March 18, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
219 
A Kitchen Gardener” says he ■would undertake to sow any kind of 
1 ea on the 14th March, and exhibit it in prime condition the 14th of 
July. Perhaps he could do so in his district, but he could not do so here 
without the help of a glass house or frame. This part of Lincolnshire is 
perfectly flat for more than ten miles around me on three sides, and we 
are only four and a half miles from the sea on the other, so that we have 
no hills to shelter us, and are subject to many cold easterly winds direct 
from the German Ocean. If I wished to exhibit a collection of second 
«arly Peas, such as Telephone, Stratagem, Pride of the Market, Telegraph, 
Wordsley Wonder, House’s Perfect Marrow, and Evolution, the last week 
I? “ “ ne or or second day of July, I should sow the seed about 
the first week in November, and if the following spring was no more 
favourable to vegetation than the past seven have been the Peas would 
not be ready any too soon for exhibiting the last day of June. I am 
-writing from several years’experience, so that “A Kitchen Gardener” 
may see that it not only takes seven months to grow some Peas to per- 
ection, but nearly eight. I may add that I could sow the seed of the 
a ^ >eas on Uth day of May, and have them ready for 
exhibition by the 14th day of August, which would be about thirteen 
weeks.—H enry Marriott. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The Weather and Work. —Readers who may have thought our 
previous notes and recommendations were not in accordance with the 
unusually severe weather experienced of late ought to take into con¬ 
sideration our advice to carry out the work on “ every favourable oppor¬ 
tunity ; ” and much as we should like to give an accurate forecast of the 
weather at the beginning of each fortnight, we have to be contented with 
recording our practice and recommending operations which ought to 
have attention, always, of course, with the understanding that the 
weather is suitable ; and when such is not the case, overdue sowing and 
planting must be accomplished on the first favourable opportunity. 
Amateurs with nobody but themselves to grow for, and no one to blame 
them if their crops are late, may not be troubled in late cold springs, but 
gardeners, and especially those in small places, know how important it is 
that their supplies be produced as soon as possible. In instructions, how¬ 
ever, which appear in this column it can hardly be expected that the 
operations should be practised on the same day or week in every part of 
the country, as while in many parts of the south of England and other 
favourable localities they might be carried out to the letter, it might 
probably be weeks before the same work could be done in the north of 
Scotland; but although our notes are given in season they must be 
applied according to circumstances. So far March has been the most 
unfavourable third month of the year we ever experienced, but Carrots, 
Reas, Beans, Onions, Leeks, &c., sown in February were put into the 
ground when it was in such good condition that we feel sure the young 
plants will appear strong and healthy as soon as the weather improves. 
It is surprising how much frost and cold weather such seeds as those 
named will pass through without being injured, only provided they have 
been sown when it was dry and covered with good soil. 
Potatoes. -From the middle of March to the beginning of April is 
a very general time for planting the bulk of early Potatoes, and if the 
weather continues to prevent their being planted see that the young 
growths now forming on the tubers are not injured or drawn up weakly! 
Spread out the tubers in a sing'e layer in the full light, but safe from 
frost, and the shoots will soon become dwarf, stout, and dark green in 
colour. It is a great advantage to have the tubers furnished with these 
at planting time, especially in a late spring. Potatoes in frames have 
been covered closely at night for some time past, as the least frost is 
fatal to them, and the darkness is not in their favour, especially as little 
air could be admitted when the wind was cold during the day, but do not 
pamper them a day longer than is necessary. Where tubers were planted 
m south borders or at the base of walls in February they will still be 
safe, but the sun during the day may induce them to grow a little, and 
where there is any chance of their being near the surface a spadeful of 
leaf sou or a forkful of manure should be placed over each set. 
CAULIFLOWER.— Before the last severe frost set in we had planted 
out a number of autumn-sown plants from the handlights, and they have 
muttered rather severely, but others still in the frames have been covered 
At night and they are very robust. As soon as it thaws and the soil is in 
good oraer thsy will be planted out, but seed sown in the open some time 
ago will be a long time in producing large plants, and to succeed these in 
traraes a quantity of seed should be sown under glass at once. We have 
lust sown a box of each of the following varieties—Voitch’s Extra Early, 
button s King, Eclipse, Webb’s Mammoth, and Veitch’s Autumn Giant. 
We shall have at least 200 plants of each, and this will make a good batch 
lor midseason supply. 
MlNT.-If there are any weeds on the surface of the Mint bed pick 
■tnem off, and then spread manure over the surface to the depth of 
t inches. This treatment will produce Mint in abundance and of the 
Imest quality. 
Sage. —Where plants of this were raised from seed last spring, and 
they are now growing close in the seed rows, lift every one of them and 
plant them in good soil, allowing 18 inches from row to row and 1 foot 
from plant to plant. 
Sweet Basil. —This is much valued in flavouring, but it is tender 
and must be raised under glass. Plants are easily raised from seed, and 
if a pinch of it is sown in a 6-inch pot many plants will soon appear, and 
as soon as they can be handled they sheuld be transplanted into boxe3, 
where they will soon grow large, and as each shoot is taken off a greater 
number will come. 
Celery. —Early plants which are now quite visible should not be 
kept in too much heat, as this has a tendency to ruin them. When about 
half an inch high transfer a number of them to boxes, giving them rich 
firm soil and keep them from 2 to 3 inches apart; place them in a gentle 
heat, and gradually harden off until they are planted out in May. Sow 
more seed, as those raised now are what will come in for the autumn 
supply. The seed as a rule germinates freely, and a little sown moderately 
thick in a 6-inch pot will furnish over 100 plants. Celery is very partial 
to water and should never be allowed to suffer from drought. 
Turnips. —Make a good sowing of Sutton’s Early Snowball as soon 
as the weather will allow. Plants raised after the middle of March are 
not so liable to run prematurely as those sown earlier, and those we 
recommend to be sown now will make a useful crop. 
Peas. —Autumn-sown Peas are about 3 inches above ground, but 
they have made little progress lately. They have not suffered much 
either, as before being staked securely they had a mound of earth thrown 
up on each side of the row, and this has been a great help to them. Those 
sown in December were visible a month ago^ and they are no further 
forward now. Others sown in February have not appeared, but the seed 
is sound still and will remain so, and as mild weather would cause them 
to grow very fast, a good succession should be sown on the first oppor¬ 
tunity. The sowings made now will he giving the supply in July, and as 
they do not remain long in good condition at that season, sow often and 
liberally. 
Hotbeds. —These are very useful, especially in gardens where there 
are no glass houses, and as Vegetable Marrows, ridge Cucumbers, &c., will 
soon have to be raised, collect material for the bed and form it as soon as 
possible. Leaves, stable manure, and anything that will ferment may be 
used in its construction. The whole should be mixed together and allowed 
to lie in a heap for a few days, then turn and let it rest again for a short 
time, when the bed may be made up. It should be a little larger than 
the frame which is intended to go on it, and it should be made very firm, 
as this is the only way of getting it to keep the heat for a very long time. 
Where hotbeds are plentiful they may be used for raising Lettuce, Cauli¬ 
flower, Leeks, Onions, &c., just now, and the best way of treating them is 
to put a layer of good soil inside the frame on the surface of the bed and 
sow the seed on the top of this. 
Beans. —Make a good sowing of Carter’s Leviathan, which is an 
excellent Broad Bean. Syringe those freely which are coming on under 
glass. Cooling’s Ne Plus Ultra, which we sowed ten weeks ago, is now 
bearing heavily. Sow a large batch of more seed of this variety or Carter’s 
Long Sword, as vegetables are sure to be scarce in April and May. As 
soon as the young plants get into the rough leaf they will bear hard 
forcing, and may be pushed on freely. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. — Early Rouse .— The young shoots 
having been neatly tied in close to the base, and the superfluous growths 
removed or pinched back to form spurs, tbe trees should be allowed to 
make free growth until they are sufficiently advanced for the general 
tying down to the trellis. Any shoots that show a tendency to become 
too strong should have the points pinched out before they have time to 
disturb the balance of the trees. Proceed with thinning the fruits, which 
must be regulated by the strength of the trees, always bearing in mind 
that a liberal per-centage must be left for removal after the stoning period. 
Size and quality being the first consideration, one Peach to every square 
foot of trellis covered with foliage will be found a heavy crop, and any 
excess will affect the weight of each fruit, and shorten the lives of the 
trees by impairing their vigour. When the weather is bright the trees 
will require syringing with tepid soft water twice a day, but in dull 
weather the syringing must be omitted or done sufficiently early to allow 
the trees to become fairly dry before night, but when syringing is not 
practised a genial condition of the atmosphere should be secured by 
damping in the morning and again before night, the first with tepid 
water and the second with liquid manure. Mulch the surface of the 
borders with short manure, and supply tepid water, afterwards tepid 
liquid manure. On fine mornings turn off fire heat early, and increase 
the ventilation with the advancing temperature. Keep a steady night 
temperature of 60°, with a rise of 10° to 15° by day until after the fruit 
is stoned, when the ripening may be hastened, if necessary, by a higher 
temperature. 
Succession Houses .—Disbud the trees when sufficiently advanced, and 
pinch for spurs, and cut away all shoots that are not likely to be wanted 
for the support of the present or the production of the next year’s crop of 
fruit. In disbudding, commence at the extremities of the trees, and work 
gradually down to the base. Remove small or badly placed fruits as soon 
as the most promising for the crop can be decided upon. A temperature 
of 55° to 60° at night, according to the advanced condition of individual 
houses, will be sufficient, with 10° to 16° rise by day. Syringe twice a 
day, and water as advised for the early house. 
