May C, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
351 
expand so early as the centre bud. Feed the plants liberally during 
the time the buds are swelling. 
Snowdrop produces its flowers in masses, and owing to their 
small size they are very useful for buttonholes. It is best struck 
in February, topped twice, allowing all the stems to grow and 
perfect all its blossoms, 8-inch pots being large enough for this 
variety. 
The best variety to flower in pots as a market plant is Soeur 
Melainie ; its habit is dwarf, it retains its foliage in good condition 
for a long time, it is very floriferous, and, what is of great import¬ 
ance, its blooms expand together, thus making it very effective a3 a 
pot plant. Strike some cuttings in February and more in March ; 
as soon as rooted shift them into 3-inch pots, placing them in a 
frame close to the glass, keeping the frame close for a few days. 
As soon as they are rooting freely into the new soil take out the 
point of the shoot ; keep them sturdy by ventilating freely. Con 
tinue to top the shoots of those rooted in February until the middle 
of June. Transfer them into pots 6 or 7 inches in diameter the 
last week in J une, and by this time the shoots will have broken 
from their last topping. Those rooted in March should be topped 
continually till the first week in July, and when they have broken 
into growth again place them into their largest pots, by this means 
a succession of flowers is obtained. Another method of growing 
them is in this way. At the end of April or early in May divide 
the old stools or plants of last year’s growth, failing these use 
young plants of the current years growth, place them out in good 
soil, allowing ample space between them, and about the 20th July 
take off the tops 5 inches long and insert them rather thickly in 
4, 5, or 6-inch pots in a propagating case in a cool house in the 
same way as for cuttings early in the year, only in the present 
instance the temperature of the house is higher. Shade them from 
the sun for a few days till roots are emitted, gradually harden them 
and remove them outside on to a bed of ashes full in the sun ; treat 
them liberally by supplying liquid manure freely to the roots. 
When the bloom buds show colour support the branches either by 
placing one stake in the centre and tying the shoots to it in the 
same way as Mignonette or Bouvardias, or place a neat stick to 
each stem, which is of great assistance to this variety, as owing to 
the weakness of its peduncles the flowers have a tendency to droop, 
but if separate stakes are placed to each shoot the blooms can be 
supported, the plants will be 1 foot to 1 foot 6 inches high. 
Another way to treat them is as follows :—At the end of J une peg 
a few shoots down to the ground, when rooted take out their points, 
and when the first break occurs after topping cut them off and pot 
singly ; these in small pots make useful little decorative plants. 
If plants of the Bundle family are placed out in the same 
manner as advised and frequently topped till the middle of J une, 
about the first week in August take off the points of the branches 
6 inches long, placing six or seven in a 5-inch pot, treating them 
similarly to the last named, except that the buds are reduced to 
one on each shoot, these will then produce pretty little incurved 
flowers on plants 9 inches to 1 foot high. Dr. Macary. lilac 
Japanese, is a variety well suited to this treatment. Elaine is not 
a good variety to grow as a dwarf pot plant, it quickly runs up too 
tall, soon loses its foliage and does not open its flowers simultane¬ 
ously, which as a market plant is a defect, but for growing to 
supply cut blooms it is unrivalled. The three varieties of Cedo 
Nulli, Aigle d’Or, La Vieige, Patience, and Flame of the single 
sorts, and several Pompon and Anemone Pompons, are also suitable 
for cultivating as market pot plants. No doubt there are many 
others which are suitable also, but these are a few of the best, and 
the requirements of the neighbourhood with many other matters 
have to be considered before deciding upon two or three varieties 
to grow. 
DWARF PLANTS. 
The engraving (fig. 65) accompanying these notes represents a 
plant of Peter the Great 8 inches high, growing in a pot 3^ inches in 
diameter, producing one bloom, which measured 5 inches across. 
Chrysanthemums grown in this manner are not so often seen as 
their merits deserve, and they are well worthy of what little atten¬ 
tion they require in producing them. They further show how 
adaptable the Chrysanthemum is for various purposes of decoration. 
These miniature plants are well suited for indoor decoration in 
vases or for standing on the side stages of the conservatory, where 
dwarf plants only are required. Attractive flowers can be had 
from plants growingin pots 21 inches in diameter, but where larger 
blooms are coveted pots 41 inches across are better ; indeed, these 
are large enough for plants grown by this method for any purpose 
for which they may be required. From the first to the last week 
in August is the best time to take the cuttings. If they are 
inserted sooner the plants are apt to get too tall, and if taken much 
later the flowers are necessarily smaller. Where Chrysanthemums 
are grown for the production of large blooms some of the points 
are almost sure to be broken off by various causes about the time 
stated, as, for instance, heavy rains, high winds, and birds alighting 
on them, shoots at this stage being very brittle. Such shoots 
should be formed into cuttings 4 inches long, and some may be 
6 inches long. Dibble them firmly into sandy soil, using pots 
21 inches in diameter ; water well to settle the soil securely about 
the cuttings, plunge them in a gentle hotbed, shading them care¬ 
fully from the sun, syringe the foliage every afternoon of fine 
days, and by keeping the frame nearly close roots will be formed 
in about a month, when more air shouid be afforded, increasing the 
supply until the plants will bear full exposure without flagging. 
The best position for them at that stage of their growth is on a 
shelf close to the glass in a cool house. If it is desirable to have 
large blooms shift the plants into pots of the size previously named, 
using rich soil and potting firmly. By this method cuttings can 
only be procured by chance, and perhaps the varieties available are 
not those which are specially required, but it is better to utilise 
those shoots broken by accident than to destroy them. Two other 
systems of producing cuttings I will describe. Where plants are 
grown by what is termed the “ big bloom ” method, instead of 
allowing three branches on each plant have four, and when the 
buds form on the points of the shoots toward the end of August- 
the extra shoots can be topped and cuttings inserted. If the 
lower part of the same branch is cut off, the plant will be none the 
worse for growing four branches instead of three. Where a large 
number of dwarf plants are required the following is a good method 
of preparing the stock :—Insert cuttings in the usual way in 
January, pot the plants as required ; do not top them, but train up 
four shoots from each plant at the first break, removing all other 
side branches as fast as they appear. Secure the plants to one 
stake during their growth. When the bloom buds form, as they 
will at the time named, cut off the points, insert them, and treat 
as advised for the others. Nearly all varieties are suitable for this 
method, preference being given to those which are not weak in 
growth, avoiding all that have slender peduncles, the stout erect 
growers being best, as they require no support when in bloom.— 
E. Molyneux. 
THOUGHTS ON CURRENT TOPICS. 
If I have not recorded any pissing thoughts on the topics of the past 
few weeks it is not because there has been nothing worthy of comment, 
but rather because I have felt that space would be better occupied with 
other matter, of which, judging by a notification that has appeared, the 
