April 15, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER . 
299 
first. The bulbs were prominently shown, and the foliage was firm and of 
a dense green colour. The best spikes were King of the Blues, Grandeur & 
Merveille, La Grandesse, Lord Macaulay, Lord Derby, Mont Blanc, Gigantea, 
and Von Schiller. Mr. J. McIntyre was second, and Messrs. Nairn & Sons, 
Pilgrim Street, third. For nine pots of single Tulips Mr. Watson was also 
first with Ophir d’Or, Joost Van Vondel, Keizers Kroon, Fabiola, and 
White Pottebakker. Mr. J. Short second. There were seven lots staged. 
For double Tulips Mr. Watson was again first, followed by Mr. McIntyre. 
The same exhibitor was also first for Polyanthus-Narcissuses ; Mr. Short, 
gardener to Arthur Pease, Esq., Hammersknott, Darlington, and Mr. 
McIntyre following. There were six lots staged, which formed with the 
Hyacinths and other bulbs a most attractive display, occupying one side of 
the Corn Exchange. 
Cut flowers and tab’e decorations are generally good at the spring 
Exhibition, but this year they may be fairly said to have been better than 
•ever. Mr. M. D. Thompson, gardener to Lindsay Wood, Esq., South Hill, 
exhibited a marvellous epergne for the drawing room. The top tier con¬ 
sisted of Cypripediums, B -gonias, Aphelexis, and Spiraeas; second tier, Mard- 
chal Niel Roses, Oncidium flexuosum; base, Calla aetbiopica, Anthurium 
Schertzerianum, Phaius grandiflora, margined with Davallia Mooreana, the 
top relieved with Adiantum gracillimum. Mr. S. Rutherford, Leazes 
House, Durham, was second with a very good stand indeed. Mr. Adams, 
■Swalwell, third. For a bridal bouquet Mr. Hutchison, 58, Collingwood 
Street, Newcastle, was first with a choice arrangement of Lily of the Valley, 
Niphetos Roses, American Tuberose, and Gardenia florida; Mr. J. R. Chard, 
Clapham Common, London, second. The last exhibitor was first for a hand 
bouquet, containing Bouvardia Hogarth, Stephanotis, American Tuberose, 
Pancratiums, Carnation Goldfinder, and Smith’s Yellow Rose. This was 
an effective bouquet. Twenty-two buttonhole bouquets were staged, Mr. 
Thomas Laidler, Old Benwell, being first with Marechal Niel Rose, Spiraea, 
and Adiantum gracillimum. In the classes above referred to the compe¬ 
tition is open to all, nurserymen excepted. Mr. F. C. Ford was first, and 
Mr. J. Noble second with Azaleas; Mr. Corbet and Mr. Noble with 
Cytisuses ; Mr. Forsyth, gardener to Geo. Cairns, Esq., Monkton Hall, with 
Mignonette ; and Mr. Short and Mr. F. C. Ford with Spiraeas and Primulas. 
Hyacinths, Tulips, Lily of the Valley were all well shown. For an epergne Mr. 
J. Battensby, Swalwell, was first, and Mr. Whiting, Shotley House, second. 
Among the exhibits not for competition was a fine stand of Daffodils 
from Messrs. James Dickson & Sons, Chester, in which Sir Watkin and 
General Gordon were prominent. Mr. J. Robson, Hexham, exhibited hardy 
Coniferm margined with the pretty golden Valeriana Phu aurea. Messrs. 
Wm. Fell & Co., Hexham, exhibited a collection of stove, greenhouse, and 
hardy plants, which were effectively disposed. 
The first day the weather was cold and unpropitious, but the hall was 
•densely packed at night. The Committee were present with their Chair¬ 
man, who, along with the indefatigable Secretary, Mr. J. G. Gillespie, were 
doing all they could in sustaining the interest of the Show, and rendering 
assistance to exhibitors and the public. The Exhibition was admirably 
arranged by Messrs. Wilson, Balfour, and Gascoigne. 
CINERARIAS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
Wherever Cinerarias of a good strain are represented by really well- 
grown plants they are certain to command a host of admirers at this 
season of the year, and I know of no class of plants likely to give such 
general satisfaction from January till April. Flowers of the improved 
types have such great size and substance as to leave but little to be 
desired in that direction. There is also such great richness in many of 
the colours in the way of purples, crimsons, and magentas as few other 
flowers possess. If we could only get a yellow as rich as an Allamanda, 
and a scarlet as bright as Vesuvius Pelargonium, the raDge of colour would 
then be well-nigh complete, but perhaps through the efforts of our skilful 
hybrididists and enterprising nurserymen these may be obtained in the 
future. Plants in various sized pots are useful in many ways, either for 
■supplying cut flowers or for house and conservatory embellishment; for 
the latter purpose they are invaluable, especially where largo houses have 
to be kept gay, as when once the flower buds begin to show colour it is 
not at all necessary to keep the plants near the glass, for they will 
develops their blossoms when placed many feet from the glass as well as if 
kept close to it, which is a matter of some importance in large houses. 
With all these good qualities to recommend them, Cinerarias do not 
appear to be grown in such quantities as I think their merits deserve. 
True, we generally see a few plants in any garden where there is a glass 
structure, and in such cases there is only room for a few, but in larger 
establishments, where plenty of pits and frames are at liberty for growing 
them during the summer, and suitable structures for their reception in 
autumn and winter, they would, I am certain, give greater satisfaction if 
enough were grown to produce a distinct feature at a certain time than 
can be obtained by the various mixtures of plants that arc often grown, 
and which, in many cases, cannot have the special treatment the different 
classes require. The culture of the plants under notice is by no 
means difficult; nevertheless, like most others, to have them in really 
creditable condition they require a considerable amount of time spent 
upon them, and constant attention to the various details connected with 
their cultivation. Cinerarias are great favourites here, and are con¬ 
sequently grown rather extensively, some three or four hundred plants 
being required, hence my reason for supplying an account of their treat¬ 
ment, thinking it might be interesting to the readers of the Journal, and 
also hoping it may be the means of inducing others to grow them in 
.greater numbers. 
: SOWING THE SEED AND TREATMENT OF YOUNG PLANTS. 
The first sowing, to supply plants for flowering in 9 and 10-inch pots, 
is made about the beginning of April, and another sowing at the end of 
May to obtain good u?eful plants in 5 and 7-inch pots. Our practice is 
to sow in ordinary seed pans, about 3 inches in depth. One crock is 
placed over the hole at the bottom, a layer of medium-sized ones over that, 
which are in turn covered with very small crocks, so as to leave the sur¬ 
face perfectly level. Over this are placed the rough parts of the leaf soil 
that has been used in preparing the soil in which to sow the seeds. After 
this operation is completed the rough material over the crocks should be 
1 j inch from the rim of the pan ; that will allow room for the soil and 
a quarter of an inch between it and the glass that should be placed 
over the top of the pan. The soil we use for the purpose con¬ 
sists of equal parts light loam and good sweet leaf soil free 
from insects, and little finely powdered charcoal and fine sand 
added, and the whole passed through the quarter-inch sieve, and 
well mixed together. A portion is then pressed firmly into the pan 
already prepared, a little of the same kind of soil is mixed, passed through 
a fine hair sieve as it is held over the pan, and is then made smooth and 
firm, which leaves a good surface on which to sow the dust-like seed, but 
before doing so it is a good plan to place over the soil a very slight 
sprinkling of white sand shaken through the hair sieve. The seeds can 
then be seen much better as they are scattered on the surface and con¬ 
sequently can be sown more evenly. It is a great mistake to sow the 
seeds thickly, because the young plants become too much crowded before 
they are large enough to be pricked off. After the seed is sown we give a 
slight covering of finely sifted soil, press it slightly with a smooth board, 
and give a slight watering through a very fine rose. A square of glass is 
then placed over the pan, which is placed in a warm vinery and shaded 
with moss or paper till the seeds §how signs of germinating. The shading 
should then be removed, and as soon as the young seedlings become 
inured to the light place them in an open position near the glass, 
where they will require no shading till pricked off. I have found it a 
great advantage to keep the square of glass still over the pan, but it should 
be kept a little above the rim by means of two pieces of crocks so as to 
allow a current of air to pass over the plants. 
Treated in this way the plants will make rapid progress, and as Boon 
as they are large enough should be pricked off 1 inch apart in shallow 
well-drained boxes, in soil similar to that in which the seeds were sown, 
pressed firmly and finished off with a thin board, and as each box is filled 
with young plants, watered through a fine rose to thoroughly settle the 
soil about the roots. A capital place for them at this stage is around the 
sides of a Melon pit where Melons have been recently planted, fixing 
shelves to keep them near the glass, and shading from bright sunshine. 
When the plants have grown sufficiently for the leaves to touch each other, 
and before they become crowded, place them into small 60-pots. At this 
first potting do not press the soil too firmly, and take great care not to 
wring the collars of the plants, or they will be liable to die, especially if 
by any means they should get too wet. This rule should be observed at 
all subsequent pottiDgs, as many Cinerarias are lost from this cause alone, 
although it does not account for the mysterious dying of plants in various 
stages as is often seen. These causes I will refer to later on.—A. Dunkin. 
(To be continued.) 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
The weather continues very changeable, and we have not made the 
progress in vegetable planting we anticipated since the frost left, but we 
would rather be a fortnight late in sowing than attempt it when the soil 
is unfit, as late-sown crops always prove satisfactory, but those sown in 
wet soil are the reverse. 
Radishes. —In large gardens these must be supplied all the year, or 
as near that as possible ; but in small ones they are only cultivated to 
come in from early summer until late autumn, and where this is the case 
a sowing of French Breakfast should be made at once. They will grow 
quickly now, and the first of them will be ready for drawing in from 
three to four weeks. From the time the first are gathered from a patch 
until they become stringy is generally about a fortnight, and no more 
should be sown than there is likely to be a demand for during that time, 
and by sowing the same quantity once a fortnight a constant succession 
of tender sweet roots will be produced. Varieties of Radish are very 
numerous. Many of them are pretty, and all are good when properly 
grown. The Turnip-rooted ones are the best for shallow soil. In the 
early spring a sheltered sunny spot where the soil is rather light suits 
them best, but as the weather becomes warmer a cool soil and situation 
should be given them. They delight in a rich soil, but dislike rough 
lumps of manure. 
Lettuces.—A patch 2 feet or 3 feet square sown with seed will furnish 
many scores of plants, and it is a mistake to sow them in too large quan¬ 
tities, as they are apt to run to seed early in hot weather, and small 
sowings made often is the best way to secure a constant supply of tender 
crisp heads. They should have rich soil at all stages of their growth, 
and care must be taken that they are not eaten by snails. Lettuce sown 
last autumn and wintered in a small state to supply heads early in spring, 
are now almost ready for cutting, as they were protected during the 
winter, and others to succeed them which were raised under glass in 
