March 4, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
179 
the house to She other in horizontal and vertical lines under the ridge of the 
house, was a specimen of successful culture rarely seen ; it was planted 
last July. This plant is very liable to the attacks of red spider, and 
consequently it is seldom seen in good condition, because, as it is invari¬ 
ably grown against the glass and over other plants, it is liable to be 
neglected, and thus the red spider very often gets a good foothold before 
it is observed. It is a pity the flowers of the Ipomoei are so very short¬ 
lived, as the form of its flowers, with their delicate texture and soft rosy 
magenta tint, render it one of the most desirable of our stove climbers. 
A good specimen of Diosma fragrans was in flower in one corner of the 
house devoted to greenhouse plants. This is an old-fashioned plant, too 
much neglected at the present day, along with others of the same natural 
order. Why are not the Correas, Croweas, Eriostemons, Boronias, and 
•Choisya ternata seen more frequently in our conservatories and green¬ 
houses ? 1 fear gardeners are not entirely free from the charge of neglecting 
these plants. 
In pits heated by hot-water pipes plants for bedding out are grown 
in thousands. Pelargoniums are potted out of the beds and kept through 
the winter, cuttings being taken from them in spring. No doubt this is 
a good system to follow in high and cold situations, as it is generally late 
in the season before the beds are so dense with growth as to admit of 
many cuttings beiDg taken without the beauty of the beds being destroyed 
for the season—at least, such is my experience, and there is invariably a 
large per-centage of failures amongst cuttings taken so late. The Pelar¬ 
goniums at Wortley are now most luxuriant and ready to furnish a super¬ 
abundance of good cuttings. 
Amongst the Figs in pots was a variety Mr. Simpson speaks highly of. 
It appears he was much struck with the heaps of large luscious fruit of a 
particular variety which he saw in Paris in 1878. This variety, he says, 
is twice the size of Brown Turkey and equally as prolific, and certainly 
that is saying a great deal for it. If I caught the name correctly it is 
called “ Daphne d’Argenteuil.’’ 
The trees in the early Peach house were in full flower and presented a 
beautiful sight. Two trees occupy the whole front of the house. These 
were originally “ riders ” on stems about 5 feet high, but they have been 
turned into “ dwarfs ” by replanting them with their stems forming an 
angle of 15° or 20° with the ground line. This is a hint for those who 
would like to turn “ riders ” into “ dwarfs ” but do not know “ how to 
do it.” The kinds grown are Royal George Peach and Victoria 
Nectarine. 
The early vinery was showing fruit in abundance ; the laterals strong 
and foliage of good size and substance, altogether being in such condition 
as one expects to see them in the hands of such a master of the art. On 
the floor of this house were a number of pots of French Beans, Osborn’s 
Forcing being a favourite. 
On back shelves in another house was a quantity of Black Prince 
Strawberries coming into flower, that variety and Viscomtesse Hericart de 
Thury constituting the bulk of what are grown in pots at Wortley, and for 
all-round work and purposes certainly the Viscomtesse is difficult to surpass. 
Lapagerias are well grown at Wortley, having a span-roofed structure 
standing north and south for their acc - mmodation. Shoots like Asparagus 
are again making their appearance, and next summer and autumn will 
produce their clusters of waxy-white and crimson-coloured bell-shaped 
flowers. The principal plant more resembles (about the base) a bundle 
of faggots than aught else, so abundant and thick are the shoots. 
In the cool Orchid house Coelogynes were in strong force and in full 
flower. One variety appears to be more floriferous than another which 
has darker green leaves and pseudo-bulbs, but for intrinsic beauty, as 
they appear to the eye, the darker-hued one is the most preferable in my 
opinion. 
The lovely pearly-white Odontoglossum pulchellum was flowering very 
freely, and O Alexandra was there in quantity, as well as varieties of 
Cypripediums.—J. Udale. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The weather is still cold, and it will be a late spring. The dry con¬ 
dition of the soil has lately induced us to sow or plant several early crops, 
but there is no warmth in the soil, and probably the crops put in during 
March may in every way excel those planted in February. March, how- 
every, is a kitchen gardening month, and we must now be prepared to 
work on every favourable opportunity, 
Eably Carrots. — Many of our readers who have no frames or 
glass protection to use in getting up their first crop of Carrots will be 
eager to sow as soon as possible in the open, and this may be done any 
time now. Carrot seed, and the young plants as well, are very hardy, 
and if sown in light well-drained soil they will stand much severe weather 
without injury. We have always sown our early Carrots by the end of 
February or during the first week in March, and we never knew them to 
fail through being sown too early. The ground for their reception should 
be deeply dug and broken. A li - tie lime or soot should be dug in, but 
no manure of a rough character. When the eoil is not rich enough from 
previous manuring, we prefer artificial manure, strewing a little guano 
along each side of the rows as soon as the plants are thinned. This is 
an excellent stimulant', and it also helps greatly to keep the grub off. 
The rows should be 16 inches apart, and the drills about 1| inch deep. It is 
a good plan to place some old sandy soil over the seel, and when all has 
been completed a roller should be taken over the surface, as Carrots 
delight in a firm soil. We are always very particular in sowing the 
Carrot crop in question, as we find the roots from this crop useful until 
quite late in autumn. The French Horn is the earliest, then comes the 
English Horn, which is larger, and both should be sown now. 
Radish. —The first week in March always finis us sowing’our earliest 
Radish in the open, and sowing may now be general. Wood’s Early 
Frame and French Breakfast are two of the best to sow at this time. A 
small bed a few feet square will furnish a great many roots, and more 
need not be sown at present. The ground should be light and not too 
rich. When spring Radishes are sown on very rich ground they are sure 
to make more top growth and smaller roots than they ought to. Sow the 
seed thinly broadcast, and covered to a depth of half an inch. Small birds 
are very fond of Radish seed, and it is advisable to place a few wood hoops 
over the bed, covering with netting. All small seeds may be treated in 
this way. 
Turnips. —Early Milan is the earliest variety by many days, and it 
alone should be sown as a first crop. There is very little use in attempt¬ 
ing to sow Turnips in February, but we begin as soon as March is in, and 
although those sown now will flower before very large roots are formed, 
they will produce sweet little roots for a short time. Only a row or two 
need be sown now, and the quantity may be increased fortnightly. The 
soil must bo moderately rich, and the rows about 18 inches apart. A few 
short rows on a south border will be found more satisfactory than any 
out in the open quarters. Sow thinly, and when the soil is dry. 
Peas. —Dust those above ground frequently with soot or lime ; stake 
them as they come through the soil, especially in windy positions, as they 
will benefit by protection. A general sowing of those sorts which are to 
bear by the end of June and during July should now be made. Wrinkled 
varieties which are apt to decay in damp cold soil in the early part of the 
year may now be sown freely. Practise the trench system from this time 
onwards. Throw the soil out to the depth of 18 inches and about the 
same in width, then place a layer of manure to the depth of 5 inches or 
6 inches at the bottom ; put a layer of soil over this, sow the seed, and 
finish off by placing 2 inches more soil on the top of the Peas. After this, 
no matter how hot and dry the weather in summer may be, the Peas will 
continue growing and bearing abundance of fresh pods and tender green 
Peas. Nothing detracts more from the flavour of Peas than dryness at 
the root, and deep sowing is the only way to guard against this. When 
trench Peas are earthed up this is simply done by levelling in the soil 
along the edges, and when this is completed the roots will be so far below 
the surface that no ordinary amount of drought will injure them in the 
slightest. Telegraph, Pride of the Market, and Stratagem are three 
splendid main crop Peas. They are all excellent for exhibition. Champion 
of England and Veitch’s Perfection are two more of exquisite flavour, and 
they should also be sown in March. Do not be in a hurry to plant out 
Peas which have been raised under glass, as the weather is not in their 
favour yet. Indoor sowing is only advantageous when transplanting is 
done successfully. 
Potato Planting. —Early varieties of the Ashleaf type may be 
planted on south borders, but no choice varieties should be tmsted out 
yet. If the ground has been dug over before it will be nothing the 
worse of being turned over again, and planting may be done as digging 
goes on. Keep the rows from 20 inches to 2 feet apart, and from 1 foot 
to 16 inches from set to set. If the soil is friable and good a little 
artificial manure will benefit the crop, but where the soil is heavy and 
stiff a liberal introduction of leaf soil or any old refuse will be advan¬ 
tageous. No attempt should be made to plant the whole of the early crop 
for another fortnight or more, and those planted now should just be suffi¬ 
cient to keep the supply going after those planted in sheltered places 
lately are finished. Admit plenty of air to Potatoes now swelling in 
frames. Water sparingly, and take the lights off when the sun shines 
briskly. 
Tomatoes. —Where plants are wanted for turning out in May sow 
Laxton’s open air variety at once. It is excellent for open air culture. 
Pot young seedlings. Never allow them to become crowded or root- 
bound while young. Keep plants coming into flower full in the light. 
Give them plenty of liquid manure, but do not be too free with the syringe. 
First-rate early crops may be obtained from plants in 10-inch pots, and 
those which are growing freely should be put into this size as soon as 
possible. Our earliest plants this spring are those taken off as cuttings 
and rooted last October. They surpassed the seedlings! A fir-t sowing 
of many vegetables may now take place. The main crop of Brussels 
Sprouts should be put in, early and late Cauliflower, Cabbage, and Leeks. 
We fork up one of the narrow borders near the walk in the kitchen 
garden, open drills across, and sow the whole of these together. The rows 
are about 1 foot apart, and the plants are drawn from these and put into 
their main quarters. Unless Brussels Sprouts have a long season they will 
never develope fine and abundant sprouts. Spread out the general stock of 
seed Potatoes, Jand let them have plenty of light. Look over stored 
Carrots and Beetroot ; remove decayed roots, and break off any young 
growths which may have formed. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Early Houses .—As the trees have been 
biought forward almost entirely under the influence of fire heat, red 
spider will soon appear on those near to the hot-water pipes, and as this 
WORKJWHE \XfE EK,. 
