April 15, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
287 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
(Continued from paqc 250.') 
CUTTING DOWN PLANTS. 
The system of cutting down Chrysanthemums to render them 
dwarf and more suitable for decorative purposes has much to 
recommend it, especially in preparing groups for conservatories or 
exhibition, as it is seldom that naturally grown plants can be 
arranged so that they can be readily seen. To obtain plants for 
this purpose strong cuttings should be struck at the same time and 
in the same manner as previously advised. Do not top the plants, 
but train them with one stem. As they are mainly used for group¬ 
ing, and as they are generally stood closely together when in bloom, 
9-inch pots will be large enough for the final shift. If possible the 
pots should be of one uniform size, therefore after the cuttings are 
struck place them into 3|-inch pots, and then into those 5J inches 
in diameter, using similar soil to that recommended already, trans¬ 
ferring the plants to cold frames as soon as they are read}'. 
About the 20th of May cutting down should commence with the 
late-flowering varieties, say for example Boule d’Or, Meg Merrilies, 
Yellow Dragon, Grandiflorum, Princess Teck, Hero of Stoke New¬ 
ington, and Cherub ; midseason varieties about the 1st of June ; 
and the early-blooming varieties, such as Elaine, Mrs. G. Rundle, 
and Prince Alfred, should be cut down about the middle of June. 
None should be cut down later than this date if they are to be in 
bloom early in November. It is well to take into consideration the 
purpose for which the plants are required in determining the height 
at which they are to be cut. Dwarf-growing varieties best suited 
for front rows of groups may be cut down to within about 4 inches 
of the soil, the others to 6, 8, and 12 inches. As they do not break 
so freely from the old wood as from the young, plants of small- 
flowered varieties which are intended to have more branches each 
should not be cut so low as the larger-flowering varieties. 
Great care must be exercised in watering the plants after they 
are cut down, as they do not require much water at the roots for 
some time. If they can have the protection of a cold frame so 
much the better, as they can then be protected from showery 
weather. Syringe the plants once a day to assist the shoots start¬ 
ing, and if the sun be very hot at this time a little shade in the 
middle of the day can be applied. As soon as the shoots are long 
enough to determine if they are perfect, disbud to the quantity 
required ; three branches for most sorts is enough, except the small¬ 
flowering varieties which may have five or six. At this stage transfer 
the plants into the largest pots, and when rooting into the new soil 
remove them to their summer quarters, allowing them ample space, 
as crowding quickly spoils their appearance, drawing them up 
weakly and ruining the foliage. Tie each branch to stakes separately 
to prevent their being broke* or the leaves damaged by chafing 
during gales of wind, and as soon as the pots are filled with roots 
stimulants may be supplied. 
The first buds produced on the shoots after cutting down 
should in nearly all cases be selected as best suited for producing 
large blooms. They will appear from the middle to the end of 
August, and it will be soon enough if some sorts show their buds 
the first week in September, such as the Queen family. Sometimes 
a bud will show the first week in August. This is too early. In 
this case rub it out and wait till the next one shows, which will be 
about the middle of September. When the buds are selected take 
off; all growth shoots, which are freely produced at this stage. 
Commence housing the plants the 1st of October, starting with 
the late varieties, and have all under cover by the middle of the 
month. Place them as near to the glass as possible, giving sufficient 
space to each plant to prevent loss of the foliage. Fire heat will 
be needed occasionally in dull weather to prevent the blooms 
damping. Thin wires are useful to support the stems when the 
plants are required for exhibition grouping, as stakes of this kind 
are less seen than those made from laths or hazel stems. Another 
advantage gained by the wire supports over the wooden ones is 
that sometimes one flower does not come quite in the right place, 
whereas in this case the wire can be bent as desired. 
The illustrations (figs. 50 and 51) show a cut-down plant and 
one bearing flowers, and will serve to render the preceding expla¬ 
nations more easily understood.—E. Molyneux. 
MR. JOHN SMITH OF KEW. 
As will be Been from a paragraph in “ Notes and Gleanings,” Mr. John 
Smith, who has been Curator of the Royal Gardens, Kew, for twenty-two 
years, has, owing to ill-health, resigned an appointment which he has held 
with much credit. The post is an exceedingly difficult one, requiring a 
wide practical knowledge together with many other attainments which 
very few possess ; but all who are acquainted with Mr. Smith have had 
ample proofs that he performed his duties with the skill of an experienced 
gardener and the courtesy of a gentleman. 
Mr. Smith was born in Roxburghshire, and commenced his gardening 
career in 1841 by being apprenticed to Mr. C. Pillans, gardener to the 
Fig. 51. 
Duke of Roxburgh, Floors Castle, Kelso. During the three years spent 
in this garden, which was then one of the most noted in Scotland for the 
skilful practice there displayed, he laid a good foundation for his after 
experience. At the end of that period Mr. Smith proceeded to Alnwick 
Castle Gardens, and he remained in the service of the Duke of Northum¬ 
berland for twenty years. He worked at Alnwick Castle in a subordinate 
position until 1855, but the time so spent was most valuable[in results, for 
by his assiduity and perseverance he gained the esteem of his noble 
employer, who assisted him in many ways. In the year named he went 
to Syon House Gardens to gain some knowledge of tropical fruit culture, 
returning to Alnwick in 1856, but was shortly afterwards appointed 
gardener on the Duke of Northumberland’s estate, Werrington Park, 
Cornwall. Three years later—namely, in 1859—Mr. Iyison resigned the 
