186 
[ March 11, 1886. 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
until it falls to dust. For this purpose it is best placed in an 
open shed, or it may be reduced to powder by pouring as 
much water upon it as will just bring it to that condition. 
To apply lime by itself is not one of the most enjoyable 
occupations, and the dust often renders trees and shrubs in 
close proximity unsightly for a time. Under these circum¬ 
stances we always contrive to have a quantity of old potting 
soil that has been passed through a fine sieve under cover in 
readiness, and mix equal quantities of the two together. 
Failing this we use any ordinary fertile garden soil, and 
when well mixed it can be applied without creating any dust. 
This should be spread evenly, just covering the surface, out 
of the barrows as wheeled on. Select a dry day for the 
purpose, and when the whole has been spread it should 
be roughly brushed in with branches secured parallel to two 
poles. If this brushing is repeated a few times during dry 
weather, and then well rolled down, very little will be seen 
after the first good shower of rain. The lime for a time will 
certainly be visible, but by the time the grass begins to grow 
it will have been washed down out of sight. A good dressing 
of lime will destroy the moss, and before the season is over a 
marked improvement in the condition and appearance of the 
lawn will take place. 
Our lawns are very subject to moss, and if they are not 
top-dressed about every third year it is certain to re-establish 
itself. We top-dress a portion annually, and by this means 
succeed in keeping the moss down and the lawns in present¬ 
able condition ; in fact, only one of our lawns were browned 
last year. We have tried several mixtures, but find the 
following one most satisfactory. Old potting soil is reserved 
and passed through a fine sieve, and to every twenty 
barrowfuls is added two of lime, one of soot, and one of 
wood ashes ; failing either of these, double the quantity of the 
soot or wood ashes is employed. To this about half a 
hundredweight of bone dust is added. If we have not suffi¬ 
cient potting soil, decaved leaf soil, old vegetable refuse of 
any description, or decayed manure, such as the refuse of 
Mushroom beds, are employed if they are in a condition to 
be passed quickly through the sieve. Sifting is not necessary 
as long as no very rough material is amongst that which it 
is intended to u?e. We sift the compost more for the sake of 
appearance than anything else, for when put on fine it is 
quickly worked down amongst the grass, and the lawn in a 
few weeks is presentable again. Three years ago we so treated 
a large lawn that was very poor, generally turned brown in 
summer, and was too full of mos3. The second season Clover 
sprung up in abundance, and last season it spread through 
the whole of the lawn, and was beautiful and green all the 
season. Previous to the top dressing I had not noticed any 
Clover in it. It may not be necessary to add lime for all 
soils, for the land may naturally contain sufficient, but for 
soils which contain only a very small per-centage, or next to 
none, lime will be found a valuable manure. This can be 
readily proved by giving lawns that are poor and full of moss 
a good dressing, for the improvement that takes place in one 
season is most marked, and its beneficial effects are not 
quickly exhausted. 
Nitrate of soda is very good for strewing on lawns 
during showery weather in spring ; it is very quick in its 
action but not very lasting. A good dressing will improve a 
lawn wonderfully in one season, and the amount of grass 
produced is astonishing compared with what was the case 
before its application. But the lawn is none the better for it 
the second season—such, however, has been my experience, 
and if I have observed rightly the lawns upon which it was 
used were left in a worse condition than before it was applied. 
I have tried several artificial manures recommended for 
lawns, and have always tested them by the side of bone dust. 
In several instances they have had the best of the bones for 
the first season, but in the end the bones have proved tho 
best and most durable. We have some difficulty in making 
as much wood ashes as we require for various purposes, or 
we should use them more largely for dressing lawns, for we 
have found wood ashes, being rich in potash, a very valuable 
fertiliser. 
The best time undoubtedly to apply top-dressings to lawns 
is from the middle of February to the middle of March. 
The present is an excellent time. There is really no com¬ 
parison in the appearance of a lawn that is top-dressed early 
in the season and one that is left until the spring has fairly 
advanced. When applied early it is well washed down to 
the roots of the plants, and directly they begin to grow their 
roots take possession of it, and its fertilising effects are 
visible from the first. But when lawns are top-dressed late 
in the season the material used ofcen becomes dust dry, it 
remains amongst the grass in this condition for a long time, 
and the results that may be anticipated do not show them¬ 
selves for some months—perhaps not till near the autumn. 
Much, however, in this matter depends upon the season, but 
where top dressing is required it should be delayed no later 
than the state of the weather will allow of it being done.. To 
keep a lawn in good condition by periodical top dressings 
does not entail much labour ; in fact, most of the material 
employed can be prepared when it is impossible for men to 
do outside work, and when this has been done the work of 
spreadiug it on the lawn and brushing it in does not entail 
much labour. However, the better appearance of the lawn 
during summer more than compensates for any labour occa 
sioned in carrying out this important work.—A Northerner 
ESTIMATES OF VEGETABLES. 
Brussels Sprouts. —These as a main crop are not very remu¬ 
nerative, but taken as an intermediate crop contribute in no small 
degree to the annual proceeds. Perhaps the most important of 
the Brassicas from a marketing point of view are Brussels 
Sprouts, they being taken between the rows of Asbleaf or other 
kind of early Potatoes. The usual practice in field culture is to 
plant a row of Brussels Sprouts between every two rows of 
Potatoes, the latter being 20 inches apart, and the space between 
each pair of rows about 30 inches, which admits of them being 
lifted expediiously, whilst the Brussels Sprouts make a sturdy 
growth, which is essential to the production of firm, close, heavy 
sprouts. We usually grow the imported, which gives firm com¬ 
pact knobs, and these are most esteemed, at least they bring 
the best prices from the salesman. Scrymger’s Giant also gives 
large firm sprouts, and those are recommended for general pur¬ 
poses. For early use Veitch’s Exhibition and The Aigburth are 
valuable, affording large sprouts, but they are not heavy, and do 
not fetch nearly as much money as the others. For late use 
Veitch’s Paragon is very superior, the sprouts being close, heavy, 
and of medium size, and these bring the highest price in the 
market. Brussels Sprouts usually have the tops cut off in 
February and sent to market. That throws the vigour into the 
remaining sprouts, and the crop is then sooner cleared off the 
ground. 
Cauliflower.— Early London and Walcheren are grown 
principally for the first supply of heads in summer from sowings 
made at the close of August, and very excellent results are 
obtained from them if the crop can be got in early; and for main 
crop Walcheren must take first rank, if indeed it have an equal, 
for general purposes. The one that takes best in the market is 
Autumn Giant, its large close heads telling most effectively, and 
the best returns are realised, particularly in autumn and early 
winter. Where liandlights are used Erfurt Mammoth is good 
a 3 an early variety; but Veitch’s Extra Early Dwarf Forcing 
and Snowball, the distinctness of which is questionable, though 
very valuable for private use are scarcely large enough for mar- 
ke ing, being placed at a disadvantage if they have to compete 
with large white heads of late Broccoli. 
Broccoli. —Snow’s Winter White takes precedence of all for 
winter use. Penzance Early White and Adams’ Early White, 
the latter being much the hardier, afford an excellent succession, 
closely followed by Cooling’s Matchless and Leamington. 
Veitch’s Model is superb as a late variety, and gives fine heads on 
dwarf sturdy plants. Champion Late White is an admirable 
sort, whilst Lauder’s Goshen is splendid in late April and early 
May, being very hardy, similar remarks applying to Ledsham’s 
Latest of All, an excellent variety for marketing. Broccolis are 
planted generally in gardens and fields between the rows of Pota¬ 
toes, and I find it best to insert the Broccolis between every 
alternate pair of rows of Potatoes, which allows the plants to get 
stronger, and, sturdiness meaning hardiness, the advantage is 
