418 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 27, 1886. 
stopping, those plants that are to be trained on standards should 
be allowed to develope a certain number of shoots until they 
are sufficiently long to reach the outside of the trellis when 
pinching and training should commence. Those intended to 
form natural heads without the aid of a trellis should be pinched 
from time to time as a few inches of growth has been made, so 
that a close compact head will be formed. 
Pyramids can be grown from a single plant by pinching 
the leader as it extends upwards to cause the formation of 
branches to furnish the base. This takes a much longer time 
to furnish the trellis thoroughly than when four plants as soon 
as they are rooted are placed together into a 4-inch pot. The 
centre plant should be trained upright, and the other three 
®utwards until they are sufficiently long to reach the outside of 
the trellis; but this will not be the case until they are placed 
into their largest pots. These should then be pinched, and the 
central plant about three times before it reaches the limit of the 
trellis. This is important in order to furnish the base of the 
trellis, for if this can be accomplished there is no difficulty in 
covering the upper portion. 
Standards and pyramids when trained upon trellises take a 
longer time to cover them than those having no trellis do to 
form a good head, therefore they must be grown under glass for 
fully a month or six weeks, probably more, longer than the 
others. When the head has commenced forming, and the 
weather is genial, the plants should be carefully hardened, and 
then grown on outside for the remainder of the summer. Care 
must be taken that the plants when turned out are not checked 
and growth brought to a standstill, or they will fail to make the 
progress desired to form good heads. The trained plants, when 
it is certain that the trellises will be well filled with wood, may 
also be grown outside. 
When outside the pots should be plunged if practicable to 
shelter them from the sun’s rays, and to prevent them being 
dried too rapidly. While outside expose the heads of the plants 
to full light and sunshine, which will result in the formation of 
short sturdy well-ripened growth that will be certain to flower 
well. Do not pinch those plants intended to commence flowering 
about the end of October after the last week in August. To 
have good plants with their heads well furnished by that time it 
is important that an early start be made. 
Beautiful plants can also be grown in 5 and 6-inch pots for 
furnishing rooms or associating with other flowering plants in 
the conservatory or any other structure where the desired 
temperature can be maintained. For this purpose root cuttings 
during May, and transfer them into 3-inch pots when ready. 
The point of the young plants should be removed as soon as 
they are established in the small pots, and this practice must be 
continued until the end of August. By the time the small pots 
are full of roots the plants will be bushy little specimens with 
four or five shoots, and be thoroughly hardened ready for turning 
out of doors by the time they are placed into their largest 
pots. Press the soil firmly into the pots to insure sturdy growth, 
and plunge them in an open sunny position. If these plants are 
well attended to as regards pinching the shoots they will be 
handsome busby plants with six to twelve shoots. 
While growing Heliotropes must never be allowed to suffer 
by an insufficient supply of water at their roots; in fact in no 
stage of development should they be allowed to become dust 
dry. If they are watered care’essly and allowed to get into this 
condition during the season of growth the wood becomes firm, 
and they fail to make satisfactory progress. As soon as the 
plants, whether standards, pyramids, bushes, or small decorative 
plants in 5 and 6-inch pots, have filled their pots with roots 
supply weak stimulants every time they need water. Soot 
water is very beneficial for them, and might with advantage be 
applied alternately with liquid made from cow manure. Perhaps 
the safest and easiest method of feeding is to apply a little arti¬ 
ficial manure to the surface of the soil about once a fortnight. 
The large pots during bright dry weather may be mulched with 
a little short manure. 
The plants must be placed in their winter quarters by the end 
of September, for one cold night or slight frost will ruin them. 
It is not necessary to give them heat when they are first housed; 
on the contrary, a cool light airy position is most suitable for 
them at first. The only care needed while the plants are in a 
cool house is that the temperature does not fall below 50° at 
night, or they will be seriously checked. Very little trouble will 
be needed to maintain this temperature during the following 
month, and very little artificial heat will be needed in order to 
do so. The first plants can be brought into flower without fire 
heat, except on solitary occasions, if the ventilators are kept 
close, and every advantage taken of sunny days. At that period 
of the year if no air is admitted to the plants they will take no 
harm, for the power of the sun is not sufficiently strong to scorch 
or injure them They can be grown and flowered successfully 
without ventilation. Sufficient air for their well being during 
the dreary days of winter finds its way into the house through 
the doors and laps of glass in the roof. I find no variety better 
for winter than White Lady.—W. B. 
THE INSECT ENEMIES OF OUR GARDEN CROPS 
T H E APPLE. 
( Continued from page 276.) 
A thoughtful schoolboy, meditating upon the economy of 
the codlin moth (Oarpocapsa pomonana, fig. 75), might say to 
himself, How wise and kind has Dame Nature proved to be m 
this instance, by thus providing for young folks an abundance of 
windfalls. Not, indeed, that all the fruit brought down by the 
summer gales has suffered from this pest, but no doubt it is the 
cause of the descent of multitudes of Apples and some Pears. 
Often is the fact that the fruit contains a lively tenant scarcely 
noticed by the eater, who helps to reduce in this way the number 
of next season’s insects. Named from the Codlin, it is a species 
really not particular about the sort of Apple, but rather prefers 
that to the Pear, the moth pursuing the same plan with both, by 
placing one egg in each fruit visited, generally upon the eye. 
The emergence from its pupal stage, in which this insect winters, 
occurs during May, early should the spring be mild. As I have 
previously remarked in tliese pages, smouldering fires of weeds 
have been tried with a view to stop the deposition of eggs by 
Fig, 75.—Codlin motli and larva (Carpocapsa pomonana). 
this and other spring moths, but they only give a slight check, 
the smoke cannot be effectively concentrated upon trees. Slightly 
magnified the moth is seen to be a pretty species, pale brown, 
lined in darker tints, and having on the fore wings a patch of 
reddish gold with a lighter border and hind wings shading from 
brown to black. 
When first hatched the caterpillar of the codlin moth is 
white, having a black head ; it gets rather darker as it grows to 
the length of half an inch in five or six weeks. Instinctively it 
avoids touching the core of the fruit for a time, which would 
send it too speedily to the ground, but passing beside the core 
works a gallery to the surface; from the orifice of this it can 
eject what the Germans call its “ frass.” Then it glides back to 
the interior, and before the Apple is ripe its enemy, by biting 
through the centre to eat the pips, occasions its fall and quits 
speedily as a rule. An effect of the attack of tins insect is to 
hasten the development of sugar in the fruit, so that a windfall 
would be found nearer ripeness than a sound one picked from 
the tree. Rather singular is the next move. The caterpillar 
travels off to some tree or paling, seeking a crevice under bark, 
where, having hidden in a web, it becomes a chrysalis. With us 
the insect is now quiescent until the following season. I hav^ no 
satisfactory evidence that there is a second brood in Britain, but 
I believe the appearance of part of the spring flight of moths is 
occasionally delayed, so that there is a succession on the wing. 
Abroad—that is, on the Continent, the change is speedier, the 
caterpillars growing rapidly turn to moths in the summer, and 
these deposit eggs of a second brood on fruit that had previously 
scaped. 
Common sense suggests the prompt removal of windfalls, 
■hether to be eaten or destroyed. It has even been advised, 
tiould the wind have left the trees undisturbed, to shake the 
•ees well where this pest has been abundant. Those who are 
ireful to dress both trunks and branches at the suitable time, 
