May 20, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
395 
results to be obtained wlien growing under the conditions indi¬ 
cated at the head of these notes. It also requires a constantly 
moist medium for its roots. It is true they need not be allowed 
to get very dry when they are grown in pots, but the fluctuations 
in the degree of moisture are often very great unless they are in 
very careful hands. And as it is rather a gross feeder, therefore 
when it is planted out in a suitable medium it can, as it were, 
attend to its own requirements, and is not so much at the mercy 
of the cultivator. It must not be supposed that I am advocating 
frame culture in preference to pot culture. For all ordinary 
decorative purposes the Gloxinia must be cultivated in pots, and 
I have had a full measure of success in that way; but when a 
quantity is required for cutting purposes I strongly advocate 
the planting-out system. Having devoted an ordinary two-light 
to that purpose every year since 1878, I do not write without 
experience in the matter. 
Last year my frame was a failure, but that was not owing to 
the system, it was owing to very old and exhausted corms having 
been planted. Some were seven and eight years old, and I wished 
to try them in the frame for the sake of experience, as I was sure 
they would do no good in pots. Seedlings raised the previous 
autumn give excellent returns, but if they are twelve months old 
when planted, instead of three or four months, then the size, 
substance, and quantity of the flowers as compared with those 
the same age and same varieties in pots is something extra¬ 
ordinary. The most general method now adopted for raising a 
stock of Gloxinias is from seed, but if it is desired to keep certain 
varieties already in stock, then they should be propagated from 
leaves, or by division of the corm when starting into growth. 
When the latter plan is adopted the cut surface should be dressed 
with lime to dry up the sap. I have sharp sand placed around 
them when being potted. If seed is sown in pots, pans, or boxes 
containing a couple of inches of fine peat with a liberal addition 
of sand, and placed in an early Cucumber frame at the end of 
January or beginning of February, and kept growing freely by 
pricking off and potting until they are establised in 4 or 4^ inch 
pots, they will commence flowering about June, some will be 
later. The seed should be sown thinly and evenly, and barely 
covered with the soil. A piece of glass placed across them will 
prevent too rapid evaporation. If a piece of glass is not handy 
a newspaper will be as well or better. This may be kept over 
them until the seed germinates, when the seedlings should be 
gradually inured to the light, and only be shaded from strong 
sunshine ; and if grown as recommended the strongest of them 
will now be ready for planting out. 
As the present time is favourable in every respect, numbers 
of frames being emptied of their contents and perhaps nothing 
else in particular to place in them, let those who require Gloxinias 
for cutting purposes try a frame, and I think they will not need 
to be reminded to do it again next year. A half-spent hotbed 
will be better than a new one, as there is a danger of the latter 
being too hot and steamy. Let an old bed be turned over, and 
if there be a gentle warmth it will be sufficient; allow it to settle 
for three or four day3, then tread it down level, place on the 
frame, and having mixed a compost of two parts peat, one of 
leaf mould, and one of sand, place it in the frame to a depth of 
4 inches, and plant the Gloxinias about 18 inches apart; water 
with a rose without wetting the foliage, leave a little ventilation, 
and shade from the sun’s rays. In due season the flowers will 
appear, and will continue to be produced until the approach of 
winter. As the plants grow and come into flower great care 
must be exercised in watering. Be sure that they require water 
before applying it, and when it is being done pour it under the 
leaves and not in the centre of the plants, being very careful to 
avoid wetting the flowers. 
So effective are Gloxinias grown in this way it is a marvel 
that some of our enterprising nurserymen or enthusiastic 
amateurs have not gone to the length of planting a house full of 
them. Carefully arranged at planting time, and the sides of the 
beds and stages draped Torenias, Thunbergias, Panicum, and 
Tradescantia, they would vie with the Orchid exhibitions and 
Amaryllis exhibitions ; but as I think they are more essentially 
an amat ur’s rather than a nurseryman’s dower, I shall hope to 
hear or read, ere the summer is over, of some lady or gentleman 
having the courage and enterprise to carry the above suggestion 
into effect, and thu3 have an exhibition of their own both 
beautiful and uncommon, and one also costing very little 
money. 
In conclusion, I ought to say—and this is impoitant—that 
the soil in which Gloxinias are planted or potted should not be 
pressed firm, but be kept loose and open as possible. For the 
guidance of those who would prefer to have a few select sorts 
instead of running the risk of having a batch of inferior vai-ieties 
amongst seedliugs, I append a list of few which I have found to 
be of sterling merit and rarely surpassed for the quality of their 
flowers and richness of their colours : —Belford, Boule de Niege, 
Charme de Lutece, Charles Dickens, Clytis, G.imos, Miss H. de 
Rothschild, Marquis of Lome, Mr. Gladstone, Madame Patey, 
Madame Duval, Ment Blanc, Ne Plus Ultra, Princess of Teck, 
Prince Arthur, Rose d’Amour, Roxelane, Sir S. Northcote, Sang 
Goulois, Vesuvius, William Goldring, Prince Leopold, Madame 
Thibaut, and Rubens.—J. Udale, Elford, Tamworth. 
CHOU DE GILBERT AND CHOU DE BURGHLEY, 
Mr. Abbey on page 292 described Chou de Gilbert as a Cabbage- 
Brussels Sprout, whilst “ Thinker ” considers it—I s-p ak from memory, 
for I have unfortunately mislaid the Journal of May 6th—a Broccoli- 
Brussels Sprout. Mr. G lbert kindly sent me some p ants last summer, 
and up to about six weeks ago 1 found it as Mr. Abbey describes it, and 
since then it has developed into a Broccoli-Brussels Sprout, or as I should 
feel inclined to call it, a Chou de Burghley Brussels Sprout. The sprouts, 
unlike the Brussels, are elongated, tapering in some cases to a sharp point, 
and the stems are well clothed from top to bottom with them. They are 
very delicious, being very marrow-like in flavour. Mr. Gilbert, I under¬ 
stand, has several types of this vegetable, and doubtless we shall hear of 
some more “ Chous.” 
Chou de Burghley is very much improve!. I have been cutting it in 
all stages of growth since November, and I have now about half a dozen, 
which are forming nice Broccoli heads inside their Cabbage envelopes. 
One I have retained for seed, for it is quite unique. It first developed 
several sprouts up the stem, which soon became miniature Broccolis, the 
flower not being hidden. These I cut and ate, keeping my eye on the 
head for about ten days, and to-day, May 12th, I removed gently the 
outer covering, and found within a perfectly formed white Broccoli. This 
is the right kind of sprouting Broccoli, if it can be perpetuated.— 
H. S. Easty. 
THE BOILER CONTEST AT LIVERPOOL. 
The following are the conditions of the boiler contest at the Royal 
Horticultural Society’s Great Provincial Slow to be held at Liverpool 
from Tuesday, June 29th, to Monday, July 5th, 1886 (inclusive) :— 
1, Competitions will be in three classes—viz : — 
Class 1. 2000 feet. 
:, 3, .. .. 500 „ 
2, Each competitor to supply and fix his own piping and boiler, with 
all necessary fittings complete, at his own expense. 
3, The Royal Horticultural Society will supply the fuol and the ther¬ 
mometers required for the oontest. 
4, All the hot-water piping to be 4-inch (inside size). The chimneys 
not to exceed 20 feet in height, above the ground level. 
5, The height of flow-pips above top of boiler not to exceed 24 inches 
(overall) at boiler, nor to rise more than 6 inches in 100 feet. 
6, Each boiler to have not more than 1 flow and 2 return connections.. 
7, The piping to be fixed as under ; — 
In the 500 feet, 3 flows and 3 returns; two deep. 
„ 1000 ,, 5 ,, 5 ,, „ 
„ 2000 „ 10 „ 10 „ „ 
with 3 5, or 10 syphons or boxes respectively, at extreme end. 
8, The total amount of piping in each case not to be less than 
spe 'ifled. 
9, The competition in each class will begin simultaneously, about 
mid-day, and last for 24 hours. 
That for the 2000 Let on the first day of Show. 
„ 1000 „ „ second day of Show. 
„ 500 „ „ third day of Show. 
10, In the case of boilers set in brick-work, they must b9 fixed and the 
brick-work dried by firing, and thoroughly cooled down again by the time 
of competition beginning. 
11, Each competitor must be prepared to fix the thermometer on the 
part of the plain piping where directed, on the morning of the compe- 
tition. . 
12, Every point for and against each boiler cm be pointed out, and 
will be carefully considered by the Judges, and may ba embodied in the 
report of the contest, so that competitors should carefully avoid anything 
that might tell against them. 
13, Intending competitors must send in, at time of entry, full particu¬ 
lars as to hea’ing power, &c., of their boilers, with price at which they are 
prepared to supply the public, which will be published. 
14, One or more mela's will be given in each class, if the Judges 
consider the competition worthy of such an acknowledgment. 
Applications for space should be made on or before Saturday, June 
12th, to Mr. A. F. Barron, Superintendent, Royal Horticultural Society s 
Gardens, Chiswick._ 
NOTES FROM MY GARDEN IN 1885.—No. 3. 
GREENHOUSE. 
I OFTEN quake when I am writing these notes lest someone who may 
not know the small extent of my garden, and, reading them, might be 
tempted to pay me a visit, and I should seem to him a deceiver, and be 
met by the exclamation, “ For what in the world did he make all this fuss 
about his garden 1 I don’t see anything very particular about it.” Well, 
