May G, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDE YER. 
357 
suffer frr>m an insufficient supply of water at their roots. Not even 
during the resting period should the soil become dust dry. During that 
period it must be kept in an intermediate state as nearly as possible. 
Apply water carefully after the plants are first potted until they are 
rooting freely in the new soil, when liberal applications may be giveD, 
No feeding will be needed until the plants have filled their pots with roots, 
when they may be watered every time they need supplies with liquid 
manure in a weak state In preference to feeding with liquid we apply 
a little artificial manure to the surface of the soil once a fortnight, and 
give clear water only. This is continued until growth is completed, and 
then discontinued until activity commences again during forcing opera¬ 
tions. We have invariably found that the roots do not work actively 
mar the surface of the soil when liquid is applied, it appears to sour the 
surface soil ; but when artificial manure is applied the roots work very 
freely on the surface. 
These plants should he kept free from insects, which will be the case 
if the plants are syringed with a weak solution of softsoap, and water 
once or twice daily according to the state of the weather. Aphides are 
best destroyed by lightly fumigating the house in which they are growing 
with tobacco smoke. Two or three applications are much safer and 
better than one very strong fumigation. Mildew will not appear if the 
plants are properly treated and a free vigorous growth maintained from 
the first. Cold draughts or a check from any cause will result in an 
attack of mildew. When the plants are attacked nothing is better or 
destroys it more quickly than 1 oz. of softs ’ap dissolved in a gallon of 
water into which one good handful of sulphur has been stirred. The plants 
should be well syringed with this solution, which should be left upon 
them for two or three days, and then syringed off with clean tepid water. 
Sulphide of potassium has been strongly recommended as a remedy for 
mildew, but those who have not used it should do so carefully, for it will 
discolour white paint—it turns it the colour of rusty iron. As soon as 
sve discovered this we placed it on one side to be tried on plants out of 
doors. 
Such varieties as Mardchal Niel, Reve d’Or, Larmarque, Cheshunt 
Hybrid, Reine Marie Henriette, Belie Lyonnaise, William Allen Richard¬ 
son, a pretty free Rose and well worth growing, will do well on the same 
principles of culture as advised for Gloire de Dijon. With the exception 
of the first men'ioned none is so free, and even it does not bear the same 
forcing as Gloire de Dijon. The fourth and fifth are worth growing and 
forcing for their colour.—W m. Bardnet. 
HORTICULTURAL SHOWS. 
The following are the dates of the principal Shows to he held during 
May and June this year. The Rose Shows are given in another column. 
The great event of the season will ho doubt be the provincial Show of the 
Royal Horticultural Society at Liverpool at the end of June. 
MAY. 
11th.—Royal Horticultural Society, South Kensington, Committee 
meetings and Promenade Show. 
12th and 13th.—Birmingham Exhibition of Orchids in the Botanic 
Gardens. 
19th.—Royal Botanic Society, Regent’s Park, Summer Show. 
21st and 22nd.—Crystal Palace, Summer Show. 
25th.—Royal Horticultural Society Committee meetings and Exhibition of 
Pot Roses, Azaleas, &c 
JUNE. 
8th.—Royal Horticultural Society Committee meetings ; Orchid Exhibi¬ 
tion. 
9th.—R >yal Botanic Society second Summer Show. 
11th to 18ch.—Manchester National Horticultural Exhibition, Old Traf- 
ford. 
22nd.—Royal Horticultural Society Committee meetings and Pelar¬ 
gonium Show. 
23-d and 25tb.—York Floral F&te. 
29th to July 5th.—Royal Horticultural Society Provincial Show at 
Liverpool. 
30th.—Croydon Horticultural Show. 
30th.—Royal Botanic Society’s Evening Fete. 
PLANTS FOR SHRUBBERY AND WOODLAND 
BORDERS. 
(Continued from page 319.) 
Delphiniums are stately, and their metallic blue flowers 
very beautiful—most blue of varied shade. They like open spots, 
but need shelter against winds, which shrubs afford perfectly. 
The finest of all is perhaps the Gloxinia of the woods—the Fox¬ 
gloves—spotted Digitalis. Seed sown about this time, the plants 
pricked off and otherwise attended to, will be strong by autumn 
and fit to plant anywhere, doing well in any soil; but they flower 
longer in poor than in rich soil. They need open spaces, but 
with shelter near. They seed freely, and make grand masses. 
Honesty, though a biennial, when once established maintains its 
own. its seeds being scattered naturally give rise to a numerous 
progeny, and very effective they are in early summer. Seed 
sown in spring will give plants fit to put out in autumn. The 
variegated form is attractive. Charming as Wood Anemones 
are, they improve immensely by having as associates the varieties 
of A. coronaria and A. fulgens. Sow a bed now, and transplant 
them in autumn. Oxalis rosea is simply as hardy as Wood 
Sorrel, and does well enough in well-drained soil in woods, and 
it comes freely enough from seed sown in a frame, the plants 
being grown on outdoors and put out in autumn. Autumn is 
the time to plant, for when left until spring the plants hardly 
get hold before summer is upon them, and they get dried up. 
In order to give the plants a start clear away the coarse weeds, 
break the ground thoroughly for the stronger-growing kinds, 
and keep them from being overpowered and smothered in the 
year after planting, and once they get firmly established they 
give no further trouble, only coarse weeds ought never to be 
allowed to predominate. 
In planting just look ai'ound, and as the Primroses appear 
naturally so strive to put out the nurselings. Irregular-shaped 
masses as far from the circles and ovals, triangles and diamonds 
as possible. There are many places in shrubberies and woods 
that are suited to plants of a higher class. I was particularly 
struck the other day with fine masses of Lilium candidum that 
in front of sheltered bushes had taken to themselves forms on 
the grass in what had no doubt been a bed on a lawn some time. 
They were only in strong leaf of course, but it was not difficult 
to portray the effect of such masses in early summer with a back¬ 
ground of evergreens. L. tigi'inum does well in such positions; 
L. croceum, L. davuricum (umbellatum) vars., L. chalcedonicum, 
L. Martagon vars., and L. superbum vars. all succeed admirably, 
being planted about 4 inches deep in the first instance, and then 
left alone until they begin to push each other out of the soil, as 
they will when they become strong, and then is the time to take 
some of them up and plant elsewhere. L. aura^um is quite at 
home in sheltered places. Gladiolus of the blandus, byzantinus, 
cardinalis, Colvilli, communis, floribundus, insignis, psittacinus 
vera, and sagittalis are quite charming in open sunny positions 
amongst shrubs where the soil is light, and G. ramosus vars. do 
first rate in open spaces. All increase rapidly and form effec¬ 
tive groups They should be planted in autumn about 4 inches 
deep. In places that are not very much shaded we can bring 
together the Hellebores or Christmas Roses. H. corsicus is a 
fine shrub-like evergreen with deeply serrated tripartite leaves 
on stems about 2 feet high, and has greenish white flowers in 
winter and spring. Then there is H. viridis in a similar way. 
with green flowers, and H. atro-virens, with H antiquorum and 
H. abchasicus albus, both having greenish white flowers, and the 
similar H. olympicus. For mixing with these we have purples, 
H. cancasicus punctatus, H atro-rubens major, H. abchasicus 
metallicus, H. colchicus, and abchasicus purpureus. For mar¬ 
gining H. guttatus, H. niger and its vars. altifolius, caucisicus, 
and Scotch and Manchester varieties of H. niger angustifolius, 
and besides these there are many garden varieties. These like 
moist but well-drained soil. If Winter Aconite and Hepiticas 
are associated with the Hellebores the effect is superb. Trolliuses 
in variety give their golden globes in early summer, and do well 
in moderate shade, with soil similar to Hellebores—moist, not 
wet. 
In semi-wild places what is finer than Anemone japonica and 
its white variety P They like protecting company, growing, flower - 
ing, an<Lincreasing to an amazing extent, and in sheltered spots 
the flowers are had much later than in the rich soil and open 
spaces of dressed grounds. Tritomas show finer there than 
isolated on lawns. The different kinds need never lack suitable 
positions in a stretch of shrubbery or woodland They look 
best when seated on a gentle knoll with Pampas Grass high up 
in a recess, for whilst some plants tell best at a close view, others 
show to greatest advantage in the distance. 
Open glades give scope for patches of German Irises, and the 
taller I. orientalis, Hemerocallis, Asphodelus, AnthefioumSl 
Funkias, Pseonias, &c., forming effective groups, only avoid 
formality. Dictamnus, that does not like the bare border and 
constant hoeing of gardens is at home there, and so are the 
Michaelmas Daisies (Asters) set back where they get plenty of 
sun, with shelter from winds. The perennial Sunflowers spread 
rapidly if only the soil is loose, and their large flowers on stately 
stems tell well against a background of sylvan gloom. Specimens 
—nay, groups—with wildlings scattered about like stray sheep 
from a flock, of Acanthus, Eryngium, Ferula, and their like, with 
Rheums officinale and Emodi where there is a good depth of 
moist soil and plenty of room both vertical and lateral, such 
places suiting the gigantic Polygonums cordatum, sacha’.imnse, 
and Sieboldi, Veratrums nigrum, album, and viride, and Bocconia 
cordata, with Phytolacca decandra. Drier places will suit Heli- 
anthemums, Geraniums in variety, and Galega officinalis and 
var. alba. These and many others can be spared from garden 
