April 1, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
261 
succession of young; bearing; wood. Where the demand is not very great 
a good supply of fruit can be obtained with several two or three-light 
frames by planting the Cucumbers in succession and cropping lightly. 
When the second frame plants come into bearing thin most of the old 
shoots of the plants in the early frame, and induce the plants to make 
young wood, which will, in its turn, make a succession to the second, and 
so proceed with each frame in suecessienal order. 
Strawberries in Pots. —The season for fine forced Strawberries 
will soon be at its height and the labour entailed at its maximum. Dry 
east winds are very prevalent in spring time, and great attention must be 
given the watering. The plants should be examined at least three times 
a day in bright weather, and whenever a plant needs water give a 
thorough supply. The shelves at this time of year should be at a greater 
d'stance from the glass than is advisable earlier in the season, so as to 
allow a free circulation of air between the leaves of the plants and the 
glass, the flowers not being exposed to violent atmospheric changes on 
the admission of air after a period of dull weather. Plants that are to 
give very fine fruit should not only be those showing the largest flowers, 
but those must be thinned to about a dozen or so on each plant before 
they expand. Bring them forward in a gentle heat in the first stages of 
swelling, affording an abundance of atmospheric moisture so long as the 
fruit remains green; but when it becomes whitish green increase the 
temperature gradually to 80°. 85°, and 90° on sunny days, keeping through 
the night at 65° to 70°, with 5° more on dull days or from artificial heat, 
continuing this until the fruit becomes red all over, when the temperature 
should be lowered to a minimum of 60°, in which they will increase con¬ 
siderably in size even after they are apparently ripe, and to secure high 
flavour a free circulation of warm rather dry air must be maintained, 
watering at the roots being dispensed with as much as possible for two or 
three days before the fruit is gathered. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Zonal Pelargoniums .—To have these in good condition for winter, 
cuttings may now be rooted. Healthy cuttings should be inserted singly 
in small pots, and if kept moderately moist will root quickly on a shelf 
in a temperature of 60°. As soon as the plants are rooted remove them 
to a temperature of 5° or 10° lower to encourage a dwarf sturdy growth. 
When the small pots are full of roots the plants may be transferred into 
3-inch, and finally into 6-inch pots. By the time they are placed in the 
last size they should be growing under cool conditions. Pinch the shoots 
from time to time to induce branching. The soil must be pressed firmly 
into the pots, the moet suitable soil being fibry loam, one-seventh of 
manure, and a little sand. Double varieties required for yielding trusses 
for cutting during the summer months may now be placed in 7-inch 
pots. The earliest plants for this purpose are bushy specimens in 5-inch 
pots, which are now full of roots, and have again started freely into 
growth after having their shoots pinched. These, after potting, will be 
allowed to flower. Later plants in the same size pots should now be 
pinched, and when they have commenced growth they will be ready for 
potting. If there is any deficiency in the stock of these plants insert 
strong cuttings at once, placing three or four into 60-size pots, and then 
grown on together without stopping the shoots. 
French and Fancy Varieties .—The earliest of these will be coming 
forward rapidly, and if placed in a temperature of 50’ to 55°, will com¬ 
mence flowering before the end of next month. Care must be taken to 
ventilate daily when the weather is favourable, or the flower stems will be 
drawn up weakly. If the pots are full of roots weak stimulants may be 
given every time the plants need water, or a little artificial manure to the 
surface once a fortnight. Grow the second batch close to the glass, in a 
temperature of 45°. These must be watered carefully, and the shoots 
allowed to extend after this date. Large plants must have their shoots 
tied out before they become crowded. The third plants may be placed in 
the pots in which they are intended to flower, and when they have com¬ 
menced rooting in the new soil pinch the shoots and tie the strongest out 
towards the rim of the pots. Cuttings may now be rooted for late flower¬ 
ing. The cuttings on leggy straggling plants may be utilised for this pur¬ 
pose. They may be rooted under the same conditions as Zonals. Pinch 
them once, and then place them in 4-inch pots and allow them to flower. 
If green fly appears fumigate at once lightly with tobacco smoke. 
Nicotiana affinis .—Young plaits 11 < m seed sown some time ago will 
now be ready for placing in 3-mch po's. They will grow well in any 
fertile soil, and should be grown on in a temperature of about 50° if 
wanted in flower as early as po«sib'e ; if n t, grow them on under cool 
conditions. When the 3-inch pots are full of roots place the plants into 
6-inch pots, a very suitable size for them. The blooms of this plant are 
highly fragrant and most effective whtn arranged to rise above other 
dwarf flowering plants. 
Tropceolums .—Double and single climbing varieties should now be 
propagated and grown for furnishing the roof of greenhouses, conserva¬ 
tories, and other structures. When planted out in good soil the plants 
grow rapidly, covering a large space, and are most effective when bearing 
their gorgeous flowers. They must be grown on under cool treatment, or 
their shoots become weakly and the plants fail. These plants do well in 
good loam, to which is added one third of leaf mould and manure with a 
little sand. 
Coleuses .—Propagate these in quantity, and grow them on for conser¬ 
vatory decoration. A number of these plants will be very useful after 
spring bulbs and Azaleas have flowered. Fur these forms of decoration 
bright-foliaged varieties should be selected, and those that naturally keep 
their colour even when the structure is shaded to suit flowering plants 
associated with them, 
Achimenes .—Cuttings will now be plentiful from the tubers started 
some time ago, and the first batch should be inserted without delay. Very 
useful plants for conservatory decoration can be grown in 5-inch pots. 
These should be moderately drained and filled with a compost of loam, 
one-third leaf mould, and one-seventh of decayed manure and sand, with a 
liberal dash of the latter on the surface. Insert cuttings in these about 
1 inch apart, then well water them and place them in the propagating 
frame, where they will quickly form roots. They will root freely in any 
structure where a temperature of 60° to 65° can be maintained in a shady 
position, but they root more quickly in the frame. The plants from which 
the cuttings are taken will soon break again into growth and produce 
others. Cuttings may be rooted in pans filled with sand for making up 
baskets, which are very effective. After the cuttings are rooted do not 
grow them too warm or they will become tall, but if grown in an interme¬ 
diate temperature will flower from the base. 
Amaryllises .—Seedlings or small plants that are not wanted for 
flowering, or any that it is not necessary to retard for flowering late in tbe 
season, may now be started into growth. These should be taken out of 
their pots, the old soil shaken from the roots, and repotted in fresh fibry 
loam, one-third leaf mould, a little decayed manure, and sand. These 
plants do not require very large pots, and in potting the bulbs should be 
well above the soil. The soil must be pressed firmly into the pots. If 
practicable plunge the pots in gentle bottom heat derived from leaves or 
other fermenting material. A pit is a good place for them, with a hot- 
water pipe running round, so that a steady temperature of 50° can bo 
maintained, which will insure a sturdy growth of foliage if they are 
arranged moderately close to the glass. Water carefully at first, but 
syringe freely twice daily when the weather is favourable. 
Tuberous Begonias. —These may now be started, and very few plants 
are so useful for the conservatory during the summer. The old soil may 
be entirely removed from the tubers, which should be placed in boxes 
amongst leaf mould until they start into growth. If the boxes containing 
them can be stood upon a hotbed where a temperature of about 60° is 
maintained they will soon commence growing and rooting. They root 
freely in leaf soil, and can be lifted out with a ball of fibry roots, when it 
is necessary to place them singly in pots of various sizes according to the 
size of the tubers. After potting, grow the plants in an intermediate tem¬ 
perature where air can be given liberally when the weather is favourable. 
These Begonias grow freely in any light rich soil: in fact, we give them 
the same compost as Achimenes. 
Pancratiums. —Pot these before they start into growth. The old soil 
should be shaken from their roots, for it becomes sour in the space of a 
season, and repot the plants in fresh. Drain the pots liberally, and do not 
employ too large a size. The soil (fibry loam, sand, and manure) should 
be rendered firm and the bulbs left well above the surface, so that they 
will have a chance to swell. After potting shade from bright sunshine, 
water carefully, but syringe the foliage liberally, and they will quickly 
recover and c mmence rooting freely. Hymenocallis macrostephana is a 
beautiful plant and worth a place in every stove. It requires the same 
treatment as Pancratium fragrans. 
TJrceolina aurea .—A few good pans or pots of this are worth a place 
in any garden, for the plant is very effective early in the year ; in fact, 
with a good stock of plants their flowering season can be extended for 
some time by starling some at intervals of a few weeks. We have found 
it a good plan to shake them out annually after they have flowered and 
repot them in loam, leaf mould, and sand. The object after flowering is 
to produce a good leaf growth. They will do well in any moderately 
warm structure where they can be shaded from the sun. 
USEFUL HINTS. 
The feathered songsters, together with the bees, have 
again welcomed the return of spring. The cheerful song of the 
one with the joyful hum of the other will be pleasing to all, 
while the unfolding flowers will be searched and rifled of 
their pollen and nectar by the industrious bees. 
EXAMINATION. 
Immediately the bees have aired themselves make a 
thorough inspection of all parts of the hive for damp. If 
any exists trace its source. As I have stated often, the 
exterior of hives should be free from any obstruction to water 
that is likely to allow the wind to turn it inwardly, or the 
absence of a proper drip leads to the same evil, as do also 
horizontal joints, such as dovetailing or double joints, which 
draw water by capillary attraction. If any of these evils 
exist cover dovetailed or badly jointed corners with thin 
corner-pieces, which can be cut cheaply in one piece from a 
block of wood. Bed these in good white or red lead paint, 
and nail closely. 
