356 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May C, 1886. 
the cutting of young hedges', looking at it from a gardener’s point of view, 
I think they can be very well grown, and be more ornamental, when cut 
annually, say at the end of eight years, than if laid at the end of six 
years. But I admit it may not be so strong a fence.—R. Inglis. 
ROSE SHOW FIXTURES, 1886. 
For the guidance of those Societies which have not as yet fixed the 
dates of their exhibitions I append the following list of Rose Shows 
arranged to be held during the coming season by the National Rosa 
ociety and Societies affiliated with it, 
Bagshot and Windlesham Rose Society, at Bagshot, Tuesday, 
June 29th. 
Diss Horticultural Society, at Diss, and the Canterbury and Kent Rose 
Society, at Canterbury, Tuesday, June 29tb. 
Croydon Horticultural Society, at Croydon, Wednesday, June 30th. 
Farniogham Rose and Horticultural Society, at Farningham, Wednes¬ 
day, June 30th. 
Reigate Rose Association, at Reigate, Thursday, July let. 
Tunbridge Wells Horticultural Society, at Tunbridge Wells, Friday, 
July 2nd. 
Brockham Rose Association, at Dorking, Saturday, July 3rd. 
Eltham Rose and Horticultural Society, at Eltham, Saturday, July 3rd. 
National Rose Society, at South Kensington, Tuesday, July 6th. 
Cardiff Rose Society, at Cardiff, Wednesday, July 7th. 
Ealing, Acton, and Hanwell Horticultural Society, at Ealing, Wed¬ 
nesday, July 7ih. 
Sutton Amateur Rose Society, at Sutton, Wednesday, July 7th. 
Bath Floral Fete and Band Committee, at Bath, Thursday, July 8tb. 
Hitchin Rose Society, at Hitchin, Thursday, July 8th. 
Ipswich and East of England Horticultural Society, at Ipswich, 
Thursday, July 8th. 
Hereford and West of England Rose Society, at Hereford, Friday, 
July 9th. 
Maidstone Rose Club, at Maidstone, Friday, July 9th. 
Cray Valley and Sidcup Horticultural Society, at Frognal, Saturday, 
July 10th. 
Wirral Rose Society, at Birkenhead. Saturday, July 10th. 
East Gloucestershire Rose Society, at Moreton-in-Marsh, Tuesday, 
July 13th. 
National Rose Society, at Birmingham, Thursday, July 15th. 
West of Scotland Rosarians’ Society, at Helensburgh, Friday, 
July 16th. 
The only fixtures of Rose Shows not in connection with the National 
Rose Society that have as yet reached me are the two following:— 
Oxford Rose Show, Wednesday, July 7th. 
Crystal Palace Rose Show, Saturday, July 3rd. 
GLOIRE DE DIJON ROSE. 
It is questionable if any Rose possesses abetter constitution or flowers 
with greater freedom than this. For size and fragrance its blooms early 
in the season are unsurpassed, and very few Roses open their flowers so 
freely during the dull days of winter and spring. With this Rose alone 
there need be no difficulty in maintaining a continuous supply of blooms 
from the end of January until they can be gathered outside. They can 
be had earlier, for this year we were cutting from it at Christmas. In a 
cold house it comes into flower early in May—if in a southern aspect 
earlier—and can be succeeded by plants on a sunny wall outside. In this 
position they commence growing early, and are often destroyed by late 
frosts unless slight protection is afforded them. They are worthy of this ; 
a little old tiffany is ample for shielding their tender buds and foliage 
from cold winds and frost. 
For very early floweting plants that have been forced early this 
season are decidedly the best. Ours for this purpose are trained under 
the roof of the Rose house, and are in 10-inch pots. They have been 
flowering since Christmas, and have still several buds upon them. They 
will presently be transferred into 12-inch pots without disturbing the old 
ball very much ; in fact, the drainage and loose soil from the top of the 
ball only will be removed. They will not be severely pruned, but thinned 
to induce the formation of new shoots of moderate strength, for these 
thoroughly ripened are preferable for early forcing. These plants will in 
all probability be grown under glass the whole of the season if the space 
they occupy is not required for others. If so, they will be turned out and 
secured to a south wall or some warm sunny position to ripen and harden 
their wood. We top-dressed the soil towards the end of October, and then 
start them gently into growth. They can either be trained when brought 
indoors under the roof or round fine Btakes inserted near the sides of the 
pots. No pruning at that season is attempted, and no feeding is practised 
after the plants are placed outside, the object being to ripen the growth 
thoroughly and not to encourage its extension. 
Small plants that were rooted in autumn in 3 to 6-inch pots will flower 
about the end of January or early the following month. If these have 
been wintered in a cold house, such as a vinery or Peach house, their 
roots will be active, and signs of growth will be visible. These should be 
repotted, giving them a shift 2 inches larger than those they are now 
growing in. Place them at once in a temperature of 50° to 55° at night, 
the latter during mild weather only. No air should be admitted until 
the weather is sufficiently genial in spring to avoid chilling the plants, 
which would he certain to produce mildew. About the beginning of June 
the plants may safely be grown on without the aid of artificial heat. It 
will be seen soon after the plants have commenced activity that one or 
more fairly strong shoots will issue from the base. When these are 1 foot 
or 18 inches long, the remaining portion of the plant may be removed, 
and one or two encouraged to extend upright. Care must be taken not to 
destroy the points of these shoots, or lateral growths will be formed. When 
the plants are from 3 to 4 feet in length they may be placed into 10-inch 
pots, which will be large enough for plants with stems 14 to 16 feet in 
length with several strong lateral growths upon them, for this variety, 
unlike Marshal Niel, will branch towards the top. As growth extends 
they should be trained under the roof of the greenhouse or any other 
structure where they will be exposed to light and sunshine. Those for 
early forcing should be kept under glass until the end of August, when 
they may be turned out to harden, or they may be left under glass until 
the middle of September, when they can be trained round stakes and 
placed outside exposed to one or two eaily frosts. When these Roses are 
subjected to frost they enjoy a complete rest afterwards, and when excited 
in heat start freely and vigorously. If left outside, these plants will be 
in capital condition for housing towards the end of November, and if 
started gently into growth will unfold their flowers towards the end of 
January or early the following month. Roses brought forward gradually 
to flower towards the end of March and during April will possess fine 
foliage, and for this purpose some of them may be trained to a few stakes 
so as to form even bushes when they flower. Plants trained after this 
manner are very effective with from tvvo to three dozen fine flowers upon 
them and the whole of the stakes hidden from view by the foliage. For 
purposes of decoration this mode of training is decidedly the best, but 
when the blooms are grown only for cutting the plants are just as well 
trained round four or five stakes. If plenty of these plants are grown, 
they can be retarded by keeping them in a cold house or frame and intro¬ 
ducing them into heat as required to form a succession until they can be 
had outside. 
As these cease flowering it must be decided whether they ate to be re¬ 
tained instead of those that have been forced early in 12-inch p ts ; if not, 
they can be cut close back and allowed to start in a cool house, to be 
finally planted outside or conveyed to the rubbish heap. Young plants 
can be grown on so easily that we do not care to retain them for indoor 
purposes after they have been flowered in the size pots mentioned. Oiher 
plants started later, even while flowering, often produce strong shoots from 
the base ; and when this is the case they may be pruned close back and 
trained under the roof for early flowering the following year. After these 
have fairly started into growth they may be transferred into 12-inch pots, 
and after flowering can be retained for outdoor planting or be conveyed to 
the rubb sh heap. 
Many may not be so foitunate as to have plants in the condition in¬ 
dicated, but some splendid pdants may be raised for flowering early next 
spring from cuttings inserted at once. Cuttings of young wood, not half 
ripe, root freely at this season if inserted together in 5 and 6-inch pots, 
shaded from the sun and kept air-tight until r oted, which will take place 
in about three weeks. Two joints of wood will be sufficient for the cutting, 
and the top eye only should be left above the soil. After insertion give a 
good watering, and cover the pots with bellglasses or a handlight. We 
generally employ the latter, and place it in a temperature of 60° to 65° by 
night. If kept air-tight the cuttings will not damp, and they will not 
need a farther application of water until rooted. When they reach this 
stage they must be gradually hardened to light and air until ihey will bear 
full exposure in the house in which they are rooted. As soon as they are 
hardened place them singly into 3-inch pots and grow on for a time in the 
same temperature. By the time they are 1 foot high they should be in 
6-inch pots, and from these when full of roots be transferred to 10-inch 
pots—the size they are to flower in. By the time they have filled the 
second-sized pots with roots they can be grown on with the remainder of 
the stock without the aid of artificial heat. These plants should be grown 
under glass the whole of the season, for it will be late before they have 
ripened their growth sufficiently to flower well. Towards the end of 
October they may be trained round stakes and stood outside until frost 
compels them to be taken in. Where earlier plants are grown the'e should 
not be brought into flower until the spring has well advanced ; if they can 
come on under cool conditions they will flower all the better. They can 
easily be retaided by keeping them in cold frames. 
This Rose succeeds admirably in a compost of lich fibry loam of a 
moderately light nature, to which may be added one 6-inch potful of 
bonemeal and the same quantity of soot to each baTrowful of loam. If 
the loam used is heavy a few quarter-inch bones and nearly one-third of 
leaf mould may be used with the addition of coarse sand. If the loam is 
rich we prefer using it without adding manure to the compost, which may 
result in a little stronger growth, but it will nut be so firm as when grown in 
the compost previously named. The object is to obtain firm well-ripened 
growth, and not pithy wood that is liable to die in winter or fail just when 
tbe flower buds are half swelled. When plants are raised from cuttings a 
little leaf mould, say one-third, may with advantage be added to the com¬ 
post to encourage rapid growth. In the compost for those plants trans¬ 
ferred from 10 to 12-iuch pots about one-seventh of decayed manure may 
be used. 
When potting these plants, clean wel-draired pots should be employed. 
The old balls should not be disturbed further than tbe removal of the 
drainage and loo'e soil about the surface. Take care that tbe plants do 
not become root-bound before they are transferred into larger pots. The 
soil should be pressed firmly into the pots, as this insures sturdy growth 
and saves labour in watering. 
To grow this variety or aoy o her R' se to perfection they should never 
