460 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 10, 1886. 
first week in May in a hilly district. A week later will be soon 
enough for the valley situations ; and in the northern counties 
towards the end of the same month will be as soon as can be 
considered safe. It often happens that frame room at this period 
of the year is not very plentiful, therefore the Chrysanthemums 
are hurried outside rather earlier than is advantageous to them. It 
is wise to place them in such a position that protection from frost 
can easily be afforded by using light tiffany or other suitable 
material. A position at the foot of a south wall considerably reduces 
the necessity for protection. Large numbers of plants have been 
crippled through neglect at this stage of their growth by the want 
of light protection. When the points of the shoots are frozen a 
serious check is given to the plants, from which it takes them a long 
time to recover. Strong east and south-westerly winds often 
seriously injure them, large numbers of leaves being broken by 
such gales as frequently occur at that time of the year, as the 
leaves at that stage are so succulent they snap off readily, there¬ 
fore every means should be taken to reduce the chances of this to 
a minimum. Stand the plants on ashes or boards to prevent the 
ingress of worms, allowing sufficient space between the plants that 
they do not become drawn up weakly. 
BEST POSITION FOB PLANTS. 
Before placing the plants in the pots in which they are to bloom 
the position they are to occupy during the summer should be 
selected and provision made for their reception, so that when 
potted they can at once be removed to their summer quarters. In 
this selection cultivators must be guided by the convenience at 
their disposal. A situation open to the full rays of the sun and 
protected from east and south-westerly wind should, if possible, be 
secured. Placing single row of plants on the side of a path 
running east and west in the kitchen garden, or one row on each 
side of a broad path running north and south, answers admirably, 
as where such positions can be afforded the plants can be easily 
attended to in watering and regulating their growth during the 
summer. If such a position as the one described is to be used it is 
better to stand the pots just within the border or quarter clear of 
the path, as the continual watering with liquid manure is apt to 
disfigure the gravel. Some growers plunge the pots, but except in the 
case of plants grown as specimens or bush plants for decorative 
purposes, where good foliage is especially desirable, I do not 
approve of the system, for the reason that in continuous wet 
weather, which often occurs towards the end of September, it is 
difficult to know when they require water. Excess of moisture at 
the roots is quite as bad as too little. Some people think Chrysan¬ 
themums cannot have too much water, but that is a mistake. I 
have seen plants denuded of a large portion of their lower leaves 
through supplying too much water to the roots. This is much 
more likely to occur in heavy retentive soils than in that of a sandy 
porous nature. If the pots on the sunny side could have a 
protection from the rays of the sun in continuous spells of dry 
weather by boards placed in front of the pots, I think this would 
be a considerable advantage both to the plants in keeping the roots 
cool and a saving of labour in the application of water as often as 
is required when the sun shines so powerfully. It is better to 
stand the pots on boards, slates, or tiles when in their summer 
quarters than upon a bed of ashes, as the roots penetrate through 
the bottom of the pot into the ashes for some distance in quest of 
moisture. When the plants are removed inside these roots are 
destroyed, which causes a considerable check to the plants. Worms, 
too, are not liable to penetrate into the pots, as they are when the 
pots are standing upon ashes. 
Provision must be made for securing the plants from winds. 
This is best done by erecting a trelliswork to which the plants can 
be fastened. There are various means of effecting this. In some 
districts cultivators have at command an unlimited number of 
stakes of various lengths and thickness. A framework composed of 
these can be put up which is strong, cheap, and as easily taken down 
and stored during the winter. The stakes will last two or three years. 
The upright stakes should be of sufficient stoutness to prevent the 
plants swaying about, and placed at such a distance as their strength 
and the length of the cross rails necessitate. For the tallest plants 
three cross rails are necessary, while for the moderately tall-growing 
varieties two are enough, and one for the shortest plants. Some 
growers stretch stout twine from post to post instead of the rails, 
but this soon becomes slack by exposure to the weather, and is not 
sufficiently firm to prevent the plants rocking to and fro. The 
strongest and neatest method is that of making a permanent 
structure of iron standards. The end standards should be If inch 
square, and be kept in position with iron supports 1 inch square. 
The intermediate posts may be flat iron lj-inch wide and three-eighths 
thick. To these connect stout galvanised wire as the annexed 
engraving represents, to which a coat of paint has been given to 
prevent damage to the tender shoots which sometimes occurs through 
contact with the acids used in galvanising the wire. Such con¬ 
trivances are sometimes objectionable as a permanency; if so, they 
can easily be taken down and stored away if the wires are fastened by 
bolts and nuts. When the plants are potted finally a stake of the 
height which the plants will grow should be placed to each ; some 
growers use one-quarter-inch iron rods made securely in the soil by 
means of three feet triangular in form. These have a neat appear¬ 
ance. but I think they are cold and not so good as those made of 
wood. 
When the plants are placed in position these stakes are tied to 
the cross rails, which make all secure. The branches produced at the 
first break are spread out, and two of them are tied to other small 
stakes which are fastened perpendicularly to the cross rails as 
shown on fig. 86 to the required height, and when the plants are 
housed the two side branches are tied loosely to the centre stake. 
By spreading the branches out in the manner indicated better 
development of wood and foliage is secured by additional light and 
Fig. 86.—Arranging Plants. 
air ; by placing the pots 1 foot 6 inches apart ample space is allowed 
between them. If the plants are arranged all together the rows 
should run east and west, and be at such a distance apart that the 
shade caused by one row of plants does not fall upon the row 
behind ; to effect this a distance of 5 feet between the rows should 
be allowed. If the space at command is of the size to require 
several rows running parallel to each other the tallest plants must 
be arranged at the back with the dwarfer in front. Arranged thus 
all varieties can be accommodated to the best advantage. A know¬ 
ledge of the relative height of each variety is necessary to effect 
this object, and for the guidance of the inexperienced I nppend a 
list of names with the height in feet. For the reader’s observance 
of the growth and the better manipulation of each variety which 
has something peculiar to itself, it is a good plan to arrange all 
plants of each sort together ; note of each can be more easily made 
than when the plants are scattered. To a close observer this is not 
the least interesting phase in the growth of Chrysanthemums. 
The height differs somewhat according to the treatment they re¬ 
ceive. The excessively tall growth made by some varieties goes a 
long way towards condemning the method practised for the pro¬ 
duction of large blooms by some growers. If equally good flowers 
could be produced under any other system of culture it would 
indeed be a boon in many ways, but my experience prompts me to 
say that it is not possible, Nature must have a share of its own way. 
The heights which I give are based upon my own experience and 
produced by the methods of culture I am describing. 
LTST OF VARIETIES WITH THEIR HEIGHTS. 
Three Feet High. —L’Adorable, Val d’Andorre, Fleur Parfaite, Dolores, 
Mr. Culiimrford, Miss Margaret. 
Foun Feet High.— Golden Eagle, Golden John Salter, Hero of Stoke 
