June 3, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
451 
observed in making the soil firm, and nothing short of this would agree 
with them. Fruit borders are always best when very tirm, and the most 
roots are to be found in those which are submitted to a great deal of 
treading during the year, and if a tree is in bad health with the roots in 
a loose soil nothing will improve it quicker than treading the soil down 
as firm as it is possible to make it. 
Kitchen garden crops are also benefited by being grown in firm soil. 
Onions, when grown in loose material, never bulb well but form thick 
necks, and they come best when the soil is rolled immediately after sow¬ 
ing, and they are also benefited by treading them on each side of the rows 
during the early stages of their growth. Celery will seldom “bolt” or 
fail ii in very firm soil. It i,s an excellent remedy for clubbing in Cab¬ 
bage, Cauliflower, and plants of this sort ; and a fine soil is also one of 
the best means we know to keep o£E the grubs from the roots. We are as 
particular in having the soil trodden down firm amongst these, and also 
amongst Carrots, Parsnips, &c., as we are to hoe or weed them, and of all 
our ways of inducing plants to succeed none assist so well as firm soil 
everywhere. 
Those who have not given this matter practical attention may be in¬ 
clined to think that the looser the soil is for Carrots, Parsnips, Beetroot, 
Salsafy, and other deep-rooting plants, the longer and finer will the roots 
become ; but this is a mistake, as in such soil they only fork and throw 
out side roots, whereas in firm soil they go straight down, are quite 
fibreless, and turn out beautiful and clean.—A Kitchen Gabdener. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
The late spring kept back growth so much that we were much later 
than usual in beginning the early summer pruning. This pruning is 
done principally by nipping off the young growth with the finger and 
thumb, for which reason it is usually termed pinching, the leading shoot 
of each stem or branch being pinched to about 9 inches or a foot, and the 
side or lateral growth to three or four leaves from the base. No pinchiDg 
should be done till the fruit is set and is swelling freely. If necessary 
there should also be some thinning of new growth as the pinching is done 
if the spurs are at all crowded, in order that light and air may act freely 
upon every part of the tree. A moderate crop of really fine fruits is 
infinitely preferable to a crowded one of small fruits, and that should be 
our aim in all we do in fruit culture. When the fruit is swelling the 
borders or soil in which the roots are established should have frequent 
soakings of sewage or other liquid manure. Preference is given to sewage 
because of the daily supply to be had from every household, whence it 
comes to hand in a perfectly safe condition for immediate use. This 
cannot be always said of manure prepared by mixing guano with water, 
for we have known the fruit spoiled and the trees half killed by an over¬ 
dose of it. Do not forget to use sewage freely now among Strawberries, 
Raspberries, and all bush fruit, to which it is hardly possible to give too 
much of this valuable cheap fertiliser till the fruit begins to ripen. In 
doing this we should understand that we are working for future seasons 
as well as for the present one, the regular use of sewage during the season 
of active or rather lively growth tending to promote robust health, and 
thus to secure a full development of the crop of fruit, of foliage, branch, 
and bud. How can we rest content with anything short of this in fruit 
culture ? Aim high, say we, and achieve much ; also let every season 
mark some advance in knowledge, that golden knowledge only to be 
gained by experience and some improvement in practice. Pinching may 
be done at once to the young growth of Red and White Currants ; see also 
that the leading shoots of Currants trained to walls or fences are made 
fast at once, or the growth may be broken off by the first storm of wind 
and rain. Pears, Plums, some Cherries, and Apricots should have full 
attention to all necessary pinchin i and training forthwith. Nip off the 
tips of leading shoots now, and at m ; d ummer you will have another good 
break both of leading and lateral giowtb. Disbud Peaches and Necta¬ 
rines, keeping only enough stout lateral growth for the fruit crop of next 
year. This is a point of culture r:quiriag sound judgment, the general 
tendency being to tie in too much wood, and crowded growth is generally 
undersized, and the foliage is liable to become infested by red spider in 
July and August. If your young trees are very robust encourage rather 
than check the growth. The space covered by such young trees in a 
couple of years is absolutely marvellous. The leading branches will 
attain a length of 6 or 8 feet in a single season. The lateral growth, too, 
will be so rampant that it will often have sub-laterals of not mere abortive 
growth, but really fine stout fruiting wood well set with triple buds. If 
you would have fine fruit you must have robust growth. How can you 
expect large fruit upon the straw-like wood so common to half-fed badly 
managed Peach trees ? Keep the soil about the roots well stored with 
fertility. Keep the new growth sufficiently far apart to admit light and 
air among it freely. Keep the foliage clean by frequently bringing a 
keen eye, a willing hand, a stout arm, a good syringe, and plenty of clean 
water to bear upon it, especially upon the under side of the leaves. Above 
all things do not overcrop. Such a thing as crowded fruit in Peach and 
Nectarine culture ought never to be seen ; a fruit to each square foot of 
wall space would afford us a large number of fruit, and such fruit too ! 
The sight of a full-grown tree covering, say, 300 square feet of wall with 
about that number of Peaches upon it, each fruit closely approaching the 
size of a cricket ball, is not like the Waltham Roses, “ a thing to see once 
and dream of for ever,” but a thing to try and copy in our own practice, 
a standard of excellence to follow, a worthy object of ambition, and 
remember it is a possibility that falls within the scope of most gardeners. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. — 'Early House .—When the Vines are cleared of the fruit give 
the inside borders a thorough supply of tepid liquid manure. This will 
help to plump the buds and encourage root-action so essential to activity 
of the lati-rals—the best preventive of premature ripening of the 
foliage. Keep the ventilators open constantly, even in cold weather a 
circulation should be insured. Syringe thoroughly to cleanse the foliage 
of dirt and insects, especially red spider, and repeat occasionally or as 
found necessary to keep the old or main leaves healthy. Fresh laterals 
will soon be produced, and cultivators should maintain an even growth 
all over the Vines, pinching the gross growths and encouraging the weak, 
keeping them clear of the principal leaves which nourish the buds at 
their base. The mulching or covering having been removed from the 
outside border, with just sufficient of the lighter part left to protect the 
roots, a good watering with liquid manure may be given, but the recent 
rains having been general this will only be needed where none has fallen. 
Avoid heavy mulchings, and nothing is better than a couple of inches 
depth of fresh stable manure. 
Second Early Houses .—Vines started early in the year will have the 
Grapos well advanced in ripening. Maintain a circulation of warm, 
rather dry air constantly, increasing the ventilation early. Keep the 
floors, &c., well damped on hot days with a view to check excessive 
evaporation, allowing the temperature to fall to 60° or 65° at night, with 
sufficient ventilation and warmth in the pipes to prevent moisture con¬ 
densing. If there is likely to be auy want of finish allow the Vines time 
by giving as long a rest at night as possible. If there is any doubt about 
the roots lacking moisture examine the border, and, if found necessary, 
give a thorough soaking of water in the morning of a fine day, and when 
soaked in mulch with a little light material. This will probably be sufficient 
to keep the border moist until the Grapes are cut; if not, it must be 
repeated. Moderate moisture will be essential to the health of the foliage, 
hence damping the floors and stages must be resorted to occasionally, there 
not being any fear of its damaging ripe Grapes at this season only it be 
accompanied with air, besides the moisture will assist in keeping the 
Grapes ; and to prevent colour being taken out of Hamburghs a double 
thickness of pilchard nets should be drawn over the roof lights. Allow a 
moderate extension of the laterals to encourage root-action, but keep 
gross laterals well in hand so as to cause an equal distribution of the 
sap. When ripe a minimum temperature of 60° will be sufficient. 
Midseason Houses .—Vines in these will be in various stages according 
to the time of starting. Those that have stoned will be swelling the 
berries fast, and the borders should have a soaking of tepid water through 
a good surface mulching, or if the Vines are not very vigorous and carry¬ 
ing heavy crops liquid manure will be necessary. The drainage being 
good, the watering, whether with water or liquid manure, will need to be 
continued at fortnightly intervals until the Grapes are somewhat advanced 
in colouring, when it must be stopped, yet the border must not be allowed 
to becomeso dry as to affect the foliage injuriously. Have a little 
ventilation constantly at the apex, and ventilate freely in the early part 
of the day, closing early with sun heat and a genial condition of the 
atmosphere. Fire heat will only be necessary to secure 60° to 65° at 
night, and 70° to 75° by day, keeping through the day at 80° to 85°, and 
closing sufficiently early to run up to 90° or 95°. This will insure the 
berries swelling to a good size, and with a free circulation of air a 
good finish may be secured. 
Grapes stoning should have a regular temperature of about 65° at 
night, admitting air in good time, so that any moisture will be dissipated 
before the sun shines powerfully upon the house. Allow a moderate 
lateral extension, but avoid overcrowding and feed wbh liquid manure or 
water through a good mulching at fortnightly intervals according to the 
requirements of the Vines. 
Early Muscat Houses .—The fruit in these is now ripening. Maintain 
a dry condition of the atmosphere as compared with Black Hamburgh 
houses, but avoid great aridity, or the foliage will fall a prey to red 
spider. Muscats require time to ripen and assume that amber colour so 
much prized. Being gross feeders, do not allow any lack of moisture in 
the borders, but feed well either with tepid liquid manure or tepid water 
through a rich surface mulching. The supply of water to the roots will in 
some measure compensate for the drier condition of the atmosphere. 
Maintain a circulation of air constantly, preventing the moisture con¬ 
densing on the berries by sufficient warmth in the pipes to insure a 
changing atmosphere. Lateral extension is the best safeguard at this 
stage against shanking along with a steady temperature. Avoid sudden 
fluctuations and depressions. Keep the night temperature at 65° to 70 , 
80° to 85° by day with a little sun, and 90° to 95° with it in full force. 
Ventilate early, and with the sun’s increase be regulated, and so with its 
decline, reduce early, securing as long a day of ripening from sun heat ss 
possible. The old leaves of Muscats are very liable to be scorched under 
sudden changes of atmosphere, particularly so after a dull cold period. 
In very bright weather a single thickness of tanned net should be diawn 
over the roof lights, which, without impeding too much light, will have 
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