410 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
t May 2\ 1888. 
some 7 to 8 feet in height, and we have others 10 feet in diameter at base, 
and 15 feet high, that are equally symmetrical and ornamental. It is 
undoubtedly right to retard the upward growth of the centre of the tree 
till the lower tiers of branches have such a good start that plenty of sap 
will be diverted into them to sustain health, vigour, and fruitfulness. 
Keep every branch far enough from the others to afford free admission of 
light and air to every part of it, for remember the legitimate purpose of 
the growth of a fruit tree is to hear fruit. To this end also the lateral 
growth of fruit-bearing spurs should not be crowded thickly together. 
Cordons and palmetto venders have admirably supplanted the faulty old 
horizontal espalier. The chief thing demanding early and close attention 
in training palmette venders is to give ihe bottom branches a good start. 
The full importance of this is realised as soon as we see that the end of 
every branch is upon a common level, filling the space once devoted to 
the top branch alone of the horizontal espalier. Diagonal cordons answer 
best as espaliers, because of the greater length of stem which an angle of 
45° affords. This is an attractive, profitable, and elastic method of fruit 
culture, alike suitable for large or small gardens, the troes being only 
18 inches apart. The garden must indeed be small where space cannot 
be found for a dozen or two of them. We recently saw a small garden 
where the whole of the bush fruits were trained to strained wires espalier 
fashion, and certainly we never saw bushes with better promise of an 
abundant crop of fruit, and the appearance was singularly neat and 
attractive. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —Sunshine has of late helped considerably. Such seasonable 
influences should be fully utilised, as under such conditions the growth 
in these plants may be advanced more expeditiously and with safety, 
provided proper care be given to the ventilation, which in sunny weather 
should be attended to early in the morning, because in Pine cultivation 
too much moisture cannot be had within the house and the plants, provided 
it is dispelled off the leaves of the plants before powerful sun acts fully 
upon them. In order to maintain a genial condition of the atmosphere 
freely moisten all available surfaces about the houses whenever they 
become dry. Especially is this necessary just before closing time, which 
should be sufficiently early in the afternoon to keep the temperature at 85° 
to 90° for a considerable time afterwards. In dry weather syringing will 
be needed daily, but this must be regulated by the condition of the house 
and plants. In the case of the plants the best criterion is the axils of the 
leaves. Those during the growing season should never be allowed to 
become quite dry, because many feeding roots exist around the stems of 
Pine plants which only derive support from the water in the axils of the 
leaves. Be careful at this season not to allow any plant to suffer for want 
of water, but give an adequate supply, and in all cases with some stimulant 
such as guano, but be very careful to avoid giving it too strong. Let the 
requisite attention be given to shading; the thinner the material is for the 
purpose the better, as only enough shade is required to prevent the sun 
scorching the leaves or fruit. Dispense with fire heat as much as 
possible, but a little will still be necessary in the succession as well as 
fruiting departments. Continue giving attention as occasion requires to the 
removal of all surplus suckers, leaving only one or two on each plant for 
stock, and close at 90° in the fruiting department. Recently potted plants 
should have a liberal supply of heat, 90° to 95° at the base of the pots 
will induce roots to take hold of the soil quickly. 
Vines. — Houses of Ripe Grapes. —The temperature should be lower, 
but sufficient fire heat will be necessary to prevent its falling below 60°, 
and to allow of a free circulation of air, but sufficient moisture must be 
present in the atmosphere to prevent injury to the foliage from drought 
or the spread of insects. Examine the borders, and if sufficiently moist 
let them be covered with some dry non-conducting material to prevent 
evaporation, always bearing in mind that Vines carrying ripe Grapes in 
June and July require more water than they do in the autumn. If water 
is necessary afford it in the early part of a fine day. Allow a moderate 
extension of the laterals, which will keep the roots active, prevent the 
foliage ripening prematurely, and by shading assist in the Grapes 
retaining their colour longer, as ripe Hamburghs lose colour exposed to 
the direct rays of the sun for some time, and which must be prevented by 
shading with a double thickness of herring nets run over the roof lights. 
Grapes Stoning. —Keep the temperature steady at night—60° to 65° 
being sufficient, as it is a process that requires time, and the roots are 
better in advance of the demands than the lacking of supplies by the 
berries for the completion of the most exhausting process to which Vines 
are subjected. The borders must be kept well supplied with moisture 
passed through a rich surface mulching, or, if this be not present, liquid 
manure should be given, and always in a tepid state, as any check now 
given the roots may induce shanking. If there is any fear of the latter 
allow lateral extension so as to accelerate root-action, as shanking is 
almost always a result of turpid roots. When the stoning is completed 
give a thorough soaking of tepid water or liquid manure, according to the 
requirements of the Vines, and mulch with some light non-conducting 
material. Maintain a moderate degree of moisture in the atmosphere 
after the Grapes begin to colour for the benefit of the foliage, and to 
insure the swelling-off of the berries. Afford a gentle circulation of air 
constantly, increase it early in the morning and with advancing sun, and 
reduce correspondingly with the declining sun heat, closing sufficiency 
early to retain sun heat. 
Late Houses. —Keep the stopping and tying regularly performed, and 
aim at an even spread of foliage all over the trellis by laying in laterals as 
long as ihere is space for full development without crowding. Thin out 
the berries liberally, giving preference to medium-sized compact bunches, 
which finish much better than large loose ones, the berries of the latter 
having long footstalks. Examine the borders, and top-dress in accordance 
with the requirements of the Vine 0 . If young and full of vigour, and 
the borders rich, a slight dressing of short horsedung will be found most 
suitable ; but if poor in soil and the Vines not very vigorous a good 
mulching with cowdung will be found highly beneficial. 
By this time the thinning of the main crop of Muscats will have been 
brought to a close, and the borders will be in a fit state for mulching with 
good manure, and need copious supplies of water or liquid manure. It 
will be necessary to keep the external borders well covered with leaves or 
litter to prevent the escape of moisture, and on light soils the application 
of water or diluted liquil manure may be necessary if the weather 
be dry. 
LadyDowne’s, Mrs. Pince, Black Muscat, Black Morocco, and some of 
the white kinds will now be in flower, and they should be cross-fertilised 
with Hamburgh pollen, it being a good plan to have a Hamburgh Vine 
in flower for that purpose. Muscats are very often associated with late 
thick-skinned Grapes ; and well as the thick-skinned do up to a certaim 
stage in the same temperature as Muscats, the temperature necessary for 
the proper finish of Muscats is too high for the b'ack varieties, and they 
often remain deficient in finish. To grow the finer black Grapes they 
should be kept out of the Muscat house, and have the benefit of a long 
period for making and maturing their growth and crops. Gros Colman-, 
though it will stand any amount of heat, suffers ia such in foliage under 
bright sun, and can only be obviated by a circulation of air, and allowing, 
a long season of growth. 
Lifted Vines. —Look well after Vines that were lifted last autumn as 
well as newly planted young ones, and encourage new roots to find their 
way to the surface by the use of good stable manure as a mulching. 
Give the tops generous treatment, and encourage free growth by closing 
early in the afternoon with plenty of sun heat and atmospheric moisture- 
Do not exceed a temperature of 60° by night until the roots have taken 
freely to the soil. Disbud lightly, and stop side shoots at once to secure 
plump buds, and then allow the laterals to ramble over every part of the 
trellis. 
Aff >rd air more freely to early Vines in pots intended for fruiting next 
spring, an 1 syringe the foliage to keep it free from insects, as future 
success is made or marred hy the preservation or premature destruction 
of the main leaves. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Greenhouse Rhododendrons. —The majority of these plants will have 
flowered, even if they have been subjected to cool treatment during the 
winter and spring. All that require repotting should be attended to at 
once, using for a compost good fibry peat with a liberal dash of coarse 
sand. The pots used should be clean, well drained, and the new soil 
pressed firmly round the sides of the ball. Care must be taken that the 
soil is in a satisfactory state for moisture when potted. These plants 
must be very carefully watered until the roots are working freely into the 
new soil. Water should be withheld as long as possible after potting, but 
on no account should they be allowed to suffer during the growing season 
by becoming dry at their roots ; on the other hand, over-watering will 
prove detrimental. The pots should be stood on some moisture-holding 
material in the greenhouse or other structure whore the house can be kept 
moderately close aid the atmosphere moist. The stage, pots, and plants 
should be syringed at least twice daily. Under this treatment they will 
quickly start into growth, which must be encouraged, for it is important 
to complete it as early in the season as possible if a good supply of flowers 
is anticipated. They shoul 1 be shaded from the strong rays of the sun 
during the time they are making their growth. 
Hybrid Perpetual Roses. —Plants that have been forced and thoroughly 
hardened may now be turned out of doors. They must be stood or plunged 
in a warm sheltered position for a few weeks, and it may prove necessary 
to protect them occasionally from the effects of cold winds or frost. For 
this purpose two or more rows of plants may be arranged together, so 
that stakes can be placed into the ground on each side and tied together 
at the top, so that a length of tiffany can be placed over them without 
pressing on the plants. Secure a few strings to the tiffany, so that it can 
be fastened to the stakes to prevent winds blowing it off. If No 3 tiffany 
is used a good per-centage of light will be admitted to the plants, even 
if it is thought wise to keep them covered all day. For the first week- 
after turning them out it will be wise to cover them at night. The foliage 
must be preserved healthy and fresh, then good results may be looked for 
another season, which can scarcely bs expected if the foliage is destroyed 
early in the season. These plants should be well syringed on the morning 
of fine days when they are uncovered. 
Tea varieties growing under glass must now be ventilated liberally when¬ 
ever the weather is favourable. When the blooms are expanding, the blinds, 
if fixed to the house, may with advantage be used for a few hours to 
prevent the flowers opening too rapidly. The temperature will now rise 
by sun heat very high, and if not liberally ventilated they will be attacked 
by red spider. The syringe must be freely used twice daily, and if 
attention is paid to watering, the foliage may be kept free from insects;. 
Young plants that have been struck from cuttings this spring must be 
potted as they require more root room. They must be fully exposed to 
light in a growing temperature, and the flower buds removed as tbey 
appear. 
Daphne indica. —More of these plants are ruined by being kept in 
the greenhouse than by any other cause. They cannot be kept too 
cool, and even during the winter they are quite safe when plunged 
in coil ashes in a cold frame. They should now be plunged in a cold 
