344 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER 
[ April 29, 18i>& 
and round the sides are artistically shaped beds formed of stone cable 
edging, bordered with flowers and backed up with large and choice plants 
and trees, the whole forming a striking and effective coup d’oeil. The 
floors of both conservatory and porch are covered with black and white 
encaustic tiles in very small squares of Messrs. Minton’s manufacture, and 
every portion of the building is of first-class design and workmanship. 
The general effect is further enhanced by the tasteful arrangement of 
the surrounding grounds, which, amongst other numerous attractions, 
contain some very choice Cedars. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Our principal enemy this spring, the ungenial weather, appears to 
have departed finally, and the soil has been in capital order for sowing 
and planting. Early crops are growing rapidly, and our kitchen garden 
has now quite a spring-like appearance. Those who are behind with 
their cropping should push the work forward as fast as possible. 
Potatoes. —The whole of the early ones should have been planted 
some little time ago. Those along the bottom of our Peach wall are now 
6 inches high, and as they have enjoyed the protection afforded to the trees 
while in bloom they are healthy and strong. Those plauted in rows across 
a south border are about 2 inches high, and as soon as they become this 
height they should be earthed up. This affords tbe stems support and 
shelter, and must be always practised. Where manure was deficient at 
planting time sprinkle a little guano or some artificial manure round the 
plants before earthing up. Planting late Potatoes must be finished as 
soon as possible. The Champion, Magnum Bonum, and some others make 
more stem than the early sorts, and they must be given more room. 
From 2 feet to 30 inches is not too much from row to row for late Potatoes, 
and tbe sets should be placed 18 inches apart. Frame Potatoes now being 
dug are turning out well. 
Asparagus.— This is very late this season. Some seasons we have cut 
quantities from the open during the first and second week in April. This 
year we shall not be able to cut in any quantity until the first week in 
May. Our main piece for cutting is 30 yards wide and 100 yards in 
length, the whole of the roots being plant d from 2 feet to 3 feet apart, 
and the first wet day a handful oE guano will be sprinkled round the 
plants to assist in strengthening the young growths that will be cut 
during the next month, also to benefit those which will be left to grow 
throughout the summer. 
New plantations may now be made. Those who buy roots should 
procure them two years old at least, and three years if they wish to 
make a good beginning and cut largely next year. We always raise our 
own seedlings ; but some may not have the convenience to do this, and 
others who have not sown seed last year or before that to produce roots 
may not be inclined to wait until seed sown now would produce plants. 
Before any attempt is made at planting, the ground must be thoroughly 
prepared for the roots. It must be deeply dug and heavily manured, and 
where the soil is heavy a quantity of sand or light road scrapings should 
be added, as the roots being very fleshy are apt to perish in stiff soil. 
The roots may either be put in beds or planted on the level without form¬ 
ing these ; in any case they should not be planted closer to each other 
than 18 inches each way. Spread the roots out star form without being 
cramped or twisted round, and the holes should not be more than C inches 
in depth. In buying roots from a distant nursery the holes should be 
ready on their arrival; they should be forwarded by passenger train, and 
the shorter the time they are out of the ground the better, as it is very 
injurious to allow them to become dried. If the weather is dry at the 
time of planting water immediately afterwards. 
Asparagus seed should also be sown ; 1 oz. will produce some hundreds 
of roots. It ought to be sown in light rich soil in rows 18 inches apart 
and 2 inches deep. As the young plants will remain in the seed rows for 
one year at least, sow thinly, and where ground is scarce rather keep the 
rows 9 inches or 1 foot apart than sow thickly to get a certain number 
of plants. 
Beet. —Half the main crop of the long sorts, such as Dell’s Crimson, 
should be sown now, and the other half in a month or so, as moderate¬ 
sized roots are more desirable than very large ones. Soil medium in 
richness and rather open will produce fine clean roots. Sow in drills 
15 inches or 18 inches apart, and 2 inches deep, and remember it is only 
a waste of good seed to sow thickly. 
Peas. —If the weather becomes very dry give the earliest rows a 
good watering with liquid manure. Stake all advancing crops before 
they fall to one side. Sow quantities of main crop varieties for use about 
the end of July and the beginning of August, the trench system only 
being practised at this season. 
Broad Beans. —Early crop? are pushing on rapidly, and if any are 
wanted in July sow at once. Those intended for exhibition should be 
sown in trenches with a large quantity of strong manure forked in before 
sowing the seed. Carter’s Leviathan is supreme for showing. 
Kidney Beans. —These include Dwarf and Runner varieties. They 
are sometimes sown in the open before this time, but success rarely 
follows early sowing, as the seed is tender and apt to perish in the cold 
soil, while the young plants are more tender still, and if not checked by 
frost they often assume a yellow hue, which makes them very unprofitable. 
The first week in May, however, is not too early to sow generally, and by 
giving them a warm sheltered spot they will grow freely and pod pro¬ 
fusely almost as early as any Bown weeks ago. A few rows of Ne Plus 
Ultra, Osborn’s, or some other very early sort may be sown as well as a 
small quantity of Canadian Wonder to succeed these. Keep the rows- 
about 20 inches apart, and do not sow the seed deeper than 2 inches.. 
Cover up if possible with a quantity of light old soil from the potting-shed* 
as in wet districts or cold soils this helps the germination of the seed and 
free growth of the young plants. A row of Runner Beans may be sown 
at the same time. Make a shallow trench, dig plenty of manure into it, 
sow the seed 3 inches from the surface, cover with the soil above recom¬ 
mended, and a fine crop of early Runners will be the result. 
Spinaoh and Turnips. —The early crops of these grow but slowly.. 
We never had spring Turnips so backward, but successional crops must be- 
put in, and a good sowing of both of the above should be made. To have- 
the leaves of summer Spinach large and succulent the seed must be sown 
in rich soil ; in poor material it would be a failure. Before sowing the 
Turnips sprinkle a quantity of soot or lime over the ground. Dutch hoe 
it in, then open tbe drills, and sow the seed, and the fly or grub will not 
be troublesome. It is better to check them before sowing than try to 
eradicate them when once established. 
Veitch’s Autumn Giant Cauliflower. —This is a variety of such- 
extreme usefulness that we give it a note to itself. It is unique from 
September until December, and seed should be sown at once to give plants- 
that will bear during the period named. It is by no means tender, and 
may be sown along with the Kale and Savoys. 
Herbs. —Mint is strong and healthy, evidently much benefited by the- 
surface dressing of manure put on it some time ago. Thyme and Sage 
are making fresh growths, and these are three herbs which should be 
grown in quantity by all. Mint is easily increased by dividing the roots. 
Sage and Thyme come readily from seed, and Tarragon, summer and! 
winter Savorys and all other hardy herbs do the same. Sow now in 
light rich soil, and give established plants plenty of manure to promote 
luxuriant growth. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — Early Houses .—Vines in all stages have been greatly benefited 
by increased ventilation and early closing with sun heat in lieu of incessant 
filing, which has been absolutely necessary for many months to maintain 
the minimum temperature. Excessive firing encourages red spider, par¬ 
ticularly cn Vines that are carrying full crops of Grapes through the 
winter and spring, as firing must be constantly kept up to secure the 
requisite temperature, and as these troublesome insects spread withi 
alarming rapidity the usual remedies must be applied without delay. 
Some, when driven to extremities, resort to the syringe, but the application 
of wat ; r, even in the hands of the most careful, is liable to damage the- 
bloom, soft water in some cases leaving a mark where the water hangs on 
the berries. Sponging the foliage is a tedious operation, but if done in 
time the Vines may be kept in good health until after the crop has been 
removed, anda9 future crops depend upon the preservation of the foliage,, 
early attention to this work is imperative. A careful examination of the 
inside borders should be made, and if they are dry a liberal application of 
tepid liquid manure will be found a powerful aid to the Vines. Grapes 
now colouring fast will require abundance of warm air by day and night 
with plenty of moisture on the paths, walls, and mulching. Gradually 
reduce the night temperature as the Grapes ripen, keeping the atmosphere 
dry and cool where they have to be kept any length of time. When 
approaching ripeness moderate fire heat will be required to keep up a 
circulation of rather dry warm air by day and a temperature of about 60°’ 
at night. Guard against excessive dryness, as early Grapes with ventila¬ 
tion require much more water than late ones. G adually remove the 
remains of fermenting materials from outside borders, leaving a good 
mulching of the most suitable— ie., that only partially decayed, for the 
protection of the surface roots, and allow them to have exposure to the 
summer rains, which will wash in the fertilising elements of the manure,, 
and stimulate the Vines into the production of new laterals after they are 
relieved of the crop. 
Midseason, and Muscat Houses .—Thinning must be attended to in- 
tbe case of the free-setting varieties a? soon as the berries are set, but 
Muscats should be left until the properly fertilised berries take the lead. 
If a large per-centage of the surplus bunches were not cut off before- 
they flower no time must be lost in getting them removed, and laterals 
that have been allowed to ramble may be stopped, tied, and regulated in> 
accordance with the uncovered space at command. Give inside borders 
a thorough soaking with tepid liquid manure, and mulch with short 
manure, it being preferable to use the droppings fresh from the stables 
spread over the whole surface in order to afford the Vines the benefit of 
an ammonia-charged atmosphere, but care must be taken not to overdo it, 
or the ammonia will bo too powerful for the tender foliage of the Vines. 
It may be obviated if there is any danger of this by admitting a little air 
constantly at the top of the house. Ventilate early, and increase it with 
the rising temperature, closing sufficiently early for the temperature to 
rise to 85° or 90° with plenty of atmospheric moisture. Before night a 
little ventilation given at the apex will allow the vitiated air to escape* 
and prevent the deposition of moisture on the foliage. 
Late Houses .—The passing month, though better than its predecessors, 
has been cold with little sun, and though there are complaints of bad- 
