April 29, 1386. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
333 
5, P. stricta, Hornem. —Differs from farinosa by leaves not mealy 
beneath, pedicels and calyx not mealy, flowers fewer.—Distrib. : Mountains 
of Scandinavia and Northern Russia. 
6, P. sibirica, Jacq., var. finmarchica, Jacq .—Leaves broader than in 
farinosa, entire, not mealy beneath. Pedicels longer. Calyx-tube oblong ; 
teeth much shorter than the tube. Corolla-tube short. Flowers few.—Dis¬ 
trib. : Mountains of Scandinavia. The type known in Siberia only. 
7, P. frondosa, Janka .—Leaves large, thin, not mealy beneath. Calyx- 
tube campanulate ; teeth lanceolate-deltoid, as long as the tube. Corolla- 
tube short.—Distrib.: Mountains of Thrace. Very rare. 
8, P. longiflora, All. —Leaf like that of farinosa, usually mealy 
beneath. Calyx longer, both tube and teeth. Corolla-tube 1 inch or more 
long. Corolla-limb i—J inch in diameter.—Distrib.: Mountains of Central 
Europe. 
Group III.—Auriculastra.—Y oung leaves involute. Calyx short, both 
tube and teeth. 
* True Auriculastra. —Leaves, calyx and pedicels not viscose. 
9, P. Auricula, Linn .—Leaves large, entire or minutely toothed. 
Leaves beneath, pedicels and calyx mealy. Bracts small. Flower pale 
yellow.—Distrib.: Mountains of Central Europe. 
10, P. palinuri, Petag. —Differs mainly from the large forms of Auricula 
by its constantly inciso-crenate leaves and larger foliaceous bracts. Flower 
pale yellow.—Distrib.: Promontory of Palinurus, Naples. 
11, P. margin at a, Curt. —Much dwarfer than Auricula, with strongly 
inciso-crenate leaves with a white mealy margin. Flowers fewer, lilac.— 
Distrib.: Alps of Dauphine and Piedmont. 
12, P. carniolica, Jacq. —Leaves oblong, thin, entire, not at all mealy. 
Flowers lilac.—Distrib.: Alps of Austria and Lombardy. 
** Erythrodosa. —Leaves, pedicels, and calyx viscose. 
13, P. viscosa, Vill .—Leaves obovate, strongly inciso-crenate. Pedicels 
twice as long as calyx. Calyx-teeth nearly as long as the tube. Flowers 
few or many, lilac.—Distrib. : Pyrenees and mountains of Central Europe. 
Many varieties (villosa, Wulf., latifolia, Lap., Ac.). 
14, P. paonensis, Leyb. —Differs from dwarf few-flowered forms of 
viscosa by its narrower leaves, shorter pedicels and much smaller calyx, 
with very small obtuse teeth.—Distrib.: Granitic Alps of Switzerland and 
Austria. 
Group IV.—Arthitica.—Y oung leaves involute; calyx long; tube 
cylindrical or infundibuliform. Flowers always lilac. 
* Corolla lobes shallowly bifid. 
15, P. calycina, Duby. —Leaves large, entire, acute, with a distinct white, 
mealy edge. Bracts large, linear. Calyx £ inch long ; teeth lanceolate, as 
long as tube.—Distrib. : Alps of Lombardy. 
16, P. spectabilis, Trait. —Leaves large, entire, obtuse or subacute, with 
an indistinct pale edge. Bracts smaller than in the last.—Calyx \j inch 
long ; teeth much shorter than the tube.—Distrib.: Alps of Central Europe ; 
several varieties : was included by Linnaeus under integrifolia. 
17, P. integrifolia, Linn., ex parte.—Dwarfer than spectabilis, with 
smaller leaves and only 1—3 flowers.—Distrib. : Pyrenees and mountains of 
Switzerland and Lombardy. 
18, P. Allioni, Lois. —Dwarf, 1—2-flowered, with very Bhort peduncle 
and pedicels. Leaves obovate, very obtuse, sub-entire, vicose.—Distrib.: 
Alps of Piedmont, very rare ; and a geographical variety (P. tyrolensis, 
Schott) in the Tyrol. 
** Corolla-lobes deeply bifid. 
19, P. minima, Linn .—Very dwarf; leaves small, obtuse, sharply 
toothed, not viscose; flowers 1—2 ; peduncle and pedicels both very short. 
Distrib. : Mountains of Switzerland, North Italy, Austria, and Turkey. 
20, P. glutinosa, Wulff .—Leaves obtuse, denticulate, viscose. Flowers 
many, in a dense umbel, with an elongated peduncle, and large oblong 
obtuse bracts ; pedicles absent.—Distrib.: Mountains of the Engadine, 
Lombardy and Austria. 
MILDEW ON STRAWBERRIES. 
I GROW a great quantity of Strawberries under glass thus. I make 
temporary frames for 6-feet by 4-feet lights to rest on, thus covering 
three rows of plants at 2 feet apart, planted in the open ground. The 
sides are formed with either boards or sacks. I get ripe Strawberries 
under these lights from eighteen to twenty days earlier than from the 
plants not covered. Plenty of good fine fruits in both cases, only those 
outside are free from mildew and the others are not. All goes well until 
the fruits begin colouring. The front and.back rows are the worst, and 
the middle one the least mildewed. I think the cause of it is the cold 
nights, for in May last year the pits were often at 90° in the day with 
abundance of ventilation, and at 5.30 A.M. at 41°. I have left air on 
some all night, others quite close, without different results. Shading is 
used a few hours in bright weather after they begin to colour, as I find 
the fruit will not stand too much sun under glass. A friend of mine 
called last May, and, asking him if he could suggest a remedy, he said, 
if I were to run a hot-water pipe round them I should remedy it, but that 
Is not practicable in my case. Much has been said in the Journal about 
mildew on Roses, I should like Mr. Bardney’s opinion about mildew on 
Strawberries. Could I apply any mixture with the syringe that would 
not be injurious to the fruit while they were green ? If yon could help 
me through your valuable Journal you would confer a great boon on 
Strawberry growers besides myself.—A Reader. 
[The cause of mildew in this case is due, not only to the great irregu¬ 
larity between the day and night temperature they are subjected to, but 
the manner in which they are ventilated. The difference between the day 
and night temperatures is so great that this combined with a somewhat 
confined atmosphere is almost certain to produce mildew. Supposing that 
no cold draughts strike through the boards or sacks used, those rows 
towards the outer portions of the frame are subjected at night to a much 
lower temperature both of the soil and atmosphere than those in the 
centre. This may to a veiy large extent be prevented by covering the 
frame at night with some close material that will prevent radiation ; not 
only the glass but the sides should be covered. I have no doubt that the 
plants in the morning are covered with dew, which is due to the lowering 
of the temperature, and if this is not evaporated by early ventilation it 
adds to the evil. The ventilation of the frame probably consists in 
drawing up and down the lights alternately during bright sunshine, and 
if this is the case I am not surprised that the outer row plants have 
become a prey to mildew. When frames are ventilated on this principle 
the plants near the front and back practically receive no air, in fact it 
does not circulate freely amongst and below the foliage. To remedy this, 
provision should be made for the admission of air freely during favourable 
weather both to the back and front of the frame on a level with the soil. 
If this were done there would be very little need for tilting the lights or 
drawing them up and down without the day proved exceptionally hot; 
but it would be found that air would circulate freely amongst the plants 
and they would remain perfectly free from mildew provided cold draughts 
were avoided, the frame ventilated early and closed early to husband sun 
heat, so that the night temperature could be maintained as high as 
possible. I have never found Strawberries prove a great success in frames 
that have only had provision for ventilating above them instead of below 
or on a level with the plants. The same remarks apply with equal force 
to the majority of hardy plants cultivated in such frames. 
I have never tried my softsoap solution that I use for Roses on Straw¬ 
berries, but if your correspondent’s plants are attacked with mildew he 
might try it on a few of them and record the result. I have destroyed 
mildew on the foliage of plants in autumn by a solution of softsoap and 
water, using 1 oz. of the former to 1 gallon of the latter, with a good 
handful of sulphur stirred into each 4 gallons, and then the plants 
syringed with it. But this would not be practicable when the plants 
were bearing fruit. Prevention is better than cure, but if the plants are 
attacked I cannot tender better advice than that given in your last issue, 
page 308.—Wm. Bardney.] 
HEDGES. 
On page 297, April lutb, of this Journal I read Mr. R. Inglis’s article 
on the management of hedges, and think his remarks are rather mislead¬ 
ing. I do not agree with him in siding up a hedge as represented in 
fig. 53 A when it has got out of shape or thin and bare at the bottom. 
Siding it up will not fill the gap, nor will it make a good bottom. The 
best and cheapest way to make a good fence of an old neglected hedge is to 
have it plashed and the growths laid. You can in that way stop all gaps 
with live wood, and get a good bottom. Our method is to get 4 foot 
stakes, drive them 1 foot in the ground as the work of laying proceeds, 
cutting all the oldest hard wood out close to the ground, selecting all the 
youngest wood for laying-in ; these to be cut half through close to the 
ground, then pressed down between the stakes not too thickly ; run a 
binder on the top of the stakes, and you will then have a hedge about 
3 feet high. After that let the hedge grow upright for two years, only 
cutting in the side growths. In the autumn of the second year cut the 
hedge in the shape represented in fig. 53 C of the Journal, page 297, 
April 15th—that is, narrow at the top. This is the best way to keep a good 
thick bottom ; the layers make a sort of network as the young growth 
from the old stools come up between them, and all is then interwoven to¬ 
gether, and is much stronger than hedges only topped or sided up. 
Hedges that have not been layed rarely or ever have a good base. It is a 
great mistake not to have every young quick fence layed before it is 
topped. Many young quick hedges are much checked in their growth by 
being cut in every year, and some twice a year. 
Mr. R. Inglis says he has seen young hedges left four or five years to 
grow without cutting to give them strength, and then bad them cut 
down ; this he thinks is most foolish. We grow all our young hedges 
four and five, and sometimes six years, then they are layed as referred 
to above, and have the same treatment the first two years after. I also 
venture to say that a young hedge to grow four or five years without a 
check and be then cut down will make a far stronger and better fence 
than the one always kept clipped from the first year it is planted. The 
frequent clipping is a great check to the roots, which is reduced by 
frequent clipping as well as the head. We know hedges that have been 
clipped a number of years often get very wide, and some thin at the 
bottom. When our hedges that have been layed get too wide we side 
them up on one side close to the layers, then two years after trim up 
the other side as close as the former. 
Should there be any bare places in the bottom when siding the 
hedge up cut a few notches in the stools that are bare. This will 
generally cause the stools to break out below the notches, which will fill up 
the bare places with young wood. I have often seen gaps stopped with 
brambles or any rubbish, pressing it close in, thus making larger gaps 
every year by smothering all young growth under the brambles. 
Our plan is to have some thin larch poles sawn down into rail?, 
and in each gap we put one long rail, so that it is a few feet 
longer than the gap, and each end is pushed into the middle of the 
hedge above and below the gap about 1 foot from the top of the 
hedge. We then select the shorter bars and saw them up to stakes 
or poles, and these we drive into the ground in the middle of the 
hedge and nail them to the long bar, leaving the pales about 1 foot above 
the bar ; that makes the pales about the same height as the hedge. The 
paling should not be too thick or too close together, and always worked 
