260 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ April 1, 1886. 
commendable, as long-lost or new varieties may be thus secured, as 
Mr. Hartland, above named, secured Rip Van Winkle, which Mr. Peter 
Barr at first considered might be the double form of the Lent Lily. Rather 
curious bulbs of N. incomparabilis Leedsi, an! I may add N. bicolor 
Horsefieldi, ripened ; taken up, and potted here, bloomed splendidly a fort¬ 
night before those imported. This is worth remembering.—W. J. Murphy, 
Clonmel. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
SPRING has come at last. Rain has fallen freely of late; the tem¬ 
perature, night and day, has risen rapidly, and a continuance of such 
weather will soon enable us to bring up all arrears. Since the snow dis¬ 
appeared frost ceased, and the atmosphere has become humid and mild ; 
it is simply astonishing how much young Cabbage, Onions, Spinach, and 
other vegetables have advanced. They have quite regained their healthy 
appearance, and no one could tell that they were the same plants as were 
so much shrivelled in the frost some weeks ago. Where operations are 
much behind, as they will be in many instances, there may be a tendency 
to put crops in hurriedly and imperfectly, but the practice should be 
avoided, as it has a decided bearing on the quality of the crops throughout 
the year. The greatest economy results from doing everything well. 
Mustard and Cress. —Where the winter has dealt hardly with 
autumn-sown Lettuce and other salad plants there may be a prospect of 
spring salading being very scarce, but a good supply of Mustard and Cress 
will give great satisfaction and compensate for other deficiencies. Sow 
the seed on the surface of inside Peach or vinery borders or in shallow 
boxes; growth will be rapid in any rich soil where the temperature ranges 
from 55° to 70°. 
Onions. —Sowing these should be completed as soon as possible. As a 
rule all sorts are placed into very rich soil; indeed, it is generally con¬ 
sidered almost useless to sow Onions in poor soil, but this is a mistake, as 
all Onions intended to be kept through the winter and into the following 
summer cannot be too firmly grown, and much sounder bulbs are produced 
on poor soil than in rich material. The bulbs are small in poor soil, but 
they mature thoroughly, and these are the qualities to insure their long 
keeping. Onions in rich soil grow freely and generally form large bulbs, 
but frequently they are thick in the neck and do not ripen well, and we 
would strongly advise all who wish to grow medium-sized bulbs of the 
highest keeping properties to sow and grow on poor soil. No good Onions 
will ever be grown in a shady position; in fact, they cannot be too much 
exposed to the sun. Allow 15 inches from row to row, sow thinly, and roll 
the ground firmly afterwards. Some Onions we sowed about the middle of 
February were kept at a standstill during the recent severe frost, but they 
are now showing all along the rows. Where seed was sown in boxes 
under glass harden off the young plants as soon as they are 1 inches or 
5 inches high, that they may be ready for planting out in a few weeks. 
Potatoes. —It will now be safe to plant these in all parts of the 
country, and garden and all early crops should be placed in as soon as 
possible. Use plenty of ashes and leaf soil where the soil is heavy, and 
where manure is scarce a sprinkling of guano round each set is good. 
As soon as the young shoots appear above ground on the early border or 
elsewhere draw a little soil over them to keep them under cover and away 
from frost as long as possible. 
Globe Artichokes. —These are just beginning to grow. Where 
light material was put round them as protection in the autumn move this 
away and supply rich manure. Do not fork or disturb the roots, but as 
the manure is washed down to the roots they will receive the full benefit 
of it. 
Beet. —The seed and young plants are somewhat tender, but where 
the supply of old roots is deficient young ones should be secured as soon 
as possible, and a few short rows of the Turnip-rooted variety may be 
sown. This is much earlier than any of the long-rooted sorts, and the 
bulbs will be ready for use in about two mouths after sowing. 
Jerusalem Artichokes. —These should be grown in every garden, 
as they are most simple in culture, productive in results, and useful. They 
may be grown in almost any Boil or in any situation. A peek or two of 
seed should be brought in now and planted, and where they do exist lift 
every one of them. Select all the large ones and store for use, but the 
smaller tubers should be replanted. As they grow tall from 2 feet to 
8 feet should be allowed from row to row, and 1 foot from set to set. 
They should be planted like Potatoes, and from 4 inches to 6 inches below 
the surface. 
Peas. —Autumn-sown Peas will, in many instances, be a failure this 
spring; ours have suffered severely, but some of Ringleader, which were 
sown in the open in the first week of January, are 2 inches high and 
looking well. Others which were sown in turves under glass since then 
are 3 inches and 4 inches high, and they are now in a cold frame with ihe 
lights off during the day and only on at night; and if we could make 
sure of the weather we would plant them out, but remembering past 
experience we will keep them in for another week or so ; but all Peas 
raised under protection should now be hardening, and great care must be 
taken that this is not done too quickly or they may be checked and their 
earliness fail to be an advantage. Sow more seed, earth up, and stake 
all early crops. 
Brussels Sprouts.— These have withstood the severe winter better 
than any choice winter green ; and as they are such an excellent vege¬ 
table from October until April they should be grown by all. Many small 
garden owners shun them under the impression that they are difficult to 
grow, but they are no more so than Cabbage, and should just be as 
common. Two or three years ago we advised the head gamekeeper to try 
a batch in his garden, and he was so well pleased with the growth they 
made, and the long succession of excellent vegetables he secured from 
them at a season when he was often without green vegetables, that they 
have become a favourite winter crop. The secret of having them good is 
to sow early and have the plants well up by June or July ; then they 
have the autumn to form the sprouts. The first week in April is a good 
time to sow. A seed bed a yard square or thereabouts will furnish many 
plants, and when sown together in a small patch it is a simple matter to 
transplant them into their bearing quarters when they become large 
enough to be put out. 
Parsnips. —Some sow these very early, but we have generally found 
those sown in April as good as those sown in January or February by the 
time November came, which is early en ugh to have Parsnips ready. Tne 
Student is our favourite variety. It is not so large as some, but it is first- 
rate in quality. Moderately rich, not very stiff 6oil suits Parsnips best, 
and the rows should be 18 inches apart at least. There is no use, how¬ 
ever, in attempting to get fine long roots from shallow soil ; and where 
the soil is not more than 1 foot in depth we would advise the Turnip- 
rooted variety to be grown. This is really a useful little-known variety. 
Seakale. —Where plants were taken up to force and were put into 
pots and boxes they should be hardened off in these, and as soon as the 
young growths which are being emitted from the crowns are capable of 
bearing exposure plant them. Those which we are planting now will 
come in for forcing again the winter after next. Where the crowns are 
small they are planted without being disturbed, but where they are large 
and several shoots are growing on each they may be split into pieces, each 
one with a growth on the top, and plant in this way. The soil can hardly 
be too rich for them, and they should be put in rows, allowing 15 inches 
from plant to plant and 3 feet from row to row. Roots which have been 
forced in the ground, and ate too close together, should all be taken up 
and replanted. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Melons. —Stopping,thinning,and tying the shoots will require frequent 
attention, which must be timely, as if neglected for only a few days the 
shoots will beco ne overcrowded. Plants swelling their fruit will require 
water at the roots, and if bottom heat be afforded by hot-water pipes a 
thorough soaking should be given. If the roots of the plants are in 
shallow or narrow borders, and drainage ample, tepid liquid manure in a 
weak state should be applied whenever the application of water to the 
roots is necessary, which will, in a great measure, compensate for the 
limited root-action. Ventilate in accordance with the state of the weather, 
commencing at 75°, or at 70° on fine mornings, and increase it with the 
rising temperature, maintaining the temperature at 65° to 70° at night, 
70° to 75° by day from fire heat, and 80° to 90° in the daytime from buu 
heat, closing at 85° to 90°, and so as to run up to 95°, with plenty of 
atmospheric moisture, a high temperature with plenty of moisture being 
essential in houses or pits where Melons are swelling. Support must be 
given the fruit in good time, a piece of half-inch thick deal board, 
6 or 7 inches square, and suspended in a sloping position so as to prevent 
the water lodging, securing it by four pieces of wire from the trellis. 
Succession plants will need constant attention in training and regulating 
the growth. Train with a clear stem to the trellis, rubbing off the side 
shoots so soon as discernible, and do not stop the leading shoot until it 
has grown two-thirds across the trellis. Every alternate lateral on 
opposite sides of the leading shoot should be removed, and this will pre¬ 
vent the crowding that is too often allowed. The laterals will show fruit 
at the second or third joint, and should be stipped one joint beyond. 
A somewhat dry atmosphere should be maintained where the plants are 
in flower, and until they have set their fruit, impregnating the flowers 
every day as they expand, until a sufficient number are obtained on each 
plant of the same stage of growth. In pits and frames where the plants 
are trained over the surface of the beds young plants will need stopping 
at the second or third leaf, and the shoots resulting being reduced to 
four, train two to the front, and a similar number to the back of the frame, 
stopping them when a foot from the sides. It will be necessary to thin or 
rub off the laterals to some extent so as to prevent overcrowding, and 
fertilise the flowers, stopping at the same time one joint beyond the fruit. 
The linings of dung frames will require to be looked to weekly, or at such 
intervals as circumstances occasim, and protection over the lights will be 
necessary at night as a means of retaining the heat by preventing radia¬ 
tion from the glass. Sow and plant in accordance with the requirements 
of the establishment. 
Cucumbers.— If fine fruits are desired crop lightly anl place the 
fruit in glasses to grow clean and straight Plants in vigorous growth, 
and the soil being rapidly filled with hungry roots, will be benefited by 
copious supplies of weak tepid liquid manure. Maintain a moist and 
genial atmosphere by damping frequently and syringing at closing time. 
Ventilate a little early to dissipate any moisture that has accu¬ 
mulated through the night, and keep the temperature through the day at 
80° to 85° with sun, closing sufficiently early to raise it to 90° or 95°. 
i Attend to stopping, thinning and arranging the shoots so as to keep up a 
