446 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 8, 1886. 
Orchids. The useful Oncidiutn concolor is freely employed with excellent 
results, and the new Oncidiutn Jonesianum is bearing its handsomely 
spotted flowers, Oncidium macranthum, and 0. hastiferum with clear 
yellow petals and brown sepals are also notable. With these must he 
mentioned the extraordinary Butterfly Orchids, Oncidiums Papilio and 
Rrameri with their golden and reddish brown flowers floating in the air 
on slender stems, almost startling in their resemblance to the gaily 
coloured butterflies of tropical regions. These mimicking Orchids take 
the popular attention far more than the most brilliantly coloured species, 
and they add greatly to the interest of a collection. Anguloa Clowesi, 
Sobralia macrantba, Thunias, Aerides, Phaltenopses, Dendrobiums, such 
as thyrsiflorum, Jamesianum, and infundibulum, with innumerable others, 
unite to form an exhibition which is worthy of a visit from all admirers 
of Orchids, or who appreciate a tasteful floral effect. 
ROSE SHOW FIXTURES, 1886. 
For the guidance of those Societies which have not as yet fixed the 
dates of their exhibitions we publish the following list of Rose Shows 
arranged to be held during the coming season. 
Bagshot and Windlesham Rose Society, at Bagshot, Tuesday, 
June 29th. 
Diss Horticultural Society, at Diss, and the Canterbury and Kent Rose 
Society, at Canterbury, Tuesday, June 29th. 
Farniogham Rose and Horticultural Society, at Farningham, Wednes¬ 
day, June 30th. 
Croydon Horticultural Society, at Croydon, Wednesday, June 30th. 
Reigate Rose Association, at Reigate, Thursday, July 1st. 
Tunbridge Wells Horticultural Society, at Tunbridge Wells, Friday, 
July 2nd. 
Brockham Rose Association, at Dorking, Saturday, July 3rd. 
Eltham Rose and Horticultural Society, at Eltham, Saturday, July 3rd. 
Crystal Palace Rose Show, Saturday, July 3rd. 
National Rose Society, at South Kensington, Tuesday, July 6th. 
Cardiff Rose Society, at Cardiff, Wednesday, July 7th. 
Sutton Amateur Rose Society, at Sutton, Wednesday, July 7th. 
Oxford Rose Show, Wednesday, July 7th. 
Ealing, Acton, and Hanwell Horticultural Society, at Ealing, Wed¬ 
nesday, July 7th. 
Bath Floral Fete and Band Committee, at Bath, Thursday, July 8th. 
Ipswich and East of England Horticultural Society, at Ipswich, 
Thursday, July 8th. 
Hitchin Rose Society, at Hitchin, Thursday, July 8th. 
Hereford and West of England Rose Society, at Hereford, Friday, 
July 9 th. 
Maidstone Rose Club, at Maidstone, Friday, July 9th. 
Cray Valley and Sidcup Horticultural Society, at Frognal, Saturday, 
July 10th. 
Wirral Rose Society, at Birkenhead. Saturday, July 10th. 
PROPAGATION OF TUBEROUS BEGONIAS. 
The Tuberous-rooted Begonias have, during the past few years, been 
making steady progress in the flower garden, and they are admitted by all 
who have attempted their culture in open beds during the summer and 
autumn months to be unique. It is a step, too, 1 feel sure, in the right 
direction, as by its adoption we see less of the vivid glare which has too 
often occupied the greater part of many summer beds. The formality of 
the design, too, is somewhat avoided, for happily we cannot pinch and 
pick, in other words, muilate the Begonia so as to form it into any set 
design, so that it must be allowed to grow naturally to see it in perfection. 
When thus seen they may be said to constitute one of the most enjoyable 
floral arrangements which any garden can contain. The Begonia delights 
in a free, light, sandy, and fertile loam, and commences flowering almost 
from the first joint, continuing successively to produce its varied coloured 
blossoms till checked by autumn frost. Those who desire an attractive 
bed should never select the huge-flowered varieties, which are better for 
pots in the conservatory, or for exhibition. 
The simp’est means of obtaining a stock of Begonias is by seed, and 
which is easily managed, provided the following simple rules be adhered 
to. Firstly, the soil should be in good order when the seed is sown, or it 
may be opened on the bench or the floor of a dry shed, sufficiently dry in 
fact to pass through a sieve of three-eighths of an inch mesh without 
clogging, then three parts fill thoroughly drained pots, making the surface 
even and very firm, sprinkle a little white sand on this to mark where 
the seed falls, and thus avoid sowing too thickly, in which case many 
decay. Secondly, after sowing the seed scatter very lightly from a wire 
gauze sieve (or if this be not at hand the fine rose of a watering can I 
have found an excellent substitute) a little dry silver sand, so as to barely 
cover the seeds, after which plunge away in slight bottom heat—say 
about 60°, and cover the pots with a piece of glass. If the soil is in the 
right state they will not require watering for three or four days, keeping 
the pots at this stage quite dark, as by so doing watering is dispensed 
with, for after all the watering pot is the greatest enemy in the raising of 
Begonias from seed. The seed should be barely covered, and in fact 
some growers do not cover it at all. I have frequently adopted the same 
practice with equal success ; but knowing the great losses attending the 
injudicious use of the watering pot, I nearly always cover it as above 
described, and thus avoid the seed being displaced when vegetating, 
which is sure to end fatally. Watering, I may observe, should never be 
done till the seedlings have their second leaf. What appears to suit the 
seed best, and which falls very lightly on them, is the spray from the 
syringe given at a distance, and settling on the seed pots much as a thick 
misty rain. Thirdly, when the seedlings are up always avoid incessant 
sprinklings over the foliage. This is highly detrimental and often fatal 
to them, consequent upon their extreme succulent nature at this time. 
When they have reached the second and third leaf a lighter position near 
the glass will suit them, where they will soon make headway and be 
ready for planting in small nursery trial beds, having been thoroughly 
hardened previously, and of course pricked off into boxes or pans in the 
usual way of small seedlings. 
The other means of increasing this section of Begonias to which I 
shall refer is by cuttings. It is by this means that the best forms of the 
singles and all the doubles are propagated, and which can only be per¬ 
formed where good strong tubers exist, capable of throwing up several 
strong growths. In adopting this method, and to avoid overcrowding 
and the consequent damping off, the cuttings should be inserted singly in 
small thumb-pots, using rough fibrous leaf soil and plenty of sharp grit, 
passing all through a half-inch sieve, well rubbing the fibre through. 
The soil ready, the next thing is the cuttings, and this is how I get 
them:—Taking half a dozen large 60-pots and as many labels, I 
select the strongest and forwardest plants, having cuttings 3 or 
4 inches long. These I detach with a sharp knife close to the 
tuber, securing, where possible, a slice of bark and a heel as well to the 
cutting. Such cuttings as these are almost sure to form roots readily with 
judicious management. Those, however, that cannot be obtained in this 
way should be taken off as close to the tuber as possible, and where the 
naturally succulent growth is somewhat firmer. These latter, though by 
no means difficult to root, require the greater care. Having filled half 
a dozen pots, take them to the potting shed, potting them singly, and 
labelling each one, defining singles from doubles by placing the first letter 
of each word on the label as the case may require. When all are complete, 
plunge them into bottom heat of 60° or 65°, but on no account water them 
for toe first two or three days. It is the orthodox practice to water cuttings 
newly inserted at once, and generally speaking, with softwooded plants it 
is the right way to prevent flagging. The Begonia, however, is extremely 
succulent, the stems being capable of sustaining themselves for days, even 
in a cutting state, without water, and even longer, provided they are 
plunged in damp cocoa fibre and kept comparatively close. By the third 
or fourth day the cuttings will have begun to heal, in other words, be in the 
first stage of forming a callus. When this stage is passed the danger is 
considerably lessened, and presuming the soil is dry on account of the 
heat in the propagating house, a good watering may be given, leaving 
the lights off for three or four hours till the foliage is quite dry. This 
watering under the circumstances I have described should last them five 
or six days, according to the weather at the time, after which all that are 
dry are best taken out singly and watered, for it is not an easy matter to 
direct a volume of water to any particular pot in the propagating case 
without wetting others. By taking them singly as described, each may 
be watered effectually without damping a leaf, a thing to be desired when 
propagating these Begonias from cuttings. After the tenth day air may 
be admitted by degrees, according to the progress of the cuttings, thus 
keeping them short and of sturdy growth, as, by being essentially green¬ 
house plants, they soon become drawn and weakly if kept too warm or 
too close. In three weeks or a m >ntli the majority will be well rooted, 
and having been exposed in the house for a few days may be repotted 
into small 48-sized pots. These will carry them through the first season, 
one of the chief points being to secure a sound tuber by the autumn.— 
J. H. E. 
HORTICULTURAL SHOWS. 
The following are the dates of the principal Shows to be held during 
June and July this year. The great event of the season will no doubt be 
the provincial Show of the Royal Horticultural Society at Liverpool at 
the end of June. 
JUNE. 
8th.—Royal Horticultural Society Committee meetings; Orchid Exhibi¬ 
tion, 
9th.—Royal Botanic Society second Summer Show. 
11th to 18th.—Manchester National Horticultural Exhibition, Old Traf- 
ford. 
17th and 18th.—Brentwood. 
22nd.—Royal Horticultural Society Committee meetings and Pelar¬ 
gonium Show. 
23 d and 25th.—York Floral Fete. 
29th to July 5th.—Royal Horticultural Society Provincial Show at 
Liverpool. 
30th.—Croydon Horticultural Show. 
30th.—Royal Botanic Society’s Evening Fete. 
CULTIVATED VIOLETS. 
( Continued from page 421.) 
Violets have one characteristic in common—viz., they need similar 
situation, soil, and treatment during the preparatory or growing season; 
albeit, the arrangement of the plants in the summer must accord with 
the purpose they are intended tor in the winter. If to flower where 
grown the plants must be dispo-ed in such manner as will best admit of 
their being covered with frames, accelerate the gathering of the flowers, 
and facilitate affording protection in severe weather. Though a native 
of this and other countrie' where the winters are severe, the fact of culture, 
