Jane 10, 1866. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
473 
good size. They are white, purple tops, good in form, and fine in 
quality. Turnips are an important crop, and the early ones are greatly 
relished. We find all good cooks the same in their daily demands for 
Turnips, and nothing short of an all-the-year-round supply will give 
satisfaction. Previous to the young ones being ready we were sending in 
Swedish roots of last year’s growth, and although tough they did very 
well for the stock pot. Advancing crops must be thinned in good time ; 
crowding while young ruins them. A large sowing of Veitch’s Red 
Globe should now he made. It is a useful sort, not very apt to be injured 
by hot weather, and it remains a long time fit for use. This sowing will 
be ready for use about the middle of August, and it will keep up a supply 
until October. 
Peas. —We gathered our first dish in the open on June 1st. There 
were two varieties ready then ; one was the dwarf American Wonder, the 
other a new variety not named, which has proved the earliest medium¬ 
growing Pea we have possessed. William I. is falling behind. It 
has kept its place well, and is still good. Stake all young crops requiring 
this attention. It is had practice to allow them to fall over for want of 
support. Where the weather is very dry water all freely with liquid 
manure. It is almost impossible to give them too much. Late crops 
should now be sown. They should have rich deep soil and a warm 
sunnv position. The trench system should also be practised with them, 
as this will be the means of their keeping strong and healthy during any 
warm dry weather that may be experienced. Sutton’s Latest of All, 
Laxton’s Omega, and Ne Plus Ultra are all good late sorts. The first and 
second grow compactly, and only attain a height of from 3 feet to 4 feet, 
but the latter runs up to G feet, 7 feet, sometimes 8 feet, and should 
only be grown where there are tall stakes procurable. 
Artichokes. —The Globes are very late this season. They are only 
now beginning to form, and to force them on the plants should have 
large quantities of liquid manure. Mulching in dry weather is also of 
much benefit to them. Jerusalem Artichokes are growing freely, but 
being planted on the same ground as they occupied last year many have 
come up which have no right there, and the whole of these have been 
drawn, allowing those only to remain which were planted in rows 3 feet 
one way and 18 inches the other. A multitude of growths make a fine- 
looking plantation, hut large tubers are only produced by growing the 
plants quite clear of each other. 
Coleworts. —Where seed of these was sown some time ago the 
plants will now be ready for putting out, and they should be planted 
about 15 inches apart each way on ground which has been cleared of early 
Potatoes or other crops. 
Broad Beans. —These are not ready yet, hut they promise well. 
Where they are wanted as sion as possible pinch the point out of each 
stem, and this will cause the pods to swell rapidly. Another good sowing 
of seed should be made for autumn. Carter's Leviathan is one of the 
finest Beans for late use we have grown. 
Kidney Beans. —Stake runners as soon as they get out of the seed 
leaf. They are much better when twisted round a stake than entangling 
each other, and this occurs when staking is neglected. Sow a row for 
late use. Dwarf Beans of the Canadian type are rather yellow in colour, 
the nights being still rather cold for them, but if a sprinkling of soot is 
placed along each side of the row and a little soil afterwards drawn up to 
the stems, they will soon attain a deep green hue and grow freely. A 
little guano water now and again is very beneficial, especially to early 
rows in dry weather. 
Hoeing. —There can hardly be too much of this done amongst the 
young croos. It is most serviceable when the soil is dry on the surface, 
as the weeds are uprooted and soon perish. Weeds are now growing fast 
in all corners. It is surprising how effectually hoeing checks them. It 
is the quickest way of alt of doing this, and considering how cheap and 
easy this may be done, weedy vegetable gardens should never be seen. 
Hoeing down weeds before they have time to seed is profitable labour. 
Seakale and Rhubarb.— Both of these are now throwing up 
many bloom spikes, and as these serve no good purpose, unless seed is 
wanted, every one of them should be cut off before they are in bloom, or at 
most before they seed. Where really tender young Rhubarb is wanted in 
July or August, the greater part of the stems may be drawn up, when 
many young ones will take their olaoe. Where tender Rhubarb is 
wanted for exhibition, it may always be secured in this way. 
Cauliflowers Going Blind, -^'om? vaiieties are worse than others 
for this. On a piece where we have five sods planted one has almost 
all gone in this way, while o f others we have not lo-t half a dozen. As a 
rule, however, it may he prevented by dusting a little lime into 'he centre 
of each plant. Where it is noticed that any have lost their centre or gone 
blind, there is no use in allowing them to remain, as they will never form 
good hearts, and the best way is to throw the plants away and replace 
them with others. 
CAPSICUMS.— These are sometimes planted out, but they do not always 
succeed in this way, and the beit way i to grow them in a frame and 
where they can he protected with gla-s when necessary. There are now 
empty frames in most gardens, and one may be fi led wi'h the^e. If the 
frames contain the remains of old ho'beds, the plan's may be turn d out 
of the pots and placed in the old so l, but where the frames a r eempty they 
may be grown in 7-inch and 8dnc,h p its. Frequent syringing and plenty 
of water at the root subs them well when in full growth. 
MUSHROOMS. —These have been a great success with us this spring. 
We grow them in cool sheds and find them do admirably there. We made 
the best bed up about the middle of January ; it began bearing by the 
third week in February, and did not cease doiDg so until the middle of 
May. A three-months supply from one bed is very satisfactory, and the 
> umbers we cut were extraordinary. The cool system quite surpasses the 
warm one for them ; indeed, we have ceased to use our heated Mushroom 
house and adhere wholly to the natural temperature of the shed. Beds 
now hearing or beginning to fiuit should be kept rather moist, and the 
surface should always be incased in a coating of hay. This prevents the 
soil from diying readily, and it also protects the young Mushrooms. 
As warm weather sets in worms are very apt to work their way up through 
the stems and into the heads. These are then useless, and many Mush¬ 
rooms may soon be ruined in this way. A good preventive, however, is 
dissolve about one tablespoonful of salt in two gallons of water, and water 
the bed completely with this. It should not be given cold, but heated 
to 80= 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. — Fruit Ripening. —When the fruits commence colouring 
syringing must cease, but the supply of moisture or water at the roots 
must be maintained, affording it whenever necessary. With a view to 
improve the qualily of the fruit ventilate whenever circumstances permit, 
but do not allow the temperature to fall below 80° in the day, applying 
fire heat to maintain a night temperature of 70° to 75°, gradually re¬ 
ducing the moisture in the hou c e. Queen and Providence Pines started 
into fruit early in February will ripen this month, coming in about three 
weeks cr a month before Smooth-leaved Cayenne, Charlotte Rothschild, 
and similar varieties started at the same time and under similar con¬ 
ditions. They afford a good successional supply, which may be still 
further extended by removing some of the plants with the fruits to a 
cooler house. Although the Providence Pine is not nearly equal to a 
Queen in quality, yet its size being superior, a limited number should be 
grown, as large fruits are very useful at parties if only for effect in table 
decorations. The heat at the roots must be keDt at 85° to 90°. 
Plants fur Winter Fruiting.-—The strongest of the plants put in the 
fruiting pots last September wilt now be showing fruit ; if not, means must 
not further be deliyed to effect it for a supply of this once highly prized 
and now much-neglected fruit for winter use. The plants should be 
brought together and subjected to a comparative state of rest for the next 
month or six weeks, lowering the heat at the roots to 75°, maintaining a 
free circulation of air about the plants in favourable weather, ventilating 
at 75°, and allowing the heat to fall to that degree before closing the 
bouse, only employing artificial heat to prevent the temperature falling 
below 60° at night, not withholding water altogether, hut wherever a 
plant becomes dry afford it liberally. The smaller suckers of last 
autumn that were wintered in 7 or 8-inch pots, and shifted this spring, 
must be kept growing until the pots are well filled with roots, at which 
time, if considered necessary, they may be subjected to the same treat¬ 
ment as advised for the larger ones, and these plantB will then give a 
successional supply of fruit. 
Ventilating, Watering, Shading, fyc. —Young stock will be making rapid 
progress, and should be regularly attended to in every particular, allow¬ 
ing such p'ants sufficient space for development, as nothing is so injurious 
to a sturdy growth as crowding in the early stages. Ventilate early in 
the day at 75° to 80° to render the foliage dry before it is affected by the 
sun. Examine the plants twice a week for watering, not giving any until 
it is needed, and then a thorough soaking with tepid liquid manure, 
being carelul not to give it too strong. Di-continue shading succession 
plants, but fruiting plants with the crowns in close proximity to the glass 
will require a slight shade from powerful sun. Syringe the plants on 
bright afternoons, and otherwise maintain a genial condition of the atmo¬ 
sphere by sprinkling the home ; but avoid much moisture in dull weather, 
as it only tends to cause soft growth. So long as water remains in the 
axils of the leaves syringing is not so much required, and in watering 
pour the water well up the plants, as the axils of the leaves at the base 
have roots that contribute to the vigour of the plants and swelling of the 
fruits. 
Spring-potted Suckers. —The strongest of those potted last March 
should be in their largest pots ; if not, there must not be any further 
delay, as to allow them to become much root-bound is debilitating and 
detrimental to their after well-doing. Recently potted plants should 
have a regular bottom heat of 85° to 95°, and be thoroughly watered after 
potting, not giving any more until the soil becomes dry. A too-wet soil 
is not favourable to the formation of roots. 
Potting Suckers. —The early-fruited plants as they finish will afford 
suckers, which should be taken in sufficient quantity to meet the demand 
and started at once, which will afford plants for fruiting about this time 
next year, forming a supplementary batch to those started in spring. 
Tne treatment then given will answer for these, oDly they will require 
more careful shading and frequent attention to damping. 
Melons. — Fruit Ripening.— Plants with the fruit ripening should 
have a plentiful supply ot air, and water should be withheld from the fruit. 
If the plants are snong and there is a disposition to crack, in addition to 
withholding water from the roots cut the bine carrying the fruit half and 
not more than three parts tnrough a few inches below the fruit. A dry 
atmosph re is essential, and a temperature of 7(F to 75° artifi dally, falling 
about 5° at night. If the sun be very powerful place a slight shade of 
some kind directly over the fruit, as Melons ripening become heated, and 
do not ripen nearly so regularly nor become so high in flavour as those 
that come on more gradually. Water need only be given to prevent 
flagging, and a slight shade from bright eun after a dull period is 
much the better way to prevent Sagging than heavy wateiing and a close 
vitiated atmosphere. 
Fruit knelling .—Add mice soil to the hillock cc ridges. Let it be 
