March XI, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
201 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Bee subjects, and should never 
send more than two or three questions at once. All articles in¬ 
tended for insertion should be written on one side of the paper 
only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, and we 
do not undertake to return reiected communications. 
Books (M. Spiering). —We are not aware that an edition of “Paxton’s 
Botanical Dictionary ’’ has been published since the date you name. 
Probably the last edition of “Johnson’s Gardener’s Dictionary,” published 
in 1882, and comprising all plants introduced into gardens up to that time, 
may suit you. It can be obtained at this office, price 7s. 6d., post free to 
Hanover for 8s. 3d. 
Glasses for Roses ( Juvenis ).—We are not able to say where the “ cheapest 
glasses ” of the kind figured in an advertisement in the “ Rosarian’s Year 
Book’’ can be obtained. Possibly the advertiser might give you informa¬ 
tion, his main object, we presume, being to sell his Rose holders, and hence 
he shows their adaptability for the glasses in question for room adornment, 
as well as for tubes for exhibiting blooms. 
Soil from Violet Bed (J. T. S.). —If the soil dried in the bed in summer 
into any such hard lumps as we received, Violets could not possibly thrive 
an it. Such heavy adhesive clayey loam could only be added with advantage 
to very light dark-coloured soil rich in humus, of which the sample you 
have sent is destitute. Neapolitan Violets will not grow freely in heavy 
soil that is greasy when wet, and bakes like bricks in dry weather. 
Charcoal (J. P .).—Wood burned as you suggest can hardly be described 
as a ‘ substitute for charcoal,’” for it will be genuine charcoal, and as good 
as you can obtain elsewhere for potting purposes. It is very useful indeed 
tor mixing with soil for most kinds of plants, and none the worse for those 
of a softwooded nature if previously soaked in liquid manure and partly 
dried before using. It should be broken into small particles, mixing one 
handful with twenty of soil, and potting firmly. Larger particles are excel¬ 
lent for drainage. 
Rhodanthes in Pots (Old Subscriber). —Some of the beautiful examples 
sold in the market are produced by sowing seed in 5-inch pots, thinning out 
the seedlings before they touch each other, so that those remaining are not 
more than an inch apart; others are raised by transplanting sturdy seedlings 
about the same distance asunder, growing them near the glass in warm light 
pits. Great care is requisite in watering, and it is not a good plan to 
sprinkle the foliage, especially early in the season. 
Layering Lapagerias ( D.). —The whole of the moderately firm portions 
of the shoots are pegged in the soil, about half the length of each leaf pro¬ 
truding above the surface, producing an appearance as if a number of leaves 
were inserted in the bed. This is done in early autumn, and young growths 
push in the spring. You can layer some now, and roots will be emitted in 
due time, whether the shoots are notched or not, in a bed of sandy peat 
kept regularly moist. 
Marechal Niel Rose Unhealthy (A Young Gardener). —You appear to 
have injured the Rose by “ Bteaming ” the house, but why you steamed it to 
such an extent we are at a loss to know. Generally speaking, it is unwise 
to steam houses containing flowering plants, and especially at this season of 
the year. Time and judicious management may perhaps bring improvement. 
You say nothing about the age or size of the Rose, how it has been pruned, 
or whether it is in a pot or planted out; therefore we are not in a position 
to advise you how to proceed in its management. 
Calendarial Notes (B. Savili). —Most assuredly our notes are specially 
written every week by expert cultivators in actual practice, and we do not 
adopt the method, which is not unknown, of dishing up old calendars. We 
have plenty of Peas above ground that have been du3ted with soot, and we 
have sown Carrots and Radishes, also planted Potatoes, close to a wall 
facing south, where protection can be easily given, and we expect good 
crops in due time. No oDe, we presume, would either sow or plant ‘with the 
ground covered with snow. 
Marechal Niel Rose ( E. S.). —If you wish to have all the blooms pos- 
lble irrespective of the after condition of the plant you have purchased, 
only remove the miniature tips of the shoots, and as these are lt strong and 
well ripened," most of the prominent buds will in all likelihood produce a 
bloom, and if the roots are active in good soil, and well supplied with water 
the flowers may expand ; but in all probability the plant would be so ex¬ 
hausted as to be of little further use. The best plan to adopt for inciting 
growth after flowering would be to cut down the stems to the best wood 
buds you can find below the parts th it h ve produced flowers. If the per¬ 
manent well-being of the plant were the first consideration we should reduce 
the shoots now to considerably more than half their length with the object 
of promoting strong growth. 
Protecting Roses (Merchant). —Wi ; ps of hay or anything of that kind 
placed among and round the lower parts of the branches are very useful in 
severe weather, but they must be removed a3 soon as the frost departs. The 
browning of the ends of the branches is of no consequence, as this will be 
cut off in pruning. If the weather is mill towards the end of the month 
shorten all the shoots made last year to within about 3 inches of the base of 
each, cutting to good buds that point in the direction you would like the 
growths to take for producing well-formed heads or plants. By shortening 
to buds pointing inwards the growths are too crowded in summer. It is not 
necessary that every shoot be left 3 inches long, as some start from a lower 
part of the stem than others, and if strong may be left a little longer, but 
any that are weak should be cut more closely, say to 2 inches, medium 
shoots 3 inches, strong 4 inches, for newly planted Roses. We do notappre- 
hend injury to the stems, still you cannot err by letting your man twist 
borne small haybands, and coil these neatly round, allowing them to remain 
for a considerable time, for besides protecting the stems from frost now 
they conserve the moisture in dry weather in spring. 
• ^ lteni antheras (Idem). —Thousands of these plants are grown in boxes 
in the manner you propose, and anted from them direct to the beds in 
June, or when the weather permits. They should have a temperature of not 
less than 60°. The variegated Mesembryanthemum may be treated in the 
same way, but soil does not adhere to the roots so well. If you can dig 
some turves 2 inches thick or so, char the grass sides, cut into 2 inch squares 
inserting a cutting or rooted plant in each, with sand falling in round it, 
and pack these squares closely in boxes, covering with leaf mould or light 
soil, the plants will be in excellent condition for transplanting in due time. 
We are glad you find the Journal so helpful. Not a few persons hesitite to 
ask simple questions lest they should betray their own incompetency. It is 
j ust those who need instruction that we desire to aid. A reply on page 142 
on starting Vines, will afford you safe guidance. We will readily answer 
any questions on matters on which you mayneed instruction. 
Exhausted Vines (D., Hants). —As the Vines in the outside border are 
in such an exhausted state, and you have convenience for making a border 
inside the house, we should not lose a season in attempting to renovate them, 
but make a border 3 or 4 Get wide in the house, of good soil, building the 
front of the border with turves, procure some good canes at once and 
plant when growth commences, cutting out some of the old and apparently 
nearly useless rods to afford room for training young canes. It would not 
be advisable to shorten the young Vines for planting at this season of the 
year, as bleeding would most likely follow ; neither would it be desirable to 
allow all the buds to grow, as this way you would probably have a great 
number of very weak laterals. We should rub off the buds down to where 
it would be convenient for fresh growths to start, and not until these had 
attained a length of several feet should we remove that part of the canes 
divested of buds. In this way you may have very good young canes this 
year and very strong ones the next. With good cultural attention you 
would in fact “ gain a season ” in furnishing the roof with healthy Vines, 
ever “ waiting to see what the old Y ines would do this year, and making a 
new border in the autumn.” 
Annuals for Bedding (Oliver). —Much depends on the nature of the soil 
and district as to whether annuals can be depended on for yielding a con¬ 
tinuous display of flowers. In a thin soil and dry locality the charming 
annual Nemophila insignia is of short duration, whereas in cooler localises 
where the rainfall is greater it flowers during the entire season. As a rale 
hardy annuals are not well adapted for bedding purposes in summer. They 
are beautiful for a time, but often fail when extremely hot weather sets in, 
at a time when they are most wanted : yet with deep and rich soil, timely 
thinning of the plants, and picking off the flowers as they decay to prevent 
seed forming, beds may be rendered attractive. But there are annuals that 
are not flowering plants, and flowering plants that may be raised from seed 
that are not annuals, that you might employ for filling your beds. Sub¬ 
tropical plants, such as Zea japonica, Ricinuses Gibsoni and sanguineus, 
Wigandias, Eucalyptus globulus in a young state ; Cannabis gigantea, or 
Giant Hemp, and Melianthus major are very ornamental for certain beds 
and positions. They are all raised from seed sown under glass and the 
plants duly prepared for planting. Dwarfer plants similarly raised which 
are effective by their foliage are the Golden Feather Pyrethrum, Perilla 
nankinensis, Chamospeuce diacantha, and Dell’s Beet. Of flowering plants 
Petunias, especially the striped and barred varieties, make beautiful and 
lasting beds, the seed to be sown under glass and the plants grown on and 
prepared for planting out. Equally suitable is Phlox Drummondi raised in 
the same way. Verbena venosa sown at once and strong plants provided 
by May will flower until severe frost occurs ; it makes an effective purple 
bed. The ordinary florists’ varieties of Verbenas are readily raised from 
seed and flower freely in the autumn (the plants growing more freely than 
those from cuttings) and make good mixed beds. For large beds Zinnias 
are extremely gay. The seed should be sown under glass, but not too early, 
or the plants will be “ drawn.” Ageratums, both tall and dwarf, may be 
raised in the same manner as Petunias, and they will flower freely the first 
season. Stocks may be raised the same as Zinnias ; they make gay and 
fragrant beds, but do not continue entirely through the season. Asters 
make gorgeous autumnal beds. The seed is usually better sown thinly in 
very rich light soil under handlights about the first week in May than sown 
in pots placed in heated structures at an earlier date. Tagetes signata 
pumila raised the same as Stocks makes a close yellow bed of long con¬ 
tinuance. Of hardy annuals not many flower for a great length of time if 
the summer proves hot and dry. The best for bedding is Saponaria cala- 
brica, which makes the most charming pink beds imaginable. The white 
variety also makes pretty beds or edgings. Sow in March in the beds, and 
thin out the plants so that they can assume a branching habit. For a rich 
blue or violet bed no annual equals Convolvulus minor tricolor. Sow and 
treat the same as advised for the Saponaria. By picking off decayed flowers 
and applying liquid manure as required the plants flower throughout the 
season. For producing scarlet, crimson, yellow, and buff beds grow the 
different varieties of the Tom Thumb section of Tropseolums, often mis¬ 
called Nasturtiums. The seed may be sown in the beds or in rich soil in the 
reserve garden and the seedlings transplanted. Godetia Lady Albemarle 
makes a singularly rich bed, but does not always continue so long as is 
desired. In some of the beds you might plant such gay and free-growing 
Gladioluses as brenchleyensis and some others which would grow above 
such plants as dwarf Stocks and other annuals, and would commence 
flowering when the annuals were fading. Then for small beds Lobelias of 
the blue and mottled varieties are very suitable. With such plants as we 
have named, properly raised and well cultivated, you may render your 
garden gay in the manner which you appear to desire. It is of great 
importance, however, to remember that when annuals are grown so thickly 
that they cannot branch and spread, their beauty is necessarily of short 
duration ; for when each plant has only room, as is often the case, to pro¬ 
duce one stem, the flowers at the summit cannot be succeeded by others to 
continue the display. 
Names of Plants.—We only undertake to name species of plants, not 
varieties that have originated from seed and termed florists’ flowers. 
Flowering specimens are necessary of flowering plants, and Fern fronds 
should bear spores. Specimens should arrive in a fresh state in firm 
boxes. Slightly damp moss or soft green leaves form the best packing, dry 
cotton wool the worst. Not more than six specimens can be named at once. 
Woodbine). —Acacia longifolia. 
