Jane 10, 1886. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
467 
and guano they must be kept from the foliage, and especially the centre 
of the plants. Two pounds per rod of any of these is a sufficient dress- 
ing, and should be given as a first dressing in May, and may be repeated 
if mulching is not practised during the first moist weather in July. 
Liquid manure may be applied advantageously through the summer. 
It should be poured between the rows, and if the ends of the rows are 
dammed up so as to be level with the ridges its passage into the soil will 
be insured with regularity. A good soaking should always be given and 
weak. It is difficult to state at what strength to apply the liquid from 
cesspools and tanks, but it is always better to apply it too weak than too 
strong. Ordinarily tanks that contain the drainings of stables, cow byres, 
and dung yards should be diluted with six times the bulk of water, or 
stronger material with twelve times the bulk of water, the liquid in all 
cases being well stirred and mixed. It is best given in a dull time that 
precedes rain after a period of bright weather or when, as the saying is, 
“• It hangs for rain.” A peck of soot and a peck of fresh cowdung put 
in separate bags in a tub, and 70 gallons of water added, poking the 
bags about two or three times a day for a week, will afford an excellent 
liquid manure. Feeding in liquid form will not be necessary in ordinary 
seasons after the middle of September. 
Removing Runners .—The runners as they appear must be removed, 
and it should he done with a knife and with care so as not to break or 
damage the foliage, nor* to loosen the plant’s hold of the soil by 
dragging. The removal of the runners should be continued throughout 
the season. By this procedure the plants will form large well developed 
in the least by keeping them in the dark frozen for weeks or months 
together. Protection may also be afforded by mats kept from the plants 
by stakes bent over them, and with the ends thrust in the ground so as to 
form hoops, and straw mats may be employed for a similar purpose. 
Lvergreen branches, especially Spruce, are a good protection against 
frost. These materials should be used only when frosts prevail. 
Before frost sets in clean the plantations, removing any decayed 
leaves, weeds, &c., and if the soil is very close point the surface over 
lightly and mulch shortly afterwards with an inch thickness of partially 
decayed litter, the rough being shaken out, or the remains of an old Mush¬ 
room bed. This will keep in the earth heat to some extent, and prevent 
the autumnal rains from washing the soil on to the flowers. Perhaps 
the best mulching of any for the winter season is straw somewhat coarsely 
chopped, and on heavy soils coarse ashes are serviceable, both being 
inimical to slugs through their sharp angles. It must be borne in mind 
that some Violets are tender, and liable to suffer in times of severe frost, 
especially when it prevails whilst the earth is bare. The Neapolitan in 
ali its forms is not hardy, and it only becomes tenderer by high culture, 
so that if the ground is not covered with snow protection must be given. 
Straw hurdles or straw itself must be placed over the plants and remain 
during the severe weather. In early spring the Violets will push their 
flowers with genial weather, and whilst it is mild all will he well; but if 
a period of sharp weather, being what is popularly termed a black frost, 
succeed a spell of mild weather, we must be prepared to protect, or a few 
hours’ frost, to say nothing of its being continued for days, may destroy 
Fig. 87.— Vanda cristata. 
crowns, and the flowers will he fine or poor according to the treatment or 
growth of the preceding summer. 
Autumn and Winter Treatment .—If varieties are grown that flower 
in autumn and through the winter in mild weather protection must be 
given. Frames are unquestionably the best, and of these span-roof are to 
be given preference. The frames should have low sides of wood not more 
than 10 inches to 12 inches in depth for the large growers, an I 6 inches 
to 8 inches is sufficiently deep for the smaller growing sorts. A foot rise 
for the roof-lights of 9 inches from the sides to the centre is ample. All 
the lights must be hinged at the top, and so ihat they can not only be 
raised at the bottom for ventilation but turned ovpr on to the other side of 
the frame, and the plants so exposed fully in mild weather and to allow 
of a thorough watering by rain or artificially if necessary, as well as to 
facilitate gathering the flowers. The frames sh uld not he put on until 
frost, and from the day they are put on until they are taken off air must 
be given by tilting or raising the lights on both sides whenever the 
external temperature exceeds 35°, and when the temperature outside is 
45° to 50° the lights should be turned over on opposites sides alternately. 
When the temperature is at those figures, and the atmosphere moist, or 
rain falls, the lights should be tilted or raised about 6 inches and on b >th 
sides. In severe weather give protection over the lights. Fiigi domo, 
mats, straw mats, &c., are suitable. The protection should be removed 
daily when the nights only are frosty, but if the plants getting frozen 
through the night the protection must not be removed until they are thawed. 
In very severe weather the protection should remain on constantly alter 
the plants are frozen until the general t’aw, and if snow fall it 
should not be removed from the covering. The plants will not suffer 
all the work of the previous season. To prevent such a calamity protec¬ 
tion must be at hand. Nothing is better, failing frames, than Spruce 
branches stuck in the ground between the rows on the side from which 
the storm comes, and leaning from that side over the plants. It will 
mitigate the severity of the frost at night and of the parboiling effect of 
the sun by day. Protection of this character should always he held in 
readiness where Violets are cultivated, and when necessary be promptly 
and effectively applied. 
The weather proving dry in spring, a good watering or waterings 
should be given between the rows, and always in the morning at this 
time of year, so as to allow the surface becoming fairly dry before night. 
Nothing short of high culture will grow high-class Violets, therefore 
supply liquid manure in spring if the plants show signs of exhaustion or 
enfeeblement in the blooms. 
Duration of the Plants .—In order to obtain the fullest crop of the 
finest flowers, Violets must be treated as annoals ; runners or suckers of 
the previous year’s growth being planted in spring (or for special purposes 
rooted runners of the current year’s growth may be planted in late 
summer and autumn, for which instructions will be given under the 
head of “ Growing for Market ”), and that time twelvemonth destroyed, 
or directly after flowering, and the securing of plants for new plantations. 
The plants will continue for many years, but they are never equal in 
freedom and size of flowers to the first season. If kept a second year, 
give a good dressing of manure after removing the large straggling 
foliage, and point it in. Keep free of weeds, mulch, water, and feed as 
in the first year, removing all runners, and the result will be a quantity 
of flowers, less in size, shorter in footstalk, yet of acceptable quality. 
