge the pots about half their depth in ashes, 
which keeps them firm and the roots cool during a hot summer. 
Exercise great care to prevent their being blown about in windy 
weather, as the roots are easily damaged by the continual rocking 
backwards and forwards of the plants. Three stakes firmly driven 
into the ground in triangular fashion, and connected to the stake in 
the pot, is a good system. Only retain one stem, and when this 
reaches the desired height—3 feet, or 3 feet 6 inches—it should be 
topped. If the plants grow to this height before making their 
natural first break, so much the better ; but if a break occurs 
earlier the shoots must be reduced to one, which is allowed to grow 
till the necessary height is reached. The topping induces other 
side shoots to form, which make the foundation of the future head. 
Reduce these shoots to four, and when these have grown 6 inches 
long again top them, continuing this process till the requisite 
number of branches is obtained to cover the trellis ; but topping 
should not take place later than the middle of June. The number 
of flowers each plant is expected to produce must guide the culti¬ 
vator as to the number of times the shoots should be topped ; it 
it a mistake to attempt to produce too many blooms on one plant. 
It is far better to limit the number, and have them of better 
quality. Plants of the small varieties of incurved kinds, such as 
Mrs. G. Rundle if the heads are grown, say, about 2 feet in 
diameter and about 1 foot 4 inches in depth, fifty blooms will be 
enough ; but in the case of White Venus thirty flowers on heads 
the same size would be ample. Of course, the plants can be grown 
much larger, but it should be remembered that the greater number 
of flowers the smaller they will be. 
The shape the plants are to assume must be determined, and 
the sizes I have given answer very well if the form is convex. 
Bend pieces of strong galvanised wire of the length named over, 
fastening each to a circular ring as the foundation, and securing 
all to the top of the centre stake. Fix the framework from the 
bottom wire to the centre stake with the aid of two pieces of stout 
wire stretched across.from one side to the other, as this prevents 
the head swaying about. Commence training the branches as soon 
as they are long enough, as the foundation is more easily formed 
at this stage than when the shoots are longer and harder. When 
the bloom buds are formed, which will be early in September, dis¬ 
bud to one on each branch, and when they are swelling give the 
plants their final tying, as the shoots which are bent have plenty of 
time to right themselves ; in this way severe training is not so 
easily detected as it is if done a few days before the plants are in 
bloom. Supply them freely with water at the roots during 
summer and at all times, and in the evenings of fine days freely 
syringe the foliage. As feeding the plants will be specially dealt 
Fig. 28.—Standard Pompon Chrysanthemum. 
with later on, it will not be necessary to dwell upon that point 
now. House the plants, and treat them the same as those grown 
for other purposes. 
The varieties I have found best for the purpose are the follow¬ 
ing :—Mrs. Gr. Rundle, Mrs. Dixon, George Glenny, Aureum 
Multiflorum, Julia Lagravere, Venus, White Venus, Mrs. Halibur- 
ton, Prince of Wales, Dr. Sharpe. 
Several varieties may be represented on one head if required, by 
grafting. Skilfully trained examples are occasionally seen in which 
blooms of the varieties are shown in concentric circles—the lower 
tier, say, Mrs. Rundle, the next Prince of Wales, then Mrs. Dixon, 
Venus, and George Glenny, with a central terminal flower 'of say 
