424 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
t May 27, 1886. 
preat beauty. The larger specimens, which were 5 feet high, included 
Chelsoni, Reine des Fleurs, Due de Nassau, Stella, A. Borsig, Comtesse de 
Flandres, and Etendard de Flandres. 
Roses, Calceolarias, and Pelargoniums, as already noted, formed 
imposing groups. The Roses from Messrs. Paul & Son, Cheshunt, Mr. C. 
Turner, and Mr. W. Rumsey were very handsome, and to these must be 
added the grand bank of plants, cut bloo ns, shown by Messrs. W. Paul and 
Son, Waltham Cross, but not in competition. The Calceolarias shown by 
Mr. J. James were dwarf handsome plants with large and brightly coloured 
flowers, Mr. C. J. Salter following with good plants bearing bright and 
diversely coloured flowers. Mr. C. Turner was the principal exhibitor of 
Pelargoniums ; Mr. F. J. Hill and Mr. D. Phillips most of the other prizes 
in the open and amateurs’ classes. 
The leading exhibitor of fine-foliage plants and Ferns was Mr. C. Rann, 
who had some of the magnificent specimens that we have frequently had 
occasion to praise. His premier nine specimens included Cycas revoluta, 
Croton interrupts, Dasylirion acrotrichum, Anthurium crystallinum, and 
Bonapartea stricta, which formed a grand bank in the transept near the 
large stage. Mr. J. N. Penfold and Mr. H. James followed with smaller 
examples. Mr. Rann’s Ferns were also good plants. Crotons and 
Dracaenas were numerously represented, but the former were somewhat de¬ 
ficient in colour. Mr. J.' R. Bird and Mr. W. King won the chief prizes 
with vigorous plants. Mr. H. James had collections of Sarracenias and 
Nepenthes, for which first prizes were awarded. Messrs. Hooper <fc Co., 
Covent Garden, were awarded the premier prize for eighteen table plants, 
very neat examples of Palms, Dracaenas, and other plants suitable for the 
purpose. Messrs. Laing & Co. were first with nine Caladiums, large well 
grown plants, such as are seldom seen at exhibitions. 
Messrs. J. Laing & Co., Forest Hill, had a large and handsome group of 
miscellaneous plants, for which the first prize was awarded. It was one of 
the most tasteful and effective they have exhibited for some time, and 
excited the admiration of all visitors who saw it. A number of choice new 
Tuberous Begonias was included, together with many Orchids, Palms, 
Ferns, Caladiums, and innumerable other plants, amongst which were 
several novelties that were certificated. Messrs. Hooper & Co. were placed 
second with a group of Petunias, Gloxinias, Azaleas, and fine-foliage plants. 
For stands of flowers Mr. J. R. Chard, Clapham Common, was first in all 
classes with his usual tasteful arrangements. For collections of cut flowers 
Mr. A. Gibson, gardener to T. F. Burnaby Atkins, Esq., Halstead Place, 
Sevenoaks, and Mr. C. J. Salter were awarded the leading prizes, both 
showing well. 
The miscellaneous non-competing exhibits comprised groups of Tree 
Pseonies from Messrs. J. Laing & Co., Roses from Messrs. W. Paul & Son 
and Mr. W. Rumsey, Pelargoniums from Mr. J. Wiggins, Crotons and Mig¬ 
nonette from J. A. Causton, E3q., West Dulwich ; ccilsctions of Apples and 
hildy plabto from Messrs. J. Cheal & Sons, Crawley, and floral designs 
from Mr. J. R. Chard and Mr. R. End. For all of the preceding extra 
prizes were awarded. Certificates were awarded for the following plants :— 
Pceonia Moutan odorata Marie (J. Laing & Co.).—A large full-flowered 
variety of a delicate pale purple hue, and lactea, white, flower of great size 
and substance. 
Tuberous Begonia Marquis of Stafford (J. Laing & Co.).—A handsome 
double, rich bright scarlet, the flower neatly formed. 
Tuberous Begonia Charmer (J. Laing & Co.).—Single, large beautifully 
formed rounded petals, white centre, with a deep rose margin. 
Caladium Comte de Germing (J. Laing & Co.).—A pretty variety with 
neat leaves, red with light spots, and Raymond Lemonier, red centre with 
pale yellow margin. 
Pelargonium Delight (J. Wiggins).—A show decorative variety, white, 
with a crimson spot in each petal. Very attractive. 
MIGNONETTE IN POTS. 
Large plants are not so commonly grown nowadays as was wont to 
be the case in years not so long past, for the simple and sufficient 
reason that small plants are much more useful. However, there are cases 
in which large plants are of greater service than small ones, and I am 
inclined to think that Mignonette for supplying flowers during early 
spring on till summer is one such case. This plant thrives on repression. 
Every flower spray removed is followed by three or more to take its place, 
so that literally the more flowers cut from a strong healthy plant of 
Mignonette the more flowers there are to cut. 
A large plant well furnished with growth requires some time to lay a 
foundation to work on. Some growers allow a longer period than others, 
and I have no doubt that numbers will have not only sown the seed for next 
year’s plants, but will have these plants in various stages of growth. For 
my part 1 own to a repugnance to nursing hardy flowers under glass 
at an early stage of their existence, though there are of course instances 
in which it is necessary ; but for one case in which a necessity can be 
admitted there are numbers in which no such necessity exists, and I have 
to submit that the case of raising Mignonette in early spring belongs to 
the latter category. Seeds sown in May germinate strongly, and, other 
things being equal, plants from such seed will ultimately overtake 
those from seed sown earlier and grown on under glass for a time. 
The cultural details of Mignonette-growing is simple enough, and it 
will not be necessary to enlarge on them at any length. The seeds are 
sown in thumb-pots, three seeds in each, the plants from which are re¬ 
duced to one. The compost used for the seedling pots is one of equal 
parts loam, Mushroom bed refuse, and sand. The pots are shaded from 
sun until the seedlings are up, and even afterwards until the plants 
have been shifted, the one thing which is to be most guarded against in 
the case of this flower being dryness of root, and in the case of very 
small pots it is safer to err by keeping the sun off them altogether than 
to risk any likelihood of the young plants being subjected to a drying. 
Very good plants can be formed and flowered in 10-inch pots, and the 
i miner treatment of the plants consists in shifting on into large pots 
until the above size is reached, and in pinching out any flowers which 
may appear. The shifts may be from the seed pots in those 4 inches 
across, next into those of 7 inches diameter, and then into the largest 
pot. In shifting none of the drainage should be removed from the ball, 
as so many roots cling thereto as to cause its removal and act prejudi¬ 
cially on the health of the plant. The material we use for potting is 
composed of three parts loam to one of rough Mushroom bed refuse. A 
layer of the latter is also placed over the drainage, and in potting the 
soil is kept rather loose than firm. Occasional surface dressing of a good 
artificial manure is of much benefit throughout the summer months, the 
only time when they must be left off being during the time subsequent 
to repotting, when fresh roots have not had time to push into the fresh 
soil. During the winter months when growth is merely kept going very 
little manure must be employed, but immediately the days begin to 
lengthen the plants may be hastened into bloom, and manure every ten 
days will then be of very great advantage 
There are various methods of training, but I do not think any is better 
than the bush form. Plants trained in this way can be cut on occasion 
very hard indeed without damaging their appearance to any great 
extent, and it has the further advantage that once the foundation of the 
bush has been formed the after training does not call for so much atten¬ 
tion as some other methods. I may refer to one little habit of this plant, 
which in the hands of the less experienced causes a good deal of annoy¬ 
ance throughout the summer months, and that is the difficulty of keeping 
the plants from going altogether to flower. It is a continual pinching of 
flower tips all along, and after the portion covered with flower has been 
removed very little fresh growth extension is left behind. The only 
escape out of this difficulty is to keep up a vigorous root-action, such aB 
under ordinary care would be secured by carrying out the details noted 
above, when there will be less tendency to flower displayed by the 
growths, and strong healthy shoots with ample foliage will follow. As to 
the best variety to grow, my experience would point to selecting a good 
type plant, and saving seed therefrom. At present I am saving seed from, 
a market-grown plant, the stock in the hands of market florists being 
very good. 
It is possible to secure a grand supply of flowers by sowing seeds in a 
heated low frame about the new year. A very rich bed of soil is made up, 
the seed sown thinly. The plants, which appear about the middle of 
January, can be pushed on at a moderate rate, and by the latter part of 
March begin to furnish a supply of flowers which never fails so long as 
they are removed as they become ready, and occasional dressings of 
manure given, nitrate of soda causing a very luxuriant growth.— B. 
ALPINE AURICULAS. 
It is not my intention to speak of the florists’ varieties of Alpine 
Auriculas, as I am not sure they would succeed nnder the treatment I am 
about to recommend ; at any rate they are generally speaking much more 
carefully treated, but many people cannot find the time and convenience 
which the florist requires, and yet they might have a display of flowers 
which would compare very favourably with the others if not minutely 
inspected. 
I was forcibly reminded a few days since when looking round Burghlev 
Gardens, how easy it is to get a good display of these Auriculas if they 
are only planted in a favourable position; two rows of them on a north 
border were worth seeing, and yet they have received no special attention. 
If memory serves me rightly the seed was sown in 1880 ; the seedlings 
were planted when large enough in their present position, which is a north 
border shaded from sun by trees; soil a rich deep sandy loam, and beyond 
keeping them clear of weeds and rubbish they have received no attention 
since that time. They are now huge plants carrying fine trusses of 
flowers, and almost everyone would be glad to have a similar display of 
flowers so varied in colour and sweet-scented. The seed is best sown as 
soon as ripe in a pan, and placed under a handglass where the sun never 
shines, or, failing such a position, in the coolest place obtainable. Shade 
them and keep the soil well watered until the seedlings are up, when they 
should have as much light as possible without bright sunshine, and a little 
air. As soon as they are half an inch high they should be pricked out into 
other pans, and are best if kept in a cold pit through the first winter in 
order to be safe from slugs, otherwise they are quite hardy and may be 
pricked out in a cool shady position if slugs can be guarded against. 
A few of the plants will flower the first spring, but the majority will 
require another season’s growth. They should be planted in their per¬ 
manent quarters when about twelve months old, and afterwards, if kept 
clear of weeds, will take care of themselves for several years. Those at 
Burghley were certainly the finest I have ever seen. It is not in everyone’s 
power to find them a position where the sun never shines upon them, but 
much may be done by shading them when in flower if they are in a warm 
position, and watering and mulching in summer. Several years since I 
saw some very good plants grown in that way in a dry and warm posi¬ 
tion. They like a deep rich soil, and will repay for any extra attention.— 
W. H. Divers, Ketton Hall. 
DENDROBIUM FIMBRIATUM OCULATDM (PAXTONI.) 
One of the most handsome of the racemose Dendrobiums is D. fimbriatum 
oculatum, or D. Paxtoni as it is very generally called in gardens, and 
with good treatment it developes into a particularly fine specimen, the 
long pendulous racemes drooping gracefully round the plant. The colour 
of the flowers is a rich golden orange with a crimson maroon blotch, the 
