428 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ May 27, 1886. 
boiler, the heated water expanding and passing at once through the flow 
pipe into the house. The heat is then forced downwards into the soot 
box, rising upwards again through the water, the fumes of combustion 
passing to the open air through a pipe at the top. By this arrangement 
it is claimed that the greatest possible amount of heat is absorbed by 
the water, the proof being that the “ outlet pipe for the fumes being 
cooler than the hot-water pipes” in the house. The plan and section 
fig. 79 show the principle of the boiler, tho arrows indicating the vertical 
transit of the heat. Fig. 80 shows the apparatus with pipes attached from 
both sides, but, as the circular indicates, they can be led from either 
side according to the arrangement of the structure to be heated. The 
necessities of an amateur led to its production, who desired to heat 
his greenhouse inexpensively with a minimum of trouble to himself, 
while producing a sweet atmosphere for his plants. A hot-water 
heated propagator is also illustrated in the circular in question, and is 
well adapted for raising plants from seed or cuttings at any season of 
the year. 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Old Tomato Plants.— Where plants have been growing and fruiting 
for some time in 8£ or 10-inch pots or boxes, they may now be showing 
signs of having done all they can in their confined rooting space, as well 
as having filled all the room available for the top growths ; but we should 
not advise such plants to be thrown away as being of no further use, 
because if they are planted against a wall in the open air they will soon 
recommence growing and fruiting, and they will mature quantities of 
fruits long before any can be gathered from young plants in the open. 
The old plants will not look so well as the young ones, but early fruit, and 
plenty of it, is the object to aim at, and the old plants are the best for 
this. They should have rich soil, and the shoots must be tied up carefully. 
Under glass the shoots of these may have been constantly restricted, but 
they must be allowed to make fresh growth in the open, and as soon as a 
quantity of fruit has been formed, crowding of the wood must again be 
avoided. 
Thinning Young Vegetables.— The recent excellent rains have 
caused young vegetables to grow very rapidly, and we must again call 
attention to timely thinning. Just now is a busy time in all departments, 
and some may be inclined to think that so long as the seed is sown and 
the plants growing, progress is being made, but if the plants are allowed 
to be crowded in the beds or rows they will receive a check from which 
they will not readily recover, and it may end in inferior produce being 
grown where only good first-class crops ought to have been found. 
Onions. —We never remember so few of the autumn-sown Onions 
throwing up flower stems as this spring. Out of some thousands growing 
rapidly at the present time there are not a dozen showing flower. This 
satisfactory state of matters is, we hear, very general, and the autumn- 
sown Onion crop will he a very remunerative one this spring and summer. 
Some of the White Elephant type, which are very early, are now ready 
for use, as they have formed bulbs several inches in circumference. We 
have this week finished our summer crop of last year. James’ Keeping 
remained longest in sound condition, but like some others, they at last 
began growing, and had to be thrown away. Spring-sown Onions are 
late, but the seed has germinated freely and the plants are healthy. It is 
now the maggot is apt to appear, and every effort should be made to 
suppress it. It is a bad plan to allow it to destroy some of the plants 
and then try to check or exterminate it. Prevention is much better than 
cure in this case, and whether its presence is suspected or not, the plants 
should be dusted freely with soot once a week until the bulbs are well 
advanced in growth. If this can be done during rain so much the better. 
A little salt or guano may be mixed with the soot with advantage. Some 
growers thin their Onions ; others do not. When we desire to have large 
bulbs for show or any special purpose, we thin them to 6 inches or so 
apart, but the general crop for kitchen use is seldom thinned, and although 
the bulbs may develope until they are almost growing on the top of each 
other, they still become of a very useful size, and for a heavy crop there 
is no better way of growing them than this. 
Endive. —While Lettuces are in demand for as long a season as 
possible Endive is not so much valued at all times, and a supply of it 
from August to September until the new year, or thereabouts, is generally 
as much as anyone desires. It is a very acceptable addition to salads. 
The Green Curled variety, or forms of this, are most ornamental, but 
the Broad-leaved Batavian is the hardiest, and should be grown late. 
A small patch of seed will produce a great many plants, and if sown at 
once the plants will be ready for transplanting by the end of June, and 
will become useful in August. At that time, however, it is not long in 
running to seed, and only small batches should be sown or grown at a 
time. If a little seed is sown at intervals of a fortnight or three weeks a 
constant succession will be easily kept up. 
Peas.—A merican Wonder in the open is now in pod, and although 
there is none of the gather-and-come-again character about it, it will soon 
furnish a good dish. Where taller varieties are in bloom, and it is desired 
to have them in as soon as possible, take the points out of each of the 
main growths. This will cause the pods to fill rapidly. Earth up and 
stake all advancing crops, water freely in dry weather. Late varieties 
should now be sown in quantity. Give them a deep rich soil and sunny 
position. Some approve of sowing early varieties for late use; we do not, 
and adhere to such good sorts as Laxton’s Omega, Sutton’s Latest of All, 
and Ne Plus Ultra. Peas generally promise to be good. 
Chicory. —This is no use in summer, but when large roots are 
produced before autumn, and these are lifted and forced in a dark place, 
a most delicious salad matter is readily produced in quantity. To have 
it in good condition the seed should be sown now. We always sow a few 
rows in any odd corner of the garden where the soil is deep and rich, and 
it never fails. The seed should be sown in rows 15 inches apart, and 
2 inches below the surface. When the young plants come up they 
should be thinned to 6 inches apart, and summer culture consists in 
keeping weeds down by the use of the Dutch hoe. 
Parsley. —There is no more important crop in the kitchen garden 
than this. Its absence creates inconvenience everywhere. A supply 
must be forthcoming. Old roots have been throwing up plenty of leaves 
lately, but the flower stems are also appearing, and as these roots must 
keep the cook going until the spring-sown plants are ready, the flower 
stems should be cut down as fast as they appear. Seedlings are now 
about 2 inches high, and this is an excellent time to transplant quantities 
of them. Patches should be planted all over the garden, as if one lot 
fails another may succeed, and if a row is put in along the edge of a walk, 
or the bottom of a wall, or at the end of any crop where there is not suffi¬ 
cient space to plant anything bulky, it is surprising the excellent quanti¬ 
ties of Parsley that will be produced. This crop will bear and be bene¬ 
fited by the same treatment as the Onions in dusting soot and other 
fertilisers over the plants in damp weather. 
Ridge Cucumbers and Vegetable Marrows.— These are now 
beginning to grow freely in the open. Do not protect them any longer 
than is necessary, and begin training the shoots out from the first. 
Crowding must be avoided, and pegging down or tying must be practised 
early. Where the growths are running down the sides of mounds, a few 
branches should be put round the bottom of the heap, when the growths 
will scramble over them, and the fruit will form freely and remain clean 
amongst the branches. 
Planting out Cauliflowers.— Brussels Sprouts, Cabbage, and all 
plants of this class should be inserted as the plants become ready and 
the ground vacant. Those transplanted during wet weather never fail 
to do well. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines. —Early House .—Trees of the very early 
varieties, such as Alexander, Waterloo, and Early Beatrice, will now or 
soon be cleared of the fruit. The shoots on which the fruit has been 
borne, and not being required for the extension of the trees, should be cut 
away to admit of the full exposure of the foliage to light and air. 
Syringe forcibly to cleanse the foliage of red spider, and if this and scale 
continue troublesome the prompt application of an insecticide will be 
necessary to eradicate those pests. It is highly important that the foliage 
be kept healthy, and to prevent over-maturity or premature ripening of 
the wood it is necessary to keep the house as cool as possible by ventilating 
to the fullest extent after the fruit is gathered. The borders, floors, &c., 
should be kept moist, and in showery weather remove the roof lights. 
Keep gross laterals stopped, but avoid giving a check by a great reduction 
of foliage at one time, as this has a tendency to hasten the ripening of 
the growth, and when this is the case the trees will be swelling the buds 
through over-development when they should be going to rest. Trees of 
Hale’s Early, A Bee, Early York, and Early Grosse Mignonne, with Royal 
George in the same house or in a house to themselves, which is much the 
best, will be ripening their fruit, and must not be syringed, though if the 
trees become infested with red spider a thorough syringing may be given 
when there is a prospect of a fine day, as with the water hanging any 
length of time the skin is liable to crack in fruits that are partly ripe, 
whilst those that are nearly ripe will be much deteriorated in quality. 
The trees must not be allowed to suffer by want of water at the roots, 
but any excess of moisture at this stage has a tendency to cause splitting 
at the stone. 
Houses Started Early in January .—The fruit will now be well 
advanced for ripening. The leaves having been turned aside, and the 
fruit raised on laths placed across the wires of the trellis with its apex to 
the light, will be coloured well, though the absence of sun has not allowed 
the attainment of high colour this season, and the ripening is later than 
usual. If the weather continues cold and wet gentle fire heat will still be 
necessary to secure a circulation of air constantly, the temperature being 
maintained at 60° to 65° artificially at night and 5° to 10° rise by day. 
Cease syringing so soon as the fruit begins to be soft, and take care to 
have the foliage free from red spider before the syringing ceases, or the 
pest will increase so rapidly whilst the fruit is ripening as to seriously 
jeopardise future prospects. See that there is no deficiency of moisture 
in the borders, and, if necessary, give a thorough supply of water, 
mulching with some light material such as spent Mushroom-bed manure 
or partially decayed stable litter. 
Succession Houses .—Do not hurry the trees during the stoning, but 
allow time for this exhausting process. Allow a rather free rtension of 
WORK FQilTHE WEEK.. 
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