April 29, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
345 
breaks, which are attributed to last season's dryness, late Vines have, as a 
•rule started well, and are now making good progress. Some complain, 
■however, of the tendency to the production of tendrils or loose hunches, 
3. sure sign of imperfectly ripened wood, and in some instances the shows 
are not as good as usual ; but the bunches are compact, and these, as a 
rule, are just the kind to be wished for keeping, as the footstalks of the 
berries are usually stout and keeping fresh up to June. In order to pre¬ 
vent the disposition to run into tendrils, the late Vines should be started 
-earlier, and be ripened earlier with more fire heat if necessary in early 
autumn, so as to secure thoroughly finished fruit and perfectly matured 
wood. As a means of correcting it the shoots should be tied down to the 
wires, and stopped to within three or four joints of the fruit, the best time 
for performing this being the latter part of a fine day when the growths 
■are limp, and keeping rather drier and warmer by day. Fertilise Muscats, 
and other shy-setting varieties every fine day, when the temperature has 
reached the maximum, having removed the greater part of the surplus 
■bunches prior to their coming into flower. To have Gtros Colman, Gros 
■Guillaume, &c., thoroughly ripe and fit for use before Christmas the fruit 
should now be setting in what ought to be termed a midseason rather 
than a late hou'e, as these require more water and a longer time to ripen 
than other Grapes. 
Newly planted Vines should now be well mulched and liberally sup¬ 
plied with water, closing early with plenty of atmospheric moisture. 
Allow laterals free scope, but those from the lower part of the canes should 
be kept closely pinched, hut the old leaves must be carefully preserved. 
Look well to pot Vines, and if late planting is contemplated no time 
•should be lost in making the needful borders and getting the planting 
■done. Large-growing plants from pots or turves may be transferred at 
any time, but the earlier the better, as Grapes cannot be obtained from 
badly ripened wood, neither will half-ripened canes, when cut down, 
make such clean short-jointed growths next season as others that have 
been properly ripened and rested through the autumn. 
Melons. —This fruit in the early house or hotwater-heated pit will be 
ripening, and will need a drier yet buoyant atmosphere in order to 
secure good flavoured fruit; hence the^advisability of ventilation at night, 
■as pent up air is not only against the colouring and flavour, but is likely 
to cause the fruit to crack. Maintain a night temperature of TCP, ventilate 
at 75°, and increase it as the temperature rises. Close the house at three 
to half-past in the afternoon. Add more soil to the hillocks as the roots 
push through the sides of the mounds, which must be repeated at intervals 
until the allotted space is filled. Do not allow young plants intended for 
planting to become root-bound before being planted, or they become 
stunted and rarely make a free growth afterwards. Any that are likely 
4o get into this state should be shifted into pots a couple of sizes larger 
than those they are at present in, in order to keep them in steady progres¬ 
sive growth until the hillocks in the house, pits, or frames are got ready 
for them. 
BEE-KEEPER. 
INITIATORY INSTRUCTIONS.—No. 3. 
Previous to supers being placed on the hive they mii3tbe 
fitted with comb foundation ; the narrower the better it will 
be, as in many cases the bees do not pare down the sheet of 
wax, the neglect of which makes it unpleasant to the con¬ 
sumer of the honey. Sheets made from native wax is 
superior to any foreign sample I have yet seen. Bee keepers 
should secure their own wax and have it made into sheets. 
Divisible supers, for convenience in every respect, are 
what should be used, each bar having a groove in centre 
i by i of an inch. After straightening the strips on a table 
grip these so that they be not twisted, slipping them into the 
groove, then from a glue pot filled with wax fully melted, 
and the water boiling, take a teaspoon, keeping it in the wax 
until it is well heated, without which the wax is cooled, 
sets upon the spoon, and prevents the work being done 
satisfactorily. Now take each bar in the left hand, and holding 
it at an angle so that the wax will keep close to the sheet 
and run down the groove from one end to the other, then 
repeat on the other side. Be sure and fill every part of the 
groove on both sides. This must be adhered to with frames as 
well; by doing so it induces the bees to build the comb close 
■to its foundation, and prevents the bees interposing small 
pieces of comb and deviating from the straight line, which 
destroys the beauty and symmetry of the super. The 6ame 
instructions apply to the fastening of comb foundation in supers 
where the bars are secured. If full sheets are determined on, 
unless they aro steadied they are liable to collapse ; to prevent 
them doing so, nail little strips of wood to a piece about five- 
eighths of an inch square, in size and number to pass between 
every bar to the full depth of the sheet or box. This rake-like 
contrivance is effectual in preventing any collapse, gentle 
handling and keeping in the natural position all deep 
foundation and newly made combs is the imperative duty of 
all bee-keepers. 
When supers are placed on the hive, be sure it is smooth 
and free from any obstruction whatever ; and as it is always 
advisable to pass a cord between super and super as well as 
the hives to sever any attachments of comb, it is well to put 
a very thin wedge at each corner between each division to 
allow the cord freedom of passage-a thick shaving is sufficient. 
It is very advisable to gum a strip of paper at each junction, 
or get a ball of tailor’s rends and wind a strip or two round 
each and fasten with a pin. It is always most pleasant to 
look at a clean super—a rather difficult thing, as the bees soon 
discolour everything they travel on, but the bee-keeper 
must use his best endeavours to preserve its pristine clean¬ 
ness. And here I may observe the Sfcewarton deep hive 
possesses this advantage in the highest degree, a matter of no 
little importance in bee-keeping, not only to the man who 
sells his hon6y, but to those who make it a pride in showing 
to the greatest advantage, along with flowers on his dining 
table, a magnificent super of honey made and gathered by 
his own bees, and perhaps from his own flowers. Then what 
a pleasure it is to both the giver and recipient when a hand¬ 
some super is made to change hands as a present at a season 
when these are fashionable. These are the people I would 
urge to turn their attention more to keeping bees. Country 
gentlemen who have accommodation and means to keep bees 
are numerous, and yet how few, comparatively speaking, 
keep them ! and where there is a family, how useful would the 
produce be to them, not speaking of the interest to them 
otherwise, as well as the lessons which might be of great 
benefit in after life. But I am digressing. 
It is important that the junctions are made secure, 
as bees will not work where a draught is until all is close, so 
that the bee-keeper doing this saves the bees much labour in 
closing up with propolis or wax. 
A good supply of calico is handy for the first layer, which 
keeps all clean, next either dried grass or any kind of woollen 
cloth, new or old, heaped on until the bees will not be affected 
by any change of temperature. A uniform degree of heat 
inside the hive is one of the best means towards a successful 
issue. In covering supers it is necessary to have them so 
that they can be easily inspected either from the windows or 
from between the bars at the top. The bee-keeper must, 
therefore, keep that in view, and arrange the coverings that 
a peep can be had at the super to see the progress made 
without disarranging the whole coverings, and let every 
manipulation be made from the back of the hive; never stand 
in front unless when it cannot be avoided. 
Whenever, from any circumstance, these instructions 
cannot be carried out use your own judgment in the matter 
what should best be done, remembering at all times that Art 
can never excel Nature. Always err on the safe side in what¬ 
ever you do. Have your hives extra strong rather than weak, 
and never depend on more than one week’s fine weather at a 
time unless the prognostications clearly indicate a longer 
continuance. Never allow bees to loiter, crowd out, or fan 
much at the door. A little ventilation will ease the bees of the 
trouble and carry away unaided by them all vitiated air 
and excessive moisture; that is what we call assisting nature. 
A very little experience soon shows by the action and activity 
of the bees whether more room is required or not. Whenever 
this is observed by fewer bees working lose no time in giving 
more super room, and never attempt to super hives unless the 
body is of sufficient size. As before mentioned, rather put two 
hives together and have one strong rather than two weak, 
but if my instructions are attended to weak hives will be the 
exception. 
Whenever a super is observed to be completed remove it 
at once. If the under one or ones, lift the topmost ones off in 
