March 18, 1886.] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
215 
the intervening space with the compost. Pots should be thoroughly 
drained, the largest having smaller sized ones inverted in them, and 
the space round these filled with clean potsherds, or these can be used 
alone. For all large specimen epiphytal Orchids the drainage should 
be two-thirds the depth of the pot; for terrestrial Orchids less will 
be required according to the strength of the individual plant and the 
character of the species. Large pieces of potsherds are arranged 
hollow side downwards, but charcoal, or rough burnt clay, such as is 
termed ballast, can bo used for the same purpose. Over this place a 
layer of sphagnum, and then put the plant in position, filling with 
the compost which may have been either previously mixed, or the 
peat, &c , can be introduced separately, firming it amongst the roots 
sufficiently to hold the plant steady, but not pressing it down as is 
practised with other plants. In the case of large heavy Gattleyas, 
Ltelias, &c., it is sometimes needful to employ a few pegs, or a stake, 
to assist in holding them steady until established. It is advisable in 
most cases to raise the base of pseudo-bulbous Orchids slightly above 
One reason for this is probably due to the fact that in baskets they 
do not suffer quite so quickly in hot weather, whereas blocks need 
very frequent attention in watering during the summer, or the plants 
may be injured beyond recovery. When an Orchid is to be grown 
on a block a little moss may be placed round the base of the plant, 
and the latter firmly fixed by a few pieces of copper wire passed 
across and nailed to the side or back of the block. In some cases 
the moss is not requisite, but it is safer for beginners to employ a 
little at first. 
The time at which these operations require to be performed varies, 
for in their native countries Orchids commence their growth at very 
different periods ; but it may be taken as a general rule that as soon 
as root or leaf growth is commencing potting or basketing can be 
safely done. In many species the commencement of activity is 
readily seen in the protrusion of young roots at the base of the stem 
or pseudo-bulb, and in others new growths will be seen pushing from 
the lower portion of the plant. The adoption of lower winter tem- 
Fig. 40. —Aralia Chabbieiu. 
the rim of the pots, making an even rounded surface of peat, covering 
this with the selected sphagnum previously mentioned. Some have 
tried other native mosses, such as are usually found in abundance in 
woods or shady places, for this purpose, and in the cool houses they 
succeed well, having a pretty and more diversified appearance than 
the sphagnum ; such material, however, needs very careful examina¬ 
tion, or many destructive insects may be introduced with it. For a 
number of the moie delicate epiphytal Orchids grown in baskets, 
potsherds, charcoal, or a few lumps of peat are sufficient, or the two 
former alone, rather loosely arranged, especially for species of the 
Stanhopea and Acineta type, which force out their flower spikes from 
the base in a downward direction. Orchids grown in the small 
shallow perforated pots already noted require scarcely anything but 
peat and a surfacing of moss. Blocks are not so frequently employed 
now as formerly, but there are some plants, like Cattleya citrina for 
instance, which from the nature of their growth are much better on 
blocks than in pots or baskets ; but there are comparatively few strong¬ 
growing species which cannot be more satisfactorily grown in baskets. 
peratures necessitates resting most Orchids which need that treatment 
in the duller months of the year, consequently growth generally 
commences in February and March, when the majority can be safely 
potted. But the rule previously given can be followed as regards 
tho3e that start at other times ; but for such as are growing to some 
extent all the year, like Odontoglossums, the potting season may be 
regulated according to convenience, and Orchids of the Vanda and 
Aerides type may be so treated whenever they are not in active 
growth, but preferably just before they start, and the early spring will 
be found the most satisfactory time for the majority. Some Orchids 
require repotting or basketing much more frequently than others, the 
strong, quick-growing species needing attention every year; the slower, 
more delicate sorts often thrive well enough for several seasons with 
only an occasional renewal of the surfacing. The latter should, 
however, be looked to every year, as it improves the appearance of 
the plants very much, and is beneficial to the young roots, which 
dislike old decayed materials about them.— An Amateur. 
(To be continued.) 
