438 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 3, 1886. 
to, inasmuch as all contributions of mine to the gardening papers 
respecting my own productions or those of others have been strictly 
accurate and free from exaggeration. Neither have I been reproved by 
any head gardener I served under for any single line I have written. 
Your correspondent is evidently chagrined at some reporting and 
perhaps jealous of the approval of any work except his own. The cir¬ 
cumstances, we are told, occurred many years ago, yet “ Head Gardener ” 
has not opened the sluices of his displeasure until now. It is more than 
twenty years since I was foreman in a lord’s garden, and I fear that any¬ 
thing I wrote then, good or bad, would not be calculated to make such 
an impression as to be remembered for such a length of time. Gardeners 
at the age of twenty-two or twenty-three rarely figure as “graphic” and 
impressive writers in the Press, and I should only be too delighted to 
be one of the few “W. P. R.’s ” of “Head Gardener’s” stamp, hut 
must be content to remain—Y our W. P. R. 
CHRYSANTHEMUMS AND THEIR CULTURE. 
( Continued from page 375.) 
SUMMER TREATMENT. 
Tiie most important point in the summer treatment of Chrys¬ 
anthemums is regularity in attending to their various wants, strict 
and prompt attention to the smallest matters at the proper time 
being necessary to ultimate success. When the plants are finally 
potted and placed in their summer quarters, great care should be 
exercised in supplying them with water. A good soaking having 
been given to them after potting, no more water will be required 
for several days, except the weather be hot and dry. Applying 
water to the roots when not necessary is a mistake, as this tends to 
make the soil sodden ; therefore wait until the soil is nearly dry 
before giving more at this stage. A gentle syringing after a hot 
dry day is of great advantage to the plants. The roots run more 
freely into the new soil when it is moderately moist than when 
heavily charged with moisture. As the roots progress and the sun 
gains power the plants require water twice each day, and a few of 
them possibly three times. The soil in each pot should be carefully 
examined before water is given ; rapping the pots with the knuckles 
is the best guide, and if the same person attends to them always he 
soon becomes accustomed to the sound of the pots, and at once 
knows when to give water with benefit. It is wise in very hot 
weather to examine the plants three times each day, say early in 
the morning, again about midday, and once more in the evening. 
Where rain water can be had it should be used in preference to any 
other ; but where it comes direct from wells or water companies’ 
pipes in a cold state, as is often the case near towns, means should 
be taken to expose it to the sun and air some time previous to using. 
Washing soda, used at the rate of | lb. to 3G gallons of water, pre¬ 
viously dissolving the soda in hot water, softens it if allowed to 
stand twenty-four hours, and also acts as a stimulant to the plants. 
The notes on watering apply to the use of clear water only. The 
application of stimulants will be dealt with in a special article. 
Syringing the plants is a great promoter of healthy growth, and a 
preventive of insects. Syringing is best done in the afternoon or 
evening of a hot day. When the plants are numerous and placed in 
rows the garden engine is the best instrument to use, and the water 
.should be directed to the foliage with some force by going between 
two rows of plants and returning in the opposite direction ; the 
plants then receive a thorough washing which is far better than 
a light sprinkling with the hand syringe. In cold sunless weather 
the plants should not be syringed or mildew may be encou¬ 
raged, and it ought as far as possible to be averted. Incessant 
attention should be paid to tying the shoots to their supports as fast 
as they grow ; neglect in this may cause much disappointment at a 
later period, the points of the shoots being so succulent are very 
liable to be broken by wind, heavy rains, and other causes, thus the 
loss of these branches reduces the chances of success to a minimum. 
When the branches which are intended to produce the flowers are 
selected remove all the other side growths promptly as they appear. 
Allowing superfluous branches to remain weakens those that are 
intended to produce flowers, therefore pay strict attention to the 
removal of excessive growths ; it is much easier to take them off 
when young than when they get hard. 
INSECTS AND DISEASES—REMEDIES. 
Chrysanthemums are not troubled with many forms of disease 
or insect pests, like some other kinds of plants, owing probably to 
their hardiness ; still they are liable to be attacked by a few 
enemies, but if these are attacked in turn as soon as detected, and 
treated as I will endeavour to explain, they will not cause serious 
trouble by their presence. Green fly is one of the most persistent 
and troublesome of insects ; it attacks the points of the shoots in 
all stages of their growth, more particularly when the plants are 
young, often before the cuttings are taken from the old plants, and 
if a remedy is not applied the young leaves and points of the shoots 
are soon crippled. The best way to clean the cuttings from green 
fly before inserting them is to rub with the thumb and finger the 
parts affected in water. This does no harm to the cutting, and the 
enemy is washed away. Gisliurst compound used according to the 
instructions printed on the boxes is sometimes used, but is liable to 
injure the tender leaves. Fumigating the house with tobacco paper 
is of course quite certain to kill the fly, but it is not always worth 
while to fumigate a house, as perhaps a few of the plants only are 
infested. Tobacco powder sprinkled on the points of the shoots is 
the best way to remove green fly when the plants are established in 
pots, a good syringing afterwards cleanses them from both fly and 
powder. Black fly is sometimes troublesome to the young leaves 
on the points of the branches ; it may be destroyed by dipping the 
parts affected in a weak solution of tobacco water, using a saucer to 
contain the liquid. Care should be exercised in bending the young 
branches, as they are very liable to snap off if bent too quickly in 
covering the leaves with the liquid. A leaf-mining maggot, similar 
to that attacking Celery, is often very troublesome in the spring 
and during June, when the plants are from 3 feet to 4 feet high. 
The maggot can easily be seen under the skin of the leaves, where 
it secretes itself and quickly destroys the tissues, giving a serious 
check to the plant. Hand-picking persistently followed is the only 
efficacious remedy I know ; either squeeze the part of the leaf 
where the maggot is seen, or pick them out with the point of a 
knife ; neglect this and the plants may be spoiled. Another enemy, 
like the Rose maggot, often causes much anxiety and loss by 
destroying the points of the shoots in August and September, when 
the flower buds are forming. Incessantly watching for and 
destroying the grubs by hand is the only means to remove these 
depredators. Earwigs are also troublesome when the flower buds 
are formed. Their favourite hiding place is among the young 
unfolded leaves. The tender flower buds are, however, their 
favourite morsels, and these they spoil by eating away the centre ; 
but they cause for more trouble when the blooms are expanding, as 
they eat the florets, thus rendering the flowers shapeless. Search 
for them after dark with the aid of a lantern, and destroy them 
then, as they are not easily seen during the daytime. 
Mildew is the worst pest the Chrysanthemum grower has to 
contend with. It makes its appearance in small spots on the leaves 
at any stage of growth, more particularly in damp sunless weather 
towards the end of summer. Brown sulphur, owing to its colour, 
being the least objectionable sprinkled on the affected leaves is the 
best remedy. This parasite attacks the under parts of the leaves, 
to which it is almost impossible to apply sulphur in a dry state ; 
recourse must then be had to a liquid application. The plants are 
often badly infested with mildew when they are ready for housing. 
They should not be removed into their final position until the pest 
is eradicated. This is best done by laying the plants on their sides 
and syringing them, thoroughly wetting every part with the 
following mixture :—Place 2 lbs. of sulphur and 2 lbs. lime, which 
has not been slaked, in ten quarts of water, and boil for twenty 
minutes. For syringing on the plants use two wineglassfuls of the 
mixture to four gallons of clean cold water. A syringe with the 
jet affixed, causing a single stream, is the best method of applying 
the liquid ; by placing the forefinger over the orifice the 
liquid can be directed upwards and spread over the plant where 
required. If a slight discoloration of the leaves follows from the 
sediment of the mixture this will not be injurious, but it can be 
removed if desired by a vigorous washing with clean water. 
The only disease which affects Chrysanthemums to my know¬ 
ledge is the following :—In the months of August and September 
after three or four successive rainy days the leaves from the soil to 
about three parts of the way up the plants turn black. I do not 
know any name for this form of disease, but I have noted that 
where soil of a retentive character is used the disease is the 
strongest, thus suggesting that sluggish or defective root-action may 
be a cause of the evil ; therefore the only preventive I can suggest 
is to prepare the soil for the final potting in the manner previously 
described, thus reducing the chances of the disease appearing to a 
minimum. If no other course is left to the cultivator but to use 
a retentive soil it should not be rammed very firmly in potting, 
or the water will not pass away so quickly as is desirable. 
I have seen plants denuded of three parts of their foliage in a few 
days by this disease, and receiving a serious check in consequence. 
SPORTS AND FIXING THEM. 
Chrysanthemums have a tendency to sport into various colours. 
Many of these when “ fixed ” are improvements upon older kinds. 
Some persons speak disparagingly of this method of obtaining new 
varieties, but I fail to see why they are not as good as those 
produced from seed. Many new forms of the Incurved section are 
procured in this manner, notably Lord Alcester. This I regard as 
one of the best varieties in existence, if not quite the best of the 
Incurved family, as it will produce more first-class blooms on a 
